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Old 11-16-2012, 12:35 PM   #26
wildrcj
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Originally Posted by Gallo2011 View Post
OP, just a humble suggestion. If you're going to go turboback, get your car protuned. Find a competent tuner in your area and have that person tune your engine. You'll be much happier with the results and so will your engine. OTS stage 2 is nice, but the tune is not for your car specifically. A protune will be.
Im thinking of saving up, getting a larger fuel pump, injectors and a better intercooler, and then getting a protune. i figure it will have a more drastic effect when paired with those mods. Reasonable?

think I'm missing anything for a ~300whp DD?

maybe a 3 port ebcs.

that is all down the line though. my next mods are suspension, just want the back to slide around before the nose dives out.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:44 PM   #27
Gallo2011
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You shouldn't need injectors, a fuel pump and larger intercooler for 300whp. You're getting close, but not yet. The ebcs is a good idea now, as it will assure boost is stable.

You'll be very happy at 300whp. Suspension is next. Turn-In Concepts should be your next phone call.
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:23 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by iAmjudge View Post
I wonder if all the people who say "install it yourself" does any of their home/appliance/electronics repair and maintenance themselves...
Just redid my bathroom a couple weeks ago(tub, drywall, toilet, plumbing). I've also installed a garbage disposal, fridge water/ice, dish washer, electrical lighting, outdoor fencing, built a shed, build my computers and do repairs on computer components, go to the gym, clean up my house, do my own laundry, do my own yard work, and a few other things I can't think of right now. Just gave my snow blower a tuneup too to get ready for winter.

It's just when you think about how much "professionals"(mechanics, doctors, lawyers, electricians, contractors, plumbers, hookers, etc) charge for their services it's silly to hire them for something you could do yourself with alittle investment in your personal education. Some things aren't worth the trouble and the mess, like doing your own oil change for $20 when you can get it done for $35 and not get all dirty and messy and have to dispose of the old oil etc.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:53 PM   #29
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see later post

Last edited by wildrcj; 11-30-2012 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:29 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by jhmr
I don't appreciate being told to work on my own car much like most of the people saying this don't appreciate being told "use proper grammar" or "allow me to share with you about something I'm highly skilled at and explain to you why you're a piece of crap for not being highly skilled at it either"

/90% of NASIOC threads
Then why bother modding a car at all? Why not buy something more expensive that will fit your needs?

If you don't care about working on or learning about your car, why do you even waste your time?

Bought not built hahaha.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:43 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildrcj View Post
test

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/66632803@N08/8228356962/" title="Untitled by wildrcj, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8228356962_e3cd628773_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Untitled"></a>

Lets see if I can fix that for you...

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Old 11-28-2012, 09:48 PM   #32
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On the do-it-yourself topic of this thread... This car will need a protune with an upgraded DP so unless the OP is able to do the mods himself outside the tuner's garage or the OP will tune the car himself after addition of the upgrades, it may not be a good idea to do the mods in the garage.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:36 PM   #33
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Lets see if I can fix that for you...
Teach me.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:40 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by wildrcj View Post
test

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/66632803@N08/8228356962/" title="Untitled by wildrcj, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8...cd628773_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Untitled"></a>

The bold part in the image brackets.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:59 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by rob1n1 View Post
That's not really good advice, if anything he should be fine with DOT 4.



Doesn't sound like the smartest option for streets to me.

ATE Super Blue or another DOT 4 is good enough.
FWIW, all DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 absorb moisture and damage paint instantly. That's why when you open a bottle of fluid you either use it all immediately or dispose of it, because it starts to absorb the moisture in the air reducing it's performance.

DOT 5 (not 5.1) is silicone based and does not absorb moisture. The downside to that is if any water does get into your lines it forms pockets of water which will corode your brake lines.

DOT 5 cannot be used with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 fluids and can also not be used with ABS systems.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:56 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by iAmjudge View Post
I wonder if all the people who say "install it yourself" does any of their home/appliance/electronics repair and maintenance themselves...
I've fixed my furnace, dishwasher, installed 2 toilets, pulled the piping under the kitchen sink, and some other random jobs. The only thing I didn't do was install my new gas dryer because the copper gas line had to be modified for the new dryer and I have kids to worry about.
I also do basic work on my cars (brakes, suspension, and other bolt-on types of repairs like axles, hubs, an that sort of thing). The only things I have not touched are the transmission and engine internals. I have no formal training and I know my limits lol.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:05 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philswrbrex
On the do-it-yourself topic of this thread... This car will need a protune with an upgraded DP so unless the OP is able to do the mods himself outside the tuner's garage or the OP will tune the car himself after addition of the upgrades, it may not be a good idea to do the mods in the garage.
Nothing in that list says "protune required". His ap will suffice just fine.

And even still....reputable tuners will give you a "limp" map to drive it to the tuning location after install.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:48 PM   #38
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Ok. So i got all the work done. I had Rev Works install the DP, Cat back, SS brake lines, and shifter with bushings. I installed the intake and brake master cylinder brace myself. also, the license plate delete was me (i hear it gives +50 HP )

Rev Works did a great and quick install. Matt gave me great advice on the car, recommending the invidia exhaust.

Mod list:
Invidia Catless DP
Invidia q300 quad- titanium-tip Cat-back
Kartboy Short Shifter and Shifter Bushings
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Perrin Brake Master Cylinder Brace
AEM Intake
Cobb AP OTS Stage 2+AEM map
Subtle Solutions WRX Front License Plate Delete

Pics



















The Exhaust:
Im thrilled with it. It is just the right volume, but lets you hear just enough of that classic boxer rumble. At idle its as quiet as stock, and as you add throttle it increases until its screaming at WOT. On the highway, cruising at 70-80, the rumble is still there, but not intrusive. I listen to the radio at the same volume I did before.
My only issue with the exhaust is the fitment, which I have spoken to Matt at Rev Works about, and will be fixed. The issue is that the left side protrudes more, and hangs lower than the right. Otherwise, love the quad tipped look.

Shifter:
Nothing new here. Its a Kartboy SS. Its awesome. Everyone knows that. Coupled with the stiffer bushings, its made the shifts click directly into place, no more fishing for gears.

Master Cylinder Brace/SS Brake Lines/DOT 4 fluid:
Even though I put the MCB on later, the combined effect of these mods is that my brake pedal is firm. Sadly, it does nothing to take up the initial 1" of dead space in the pedal, but you get a feel for that very quickly. I love the way the brakes feel now. They should come like this from the factory.
Install on the MCB was a B****. But well worth it.

AEM Intake:
Awesome piece. Easy install. Now you hear the turbo spool, and bit of the BPV.
I know the power increase is negligible, even though my butt-dyno says its there.

License Delete:
Purely aesthetic of course, but makes use of the license plate holder in states like FL, where we don't have front plates.

COBB AP:
Nothing I can say that hasn't been said before. Its awesome, easy to use, and the OTS maps are sufficient for my uses right now. The car pulls strong, and smooth.
I also like, that as I do add mods, and get pro-tuned, I can have multiple maps, like economy mode, or even a race gas map.

Overall review:
Unsurprisingly, it feels like a whole new car. It is exactly what I wanted, and i couldn't be happier.

Some things to note before you mod your car this way.
1) if you go catless you will smell fumes, if you open your window, or if your AC is pulling from the outside. Doesn't bother me, but will bother some people im sure. If your windows are up, and you're AC is recirculating, you will not smell anything.
2) At WOT shifts, I do occasionally get after flares (flames from exhaust). From what I've read, this isn't a massive issue, as its just a side effect of a slightly rich tune. When i get pro-tuned i assume this will be almost completely extinguished. Also, I am concerned with melting my bumper because of the exhaust fitment issue noted above. Hopefully after fitment is fixed this will no longer be a concern.

Next mods:
24mm Sways front and rear w/ end links
Whiteline steering Rack Bushings
Group N tranny mount
Whiteline positive shift kit
Pitch Stop mount
Rear Diff mount
Grimmspeed Air Oil Separator

Then:
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
Bigger Injectors (750cc?)
TMIC (Process West I think)
Forge BPV
One Step Colder Spark Plugs
External Wastegate and Uppipe
Pro-tune

Let me know if anyone has any suggestions about my mod order. I've spent ages lurking this forum, and i think im doing it right.

By the time all thats done, I think it will be a really solid DD - not that it isn't already. And then.... who knows? do i go balls to the wall with turbo upgrades and internals? Make it a dedicated track car? or just keep it as is and drive it forever?

ahh. the possibilities.

Last edited by wildrcj; 11-30-2012 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:55 PM   #39
drewvdw
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As far as further mods go, I've gotten sick of typing out recommendations for each person. Just read this:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2296145
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:09 PM   #40
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not a expert on this stuff nor am i an expert on how the newer wrx's compare to older ones like mine but what about a walbro 255 fuel pump? there cheap and i know it is a highly used mod that is recommended a lot especially for stage2 cars. just a suggestion.

overall sick start ! your definitely doing it right and beautiful car
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:27 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by wildrcj View Post
Today I went over to Rev Works in Winter Springs, FL. Talked for a long time with Matt there and decided on these parts. He took a lot of time to talk about my goals and gave me great pricing!

Part List:
Invidia q300 Turbo Back Exhaust
Cobb AP Stage 2+
AEM Intake
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Perrin Master Cylinder Brace
Kartboy SS and Shifter Bushings

Install is on Wednesday. Will post pics.
If you don't mind me asking, what type of price did get from him? (Eventually when I mod, I'd like to have a general idea what other shops are offering so I know I'm not getting screwed)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tunertype View Post
You must have a good job. if ur time is worth more than what a shop charges($75/hr). The point at which its not worth it to do your own car work is when your at about 150k/yr. if you make less than 150k/yr its actually worth it to take the day off from work to do the install.
I can't speak for the OP, but I would rather have a reputable shop do the install for me. I would rather pay a little more and have the install done right, rather than do in myself and not know if what I've done is up to par.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:57 PM   #42
Ian G.
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If you are getting the group n trans mount, you might as well get the white line positive shift kit (trans cross member bushings) you have to work in that area anyway for the trans mount bushing. Goes great with kartboy bushings for the shifter feel. Also with the cat less dp, you should consider downloading the Torqued Performance ots map (85 bucks)
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:01 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by bugeye105 View Post
not a expert on this stuff nor am i an expert on how the newer wrx's compare to older ones like mine but what about a walbro 255 fuel pump? there cheap and i know it is a highly used mod that is recommended a lot especially for stage2 cars. just a suggestion.

overall sick start ! your definitely doing it right and beautiful car
the fuel pump isn't required for stage 2 cars, ( ON THE 2.0L MOTOR) most people don't upgrade fuel pumps until they are swapping turbos (Vf's, etc).

On the 2.5l, the sti and wrx fuel pumps are identical and can support a decent amount of power (far more than OP is making).
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:22 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by DoomsdayFAN View Post

If you don't mind me asking, what type of price did get from him? (Eventually when I mod, I'd like to have a general idea what other shops are offering so I know I'm not getting screwed)

I can't speak for the OP, but I would rather have a reputable shop do the install
PM'd ya
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:23 PM   #45
wildrcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugeye105 View Post
not a expert on this stuff nor am i an expert on how the newer wrx's compare to older ones like mine but what about a walbro 255 fuel pump? there cheap and i know it is a highly used mod that is recommended a lot especially for stage2 cars. just a suggestion.

overall sick start ! your definitely doing it right and beautiful car
Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:24 PM   #46
drewvdw
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^^^The biggest problem is the injectors. They run out of steam around stage 2 power levels.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:24 PM   #47
wildrcj
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Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
If you are getting the group n trans mount, you might as well get the white line positive shift kit (trans cross member bushings) you have to work in that area anyway for the trans mount bushing. Goes great with kartboy bushings for the shifter feel. Also with the cat less dp, you should consider downloading the Torqued Performance ots map (85 bucks)
Good tips. I'll look into the positive shift kit.
And I've been looking at the TP maps. I hear if you send him logs after you buy his map he'll tweak it for your car?
Probably would be worth It. And definitely beats paying 300 for a protune.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:35 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunertype View Post
You must have a good job. if ur time is worth more than what a shop charges($75/hr). The point at which its not worth it to do your own car work is when your at about 150k/yr. if you make less than 150k/yr its actually worth it to take the day off from work to do the install.
You are, of course, assuming that somebody can install something as efficiently as someone who installs things for a living. While it might take me two hours to install a TBE, it could take a technician half an hours. Made up numbers but you get the point.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:41 PM   #49
wildrcj
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Originally Posted by drewvdw View Post
As far as further mods go, I've gotten sick of typing out recommendations for each person. Just read this:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2296145
Thanks for this. Awesome stuff. Adding an EWG to my list. As it appears to be necessary when catless and going beyond stage 2.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:51 PM   #50
Ian G.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildrcj View Post

Good tips. I'll look into the positive shift kit.
And I've been looking at the TP maps. I hear if you send him logs after you buy his map he'll tweak it for your car?
Probably would be worth It. And definitely beats paying 300 for a protune.
Yeah Eric will make adjustments if needed, my 08 stage 2 runs way smoother and knocks less on his map ( never tweaked ) , i also noticed right away how there is less initial bog. also has a stage 3 map for aftermarket top mount /ebcs/ etc. my buddy has the 3.52 map and his 2011 rips really good . It's a slightly more aggressive tune then cobb so you can do catless dp no problem , cobbs map specifies needing a catted dp
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