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10-09-2007, 07:01 AM | #126 | ||||
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over time these can develop deposits since they are not flushed out with fresh coolant. it won't go pop. Quote:
in short, it is not needed. Quote:
take it from someone who has put on 60k+ miles in new england without a TB heater--ice is not a problem. Quote:
not to mention the fact that the water jacket is probably not designed for the high pressures commonly seen in co2 systems.
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10-09-2007, 08:00 AM | #127 | ||||
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10-09-2007, 12:05 PM | #128 |
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If you put just a vacuum cap over the end of the tube on the block like most people use to seal tube the TB coolant passage after it's been disconnected, the first time you pressurize the coolant system, that little bugger is going into orbit. Which will lead to you spraying coolant all over the heated engine bay.
Which will lead to massive quantities of white smoke coming out of the grille, the hood shut lines, the vents, everywhere really. Which will lead to everyone in the car freaking out. Which will lead to the driver swerving across 5 lanes of rush hour traffic to catch the first exit. Which will lead to shooting off the exit ramp into the entry to an ER cause that's what the ramp was for. Which will lead to driving around a small roundabout at high speeds again and again because the driver can't figure out what to do now. Which will lead to a very clear corkscrew of smoke rising up into the air. Which will lead to the the ambulance crew that's waiting to get their gear back laughing their asses off. Which will lead to you calling your parents to tell them the car caught on fire and you're now at the ER. OK, so maybe the last paragraph won't happen to you. But take it from me, that's not a fun thing to be a passenger for... |
10-09-2007, 12:47 PM | #129 |
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Which is another arguement for just looping the factory coolant line.
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10-09-2007, 01:14 PM | #130 | |
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when someone said the phrase "plug a line," i made the foolish assumption that they didn't do it like a complete and utter jackass. while we're at it, i think we should also warn people not to use hair scrunchies in place of hose clamps either, for when they "loop a line." i wouldn't want folks to get the false impression that looping is inherently less prone to popping than plugging is. we should also point out that you have to do everything else (ie, removing the tmic, removing the tb inlet coupler hose, disconnecting the bov, and then putting it all back together again) properly to avoid things that won't be fun for passengers. oh yeah, and you have to be able to drive too. |
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10-09-2007, 02:42 PM | #131 | |
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You're right though, one would hope that someone would be smart enough to do it correctly and use a plug that would hold 15psi or so (safety margin). I just don't have that much faith in humanity. |
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10-09-2007, 04:03 PM | #132 |
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10-09-2007, 04:18 PM | #133 |
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You can actually do it without removing ANYTHING. I did it on my 02, just need a pair of long needle nose pliers and a hemostat to grab the hose.
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10-09-2007, 04:43 PM | #134 |
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is there any need to bleed the cooling system of air after doing this?
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10-09-2007, 05:23 PM | #135 |
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No, if you're the least bit careful, there's going to be about 3 drops of coolant spilled. If you know you screwed up bigtime and let a massive quantity out (I have NO idea how you'd do that), then you ought to top it off and burp it.
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10-09-2007, 05:48 PM | #136 |
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thanks, Im going to get the coupler and do this tomorrow.
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10-10-2007, 02:25 PM | #137 |
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hey guys, i dont know if im an idiot or not but i did this mod about a year ago and right after the idle went nuts and i got a cel for iacv safe mode. what did i do wrong?
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10-10-2007, 03:16 PM | #138 |
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from the sounds of it, you messed up your iacv...
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10-10-2007, 03:37 PM | #139 |
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well i reconnected the hoses and it returned to normal.....
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10-11-2007, 12:32 PM | #140 |
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I have done the coolant bypass mod, and I also have phenolic spacers. Now I am seeing a temp differential of about 20 degrees F from the left hand side to the right hand side of the intake manifold(using IR temp gun). Where is the coolant resovoir relocation FAQ ??? What is causing the large temperature differential? I find it hard to believe the turbo/uppipe is heating the manifold on the Righthand side that much. I think the next logical step in cooling the intake would be getting that hot arse resovoir far away as possible.
Who has done the coolant resorvoir relocation? IS there a thread for it? Perhaps a set of spacers and longer bolts (between resorvoir and manifold) would be enough to minimize the heat transfer. |
10-14-2007, 09:22 PM | #141 |
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Now I've allways thought that the hot coolant running through the throttle body was a stupid idea... And clearly it is. Now how about this, you run an 12.01 at the track every time, and you just cant break that 12. Maybe run COLD WATER through the throttle body? Make a aluminum box and put ice water in it when you get to the track. Wire up some sort of small pump to circulate the cold water from the box, into the throttle body? Just curious why noones ever mentioned it or thought about it. Shotty copyright
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10-15-2007, 01:22 PM | #142 | |
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10-15-2007, 02:01 PM | #143 | |
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10-15-2007, 03:14 PM | #144 |
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I've been watching this post and am somewhat surprised at the length it has achieved at this point.
I did this to my throttle body when I replaced my turbo inlet pipe the other day. It would appear to me that even the greenest of mechanics would be able to understand the coolant flow and how to bypass the throttle body without any problem. You don't need any new parts. No plugs, no couplers, nothing. One of the two coolant lines is long enough to reach and span the hard pipe coolant ports. I even cut some of the line off cause it was too long. There are more clamps there than you need since you only need 2 and the factory setup uses four. I'm didn't figure there would really be this much to talk about, and now I'm just adding to the problem. Addressing the question of does it do anything? Who knows. But the DSM community has been doing this same mod since the early 90's for all the same reasons. Will this ever end is the question. /Brox |
10-15-2007, 10:39 PM | #145 |
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10-15-2007, 11:10 PM | #146 | |
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10-16-2007, 06:37 AM | #147 |
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the problem with cooling via the tb comes down to temp differentials.
consider the case of ice water. that's a 32*f minimum. if ambient temps are around 70, we can expect the average output of the ic to be somewhere around 85 or so. 85 - 32 = 53*f difference consider the case of coolant. according to my datalogs, average coolant temp with an oem t-stat is around 185*f. 185 - 85 = 100*f difference. so even if you could keep that ice bath going it would still be half as effective at lowering charge temps as the coolant is at raising them. jm2c ken |
10-16-2007, 10:35 AM | #148 |
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Ok, on the question of plugs (yeh, I know), there appears to be a factory
plug/cap on a line that is near the left tumble generator postion sensor. What is this used for? |
11-03-2007, 02:08 AM | #149 | |
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wonder if both will make a difference. |
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11-03-2007, 10:36 AM | #150 |
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FWIW, the shorter line actually fit much better for this mod on my '02. Taking off both clamps and rotating the line makes it fit just like factory.
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