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08-20-2010, 09:15 PM | #1 |
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DIY - $15 Rally Light Bar
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. . EDIT: The ORIGINAL diy is now in post #17. After getting feedback from members, visiting a few suggested links, and adding in some of my own new ideas I completely changed the bar and it still costs less than $20. NEW vs OLD Supplies (all bought at Home Depot) 1 - 3' long x 1 1/4" wide steel bar $4.50 1 - 3' long x 3/4" square aluminum tube $10.50 1 - can of spray paint $3.00 2 - 1 3/4" u bolt $1.00 Total - $19.00 Steps This is a simple project that only requires simple tools. I have already written the DIY steps for my old light bar (moved to post #17) so I am not going into any depth on this one. I will let the pictures do the talking since this thread is pretty much meant to be used for ideas (but my idea is the BEST because it is 100% rocksolid, cheap, light, and doesn't require a welder). Then just paint the aluminum tube and bolt it all together. DONE!
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Last edited by Lspade; 09-24-2010 at 01:22 AM. |
08-20-2010, 09:43 PM | #2 |
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Hit a bump and those will wobble like crazy I'm sure of it.
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08-20-2010, 09:47 PM | #3 |
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I had the same construction design on an RS. It would hold, but once you apply pressure to the light, bracket didn't feel firm at all.
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08-20-2010, 09:48 PM | #4 |
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I like that, very innovative. ^ pheonix you might be right but he has the little support on the bottom and the two brackets attached to the radiator. i just think it might one more support on each side on the bottom and you should be golden. that looks good i dont think i could do this with my grill though. looks nice for the OEM.
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08-20-2010, 09:49 PM | #5 |
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08-21-2010, 12:04 AM | #6 |
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Interesting.
I like. |
08-21-2010, 12:18 AM | #7 |
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Slightly yes. When I drive offroad you can see the light vibrate a little but it definitely isn't enough to cause a distraction. The reason why it doesn't vibrate much is because the little bent piece of metal in picture 3 pushes the middle of the light bar up about 1 1/2" above the bar's normal resting position which keeps it very tight.
BUT, if you are on a very strict budget like me I don't think you will find a better solution to light up your night. |
08-28-2010, 02:03 AM | #8 |
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nice thread bro... congrats on the lightbar mock up thanks for shareing ... Im tryin to construct somethin... after installin my fmic kit ... thinkin of what to make.. :-p
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08-28-2010, 09:20 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
His: Mine: (getting ready for paint) On the car: Cost me about $25 and I had a lot of scrap left over. No shake, survived being backed into in a parking lot. |
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08-28-2010, 10:18 AM | #10 |
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looks good nice cheap diy
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08-28-2010, 10:21 AM | #11 |
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I'm gonna find a welder and build me a "carl bar." That's fantastic!
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08-28-2010, 05:58 PM | #12 |
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AWESOME. I like that. At first I was going to say that mine can be made without a welder but after giving this one a second look over I'm sure you cold replace most of those welds with a hole&bolt. Thanks man.
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08-30-2010, 08:04 AM | #13 |
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Don't see any reason why you couldn't, but frankly if you cut, bended, and prepped all the parts I'm sure you could find someone at an exhaust shop that would weld it up for you for a $20
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08-30-2010, 09:09 AM | #14 |
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How do you guys keep the pipe from rusting inside-out? Do you just stick the tip of a spray paint can in one of the ends and let her rip?
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08-30-2010, 09:22 AM | #15 | |
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And yes, some rust builds up on the inside. If I was doing it over again I would try to get paint on the inside and use some RTV sealant on the bolt holes to keep crap out. But honestly I'm pretty sure it'll be years before the bar rusts enough to damage it structurally. I have also had to repaint it 3x in two years of use. I would recomend that any bar you make gets painted with the toughest stuff you can find (grill paint? Truck bed liner?) Rock chips are a bitch. If anyone is looking for lightbar ideas I would check out this thread on DI: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=2926 |
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08-30-2010, 09:59 AM | #16 | |
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AND THANK YOU FOR THE LINK. It is jam packed with awesome ideas. |
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09-24-2010, 12:43 AM | #17 |
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EDIT: THIS IS THE ORIGINAL POST.
(This will work with any of the smaller after market lights that use a bolt and nut on the bottom to hold them in place.) Parts Needed (I bought all of these at Home Depot) Two 3' x 1 1/4" Non Coated Steel Bars - $4.42 each Two 3/4" U bolts - $.97 each One Can of Spray Paint - $3.92 Tools Needed Jigsaw with metal cutting blades (A hack saw will even work!) Hand Drill with drill bits suitable for metal Table Vise Set of Wrenches Skinny Flat Head Screw Driver Tape Measure Pictures 1 2 3 Steps (I am going to assume that anyone tackling this job is good with tools, can be creative when they are met with a small problem, and can do most of this work just by looking at the pictures. I am only writing down the major steps so that you guys have a guideline) The light bar is held up by the two radiator bolts (you can see one of these bolts in picture 2), two U bolts (arrow 2 in picture 2), and one small piece of metal in the middle (picture 3). 1. Cut one of the steel bars in half. 2. Take one half and drill a hole big enough for the radiator bolt 1" from the top of the bar. 3. Remove the black plastic grill that has the Subaru Emblem on it (there are hidden tabs that you must reach with the flat head screw driver) 4. This is the most time consuming part. Using the table vise and your muscles bend the bar into an S shape (view picture 1). This is pretty much just bending and fitting over and over again until you are satisfied with the shape. (You may have to cut into the corner of your grill a little bit to have a perfect fit. See arrow 1 in picture 2) 5. When the bar rests firmly on the bottom of the lowest and outermost hole of the plastic grill make an exact replica of this half with the other half of your steel bar. 6. Install them both with the grill and if you are satisfied take off the grill and drill a hole on each one that leads right through the sheet metal located about an inch below them. This is where you will install your U bolt. 7. Install the grill and mark where you need to drill a hole for the U bolt to pass through. 8. Drill that hole and install your U bolts. 9. The two halves will extend far past the bumper. Cut off the ends until they are shorter than your bumper. 10. Measure the distance between these two ends. 11. Cut the other 3' piece of steel to the distance measured. 12. Drill a hole in both ends of this piece of metal and in the end of both of the S shaped halves. 13. Install your lights into the holes you just drilled and tighten them down to hold the flat bar in place. 14. Drill more holes in the bar for more lights. 15. If you add more lights add a little strength to the bar like in picture 3. 16. Paint it. 17. You now have a homemade light bar for $15! |
09-24-2010, 12:55 AM | #18 |
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if it works....it works. Just makes me LOL a bit to say there is a super strict budget when people are running $150 or so in accessory lighting that will largely remain unused
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09-24-2010, 09:08 AM | #19 |
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Ya but, don't you have two huge lights on your car? Cuz I'm pretty sure I got the idea for doodling faces on my light covers from a picture of your car... And you are correct, I paid about $140 total for my lights but instead of buying a light bar for $200+ I saved that money buy making my own.
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09-24-2010, 09:38 AM | #20 | |
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Quote:
2. I wish I only had $150 worth of lights 3. They are worth it, the one time they save you from a deer or an oak tree it turns into a good investment. |
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09-24-2010, 09:43 AM | #21 |
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09-24-2010, 09:54 AM | #22 |
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Well I'm in the process of upgrading to a lightpod w/PIAA's... $150 wouldn't buy me one light.
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09-24-2010, 09:59 AM | #23 |
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09-24-2010, 12:51 PM | #24 |
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can you throw up so more after pics with the new light bar seems like a fun weekend project haha
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11-17-2012, 08:56 AM | #25 |
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Bump for being a great thread! I am doing this FO SHO!
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