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06-29-2010, 02:59 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
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Vehicle:2010 Impreza 2.5i silver |
New, new, new
Ok, This is my first Subaru, I've spent many, many years in the American Muscle Car world and my understanding of these vehicles is pretty much zero. With that being said, what are, if any, the first N/A performance mods folks do to these vehicles? I drive 160 miles a day round trip to work, so reliability and gas mileage are an issue. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
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06-29-2010, 04:17 PM | #2 |
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Vehicle:2008 Impreza 2.5i Dark Grey Metallic |
If you're looking for muscle, the N/A isn't where you'll find it. There ARE performance parts but its not worth it for the little gains you'd get out of it. Any safe mods are modest at best without beefing up internals, going with forced induction and plenty o tuning.
Tuning is a big deal but yet again N/A imprezas' have limits. Just be glad you got a reliable AWD daily driver that won't get stuck in the snow like the jerk in that accord in front of you when you hit the slopes. I was that jerk once |
06-29-2010, 05:02 PM | #3 | |
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YOu chose the wrong car my friend should have stayed with whatever muscle you had the 2.5i offers NONE |
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06-29-2010, 05:47 PM | #4 |
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seriously, when I was in CO everyone had a subaru or an Audi.. I was in heaven because I still had my 2nd subaru at the time. You can search around the N/A thread for performance stuff.. It's fun to mod cars, yes.. but you will never get real performance from the 2.5i, the WRX and STi are the performance versions of the impreza.. Think V6 mustang compared to GT or cobra.. it's a great daily driver though.. just enjoy it for that man..
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06-29-2010, 07:45 PM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:2005 2.5RS RBP too many friction losses |
You can look at cams, headers, and a tune to get you around stock WRX levels. Beyond that, you're looking at much more extensive modification.
You should still do headers (a good equal length, **** the sound, power is what counts) as that will give you your largest bolt on performance gain. Then, go crazy with handling mods. |
06-30-2010, 03:38 AM | #6 | |
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06-30-2010, 08:32 AM | #7 | |
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OP do not listen to posts of the above variety YOU WILL NEVER GET CLOSE TO WRX numbers with cams headers and a tune you might get 150 at the wheels and that is an exaggeration. The sounds is your choice EL or UEL it really doesnt matter you cant take more air out of an engine that the intake valves allow in on the exhaust stroke. The only big power N/A wise you might make is from a EZ30R or a EZ36R now those two platforms have real potential. Anyway trade your 2.5i for a WRX or a Legacy GT or a STi or an older RS and swap it. But in the mean time get suspension parts |
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06-30-2010, 09:27 AM | #8 |
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Do muffler and maybe headers.
Hope you kept the old heavy iron for weekends. Peace, Greg |
06-30-2010, 10:35 AM | #9 | |
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Vehicle:2005 2.5RS RBP too many friction losses |
Quote:
EDIT: 40whp may be a stretch, but definitely 30. Either way, I'd still do headers. Last edited by chazly413; 06-30-2010 at 12:09 PM. |
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06-30-2010, 12:06 PM | #10 |
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Suspension mods are the best bang for buck deal you can get with our cars. for sound I have the magnaflow 2.5" wrx catbacks on my car
I would save your money by not getting an accessport and learning how to tune and use opensource Edit: Also from what I hear is you can get better gas mileage from tuning it too, our stock tunes are crap |
06-30-2010, 12:13 PM | #11 |
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06-30-2010, 12:19 PM | #12 |
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06-30-2010, 02:26 PM | #13 | |
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secondly, there is a 54 HP difference between a stock 2.5i and 08 wrx and the weight difference is only 70 pounds.. a highly modified N/A RS coupe maybe in auto X.. but sedans and wagons vs sedans and wagons.. why even bother.. |
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06-30-2010, 03:12 PM | #14 |
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Try again 200 crank NOT happening LOL even with cams and headers. Header go ahead they make track pipes that will mate it up but youll get the CEL either way you go.
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06-30-2010, 03:43 PM | #15 |
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Vehicle:2005 2.5RS RBP too many friction losses |
Definitely 30 from just cams, headers and an intake. No tune even:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595740 |
06-30-2010, 04:19 PM | #16 | |
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Thats on a EJ251 different engine different timing maps plus he had CAI, CBE, Headers, and cams not ot mention he is comparing that EJ251 to a EJ205!!! EJ253 vs EJ255 youre not getting close period. |
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06-30-2010, 04:30 PM | #17 |
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yea dude, I was part of that thread.. that is apples to oranges. Actually everything you are mentioning is apples to oranges. What is the point on heavily modifying a brand new car for the OP, and having a super lumpy idle and a loud track oriented car to drive long daily drives to work.. just to almost be like a bone stock old model WRX? It's cool for a build but what you propose is just not intelligent. Not to mention that old wrx with like a 5 minute laptop tweak could pack on another 40HP with no supporting bolt ons..
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06-30-2010, 04:42 PM | #18 | |
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06-30-2010, 05:46 PM | #19 | |
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Vehicle:2005 2.5RS RBP too many friction losses |
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06-30-2010, 06:45 PM | #20 |
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It is very "so". You can improve gas mileage and power output with a good tune, BUT only if you have the supporting hardware to allow for increased efficiency. Good EL headers (TWE is really the only option aside from some one-off fabrication), an intake and a tune could potentially get you +20 ft/lbs peak and maybe +10 hp at redline, but the biggest gains would be in area under the tq/curve especially under 4k rpm. My highway went up a very solid and repeatable 2mpg per tank.
without any bolt-ons a tune won't net you any milage increase, it's already pushed past the limit from the factory. A tune on a compltetly stock engine can improve driveability (most noticeable with manual transmission) and reduce/eliminate the knock that is present on even 93oct gas. The hardware to get the described gains will cost ~$1000 plus labor and a good, thorough dyno tune is usually $200+ like everyone has said, extracting more power is possible but cost amounts of $ that most who buy a 2.5i are not willing to spend. You could make 300+ hp n/a but it will cost something like $10,000 or you could make 200hp n/a and it could cost something like $1500 Also, ImprezaJohn, try not to get too caught up in the internet dick measuring contests that often erupt on here. lots of no so good info, but its easy to weed out with a little follow-up research. Last edited by GrundleJuice; 06-30-2010 at 06:50 PM. |
06-30-2010, 10:21 PM | #21 | |
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Stop and go traffic relies heavily on car weight for energy losses. Long distance driving is all about friction and the big factor of aerodynamics. Most modern engines are very good about completely burning the fuel that is run through the car. Mods can help put more air and fuel into the car and make more power, but efficiency doesn't really change. You just get to make more power. Some gains that you can do for efficiency is to pull in as cold of air as possible and to burn it as hot as you can without damaging parts, and you can up compression and change cams for more efficient operation. For long distance, I would point you more towards improving aerodynamics and reducing friction. Every little bit helps. Run efficient tires and run them at high pressure. Run good synthetic oil and gear lube to keep machine friction low. Carefully select or remove trip pieces that improve aerodynamics (removing roof rack, installing smaller mirrors (some cars came with a couple options), adding a skid plate and some under tray bits to reduce under chassis drag, etc.). For in town, find places you can remove some weight from the car. Run a lightweight batter, JDM, or race built bumper beams (very light), swap to aluminum suspension componments, pull the spare (maybe swap t runflats), swap on a CF hood and trunk. You can just run through the whole slew of parts and just try and drop weight. Even something like a lightweight flywheel drops 10 lbs. and reduces a a sizable amount of rotational energy used to accelerate the motor and car. |
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06-30-2010, 11:13 PM | #22 | |
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07-01-2010, 02:55 AM | #23 |
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Vehicle:2009 Audi A4 2.0T APR Stage 1 |
dude you are seriously like a non stop contradiction. You are not adding anything of value to this thread going on about the OP getting new cams, headers and race exhaust for a car to do 160 mile per day commutes in.
Also, the thread you posted for me as proof are about the spicy cams matt put on his RS. Those are the more aggressive of the 2 cams from that company. There is the regular street and then the spicy.. Both are streetable; however, the spicy cams most definitely lead to a very lump idle. I have rode along in a RS with Spicy cams.. it was VERY noticeable as were the performance gains.. Still nothing like 12 PSI kicking in.. I considered doing cam work at one time and was leaning more toward the delta regrind then the spicy cams.. |
07-01-2010, 08:24 AM | #24 | |
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07-01-2010, 08:27 AM | #25 | |
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did you use the flat adapter plate that came with your CBE? I have a WRX CBE not on my car but I have one in the garage it wont mate flush b/c the stock connections uses a donut gasket you have to use that plate in place of donut and buy a gasket. |
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