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Old 11-12-2009, 03:12 AM   #26
Timon_479
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I looked way into the F1 Racing clutches and they're too sketchy for me. They are hit and miss. Either it'll work perfectly after the initial break in and last the usual clutch length depending how much you beat it, or it'll fall apart (in some cases I've heard it literally) during or within a few hundred after the break in.

I put an OEM Exedy in my MR2 last February, and the same for my WRX less than a week ago. So far I love them both.
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:21 AM   #27
darrius024
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well i am at about 500 on the clutch out of about 750 break in. some of the shudders are going away, it does seems a bit more grippy, with oem i could almost cruise out of standstill by slowly letting off the clutch (the car would start to move a lil with minimum to no shakes), with the F1 it sounds like the shudders are happening because instead of slipping in, it is trying to grab and engage so it rumbles alot... i think a safe assumption is that that is hard or bad on the clutch especially in break in time, so no gradual clutch engaging for me, works perfectly if i just rev-realease clutch-go so i will stick to it and keep posting my thoughts as i go.

as for the guy who had a stage 4 or something clutch that was slipping.... when i pulled my clutch out of the box, i noticed the pressure plate was painted pretty blue. when i flipped it over to see the machined side, i noticed some of that fancy HP adding paint was on it. my buddy who was helping me noticed and pretty much said, get that shi!! off of there, he said that it could lead to glazing over your friction disc and pressure plate and lead to a number of problems. some simple brake cleaner and paint was off and i was on my way. i might be hating these clutches already if i left that little bit of paint on the critical surface.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:29 PM   #28
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no i tried there stage 2 clutch on my stage 4 modded wrx, the shudder gets better till you lay on it and get it hot then itll come back with a vengance. naturally as a mechanic i checkum, but my cheap side got me to try f1 out. as for the exedy stage 1 it is very grippy i stalled lots of times after i put it in but after it warms up abit it gets better but doesnt go away, that would be hard on the tranny if you try to launch without slippin it in though so for anybody whos only lightly modded i would stay with stock replacment. just my opinion
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:46 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polish man View Post
no i tried there stage 2 clutch on my stage 4 modded wrx, the shudder gets better till you lay on it and get it hot then itll come back with a vengance. naturally as a mechanic i checkum, but my cheap side got me to try f1 out. as for the exedy stage 1 it is very grippy i stalled lots of times after i put it in but after it warms up abit it gets better but doesnt go away, that would be hard on the tranny if you try to launch without slippin it in though so for anybody whos only lightly modded i would stay with stock replacment. just my opinion

sweet man, +1 for checking you stuff, i just know some people accidently overlook some things, not to say you did, obviously you checked then, just thought i would say, i just thought its kinda messed up they would even ship that to me with the paint on it like that but oh well i got er fixed up, and to tear apart the tranny and replace as many things as i did and be able to put it all back together and everything work properly it a sense of accomplishment.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:56 PM   #30
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yea hopfully you got a good one, i work on diesels wit the nice 20" clutches and there a bitch to do the 1st time so i always give a clutch a good lookin over. but it wasnt to nice to do my wrx 2wice either
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:19 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polish man View Post
yea hopfully you got a good one, i work on diesels wit the nice 20" clutches and there a bitch to do the 1st time so i always give a clutch a good lookin over. but it wasnt to nice to do my wrx 2wice either
lol, i design crane systems and was at a meeting the other day for hagglunds drives, they were explaining how their drives produce a lil over 100 hp and maybe 2,000+ tourque. i kinda thought maybe i should swap out my 2.0 for a hagglunds rotary drive crane motor. i think i would have to modify motor mounts, transfer case and get a solid 6+" thick steel rod for the drive shafts to hold the torque hahaha . joking these drives go 0-100% power instantly and dont run very fast, so it would be 0-40 or so in under a second but thats top speed. i will keep dreaming up of a gear system to make it work
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:24 PM   #32
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if you could come up with a trans for it and a speed controller of some sort maby
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:10 AM   #33
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as for the F1 clutch it is garbage mine lasted 9000 miles and i thought i was buying an act clutch but no it is an act pressure plate with the F1 disk and it destroyed my flywheel which was also an F1 racing piece of crap, you get what you pay for.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:44 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofordkid95 View Post
as for the F1 clutch it is garbage mine lasted 9000 miles and i thought i was buying an act clutch but no it is an act pressure plate with the F1 disk and it destroyed my flywheel which was also an F1 racing piece of crap, you get what you pay for.
sorry to hear that, i have the stock flywheel still, i am iffy about buying aftermarket flywheels, i dont think i want one, maybe a slight lighter than stock but not way lightweight. i am at 750+ miles on my f1 stage one clutch and it is runing ok. it still shudders here and there which is annoying, hopefully it wears to the flywheel better as time goes on. good thing i kept the stock exedy clutch which is near new condition in case i need it. thats wierd that you thought you were getting ACT, i heard and read that F1 is distro of exedy, and in fact i got an exedy friction disk with my stage1 kit. not sure what the pressure plate is, looked the same as the exedy one i took off but only new and painted blue. all and all so far, this clutch is doing its job (not better or worse than stock) and shudders are progressivly going away (probably due to break in period being up) and i am overall satisfied for a 200.00 clutch. now 9000 down the road when this thing starts going out then i will be a little angry, but then i will put old stocker back on what did you replace the crappy stuff with, what clutch is working better for you? curious cause maybe i will just switch over after 9,000 miles, or i will plan on having the new clutch by 9000 weather mine is out or not
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:46 PM   #35
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lol

clutch cost: $200
miles gotten out of clutch: 9,000
cost per mile of clutching: .222222 or 22 cents per mile
food for though
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:28 PM   #36
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well just a little update, i was dumb enough to not write down my mileage, but i think i am at approx. 5000 - 8000 miles lol. the clutch is holding up great, in my opinion a great buy for 200.00, and if you go on ebay and offer less than 200 they will most likely accept it. the clutch has worked great so far, no more shuddering, no slipping, pretty solid so far. installation takes some attention to make sure you keep the friction disc clean and pressure plate clean while installing to ensure proper operation after installing.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:54 AM   #37
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thanks for the update.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourcandy View Post
thanks for the update.

yeah no problem, but one thing i should throw out there, this is the stage 1 clutch i used which is pretty much the oem exedy friction disc (says exedy right on it) and i assume an aftermarket or rebuilt pressure plate if they can rebuild, the only difference from one pressure plate to the other is the color, looks like they painted blue, which some paint was on the machined surface, if you dont get that off it could potentially cause glazing so inspect inspect inspect, then install.

also i have heard on the higher "quality" clutches they sell, like stage 2 or 3 or whatever, everythign i have heard is that they suck bad, when you invest in all of that power to require a higher grade clutch, dont cheap out with f1, they are not very good for big power, this is only my experience with the stage 1 basic oem replacement, and has served me well for cheap for about 4 months now. i have also heard all of these clutches wear fast so i will keep updating whenever it wears out.

Last edited by darrius024; 02-10-2010 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:22 PM   #39
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Over on RS25, I started a post where I am documenting a F1 Racing Stage 3 clutch kit. So far I have 300+ miles and all is well.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t12720...orce-ebay.html
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:27 PM   #40
subarumafia700
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hey i actually just bought a f1 stage 2 clutch kit, pull style, im using it and a f1 chrome molly light weight flywheel in my 91 turbo tranny but i gotta find some bearings or rebuild kit for the tranny...can anyone tell me if ill have luck finding such thing? PM please
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:22 PM   #41
darrius024
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Originally Posted by 2milehi View Post
Over on RS25, I started a post where I am documenting a F1 Racing Stage 3 clutch kit. So far I have 300+ miles and all is well.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t12720...orce-ebay.html

thanks for the link, there are alot of mixed emotions on these clutches, whatever it is, they could fail for numerous reasons. mine is still holding up, and thanks for the info on one of the higher grade clutches. my first hand experience is good.....so far, i suppose we will see how many miles i get before this thing fails.

as for the rebuild kit for a tranny, try subaruparts.com that is where i got all of my tranny stuff, but it looks up cars for stock parts, so you want to enter the car that the tranny came stock on, and make sure the parts will fit your tranny code, calling them may help vs. just ordering online. i believe it is bruce titus subaru in northeast washington, cheapest place i have found oem parts for subaru

oh yeah, you need an account to find parts there too, it is free for account. shipping is sometimes long but for cheap parts its worth it in my mind. also rather than rebuild kit, i just bought everything weather i needed it or not, there is no way to tell what to replace till you crack the tranny. but for a rebuild kit when nothing is broke im assuming syncros and bearings????? maybe oil seal, depends what all you want to replace, could buy everything but gears even

good luck on your rebuild!!!
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:41 PM   #42
subarumafia700
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hey thanks for the info, good to know because i can get factory parts at their cost haha.
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:46 PM   #43
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Running a stage 3 as-well with no issues !
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:17 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
The PUSH clutches they sell for the RS are junk...
I suppose that is a vote against using them...LOL

Last edited by HillbillyLes; 08-12-2010 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:56 PM   #45
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I had the stage 2. Pedal pressure was soft, shuddered mininal. Pedal drooped down when I took the engine high in the rpm band. normal slipping of the clutch in first gear gave the worst clutch smell. Like someone learning how to drive a stick for the first time and letting the pedal out at 5k rpm.

All the problems went away though... after I put a stock clutch back in. including the pedal drooping, which I thought was hydraulic, but wasn't.

Art at gripforce also told me since I had a stock engine, it could not properly break in the stage 2 clutch. This was my main problem. He then tried to tell me it's like racing vs. stock brakes. racing brakes have to be warmed up to work properly and the stage 2 clutch is basically the same way, and uses some of the same materials.
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:12 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22psiSTI View Post
Art at gripforce also told me since I had a stock engine, it could not properly break in the stage 2 clutch. This was my main problem. He then tried to tell me it's like racing vs. stock brakes. racing brakes have to be warmed up to work properly and the stage 2 clutch is basically the same way, and uses some of the same materials.


Did he offer a hit on his crack-pipe with that explanation??
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:11 PM   #47
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got the f1 stage 3 and chrome alloy FW 1400 km or 900miles subaru dealer installed
it shudders on engagement some times not at all some times extreamly bad depending on how much i slip it but its never consistant its a ****ty feeling.... i hope it will work its self out but it was like that from the day it went in
im asumeing its just real sticky and grabs and slips real fast to cause it but im no expert
what u guys think ?? ill keep posting after a cupple more k gona be puting another 400 k on it wed and prolly another 300k friday
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:29 PM   #48
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well about 3 years ago i paid like 450 for clutch pressure plate and lighter fly today im tearing it down replaces my oem with this f1 stage(3 i think ) ill post pics tomorrow if u guys want. Drove it like crazy bumper to bumper shutter a lot, got a good 50,000 miles out of it did get that weak clutch feeling after beating on it. On my book i give it a 7
O and i had no power mods i thinking of buying a stage 2 this time but don't know
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:22 PM   #49
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good to hear it lasted that long i put my 400 k on there no improvment on shudder i guess thats how they are... i guess its ment to be droped heavy not featherd thats not the way i wana drive my car.......all the time haha gotta have fun once and a while altho i fear the second gear will be eatin clean off with a quick shift
cant down shift to first anymore always grinds even with rev match i usedto beable to do it b4 i got that clutch anyone els have problems down shifting to first...
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:07 PM   #50
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bump for cheap stage 1 clutches, i have heard some bad about the stage 2 and so on, but this is just a stock clutch replacement and i am very happy. add some horsies under the hood and i would chose a different company, just my opinion! hope this old thread helped someone
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