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Old 10-14-2014, 07:08 PM   #1
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default 1992 JDM Wrx Problems

Hey guys,

Just bought a RHD 1992 Wrx with 135,000 on it, my first Subaru and I love it already for the most part.

Of course it had no problems when I was test driving it, but on the way home it started acting up. Sale was final too. Only paid 4000 for the car, maybe I misunderstood the value.

It was running perfect then the idle started to flucuate heavly from 500-1500 rpm with the boost gauge moving with the rpm gauge.
Next it would hesitate and misfire between 2-3000 rpms.
Sometimes it would stall out when idleing.
I had it die out on me in 5th gear twice on the highway.
The last in the problems would be sometimes It would be like the gas pedal was not even there and then the engine would suddenly have power.
When it works well though it has lots of power and is very smooth.
Vacum on the boost gauge, when the idle is not flucuating is -0.8bar steady

The weird thing is, is that this does not happen all the time only sometimes. Its at the shop right now with professional mechanics, one who used to be a technician at Subaru he is not entirly sure what it is. I just wanna see what people on here think? When codes were pulled, I had codes for the MAP sensor ( Bad Vacuum Line) and a fuel injector 1 problem. Also a 02 sensor code. I am really hoping its these codes and nothing too serious.

What do you guys think? I am new to the world of tuning and this is a great chance to learn I hope, even though Im half pissed

Mods (related to engine)

FMIC
16g Turbo
MBC (Boosting to around 1bar)
Computer is tuned, not sure to what though. I have the original ecu too.
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Last edited by GeoffBurgoyne11y.; 10-14-2014 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:37 AM   #2
CRX7
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Member#: 31639
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Vehicle:
99 Impreza
White

Default

I've spent 2 years now sorting out my EJ20g swapped wagon. This is an old turbo engine, lots of things to go wrong. Sensors, gaskets, boost leak, coils... the list goes on. Take it one at a time and do the obvious things.

Sounds like a crank or cam sensor for what you're describing though. EJ25D 98 Legacy crank sensor works. Continue to read the ECU codes, they are your friend.
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:32 PM   #3
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default

Yeah I cant wait.. Used to old cars though before this I had a obd1 1990 Volvo lol. Anwyays the car will not start for the mechanics now either, or spark so im almost positive its a cps.

How are the issues coming along?
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Old 10-19-2014, 01:27 AM   #4
CRX7
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Currently breaking in my rebuilt TD05 on a stock exhaust manifold I ported, so keeping the boost down. APS header the car came with gave me all kinds of leaks, got rid of it.

I've got a CPS and knock sensor code right now too. Bought it, haven't swapped it yet. Need a day off work. Then maybe I can see if I can run 18psi on the 550 robtune without boost cut.
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:37 AM   #5
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

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Im waiting to monday to see what happens with my car. Hopefully your cars running good soon, the rob 550 tune works great.. Before my issues got bad I was loving it.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:49 AM   #6
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default

What are your thoughts on these sensors? Can I trust they will fit?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Genuine-S...451880&vxp=mtr
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Old 10-24-2014, 05:41 AM   #7
i_c_the_light
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Nope they won't work so good.
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:35 AM   #8
rhdgc8
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Member#: 337795
Join Date: Nov 2012
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: New Brunswick
Vehicle:
2001 JDM STI Ver7
WRB

Default

I have the same car and also had the same issue awhile back. It use to stall on me while driving (freaked me out). Also use to not start from time to time. Come to find out it was a bad connector on top of the tank. I replaced it and haven't had the issue since. These ej20g's are great engines but always something you gotta tinker with. Good luck and I hope this solves your issue.

Are you running stock fuel pump or Walbro 255?

Here is a picture of the plug on mine.



BTW I am a Maritimer to :P

Last edited by rhdgc8; 10-24-2014 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:43 AM   #9
rhdgc8
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: New Brunswick
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2001 JDM STI Ver7
WRB

Default

Its likely throwing fuel injector code and 02 code do to it running lean from the bad connector. I also forgot to mention there is two connectors. The one I showed in picture, and their is also another one under the rear seats, usually melted causing to make poor connection
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Old 10-25-2014, 12:08 AM   #10
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
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Red

Default

I will get those connections checked on Monday. Thanks man, goood to see someone else from around the Maritimes posting.
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Old 10-27-2014, 10:19 AM   #11
CRX7
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Like I said EJ25D 1998 Legacy 2.5 Crank Angle Sensor works. I just put it in. $23 at Autozone:
Duralast/Crankshaft Position Sensor
Part Number: SU4012
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:08 PM   #12
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default

Ordering now. Thank you.
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:15 PM   #13
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default

Did it fix any issues.
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Old 11-01-2014, 12:36 AM   #14
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default

Got the new Crank Sensor on, It needed it as the old one was pretty corroded. But still no start now and just started doing this at the shop. We seem to think it was immobilized by the Viper Alarm which hasnt done anything in the past. Me nor the previous owner even knew it was there. Anyways I put it in Valet mode just in case and still no start.

I'm getting Code 14 and 24 as of now when I have the two black connectors together.
So 14- Fuel Injector 1
24- IACV

Im starting to lean towards the fuel pump or a fuel related issue because of the injector code. This will be a tough one to figure out it seems hahah
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Old 11-02-2014, 12:20 AM   #15
Wrxra
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I have a 1993 wrx and had similar symptoms with a bad afm, may be worth cleaning or checking yours. I didn't get a injector code but it did throw code 24 which went away with an afm and ecu reset.
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Old 11-02-2014, 07:11 PM   #16
Cbgrandtheftauto
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: TN
Vehicle:
99 Impreza RS
'13 BRZ

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Sounds like you bought a car with issues.

It's got a post maf boost leak. It also has a sensor map/maf/cam going out too.

Start with the boost leak first
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Old 11-02-2014, 11:31 PM   #17
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default

One I figure out why it won't turn on I will move on to checking for boost leaks. But yes I was sold a car with issues, that did not start till about 2 days after I bought it.
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Old 11-24-2014, 05:23 PM   #18
GeoffBurgoyne11y.
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Member#: 403950
Join Date: Oct 2014
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Vehicle:
2001 EZ30D Forester
Red

Default

Hey guys got the issues sorted out by a guy who specializes in subaru's. The fuel injector was pissing out gas causing the engine to flood. So fixed that then figured out why it wouldn't start, which was the second and 4th coil was swapped around. Cleaned the plugs and it fired right up. Now to check for the air leak and it'll be good to go. Thanks for your help everyone.
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