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11-17-2012, 09:36 PM | #26 | |
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MAIC
Location: New Castle ,PA
Vehicle:2012 WRX Limited SWP |
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11-17-2012, 09:48 PM | #27 |
NASIOC Supporter
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Menzel Lake, WA
Vehicle:06 Red Ltd.Wagon Dom 1.5xtr JJ tuned |
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11-18-2012, 12:37 AM | #28 | ||
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if there are a lot of oil vapors(and thus oil) being consumed. then they can cause knock that causes broken ringlands the issue is BAD TUNING more than anything else, really there are other issues that can contribute, but that is beyond this discussion and i have run 20-21psi since 2006 in my 2006 wrx and it isnt any issue KNOCK is the issue....psi is irrelevant, really |
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11-18-2012, 09:45 AM | #29 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 268931
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: PA
Vehicle:2012 wrx ice silver |
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While having my car tuned I mentioned the ringland issue and was told the chances are slim of it happening with a good tune and proper maintenance. Assuming the car is not abused daily. |
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11-18-2012, 10:44 AM | #30 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 245242
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:2005 STI E85 Power |
Yea your ringlands are broke. Just hope that the wall of that cylinder isnt messed up.
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11-18-2012, 11:35 AM | #31 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 171290
Join Date: Feb 2008
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: San Diego, CA
Vehicle:2008 STi Aspen White |
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Soooooooooooo I guess now I might as well build a solid motor.. I have my eye on a short block built by Graveyard Motorsports (yeah I just heard of them too) and they have a solid short block deal Stage 2 Custom Built Short Block EJ257
They give you a bunch of options on the build like nitrated crankshaft, other stuff.. Looks like a good package all for $2800. Can you guys recommend anything else local to San Diego? |
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11-21-2012, 02:46 AM | #32 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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Last edited by HinshawWRX; 11-21-2012 at 06:45 AM. |
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11-21-2012, 08:35 AM | #33 |
Scooby Specialist
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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MWSOC
Location: Windy City
Vehicle:I am Rub Function>Form |
I've never heard of graveyard motorsports. Personally if I cant find good reviews and usually some peoeple with personal experience that I can physically talk to I wont go to a shop or vendor. Many times the "price is right," type of thinking will end up costing you twice as much as getting it done correctly the first time. Your best bet will be to go on your local chapters sub forum and talk to some members there that have personal experience with the shops in the area.
Otherwise that sucks your ringland is toast. Sometimes i still feel like these engines are hit or miss when it comes to making some poor. I've seen blocks go out at stage 2 levels, but I've been running mine at 320/360 (mustang dyno) on e85 for over a year @ 24psi without an issue. I religiously change my fluids, monitor (log) the car for knock ect, and if somethings wrong I stop beating on it. Otherwise I drive the piss out of the car. I can't imagine buying and modding a car and then never even getting into boost. |
11-21-2012, 12:21 PM | #34 |
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RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:2014 Audi S4 DP Stage 2 (~420whp) |
^^ I agree with every single thing you said. The only thing I absolutely won't do is launch the car as I'm afraid of breaking the transmission.
OP, do it right the first time and have the motor built by a reputable shop, even if it costs considerably more. In the end, it will actually be cheaper. |
11-21-2012, 12:34 PM | #35 |
Medium Frank
Moderator Member#: 140114
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Common Sense, VA
Vehicle:2020 Subaru Outback |
Nitraited crank shouldn't really be an "option" or "add on." If they get stock "STI" blocks from Subaru it comes with this already. And for that price when I built mine, Import Image Racing (Vendor on here) gave a better deal with better "options" and much more rep.
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11-21-2012, 12:57 PM | #36 |
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RMIC
Location: Colorado!
Vehicle:2007 Impreza 2.5i Greyish- Boosted |
^you would want to go to p&l. They are very popular in Subaru world. May be a little on high end but they would do a great job.
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11-21-2012, 02:08 PM | #37 |
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Member#: 171290
Join Date: Feb 2008
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SCIC
Location: San Diego, CA
Vehicle:2008 STi Aspen White |
So far I'm looking at these builders - Outfront Motorsports, Graveyard and ASF Machine. Outfront seems to be.. out front so far lol. Partly because they are the closest to San Diego and I like the quote he gave me. Using ASF or other builders would require me to A. buy new case halves or B. ship them my block to use, which in the end is probably going to be close to the same price, which is slightly higher than Outfront anyway.
I need questions for these guys since I don't really know what I'm talking about lol. Here are some things I have read about, and not quite sure what they mean.. Maybe you guys can help. Blueprinting. I have often heard the term "balanced" accompanying this term. I get the difference between static and dynamic balancing, and I don't think a dynamic balance will be necessary for my particular situation, but do all motors come "blueprinted"? Oil passages. I guess this means they hone out some of the oil passages to improve oil flow? Is this also something that needs to be done? Timing belt kit. How important is it to get an aftermarket kit? Will the OEM not cut it? Torque plates. Uhh.. what? Aftermarket oil pickup. I have read cases where the OEM apparently doesn't work as well? Rev limit. I see a lot of engine packages with claims of like 8000RPMS and stuff.. Is that necessary or something that will tickle my fancy? Doesn't really seem like I need another 1000RPMS.. Compression ratio. With my current setup, with the possibility of a few more aftermarket parts, possibly a bigger turbo in the future with slightly more boost, what compression ratio will be best? Hopefully you guys don't tell me to "search the forums". I mean obviously I have heard of these terms, I just need more info on what works best in conjunction with my situation. |
11-21-2012, 05:22 PM | #38 | |
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Take the list to the people you are interviewing to build your motor... they're the ones to ask. Or, pick someone with a good enough reputation you trust them already. Then let them do their job. |
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11-21-2012, 09:24 PM | #39 | |
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Vehicle:2008 STi Aspen White |
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I'm just hoping to get a little more information so I can make an educated decision on which builder to go with. Last edited by pippen; 11-21-2012 at 09:33 PM. |
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11-21-2012, 11:56 PM | #40 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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All really depends what you want to do... do you want to do a bottom end build, or full build
If you wanna do a bottom-end build that can net you around 400-450whp safely on e-85 than I would do Block Bore or Hone(depending on the damage of the block) Acid dipped CP/JE/Arias pistons Subaru OEM Crank(you can probably re-user yours) ACL Main+Rod bearings Eagle Rods Heads Valve job for Heads Acid Dipped heads ARP Head Studs New OEM Water pump New OEM Oil Pump Timing belt kit Full build(easy 500+ hp) Block Bore or Hone(depending on the damage of the block) Acid dipped CP/JE/Arias pistons Subaru OEM Crank(you can probably re-use yours) ACL Main+Rod bearings Brian Crower I Beams w/ ARP 625+ fasteners Heads Aftermarket Springs & Retainers Aftermarket Valves 272 or 280 cams... GSC or Brian crower Port & Polished heads Valve job ARP Head Studs New OEM Water pump New OEM Oil Pump Timing belt kit Killer-b Oil Pick-up You'll see a significant price difference though if you decide to do a full build.. but will definitely be worth it in the long run. |
11-22-2012, 12:06 AM | #41 | |
Scooby Newbie
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Location: San Diego, CA
Vehicle:2008 STi Aspen White |
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The first block you suggested is pretty much what I'm after, except the setup I'm looking at has Manley h-beam rods, and no acid dip.. what's the advantage in that? Thanks for the suggestions! |
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11-22-2012, 12:15 AM | #42 | |
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A full build wont necessarily die quickly all depends on the tuner, how you drive it and maintain it. If you drive it like a bat out of hell all the time yea ot wont last I am bottom built only right now myself but doin a full build but for now I have Manley pistons Eagle rods Oem crank Acl main+rod bearings So far 12k miles on it and its been built a year. If your happy with 400-450whp that is perfect build for you.. but if you ever want more prepare to rip it apart again to build heads and replace H beam rods considering H beams are only good for about 500whp safely. My opinion id spend the extra 200$ and get Brian crower I beams. Well worth it Last edited by wrxbby; 11-22-2012 at 12:34 AM. |
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11-22-2012, 02:41 PM | #43 |
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Vehicle:2008 STi Aspen White |
Ok.. couple more questions lol
1. Smog. Does building a motor like this have any negative affect on smog? Can I just throw on the stock exhaust with the cats and be good? 2. Heads. Do I need to get them decked? |
11-22-2012, 04:14 PM | #44 | |
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MWSOC
Location: Iowa
Vehicle:2002 MY03 EJ207 E85 Dom 1.5XTR Twinscroll! |
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Someone once told me a subaru motor is like a virgin. Never the same once you open her up lol. |
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11-23-2012, 09:30 AM | #45 | |
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It is strongly suggest you get the block and heads decked Also if you're running cats, whether it's built or not should not have any negative effects when it comes to smog |
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11-27-2012, 11:52 AM | #46 |
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Vehicle:2008 STi Aspen White |
So in talks with Joe from asf machine and Jeremy from outfront motorsports.. Outfront is close enough to me where I wouldn't have to ship the motor, and I really just like the way Joe is explaining things to me. Getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these, any more input from you guys?
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