Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday March 30, 2024
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-31-2011, 05:50 PM   #1
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT
06 STi Wide Body Wagon

Default Tricks of the "trade" (group effort)

I wanted to start a thread that would hopefully develop into a community effort with people participating and sharing tricks of the "trade" when it comes to engine building.

I don't really expect the shops that pay their bills by selling you engines will readily come in and share their tricks of the "trade", but if they are so inclined, I think we all would welcome the participation!!!

Please keep replies to each post limited to ways to improve the process if you have a better way. Just replying with "thanks, that is awesome, I was wondering how to do that" will just make it harder to find the "tricks".

It would be nice if this was a reference we could all draw from without having to search through dozens of pages of nonsense to find the gold.

I will update the thread occasionally with more tricks, but more importantly, I will try to index it for easy reference Like the link below:

Case Dowel Extraction
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by Team Scream; 12-31-2011 at 07:57 PM. Reason: title change
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 12-31-2011, 05:50 PM   #2
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT
06 STi Wide Body Wagon

Default

Anyway, I will start it off, with a trick I learned a long time ago building motorcycle engines, but it transitions nicely into the EJ world, so here ya go:

REMOVING CASE AND HEAD DOWELS

These things can be a pain in the A$$ sometimes, and I have actually seen machine shop employees just grab these things with vice grips and start twisting. That usually ends up with heavily scarred dowels that are all but usable when they are done.

I think the case dowels are the most important ones to keep as pristine as you can because their condition will greatly affect your ability to get the cases together nicely when building your engine, and will definitely dictate how hard the cases come apart when it is time to refresh the engine.

With that in mind, here is the "trick":

These are the case dowels I am referencing:




Using a 10mm x 1.25 tap, you just run the tap down into the dowell. No need to drill, the hole is perfect for 10mm x 1.25 - Use WD-40 as cutting oil





As you can see, the threads are perfect





Next, you will want to use a washer or spacer to protect the case parting line. I have a nice aluminum "washer" that fits perfect





Next, get your "stack" together, which in my case is a 3/4" drive short 17mm socket (placed upside down so the dowel has a cavity to extract into), another thick spacer (a few washers will suffice) and a 10mm x 1.25 socket head bolt, and my T-handle allen wrench (USE ANTI SEIZE on the threads to prevent binding), and start twisting






The dowel will be pulled nicely out of the case half! You may have to stop half way, unthread everything and add a couple more washers to the stack to get full extraction, but this is the easiest way to pull these dowels out sans having a special tool. EVERYONE should have a 10mm x 1.25 tap if you work on these engines.







Lets see your Trick of the "Trade" !!!!

Last edited by Team Scream; 12-31-2011 at 07:54 PM.
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2011, 06:30 PM   #3
NSFW
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 140444
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Near Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
05 Stage Free LGT
ATP 3076, 6MT, AVO FMIC

Default

Neat trick.
NSFW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2011, 06:38 PM   #4
Crazykev
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 93667
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnati,Oh
Vehicle:
'03 Build'n a 2.12L
331whp/331wtq

Default

Sweet, I'll be doin' this soon.
Crazykev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #5
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Scream View Post

It would be nice if this was a reference we could all draw from without having to search through dozens of pages of nonsense to find the gold.
I figured I would bump this thread as the above is exactly what I have been doing for "fun" lately

So "thanks, that is awesome, I was wondering how to do that".

But seriously, while I do not have many of my own tricks yet, I would like to request one. What do you guys use to remove RTV and other crap from threads? Do you use a wire brush and a solvent or cleaner, or a tap or thread chaser? While this may not qualify as a trick, I am sure there is an easier way than I am using!
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 08:05 PM   #6
Bad Noodle
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 174442
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NNJ
Vehicle:
2007 SuperWagon
I don't spell well

Default

Here's how I found my ring gaps and ground the rings:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...light=ring+gap

I'd say good for a home build but too much work for a pro
Bad Noodle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 08:23 PM   #7
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2017 Forester XT
Prodigal STi 600whp

Default

My trick for pulling wrist pins out:

I just use one of the rubber covered handles on my big pliers to shove into the center of the pin... it grips it pretty well and pulls the pin out really easy (assuming you don't have stuck pins).

SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 12:56 AM   #8
SoCal_Scooby
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 210777
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Laguna Niguel
Vehicle:
..
Don't worry bout' it Brah

Default

Any tricks to picking the correct main bearing and rod bearing sizes?
SoCal_Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 03:56 AM   #9
spoolinsti05
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Oneonta, NY
Vehicle:
2005 WRX STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal_Scooby
Any tricks to picking the correct main bearing and rod bearing sizes?
Plasti gauge or mic the ones you have. If you mic you need to measure three areas bearing crack and block if its ben line honed. It's easier then plasti gauge, since you will have exact tolerances.

Check clearances with oil or assembly lube to substitute oil. Those aren't tricks lol.

You can remove the transmission and rear diff and leave the axles in the hubs that's a trick of mine I've learned.

Cant seat transmission? Checked everything? Try turning the motor over while having someone push in on the trans. Sometimes the splines wont line up perfect.

Battery can stay in while changing plugs.

*Fill your oil filter before you install it.* I've always done this on everything some cars you can only add so much. Some is better then non on start up.

pb blaster and big end channel lock pliers works great on exhaust hangers. Especially the heavy duty pita ones.

If I think of anything else I'll post it.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 11:21 AM   #10
squarebush
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 173656
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashua NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
You can remove the transmission and rear diff and leave the axles in the hubs that's a trick of mine I've learned.
Im trying to pull an engine and trans together, and the axles are giving me problems. How do you get them to seperate from the trans once you have the entire assembly in the air?

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Cant seat transmission? Checked everything? Try turning the motor over while having someone push in on the trans. Sometimes the splines wont line up perfect.
I have learned an easy trick for aligning the splines. once you get the engine close, and make sure the angles are right, the engine cant be tilted relative to the trans at all, I normally put a jack under the trans to accomplish this. Simply spin the crank shaft using a 22mm socket on the main bolt that holds the harmonic dampener on. Turn it a tiny bit, and try pushing the engine together, if it doesn't go, turn the crank a bit more. simple. (obviously this is if you aren't using a lift, and pulled the engine not the trans.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
pb blaster and big end channel lock pliers works great on exhaust hangers. Especially the heavy duty pita ones.
Pick up a set of THESE. They work amazing for exhaust hangers.



My tricks:

-Keep a putty knife handy when separating an engine from the trans. I have one that has the metal running all the way through the handle, so I can hit it with a hammer, to get that first crack between the engine and trans. 9 times out of ten, what you will be stuck on is the guide pins, so focus on separating the area around the pins.

-You dont need to disconnect the AC or PS pumps to pull an engine, if you simply remove the pumps from the engine lines attached, you can get enough room to pull the engine.

-Radiator fan Plugs have a pull style key. you dont squeeze the connector, you have to pull the key away from the connector.

-Dont be afraid to use a flat blade screw driver to help you pull apart stuck connectors.
squarebush is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 11:32 AM   #11
B.R.E.D
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 289606
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
06 WRX
white

Default

I've got a few I've been meaning to post but since I had to deal with this yesterday Ill post it now.

Use a large putty knife on both front corners of the oil pan to get it off without damaging the mounting surface.

Just gently tap it between the pan and the block.


Ill post more later about splitting cases, do not ever under any circumstance pry the case halves apart.
B.R.E.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 12:16 PM   #12
spoolinsti05
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Oneonta, NY
Vehicle:
2005 WRX STi
WRB

Default

I've never pulled a transmission with the engine on one of these cars.

But wrx & 04 sti have dowel pins you need to punch out. idk if thats exactly the issue at hand.

As far as lining up the splines I use a lift with a transmission jack that has a chain to hold the trans to it, and two tilt adjustments. Works awesome. I'll also use a exhaust jack stand to tilt the motor back for extra angle.

I also herd you can just pull the motor forward to do a clutch need to remove the radiator of course. Idk what else never tried
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 01:01 PM   #13
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Another thing that helps with the oil pan is a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer. Once you get the putty knife in and break some of the RTV as B.R.E.D. mentioned, gently tapping it will break the seal. NEVER use a screw driver to "pry" it off, as you will warp the flange and be buying a new oil pan.

A tranny jack is THE best money I ever spent. I can now install and remove an STI tranny by myself inside of 15 minutes ones everything attached is removed. I use a jack with a block of wood to push the front of the engine back. Once everything is lined up with minimal tension the tranny slips right on/off.

Thanks for the wrist/piston pin trick. Does anyone else have a specialty tool that is easier/cheaper/better than an actual wrist pin puller?
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 01:50 PM   #14
Team Scream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT
06 STi Wide Body Wagon

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B.R.E.D View Post
I've got a few I've been meaning to post but since I had to deal with this yesterday Ill post it now.

Use a large putty knife on both front corners of the oil pan to get it off without damaging the mounting surface.

Just gently tap it between the pan and the block.


Ill post more later about splitting cases, do not ever under any circumstance pry the case halves apart.
I designed a tool for splitting the case halves. I have not completed it yet, but when I do, I will make a few of them and offer them to those who may want them.

Here is the original post I made about it last year:
Team Scream Case Splitter

And here is a drawing I sketched up in Illustrator to show the concept.





I will be diving into this tool to try and complete it as soon as I get these 2 engines built.

The concept is to use the crank as a fulcrum, a used set of head bolts as the pulling agents, and tooling that bolts to the flywheel contacts @ the back of the crank, and uses a rubber pad between the tooling and the front of the crank.

Essentially, the used head bolts will separate the case halves from the dowels and sealant by keeping the crankshaft stationary.

This is a rough sketch of what it looks like so far, but if you visualize it, you will get the picture pretty easily.

No pounding on the case, no prying, no damage the the mating surfaces or dowel pins from cocking the case halves. Just clean, perfect separation which is what you want when you want to inspect main bearings and impart no additional scoring or damage during the case splitting process.
Team Scream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 03:13 PM   #15
spoolinsti05
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Oneonta, NY
Vehicle:
2005 WRX STi
WRB

Default

What do you guy's do for seized wrist pins. I Have a older ej25. I Was thinking a hook slide hammer deal. It's seized bad..

Yea with the tranny jack my best time is 35 minutes to get it all apart. With hand tools I only used air on wheels, mounts, shaft loop's. And leaving axles in the hub's trick.

if I didn't quit smoking an hour lol.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 03:23 PM   #16
2milehi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 81633
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Dillon, CO
Vehicle:
'98 RS-T
Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B.R.E.D View Post
I've got a few I've been meaning to post but since I had to deal with this yesterday Ill post it now.

Use a large putty knife on both front corners of the oil pan to get it off without damaging the mounting surface.

Just gently tap it between the pan and the block.


Ill post more later about splitting cases, do not ever under any circumstance pry the case halves apart.
I have seen a scissors jack used in the bell-housing area of the engine to split the block. Anything wrong with this method?
2milehi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 06:26 PM   #17
squarebush
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 173656
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashua NH
Default

Here is my wrist pin puller. I used a 20$ slide hammer from harbor freight for the puller, and made a custom adapter out of a screw driver. I broke the handle off, and welded on a nut to the back so the hammer had somewhere to grab. then I Bent the tip over in a vice, and welded the tip for strength.





\

And, that case breaker is awesome team scream!
squarebush is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 06:58 PM   #18
manys
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 265277
Join Date: Nov 2010
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago
Vehicle:
1999 Outback
Legacy

Default

Not to take anything from your idea BUT

The easiest(cheapest - no special tools required) way to take out piston pins is by PUNCHING them OUT , NOT PULLING OUT

I just use long 0.25" metal rod I bought for $3 at ACE and a mullet(hammer)

You slide it trough #1 pin to punch out #3 (and vice versa)
You slide it trough #2 pin to punch out#4 (and vice versa)
manys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 08:13 PM   #19
B.R.E.D
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 289606
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
06 WRX
white

Default

I have a long rod that I put a slight curve in, I use it to push the pins out from the other side of the case.

Once you do a couple its easy to get a feel for.
B.R.E.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 08:19 PM   #20
spoolinsti05
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Oneonta, NY
Vehicle:
2005 WRX STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by manys
Not to take anything from your idea BUT

The easiest(cheapest - no special tools required) way to take out piston pins is by PUNCHING them OUT , NOT PULLING OUT

I just use long 0.25" metal rod I bought for $3 at ACE and a mullet(hammer)

You slide it trough #1 pin to punch out #3 (and vice versa)
You slide it trough #2 pin to punch out#4 (and vice versa)
I'll try this.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 10:05 PM   #21
squarebush
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 173656
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashua NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by manys View Post
Not to take anything from your idea BUT

The easiest(cheapest - no special tools required) way to take out piston pins is by PUNCHING them OUT , NOT PULLING OUT

I just use long 0.25" metal rod I bought for $3 at ACE and a mullet(hammer)

You slide it trough #1 pin to punch out #3 (and vice versa)
You slide it trough #2 pin to punch out#4 (and vice versa)

I didn't know that was possible, I would think that the inner CIR clips would be in the way of getting the rod through. But if it works, That is defiantly a good trick!
squarebush is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 10:20 PM   #22
stretchedk7
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 170602
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: j-ville fl
Vehicle:
06 Wrx RWD Auto
76MM-AEM-2200's

Default

I thought everyone used that trick lol. By far best way to go.
stretchedk7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 10:20 PM   #23
stretchedk7
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 170602
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: j-ville fl
Vehicle:
06 Wrx RWD Auto
76MM-AEM-2200's

Default

I thought everyone used that trick lol. By far best way to go.
stretchedk7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2012, 12:49 AM   #24
spoolinsti05
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Oneonta, NY
Vehicle:
2005 WRX STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by squarebush

I didn't know that was possible, I would think that the inner CIR clips would be in the way of getting the rod through. But if it works, That is defiantly a good trick!
I'm sure that's why I didn't do it. I'll see if I can get to them with two long picks idc if they fall in the block coming apart anyways.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2012, 12:59 AM   #25
B.R.E.D
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 289606
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
06 WRX
white

Default

You don't have to take the inner ones out there is room to get the rod through there.
B.R.E.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What's the NASIOC of the Nissan world? jamesfacts Off-Topic 28 01-02-2012 07:50 PM
Check Engine Light????? Trick of the trade??? SIMPLieSUBARU Service & Maintenance 7 12-11-2009 11:26 PM
Whats the trick of sticking the center diff back on the tranny? reddevil Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline 9 02-03-2008 02:06 PM
EBay thief reveals tricks of the trade. drebone8 Bay Area Impreza Club Forum -- BAIC 3 09-27-2003 10:53 PM
To the owner of the trick black legacy outback Sube Doo North West Impreza Club Forum -- NWIC 1 03-17-2000 08:25 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission
Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.