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Old 09-01-2000, 03:27 PM   #1
wistful
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Java Black Pearl

Post i wish i could do an oil change,, but

the drain pan screw has fused itself to the oil pan. I tried it when the engine's cold, and I still can't get it off. Am I just weak? or what should I do?

Don
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Old 09-01-2000, 03:35 PM   #2
BrianR
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Smile

You know I have that problem everytime I do an oil change, so you're not alone. Trying getting a bigger bar and the end of the handle to get it off.

BrianR
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Old 09-01-2000, 03:38 PM   #3
RallySport
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Post

The first time my RS got an oil change I had to put the car on blocks to get more levarage. The screw was super tough to get off! When I put it back on I left it really loose in comparison, no problems yet...

Just make sure you get a well fitted wrench so you don't strip it, otherwise, it might as well be fused on!

Good Luck!
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Old 09-01-2000, 03:38 PM   #4
Metallurgist
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Have a Nice Day?

If it is your first oil change this is not uncommon. If not, get the washers from your dealer ($.65 EA) and don't tighten the drain plug down so much... it isn't going anywhere. As a general rule of thumb only tighten it as tight as you can with your hand at the head of the socket wrench.

-p
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Old 09-01-2000, 04:05 PM   #5
HomerJay
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I used a hammer to knock it off the first time. Now I have a futomovalve so I never have to bust my knuckles getting the damn thing off! Best $22 buck I spent. And they are considered SOA.
www.fumotovalve.com

[This message has been edited by HomerJay (edited September 01, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by HomerJay (edited September 01, 2000).]
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Old 09-01-2000, 04:10 PM   #6
8Complex

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Post

I got one of the oil drain valves as well and it works fantastic! No leaks, no problems, and oil changes in < 5 mins!
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Old 09-01-2000, 05:39 PM   #7
bluesubie
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Wink

I had the same problem recently. I did a search here and I also wacked a box end wrench with a hammer. Piece of cake. Think I'll have to get the fumoto too.
Dennis
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Old 09-01-2000, 05:41 PM   #8
jdankovich
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Hey that drain sounds like something I need. My drain bolt also takes a lot of leverage to loosen. My biggest problem, however, is that once the bolt is off, the oil comes out faster than my drain funnel can handle. Oil winds up on the parking lot and out comes the kitty litter!

 
Old 09-01-2000, 06:03 PM   #9
munkis
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Post

I like being a tech, I get to use my lift hehehe. No problems with getting my drain plug loose. Try getting a longer wrench or put a piece of pipe longer then the wrench over the wrench for more leverage.
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Old 09-01-2000, 10:37 PM   #10
Fitz
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Post

Subaru paints/undercoats their cars after everything is assembled... so...what you're trying to do isn't just loosen a bolt, you're breaking the layer of paint that has cured around the edge as well.

Fitz
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Old 09-01-2000, 10:55 PM   #11
wistful
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Post

holy Cow. No wonder. I tried and tried and as hard as I could, the damn bolt wouldn't budge. Good Lord!!

Don

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Old 09-09-2000, 04:10 PM   #12
Peaty
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Got one of those Engine Oil Drain Valves from Fumoto for each of my Soobies. I installed one of them today. They are very handy. It will make oil changing a snap. I've got some closeup pics for anyone interested. E-mail me direct,the zip is small.

Peaty

Thanks Homerjay
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Old 09-09-2000, 04:58 PM   #13
HomerJay
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No Problemo! It's great to take engine oil samples from to and I manage to stay cleaner and not use as many rags! Most importantly, you never have to buy those blasted nylon washers again!
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Old 09-09-2000, 06:05 PM   #14
slamck
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Question

I have a front skid plate installed. Anyone knows if the fumotovalue fits with the skid plate?
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Old 09-09-2000, 06:22 PM   #15
Peaty
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Arrow

Which skid plate do you have? I have a pic of the valve on the OEM one for the legacy and I'm waiting on my plate from Draken. I don't think there will be a problem with it fittin, but I can report back.

If you want I can measure how much it will stick out. Do you want one with the nipple or the regular one (why does that sound dirty?)

Peaty

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Old 09-09-2000, 07:51 PM   #16
Deznuts05
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I don't knoa about you guys but isn't the first oil change on the house...???
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Old 09-09-2000, 09:35 PM   #17
P.K. Motorsports
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Thumbs down

So what if it's on the house?? I still wouldn't let them touch my car. I'm sure we could spend days having everyone relate all the horror stories about what happens when lube shops / dealers / anyone who is being paid by the hour do oil changes, but let's just say that I threw that coupon away.

It is quite possible to strip the threads in a drain pan. You really need a torque wrench to do to job right. The torque spec on the drain plug is only ~28 ft-lb. This is about as tight as I can possibly get it with a small 1/4" ratchet.

I'd be worried about one of those drain valves developing a leak. Tightened correctly, with a fresh crush washer, the drain plug will never leak.
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Old 09-10-2000, 06:15 AM   #18
Peaty
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Thumbs up

Had one on a previous car and it never leaked on me. HomerJay, ever have a problem?
The quality on these are very top notch. Plus they are approved by Subaru. Check out the link.

Peaty

[This message has been edited by Peaty (edited September 10, 2000).]
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Old 09-10-2000, 07:52 AM   #19
Fred Zaplitny
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Post

If you use the stock drain plug, get the drain plug crush washers from the dealer. When you tighten the plug back up, just tighten the plug so that the crush washer is fully crushed and then stop. You can feel it crushing. This is an ingenius way to make sure you don't overtighten the plug. Also at your next change you will notice a bit of effort to brake the plug loose (a standard 3/8" drive ratchet is all you'll need), then the plug is loose enough to get with your fingers. I read about some people re-using the washers. IMO DON'T DO THAT!! These washers are CHEAP only a couple bucks for a bag of 4 or 5 at the dealership. They are cheap insurance that you tighten your drain plug just enough. I've done all 5 oil changes on my car and the only time I had a leak was the first time when I tried using a universal drain plug washer from Pep Boys because I couldn't be bothered to go all the way to the Subaru dealership. So I did two first oil changes and will never make that mistake again!

Fred

Edit:
HomerJay,
What nylon washer? The washers I got are some kind of alloy. Were you using an aftermarket washer or something?

[This message has been edited by Fred Zaplitny (edited September 10, 2000).]
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Old 09-10-2000, 09:40 AM   #20
RidinLow
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Post

I changed the oil on 2 Hondas, & I reused the washers on both of them because they weren't a crush-type. I always replace the one on my RS, although the factory had forgotten to put one on when I took delivery of the car.
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Old 09-10-2000, 03:55 PM   #21
HomerJay
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Cool

Sorry Fred I meant crush washers! Hey Slamck , I have the Primitive front and it's not a problems.
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Old 09-10-2000, 04:35 PM   #22
Sunrise City Rider
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Post

Too bad that I can't use the valve because I have a Oil Temperature sensor there and my nut is 22 mm!!!
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Old 09-10-2000, 08:28 PM   #23
STORER
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Talking

The first time you remove the oil plug is always a pain. If you can not remove it with a box end wrench and a hammer, try to heat the area of the oil pan around the drain plug with a propane torch while keeping the plug cool. This allows the hole to expand while plug stays the same size. Don't over do it with the heat.
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Old 09-10-2000, 08:54 PM   #24
slamck
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'03 LLBean, '05 B4

Post

Yeah, I have the Primitive front skid plate also. I am going to order the Fumoto plug oline for both my RS and Outback

Now, if someone tell me how to change the oil filter without making a mesh...
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Old 09-10-2000, 08:55 PM   #25
slamck
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Post

oops, I mean a mess...
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