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Old 08-24-2008, 12:23 PM   #26
Dutch Devotion
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If you just go for the WRC style IC I wouldn't bother to long about the MAF position, leave it as it is. The BOV shld be as close as possible to the throttle as possible. If you decide to go for the airintake in WRC style (on the TMIC location) I think you have no option but to relocate the MAF sensor between your BOV and throttle. So some carefull thinking is required about your desired BOV location related to your future plans in order to avoid double labour............

Groeten aan je voeten,

Erik
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:42 PM   #27
modaddict
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*gasp*

is that 2" intercooler piping?
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:34 AM   #28
Dutch Devotion
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Looks like there isn't that much of know how a/o experience within Nasioc about relocating BOV's and MAF's............................
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:44 AM   #29
Homemade WRX
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its easy...put the maf downstream (towards TB) of the BOV and on the cold charge pipe...

you can place a BOV on the hotpipe side. It will drop pressure in the pipe so you don't stall the turbo (and choke exhaust flow) and piss its wheels and bearings off.
The charge will also take a little longer to drop on the cold pipe side as flow will have to then run back through the IC.

I don't understand the want to look fast...?
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Old 03-27-2009, 03:00 PM   #30
leoimpreza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wimprezawrx View Post

My opinion is to place your BOV in option 1.
What diameter is your turbo inlet???

Last edited by leoimpreza; 03-27-2009 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 03-28-2009, 12:23 PM   #31
GodSquadMandrake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wimprezawrx View Post

Off course I want the performance of the WRC car, but come on, I now that if I do everything according to the book,
it still will be a street car , and never will it be a true WRC …

But because I have the WRC S7 replica nose on the car, I would like the WRC (style) intercooler in the top grille, I think that’s still missing…
To do that, I would like that idea to pull thru in to the engine bay, so I need to do the piping and keep it as short as possible and here again came up with the idea to keep it in the WRC “style” and reverse the inlet manifold, alternator re-place, air filter box.

Then I came up with the idea to put the MAF in to one of the intercooler pipes, because I want to keep the TD04/TD05? on the stock position, but then saw that I don’t have many space to connect the turbo to the air filter box on top of the engine (oem intercooler space)…

Also have many parts waiting for assembly to give some more power, Walbro 255ltr, 550(pink STI) injectors, Aeromotive FPR and Fuel rails, Tial 38mm External Wastegate, light weight pulleys, brackets to replace alternator, TD05?
etc etc…

And you now me , everything has to be perfect....

To answer you question:
I guess I will go for the looks and if (all) these mods will bring some gain of engine power,
performance and driveability that will be noticeable, I wont mind that at all…

Thanks,
W
This is not the answer you want to hea probably but this is how I see it...

WRC cars SUCK from a tuner perspective and nobody would build a car like that unless the rules made them. The whole setup is one giant compromise because FIA rules require a 34mm restrictor, disallows injection of anything but water into the intake, displacement no more than 2.0 liters, no moving the engine mounts lower or further back, has to run on gas (no meth or E85, well maybe E85), the engine has to have street legal exhaust with a cat that works, the wastegate has to dump into the exhaust not the atmsophere, etc etc.
The whole reason they develop cool things like the anti-lag systems is because the restrictor creates so much turbo lag it wouldn't work well without it. I mean sure it's useful on street cars but you have unlimited airflow! A WRC car is limited to 372 CFM maximum.

If Prodrive/Subaru didn't have all these rules you can sure bet they would build their rally cars a lot closer to a street car and would do different, more effective modifications.

If I was building a street car I would build it from the perspective of what a Prodrive engineer would do without all the crappy restrictions and rules.

For the FMIC setup you notice how high up and far back it is setup in comparison to an average FMIC setup? Rocks and dust stay low so the higher up it is, the less it will get clogged. Also being so far behind the bumper bar means it has more of a cushion of protection during collisions with trees and rocks. If it was a street car without dust, rocks, and trees I think they would have designed it differently. Hey I didn't design the thing but I know they had to compromise and think about these rally dangers when designing it. Do you need to worry about this stuff? Just something to think about. I'm not trying to tell you how to do your car man, but it's a lot of effort to get an FMIC setup like that if you aren't Petter Solberg
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:45 PM   #32
u2_m4r1n3
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Anyone end up doing this?
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