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Old 10-07-2011, 11:46 PM   #1
florotary
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Default Vibration when Braking

OK a while back when I would step on the brake my steering wheel would vibrate and i could feel vibration in my brake pedal. I changed out my front rotors and pads the issue went away. its been about a month and the problem has come back. Ive done a bunch of searching and everything i read simply says:

1.bad rotors (i have new ones)
2.wheel bearings
3. alignment (car doesnt pull left or right)
4 tire balance (just got brand new tires put on4 days ago)

Am I missing any potential issues? how could i tell if bearings are bad? and if it is the bearings is it better to buy th whole hub assembly or have them pressed in? This issue is driving me nuts. I was so glad when it went away just to come back is irratating. I a suppose to go to Key West next week (not a fun trip this time) and need to get this car driving properly.

Also should I pull my wheel off and wipe down the rotors with brake cleaner and try to rebed them? and advice is greatly appreciated
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Last edited by florotary; 04-08-2012 at 08:02 PM. Reason: wow did i really spell like that
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:49 PM   #2
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You should try to avoid replacing both rotors and pads at the same time. If you must do it, do new rotors on old pads, then add the new pads after bed-in.

That aside, did you do a proper bed-in?
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:52 PM   #3
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I honestly didnt realize that it would do any harm to use new pads with new rotors. I followed the bed in on stoptech website.
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:10 AM   #4
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Is there any black spotting on your rotors? Pulsating brakes generally equals uneven deposits on your rotors, and given the timing of your bed-in procedure... you should try it again.
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:12 AM   #5
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i did notice today on one of my front rotors a spot that was a little darker than the rest of the rotor surface. if it is material any suggestions on getting it off? do i just use brake cleaner? thanks
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florotary View Post
i did notice today on one of my front rotors a spot that was a little darker than the rest of the rotor surface. if it is material any suggestions on getting it off? do i just use brake cleaner? thanks
You won't be able to get it off easily, if it's black cementite. You don't want this. I'm conflicted with Stoptechs bed-in procedure because they want you to hammer the brakes repeatedly w/o cool downs... and it's this craziness that can cause cementite. It's caused by over heating iron.

Double check to make sure, otherwise follow Brembo's bed-in process.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:25 AM   #7
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And if it is cemented what do I do? Do I have to replace the rotor or can it be saved
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florotary View Post
And if it is cemented what do I do? Do I have to replace the rotor or can it be saved
You can get it resurfaced.

*Btw, did you stop the car at anytime while bedding the brakes, like stuck in traffic? Stopping with very hot brakes can lead to deposits which I'm more inclined to believe is the issue.

Last edited by thesmokingman; 10-08-2011 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:15 AM   #9
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No I made sure not to stop after I as done bedding I drove about a mile home so they could cool down a bit before I stopped. Then I let them cool completely
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:37 AM   #10
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Stoptechs procedure is probably written with higher performance vehicles in mind, however it is thurough and has worked for many without problems including myself.

Stopping with hot brakes shouldn't cause any deposits. Holding the brake pedal down while stationary with hot rotors can result in deposits. Just before the wheels stop rolling release the pedal. For AT vehicles, shift to N while slowing to the stop.
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:42 AM   #11
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Guess the first thing I need to do is figure out if I do in fact have deposits on my rotors or if I have another issue
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:56 PM   #12
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No I made sure not to stop after I as done bedding I drove about a mile home so they could cool down a bit before I stopped. Then I let them cool completely
Usually you need to drive around for 10-20 minutes to let the brakes cool down, especially after doing 8-10 hard decelerations. Letting the car sit to cool down is not the way to cool the brakes. The pads most likely deposited material.
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:34 PM   #13
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I'm actually leaning toward the wheel bearings. I can hear a kinda grinding noise from front.
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Old 10-08-2011, 05:45 PM   #14
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ok here are some pics of both front rotors as well as grease that i found. CV boot or wheel bearing?







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Old 10-15-2011, 10:54 AM   #15
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Can rear rotors cause vibration in steering wheel and pedal? Or would only front?
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Old 10-16-2011, 08:14 PM   #16
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I have the same issue only when I tap my brakes it forces the car to turn right.
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:44 PM   #17
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Your CV boot is leaking grease, get it replaced asap and check for damage on the CV joint.
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:17 AM   #18
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Ya I plan on here in another week. I think I'm going to replace the axle. I just gota get some helicoil for my caliper before I take them off.

The vibration is pissing me off.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:32 PM   #19
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Uneven pad deposits - or more correctly an uneven transfer layer is almost certainly the issue.

First thing is to try and re-bed the pads.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:56 PM   #20
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Anything I need to do prior to rebedding them.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:22 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florotary View Post
Anything I need to do prior to rebedding them.
Inspect everything to insure yours and others safety

Choose theproper time/place - the more open road the better
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:20 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXBrakes

Inspect everything to insure yours and others safety

Choose theproper time/place - the more open road the better
Will do. Thanks. I notice that your a vendor as well so I may be contacting you for rear rotors soon
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:41 AM   #23
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everyone should contact me fro brakes



Here is what I do - and will publish soon once i review it to 'idiot proof' it.

1. Insure proper install and brakes function normally. Remember - brakes save your life every time you use them.

2. Warm brakes up by performing some easy to moderate slow downs from normal speeds like what would occur in regular driving. Do no drag brake and do not come to a complete stop.

4. FIND A SAFE PLACE!

3. Perform 6-10 moderately hard stops from at or near highway speed down to about 15 MPH. Do not come to a complete stop. Brake at about 3/4's of threshold without engaging ABS. You will likely smell brake pad on the last 1 or 2 stops and you may get some green fade so be prepared. The goal is to evenly heat the system up enough to heat cycle the rotors, burn off excess pad resins and apply a uniform transfer layer from the pad to the rotor.

4. Cool the brakes by driving at speed for several minutes with minimal use of brakes.

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4. This time brake at or near threshold without engaging ABS. DO NOT come to a complete stop with hot brakes engaged unless it is necessary. You may smell brake pad but fade will be less likely as the pads are already mostly broken in.

After bedding look at your pads and rotors. Expect to see a uniform and fine patina/gray film on the rotor and some white ash on the sides of the pads. This is a general indication of good bedding and you should take a photo or remember what you see.
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:11 PM   #24
florotary
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ok last night i found a nice quiet road to bed them on. When i would go to brake hard it almost sounded like my tires were bouncing. sounds crazy. Ive never heard of anything causing that. I did just get new tires. Could the tires not balanced properly cause that? I dont get a vibration when driving ONLY when braking.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:05 PM   #25
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It looks like you have some serious metal deposits in that grease. Check that CV boot for cracks, and really check it good. Pull those rubber accordions apart hard and look for them. My guess is that you have both CV problems and the bearing is going bad. To check the bearing, grab your wheel when your car is on the ground and push in towards the engine really hard repeatedly to shake the wheel back and forth. Put your weight into it. You should have ZERO movement at the hub. The only movement you will have is from the suspension and tire flex. If you have any weird clunks or if you can feel the bearing give at all, it is bad and needs to be replaced.

When you are shaking it, shake on the vertical plane only, otherwise you will get movement from the tie rods.
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