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02-22-2014, 11:07 AM | #276 |
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In that case, maybe you do have an intake leak and the elevated dirt is causing the wear like BS said. Hopefully, it's not something major.
-Dennis
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02-23-2014, 12:28 AM | #277 | |
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Quote:
short trips like that are the worst thing you can do to an engine... |
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02-27-2014, 07:43 PM | #278 |
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I know, but what other choice do I have. That might be the only con to leaving that close to your work. I mean, the temp gauge never gets past the second hash mark!! I used to live 25 miles from work which was a 45+ minute commute each way. I will gladly perform more frequent oil changes/services than going back to my old commute.
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02-28-2014, 01:08 AM | #279 | |
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even a ****ing moped would be better |
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02-28-2014, 07:54 PM | #280 |
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02-28-2014, 08:01 PM | #281 |
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03-07-2014, 12:11 AM | #282 |
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Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:2016 WRX |
Didn't change the oil, but I sampled it to see how the TBN is doing. I plan on running it out to 7,500 mi. Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 w/OEM Subaru blue filter.
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03-07-2014, 08:24 AM | #283 | |
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Quote:
In summer I would be tempted to top this up with ESP 5W-40. -Dennis |
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03-07-2014, 10:36 AM | #284 |
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Thanks, I'm really happy with how it turned out. I mostly drive with a light foot, and the car is stock so I'm sure that helps with viscosity. I'll have to try topping off with the 5w40
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03-11-2014, 02:47 PM | #285 | |
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
Quote:
Looks like a great report. Excellent KV100 and TBN retention. If the TBN does in fact stabilize in the 1.5-2.5 range for a long time, M1 ESP may be a long-drain oil after all. Medium drain at the very least. You're following basically the same regimen I'm planning for my M1 ESP fill, though you accumulate miles much faster than I do. I've got a new video inspection camera that I've already stuck down the oil fill neck (very clean) and I'm planning to put down the intake at the 60k service. Should be interesting to see if there's much residue from the GC/RT6 and Redline the car has seen to this point. I don't think the initial viscosity has much to do with it, I actually think the shear stability is a conscious design decision on Mobil's part. I haven't been able to discern why they choose high shear stability in some formulations and low stability in others, but the consistency in results for different formulations seems to indicate they are choosing on purpose. For instance M1 AFE 0w30 is very shear stable in my dad's Outback 3.6R, while M1 AFE 0w20 isn't very shear stable at all in my Honda Civic R18. Every AFE 0w20 UOA I've seen shows pretty poor shear stability while all the AFE 0w30 UOAs show good stability. |
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03-11-2014, 05:38 PM | #286 | |
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I had the TAN done as well, and it came back at 2.2. IIRC, I've read on a forum somewhere this oil is used in VWs for 10k+ intervals. Not sure on this though or if it's diesel vs. gas....If this is marketed in the EU as "Fully Synthetic" this would have to be a Group IV/V PAO/Ester based oil, no? Post some screenshots/video of it when you do. It'd be interesting to see for sure. Last edited by wrx12tt; 03-11-2014 at 05:45 PM. |
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03-12-2014, 02:59 AM | #287 | |
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Quote:
It's only Germany where synthetic = PAO + Ester, not all of Europe. Don't put much stock in that, it's an antiquated German government labeling requirement. GTL Group III base stocks are among the very best available, and given the NOACK of M1 ESP, I suspect strongly it's M1's first GTL product. It'll be a few days until I have the time to write up my trip thoughts. Gotta dig out from under the pile on my desk first. |
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04-01-2014, 01:07 PM | #288 |
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VIC
Location: Coquitlam, BC, Canada
Vehicle:1979 BRAT / 01 RSTI 99 2.5TS (DEAD) |
AHHHHH! LEAD!
thoughts? |
04-01-2014, 01:30 PM | #289 |
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Hmm. Not generally good, but not necessarily anything to freak out about. I had a lead spike of 12 ppm in my car at 20k mi which never recurred. (link)
The Silicon number is problematic and could be related, could be dirt (sand) getting in. What's the condition of your air filter? Checked for leaks in your intake tract? Do any recent repairs with RTV? If so the silicon is likely from the RTV. Check your intake for leaks, maybe replace the filter. Most aftermarket "performance" filters are mediocre at best, the AEM Dryflow is one exception. Use an OEM filter or high quality aftermarket like Napa/Wix platinum or Amsoil (Donaldson). Then maybe re-sample your oil early next time without changing it. Give it 3k Km at least though so the data is decent. Why 10w30 in Canada though? A bit marginal for winter use, no? Vancouver is on the coast so it's probably not as cold as I'm imagining, but 10w30 is only good down to -25*C. How cold was it on this OCI? It's possible the lead was from oil starvation during a cold start. Other than the lead and silicon it looks like a good UOA, oil is solid 30wt has good flashpoint, good TBN and a good additive package. |
04-01-2014, 01:38 PM | #290 |
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What's the story with the air filter? Any why are you running Resource Conserving oil?
If you're lucky, this was just some dirt getting past your air filter. What are the driving conditions? -Dennis |
04-01-2014, 03:03 PM | #291 |
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they asked me to check my air filter because of the silicon. I have an AVO turbo kit so it uses a k&n cone filter and it touches the brake lines on the abs pump. I have to stick with the cone filter as the kit does not allow for using the the stock air box. It may still touch a little bit when the engine torques but I don't know. Adding the AOS may be another source as it is sealed up with RTV.
10w-30 is reasonable for here i think. Temp ranges from about -10C (14F) to 35C (95F) over the year. And there is really only a time of maybe 2-3 weeks of being close to that cold point. I run that all year round. I did however go ice racing for 6 days over the course of the winter. This was -25C (-13F) starts with some high rpm driving while racing. I also did quite a few autox events. Overall I probably did 100 runs between all the events. I tried to let it warm up for as long as possible before actually racing but it was hard to actually keep heat in the engine even with it running sometimes. Could very well be from the cold starts... Aren't most oils resource conserving? I am using castrol edge synthetic 10w-30. A bunch of people recommended the 0w-30 german castrol which i will probably switch to but seeing that I had a bunch of the 10w-30 still I figured I'd use it all up before switching. The turbo I'm using is a garrett ball bearing turbo (gt2560r) and the oil seals are going on it. Does any part of that have lead in it? I'm not sure what kind of seals they use... I've got a bunch of parts on the way in prep for doing some track days and I will be draining the oil at that point. Probably won't make it to 2000km though... I'm replacing the oil pump(i have an 11mm currently and replacing it with a 10mm), and putting on a killerb pickup/tray and an sti oil pan. Also have a mocal oil cooler to put on. Should I bother sending in a sample with so little mileage on it? I may clean out my drain pan and reuse it i guess... |
04-01-2014, 05:20 PM | #292 | ||||||
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Quote:
Quote:
Given what you've said, I'm inclined to believe the silicon doesn't have anything to do with the lead, and that the lead was caused either by cold-start problems or high oil temperature problems. Either way, get an oil better suited to the way you use your car. Quote:
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04-01-2014, 05:51 PM | #293 | |
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Quote:
The mocal indeed does have a thermostatic switch in it. No problems there! And at the same time as all these other things I'm putting in, I have a oil temp sensor going in as well. I have to weld on a bung for my oil return on the new pan so I will be adding another bung for the sensor right in the pan. Sensor is sitting on my desk waiting... Just a little background on the car... It is a 2011sti short block with sohc heads on it. When installed the block had 32,000km and the heads about 60,000km. Turbo kit is also used (50k-ish) running about 8psi, stock redline(6250rpm) and yes, it sees that rpm often while at autox/rallyx/icex at least once a month up to 4 times a month (like on this analysis). The rest of the time its dd with a rather short 15min commute. Hence the typically long interval between changes. Last edited by Zefy; 04-01-2014 at 05:59 PM. |
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04-02-2014, 12:39 AM | #294 |
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....OH MY GAWDWEREALLGUNNADIE-DIE-DIEHORRIBLEDEATHSFROMCOLDOILDIE-DIE-DE
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04-02-2014, 07:49 AM | #295 | |
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Quote:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ction-filters/ Here's another uoa running a K&N panel filter: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2992480 -Dennis |
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04-02-2014, 09:24 AM | #296 | ||
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04-02-2014, 12:43 PM | #297 | |
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Location: Coquitlam, BC, Canada
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Quote:
I will keep a more diligent eye on my oil levels send in another sample when I swap out all the parts I'm planning. I checked last night and it will be about 2800km on the oil. |
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04-02-2014, 08:45 PM | #298 |
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"...but K&N filters aren't great. If you can find another cone filter that fits the tube, replace it. Could be from RTV too, wait until the next UOA to replace the filter, you've got bigger problems. "
I ran a K n N cone filter for 20 years, and 525 000 km ( 300 000 + miles ) . Original engine... '93 Acura Integra. REDLINED every day, for 20 years... Given the longevity of the engine, I would say it filtered GOOD ENOUGH! I also ran 15w40 and 50 in the summer, 0w30/40 or 5w30 in the winter... and changed it often. Lost count of how many times I was told that thick oil would grenade the engine. Nope, never exploded! Head gasket finally let go, and rust was winning... so I let it go. I believe that in the current environment of fluids / filters etc., most products are good, or very good. Enthusiasts tend to try and find those EXCELLENT products, for peace of mind or bragging rights or whatever... I wonder sometimes if the cars really care... |
04-04-2014, 05:52 PM | #299 |
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Here is my oil analysis.... Sorry I couldn't upload the page.
Aluminum 5 Chromium 1 Iron 12 Copper 18 Lead 0 Tin 0 Molybdenum 87 Nickel 0 Manganese 1 Silver 3 Titanium 2 Potassium 2 Boron 95 Silicone 16 Sodium 5 Calcium 2182 Magnesium 34 Phosphorus 798 Zinc 880 Barium 0 Sus viscosity @210 f. 55.4 Cst viscosity @100 c. 8.89 Flashpoint F. 350 Fuel percentage. 0.8 Antifreeze. 0.0 Water percentage. 0.0 Insolubles. 0.3 At the time of the sample the engine had only 4000 miles on it. The oil sample that was taken had 2000 miles on it. I am running Pennzoil ultra 5W-30, with the Bosch filter. After 2000 miles I have only consumed one 1/10th qrt. I look forward to hearing everyone's opinion!! Thanks!! |
04-04-2014, 06:11 PM | #300 |
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Nice 20 weight oil you've got there. That's the thinnest I think I've seen Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 get. Flashpoint is a bit low, but fuel is only slightly elevated. Something seems amiss. Engine seems to have broken in well, wear metals are only slightly elevated, as is silicon. Note it's Silicon not Silicone. Silicon is an element on the periodic table, silicone is for breast augmentation.
What car is this? New WRX/STI? Can you run a thicker oil? |
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