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01-13-2013, 12:55 PM | #251 | |
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I also cut the wire in the middle, shorted the white and green data wires, and Android still reports it as a USB charger... Did a few tests and compared it to the wall charger, it seems to charge at about the same rate. I also confirm that it outputs more than 500mA even if the system reports it as USB charger (as per thread above - shorting white/green does not make an impact on charging rate).
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01-13-2013, 01:20 PM | #252 | |
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It is afterall a simple Kernel tweak. |
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01-13-2013, 01:41 PM | #253 | |
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1. Nexus 7 OEM charger is nothing special, just the data pins are shorted. 2. Nexus 7 OEM MicroUSB cable is nothing special. It is a standard MicroUSB cable. 3. Any USB car/wall charger should charge the Nexus 7. 4. Nexus 7 will charge regardless of whether it displays "AC Charging" or not. 5. The charging rate is dependent on the capacity of the charger and the total charging circuit impedance (lower the impedance the better). 6. Increasing the length of the cable increases the charging circuit impedance and decreases the charging rate. SOLUTION: 1. Use a high quality, high amperage USB charger. 2. Use a cable with an AWG of (28/24) or lower. 3. Cables longer than 6 feet is not suggested regardless of lower AWG as the connectors itself (especially at the MicroUSB end) will be the bulk of the impedance for that cable. 4. If you desire to have "AC Charging" be displayed on your Nexus 7, short the data wires/pins. Remember, this has no effect on the charging rate. 5. If you plan to modify the charger, take a resistance measurement of the data pins first (unplugged), any readings other than 0 ohms or infinity (open or not connected), you will need to isolate the data pins from the charging circuit prior to shorting. If you do not, you risk damaging the charger and/or your precious Nexus 7. 6. If you plan to modify the cable, short the data wires at the MicroUSB end and leave the data wires open or not connected at the charger end. Use heat shrink to insulate the exposed conductor of the data wires. 7. Make sure the MicroUSB connector end is about 6.0 mm in length. I don't think any kernel tweak will make a difference. Note the OEM wall charger results in the xda thread - it doesn't actually output 2.1A at 5V... Also note that if you're like me running stock android, we have no way to know the mA output. The Widget only "estimates" based on battery capacity, etc. Someone needs to have either CM10 installed (which modifies the kernel and outputs actual mA values for the apps) or a test rig. |
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01-13-2013, 01:56 PM | #254 |
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i'm down to about 41% battery after 3 days and about 200 miles.
i read the same article that you've copied/pasted zedix. definitely need a better solution than the one that we have. maybe wire in a small 100W 12VDC to 115VAC inverter and use the stock wall plug? seems silly but I don't know what else to do. Last edited by sabregen; 01-13-2013 at 02:05 PM. |
01-13-2013, 02:14 PM | #255 | |
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I'll do some more testing with the 3A adapter this week and see how it performs. |
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01-13-2013, 02:59 PM | #256 |
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most of the time the battery monitor is reporting "charging" but at 0mA. sometimes it's ~-50mA. It has spiked to ~-1300mA a few times though. It shows charging, but it's never +mA. Always -mA.
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01-13-2013, 11:16 PM | #257 | |
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01-14-2013, 11:01 AM | #258 | |
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i havent' looked into the arduino idea yet. i have a few fitment issues and the charging issue to resolve first. down to 35% battery this morning. Last edited by sabregen; 01-14-2013 at 11:08 AM. |
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01-14-2013, 11:02 AM | #259 |
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01-14-2013, 11:13 AM | #260 |
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I'm getting a positive charge too from the CPT adapter. Drove to work this morning (~30 minutes) and tablet stayed at 100%.
What's your 12v to 5v? Also check the length of the micro-USB cable that plugs in the tablet, I heard some of the cheaper brands of micro-USB cables have a shorter connector which can cause these issues with the N7. |
01-14-2013, 11:30 AM | #261 | ||
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HZVH6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=A366JJX4Y3BPUI?tag=citofgamonlco-20&tag=53361059562-20 Quote:
3ft version |
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01-14-2013, 02:38 PM | #262 |
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Can't wait for the JDM AV panel to come in and clean it up, also installed a Matte screen protector to help prevent against glare and finger prints |
01-14-2013, 03:18 PM | #263 |
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onsit/zedix, at the top center of the dash trim is yours popped out? I believe that mine is doing this (about 1/4") because the back of the Nexus 7 is meeting up with the top center clip female end (the part where the hole is for the tab...the surrounding plastic there is what i'm referring to) i originally thought that the horizontal aluminum brace was causing it, but i removed that and it still does it. it seems like if i ground it down i wouldn't have this issue... but then it potentially would not clip in at this one position.
onsit - any charging issues for you? |
01-14-2013, 03:29 PM | #264 | |
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01-14-2013, 03:58 PM | #265 |
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01-14-2013, 04:00 PM | #266 |
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The part I shaved is not on the bezel, but inside the dash itself.
You can see it in the picture below: |
01-14-2013, 04:10 PM | #267 |
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eureka! i thought i was losing my mind. i totally missed the slightly deformed lip in that picture that indicated it had been shaved. that makes waaay more sense.
guess i know what i'm doing tonight. can the two of you confirm that you're using the same CPT charger that I am? where did you guys get your right angle cables? |
01-14-2013, 06:04 PM | #268 | |
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01-14-2013, 07:17 PM | #269 |
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chopped the dash. test fit time
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01-14-2013, 07:24 PM | #270 |
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well that part worked out just fine. the part i'm having issue with now is getting the Nexus 7 flush at the bottom of the new dash piece. it's sitting 1/4" back due to the clips ob the actual vents themselves, not the dash piece, on the far left and far right (not the middle two) being in the way. going to sand them down.
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01-14-2013, 07:43 PM | #271 |
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shaving off the top outer vent clips gets the Nexus 7 butted up to the back of the dash piece... but there's nothign holding it there.
how are you guys getting the bottom o the Nexus 7 screen to stay butted up against the back of the dash piece? also, Plasti-Dip may need to get peeled off of the dash. it looks great for 3 days, then it becomes a dust magnet. might need to peel and paint. |
01-14-2013, 10:00 PM | #272 | |
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You have pics of the interior after it was freshly done? |
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01-14-2013, 11:34 PM | #273 | |
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Then I created a double cross bracket, with 4 pieces of cork a rough sketch.. ......iii.......iii...... ......iii.......iii...... .==||====||==. ......iii.......iii...... ......iii.......iii...... Ignore the dots, those are meant for white space. If that makes sense.. this allows for a very flush finish. --- If someone made a custom fiberglass piece to hold it in place.... id pay cash money. |
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01-14-2013, 11:48 PM | #274 |
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a picture is worth a thousand words on that one onsit.
i think i see what you did, though. you created two brackets in both of the positions where the stock HU bolted in? and 2 pieces of cork per bracket? i've never done any fiberglass work, but from the ipad mini thread, i have a general idea of how the process works. i don't know that i'd be all that good at it without removing that entire dash piece though, so that i can see what the backside looks like. that might be more work than i am comfortable in doing, however. |
01-14-2013, 11:48 PM | #275 | |
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