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Old 08-11-2009, 09:38 PM   #1
boosted lego
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Default cam gear bolts, crank bolt stuck

(working on an ej25) ive been trying to get the cam bolts off to remove the cam gears off and also the crank bolt, so far ive only gotten one cam bolt off (when i use the breaker bar on the cam bolts the timing belt just slips under pressure), ive used an impact gun and breaker bar but nothing is really working, any good tips on how to get them off?
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:22 AM   #2
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Cool Ther is a tool for that

It has 2 finger like things that hold the cam drive from the timing belt, which hold the drive so you can brake the bolt loose. As for the crank bolt I go with the breaker bar on the bolt under the car, and then hit the starter ( don't start it just the shortest hit it will break it loose).
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:05 AM   #3
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what has 2 finger like things that hold the cam gears? and the engine is out of the car so breaking the crank bolt by starting it isnt an option
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:04 AM   #4
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It is not uncommon to have to cut cam bolts off.

I like the starter trick with the crank bolt. Works like a charm.

I don't think this is a drivetrain question.

Phil
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:19 PM   #5
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If you have a junk timing belt you can use it to make a cam holding tool. Cut it, drill a hole about 1 inch from the end and then 5 inches from the end and run a bolt with washers through it to make a loop. Put this loop over one of the idler pulleys and wrap the other part of the belt around that cam, shoving a little extra underneath the belt after a full wrap.

Worst case just remove the cam from the engine and remove the gear in a vice. Ive never had to cut one off.
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:31 AM   #6
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you cant get the cams out without removing the cam gear.
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imaudi View Post
you cant get the cams out without removing the cam gear.
That depends on which side of the motor you are talking about.

I know more about transmissions than I do about motors, but I seem to recall that you can remove the drivers cams with the gears installed, but not the passenger side cams (at least on some of the cars).

Seriously, the easiest way is to cut the head off the cam bolt, pull the gear off, then pull out the rest of the bolt. Replace the bolt with a new OEM one, and call it a day!

Phil
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:27 PM   #8
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I'm going to assume it's DOHC engine. Remove the valve covers. The cams have hex's cast into them. The hex is located close to the cam gears underneith the valve covers. Hold the cam on the hex with the wrench( I' don't remember what size it is) and use a breaker bar on the cam bolt. You'll need to figure out a cheater bar for the wrench. I have a peice of oval shaped tube that I use. This useally works for me. If you strip out the cam bolt head just drill it out and there should be enough shank to get a vise grips on and remove the theaded section. Just drill enough to break off the head!
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:30 PM   #9
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For the pulley bolt I have an old section of timing belt that I use to wrap around it. I then use a wrench to grip it. Works for me every time. When you re-install the bolt don't forget to apply engine oil on the threads and seat.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSolbergfan View Post
I'm going to assume it's DOHC engine. Remove the valve covers. The cams have hex's cast into them. The hex is located close to the cam gears underneith the valve covers. Hold the cam on the hex with the wrench( I' don't remember what size it is) and use a breaker bar on the cam bolt. You'll need to figure out a cheater bar for the wrench. I have a peice of oval shaped tube that I use. This useally works for me. If you strip out the cam bolt head just drill it out and there should be enough shank to get a vise grips on and remove the theaded section. Just drill enough to break off the head!
Do you need to remove the motor to drill out the bolt? how do you get enough room for that? please explain im in this situation right now and this is my daily driver and if i need to pull the motor i will but i really dont want to have to.
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Old 11-20-2010, 04:40 PM   #11
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Depends on what kind of drill you have. More than likely, you'll need to pull the motor to do this correctly. You're going to have to step up to a 1/2" drill bit....and the bolts are hardened. Last time I did this on an 06 WRX motor, we went through 3 or 4 bits....just burning them up.
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:08 PM   #12
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If you have the motor out of the car, just have somebody stick a crowbar or something similar into the flywheel to keep the crankshaft from moving. That's how I got my crank sprocket out when I noticed the key notch thing was all chewed up. (This took like 2 hours of wiggling and spinning to get it out)

If the motor is in the car, put it in gear and have someone on the brakes just in case. It's pretty hard to spin the engine when it's in gear and someone is on the brakes.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
Depends on what kind of drill you have. More than likely, you'll need to pull the motor to do this correctly. You're going to have to step up to a 1/2" drill bit....and the bolts are hardened. Last time I did this on an 06 WRX motor, we went through 3 or 4 bits....just burning them up.
Well i ended up dremeling the head of the bolt off. took about 1 1/2 hours and all my cutting bits but its off... also was wondering is there is any common oil leaks on wrx. i have oil going onto my timingbelt but i see oil at one of the cam shaft seals as well as around the tensioner... im replacing the camshaft seals and if anything ill jsut take it all apart. just wondering for heads up on what to look for.
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Old 11-21-2010, 12:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkachabull View Post
Well i ended up dremeling the head of the bolt off. took about 1 1/2 hours and all my cutting bits but its off... also was wondering is there is any common oil leaks on wrx. i have oil going onto my timingbelt but i see oil at one of the cam shaft seals as well as around the tensioner... im replacing the camshaft seals and if anything ill jsut take it all apart. just wondering for heads up on what to look for.
Hey, you thought to buy some replacement bolts, right?

Common leak spots would be the cam seals and the front crank seal. Since you see oil residue behind the tensioner, I would suspect the piston pin acess cover or the tensioner itself, but you won't know until you take things apart to find the source.

Jay
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:33 AM   #15
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You want these. They make removing those bolts much easier.

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Old 04-05-2011, 01:54 PM   #16
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Oo0, where at and how much?
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:11 PM   #17
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Hmmm I need too lol
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Old 03-23-2018, 06:10 PM   #18
easy fix
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Default Cam And Crank Removal Videos. Easy!

Hi! Here are two awesome videos that will help out! ~shaun

Crank Pulley Removal:

Cam Sprocket Bolt Removal:
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy fix View Post
Hi! Here are two awesome videos that will help out! ~shaun

Crank Pulley Removal:
https://youtu.be/dWKbSp5F9ik

Cam Sprocket Bolt Removal:
https://youtu.be/vd9YeLGABJk
Interesting way to do it, thanks for the video. I would think you could use this to torque the bolts up again when installing the cam gears.

Note, if clamping a timing belt like that, I would likely NOT use it on an engine again. Maybe keep an old belt around just for this task.
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Old 03-25-2018, 09:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Interesting way to do it, thanks for the video. I would think you could use this to torque the bolts up again when installing the cam gears.

Note, if clamping a timing belt like that, I would likely NOT use it on an engine again. Maybe keep an old belt around just for this task.
C3: (if you don't mind the abbreviation) I wouldn't waste my time with this guy. He has a new profile, his ONLY posts are digging up really old threads to promote his YouTube videos.
As a Suby Master I do have to advise against his methods...
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbert Bass View Post
C3: (if you don't mind the abbreviation) I wouldn't waste my time with this guy. He has a new profile, his ONLY posts are digging up really old threads to promote his YouTube videos.
As a Suby Master I do have to advise against his methods...
NP on the shorthand.
I hope I made my point on NOT using that belt after doing his method.

I have no real issue with the method, just DON'T use that belt again as a timing belt, especially on an interference engine.

No, I did not add my
same post to ALL his bumped threads. Just the major ones (mostly discounting regional and a couple others).
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Old 03-25-2018, 03:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
NP on the shorthand.
I hope I made my point on NOT using that belt after doing his method.

I have no real issue with the method, just DON'T use that belt again as a timing belt, especially on an interference engine.

No, I did not add my
same post to ALL his bumped threads. Just the major ones (mostly discounting regional and a couple others).
I take issue with folks that only create profiles and posts in order to generate clicks.
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:37 PM   #23
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The video makes it clear that it was the old belt used for this method. I commented on it in a more relevant forum as this has nothing to do with the transmission.

This dude cross-posted on about 8 different forums, probably in an effort to boost his post count before scamming someone on the buy/sell/trade forum.
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