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Old 12-16-2010, 04:03 PM   #1
Tut4u2
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Post DIY Brembo Front and Rear caliper rebuild

Like most people with WRXs, I recently acquired some Brembos and I decided to rebuild them just for piece of mind. A good number of people split the calipers apart but I'm not a fan of that methods for a couple of reasons:

1. The bolt are stretch bolts and I rather not re-use them
2. There are no torque specs for those bolts
3. Brembo doesn't offer an o-ring replacement for the calipers
4. Even the service manual rebuilds them as I'm about to show

That being said, I'm sure splitting the calipers isn't going to cause any catastrophic damage, but I'm just uncomfortable with doing and there's plenty of space with the caliper being together to do the work.

The first step was to figure out which rebuild kit to buy. Mach V (Fastwrx.com) offers the Brembo Rebuild Kit and their own Mach V Rebuild Kit. I elected to use the latter, because it was cheaper and the quality seemed pretty good. Keep in mind if you buy the Brembo kit you only need to buy ONE for BOTH calipers, with the Mach V kit you need to TWO kits to do BOTH calipers.

Here are some pictures comparing the two:
Brembo kit is on top here

Brembo on the left. You can tell it has a smoother finish

Up close

Thickness is the same as far as I can tell

Dust boots. Brembo on the left

The rear kit. Brembo on top. The rear dust boots are gray instead of black.


Next up...the actual rebuilding.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:03 PM   #2
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It doesn't really matter which side you do first, but I would say choose a place with a lot of lighting, take your time, and be patient. These are your brakes, so don't rush it.

Lets look at the front first.
My calipers were loaded, yours might not but here's what I did.
1. Take out the two clips out of the cross pins. A pair of pliers will work well.

2. You can use a punch or the other end of the pliers to get the cross pins moving out of the caliper.

3. Other side; samething.

4. To help get the pin out, reduce the tension on it by pushing the spring down.

5. Here's what you should have when you get everything out.

6. Now you have to get the dust boot out of the caliper. There's a little hole in the caliper so you can stick a small screw driver in there and pop it out. Just be careful and work it around. The boots come out easy and with no force.

7. Once you get the boots out of the calipers, repeat for the other 3 pistons. next up we need to get the pistons out of the caliper. Grab a piece of wood, stick it between the calipers, grab your air gun, and stick the gun where the brake line would go

8. Modulate how much air you use, since the pistons do come FLYING out. Once the pistons are out, loosen up the bleeder valves, and you can simply wiggle the pistons out.
NOTE: There will be residual oil where in the housing so be careful.
NOTE: The pistons are different sizes, obviously, and just note which side the pistons came out of. They are color coded if you forget.
9. Next up is getting the actual seal out. Use a small screw driver and get it out. It doesn't stick or anything so its easy to get out. Take note not to scratch the housing. BE PATIENT.


10. Once you remove the other three seals, grab your new seals and some brake fluid. Pour some brake fluid into a cup and be generous. I used Super Blue simply because it was on the shelf and its nice because I switch between the Motul and the Blue so when I bleed the brakes I can know when the fluid is completely changed.

Last edited by Tut4u2; 12-16-2010 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:03 PM   #3
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11. Dip the seals in the cup of blue and let them soak for a little

12. Clean up the pistons and lube up the inside of the caliper.
13. Put the appropriately sized dust boot on the piston and gently pull it down. Keep pulling it down up the boot sits flush the piston. There should be no lip or anything. It should look like this.

14. Dip the piston in your cup of brake fluid and put the piston back into the caliper. I don't have a picture of this but its pretty self evident.
NO PICTURES but here are some tips.
  • Put the piston in STRAIGHT
  • Push the piston in as gently as possible until you feel some resistance
  • Then hold the caliper as if you are hugging it and push the piston in with your fingers tip
  • Apply EQUAL pressure with both hands and it will go..TRUST ME
  • You don't need to use a vice, clamps, or anything. Equal force and be patient. If there's a lot of reistance, take out the piston, clean it, relube it, and try again.
Here's a picture of how to push them back in.

15. Repeat for the remaining pistons and close off the bleeder valves.
16. Move on to the other caliper.
17. Clean up residual brake fluid.
18. Congrats! You're done with the front. Time for the rears.

Last edited by Tut4u2; 12-16-2010 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:04 PM   #4
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The rears are the same process as the fronts. Nothing special, except two less pistons but here are the pictures regardless.
1. The two retaining clips have to come out.

2. Push them out to help yourself.

3. Here's what you should have left

4. Just like the fronts, there's a location on the caliper that helps you get the dust boot off. Take both dust boots off.


5. Put a piece off wood in the middle, and use the air gun carefully to get the pistons out.

6. Once the pistons are out a little, take the dust boots off completely.

7. Loosen up the bleeder valves and take both pistons out.

8. Using a small screw driver, take out the seal.

Last edited by Tut4u2; 12-16-2010 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:04 PM   #5
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9. Let the new seal soak in place fluid before you put them in.

10. Clean off the pistons and install the new dust boots. Pull down the dust boots until they are FLUSH as seen above. The following is what YOU DO NOT WANT IT TO LOOK LIKE.

11. Soak the piston in fluid.

12. Simply push the piston back in like described above.
13. Move to the other piston.
14. Close the bleeder valves.
15. Clean off the caliper.
16. You're done!

Last edited by Tut4u2; 12-16-2010 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:18 PM   #6
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Somethings to note. The whole process took me about an hour and a half for all the calipers. Just be patient, and don't force anything. These are your brakes. I will update the thread once the car goes on the track come around Spring and will let you know how everything has held up.

Additional Tips:
  • If in the process of getting out the pistons, one piston comes out (or two pistons come out in the case of the fronts) and the other one doesn't budge then don't freak out. Simply push the piston that came out back in. Take off the bleeder valve on the side with the stuck piston and push air through the valve; that stuck piston will come out. If comes out slightly and not all the way, then repeat until it does. If you're still dead in the water, then put the old dust boot on and pry on the piston gently with a screw driver. Pry around the piston equally and be gently. DO NOT plug up the hole with the brake line goes in as that will pressurize BOTH side of the caliper and the unstuck piston will fly out at you.
  • If you don't have a small screw driver to get the inner seal out of the caliper and you're worried about scratching the calipers, then you can use a zip tie.

Links for reference.
Mach V Rebuild Kit: http://www.fastwrx.com/mavbrreki.html
OEM Brembo Rebuild Kit: http://www.fastwrx.com/subrcarekit.html
Superblue Brake fluid: http://www.fastwrx.com/atesupblurac.html

I hope this comes in handy.

Mach V Che!

Last edited by Tut4u2; 12-17-2010 at 09:06 AM. Reason: Updated with a tip
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:38 PM   #7
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an additional tip would be:

wear gloves, brake fluid is highly carcinogenic.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:58 PM   #8
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Wow this is an awesome write up, thanks so much! This will be extremely helpful for people especially re-painting their brakes. I am thinking sticky!

Will
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kumanchu View Post
an additional tip would be:

wear gloves, brake fluid is highly carcinogenic.
No, no it isn't. In fact, it's not very dangerous at all.

DOT 3 & 4 Fluids:
Quote:
Acute Effects

Inhalation: Vapors are mildly to markedly irritating to the lungs depending on the exposure level.

Eye: Causes severe irritation experienced as discomfort or pain, excess blinking and tear production, with marked excess redness and swelling of the conjunctiva.

Skin: No adverse effects expected with exposure to skin. Brief contact may cause slight irritation. Prolonged contact, as with clothing wetted with material, may cause more severe irritation and discomfort, seen as local redness and swelling.

Ingestion: Ingestion may be fatal. May cause abdominal discomfort, nausea, and vomiting. May produce central nervous system depression and kidney damage.

Carcinogenicity: This compound contains no ingredients at concentration of 0.1% or greater that are carcinogens or suspect carcinogens.


Medical Conditions Aggravated by Long-Term Exposure: Pre-existing skin, eye, and respiratory disorders may be aggravated by exposure to this product. Impaired kidney function from preexisting disorders may be aggravated by exposure to this product.

Chronic Effects: Repeated exposure may result in drying of the skin and mucous membranes, causing irritation and dryness.
http://www.kmcoinc.com/DOT3%20Brake%...%289-09%29.pdf
http://www.kmcoinc.com/DOT4%20Brake%...%289-09%29.pdf

The brake dust poses a higher risk due to it's fine particle size and the compounds used in the friction and binder materials.

Last edited by kpluiten; 12-16-2010 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Decent December
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:30 PM   #10
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Vote for sticky!


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Old 12-16-2010, 06:24 PM   #11
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Rebuilding brakes can seem like a daunting task, but all it takes is time, patience, and common sense.

Without referencing a guide I was able to rebuild my rear calipers last month, by taking my time, being patient, and using common sense. This is an excellent guide for those who need it!

Vote for sticky! (report the post and say STICKY!)
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:28 PM   #12
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I usually wear gloves, except I didn't feel like having the caliper or any of the tools slide around and potentially nick something as I was working. Everything causes cancer nowadays so I'm not really worried about it; if this brake fluid didn't get me then I'm sure someone's catless fumes will
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:01 AM   #13
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great write up - your caliper needs a repaint!
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:45 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach V Matt View Post
Vote for sticky!


Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post

Vote for sticky! (report the post and say STICKY!)
No need to bomb my email inbox with reported posts

Link to this thread has been added to the Brake Supersticky under the maintenance section.
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
great write up - your caliper needs a repaint!
DIY repaint with G2 paint coming soon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby921 View Post
Link to this thread has been added to the Brake Supersticky under the maintenance section.
That was quick..haha.

I'm glad others with benefit.
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Old 01-08-2011, 10:24 PM   #16
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Bump for a question I have!

Any difference between the Brembo seal kit (the ~$90 one) and Subaru P/N 26297FE010? The kit from Subaru retails for $87.50, but can be had for ~$64. Last time I ordered a brake kit from Subaru it came with enough for both sides, just wondering what's going on with this one.
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Any difference between the Brembo seal kit (the ~$90 one) and Subaru P/N 26297FE010? The kit from Subaru retails for $87.50, but can be had for ~$64. Last time I ordered a brake kit from Subaru it came with enough for both sides, just wondering what's going on with this one.
Same kit.
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:29 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tut4u2 View Post
DIY repaint with G2 paint coming soon

Great thread.

Have you posted the paint DIY?
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:01 PM   #19
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Wow $50 and $80 for just a few pieces of rubber?!?! Why is it so expensive
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchOven View Post
Wow $50 and $80 for just a few pieces of rubber?!?! Why is it so expensive
d000000000000000d

it says "Brembo' on it.....and if ya cant afford the price of admission....keep walkin
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
d000000000000000d

it says "Brembo' on it.....and if ya cant afford the price of admission....keep walkin
lol affording it isn't the problem.. its just the fact that you're paying that much for rubber or whatever these things are made of
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tut4u2 View Post
  • If you don't have a small screw driver to get the inner seal out of the caliper and you're worried about scratching the calipers, then you can use a zip tie.
The oldest trick in the book is to use a regular pencil to get the seal out
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:36 PM   #23
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I really had to wrestle with my seals and boots. They were cooked from the previous user, to the point of no longer retaining any properties of rubber but properties more akin to....say steel.
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:31 AM   #24
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So FastWRX's Rebuild kit is actually a centric kit but marked up because its for brembos.

Part number is 143.46018

If you google it, it's not $25 each.
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:40 AM   #25
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Rear is around ~$19/side and front ~$10/side (for Centric 143.46018 and 143.47008). FastWRX is a specialist, you always pay more from specialists. They're also a contributor to this forum, so take that how you want.

Last edited by OrbitalEllipses; 04-18-2011 at 08:36 AM.
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