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Old 06-20-2012, 06:21 AM   #3576
Aquamist
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1. The new in-tank filter has eliminated most of the long term leaky problems with shrinking hoses. We have also stopped using push-fit fittings for the same reason. All systems since 2010 are supplied with double-clamped compression fittings.

2. The foot print is identical.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:14 PM   #3577
wychk99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
Here is the link to the wiring harness, you need to log in.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...6268#post16268
thanks for your help. my tuner said he set the pin wrong or something like that. everything is workign fine now.
thank you!!
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:24 PM   #3578
Mike Costin
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Richard

Can the pump in the HFS-4 kit be mounted sideways?

Is there an optimal orientation?

What about the original Shurflo pump from the HFS-5 kit?

Thanks in advance,
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:28 PM   #3579
Aquamist
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The pump can be mounted in any orientation if it is installed in the dry trunk area. Ideally below the water level.

If you install the pump in the engine bay or location where it is exposed to the elements, you need to seal the cable entry gland - major cause of pump seizure when water trickles along the cable and reach the pump bearing.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:19 PM   #3580
Franko
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Hey, I just purchased the hfs3 and have a question about the jet size. Im running the 1mm jet and it isnt supplying enough. I did the math and I need to supply 700ccs of meth with two 0.7mm jets.

My question is can I use the supplied 0.8 and 0.9 mm jets together and dial the flow back with the gain control?
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:38 AM   #3581
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If you need 700cc/min, you should go for a ceiling of 800-900cc/min. This will compensate system loss of 15 to 20%. You can also dial it back via the gain trimmer.

It is always good to have a bit more capacity on top in case you want to run higher meth percentage.
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:28 AM   #3582
shaman
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Aside from the flow mapping, what benefit would the HFS-4 have over the HFS-3v2 for a direct injected engine without a fuel pressure sensor?
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:33 PM   #3583
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The HFS-4's flow is the results of two variables, boost and IDC. It can be either or anywhere in between. This will allow a double hump effect.

As the initial boost subsided, either by the electronics or turbo flow capacity, the system will continue to increase flow with IDC (Load + RPM). This is a particularly useful for those who runs high boost with factory turbos.

So HFS-4 is also good for non-direct injection engines.
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:04 PM   #3584
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Stupid question. Which direction to turn gain to increase flow?
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:16 AM   #3585
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Clockwise to increase flow on the gain trimmer.
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:32 AM   #3586
jockeygolfs
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Is it normal to have air from the FAV to the jets? I'm going through tuning right now and things are looking good but when I lifted the good I noticed there are pockets of air. The line from the pump to the FAV is solid. No bubbles.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:22 PM   #3587
Aquamist
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Air is normal only under the following conditions

- Multi-jets at different heights
- Single jet with longish hose runs below the height level of FAV.
- loose hose fitting before and after the FAV will produce leak and air bubbles.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:33 PM   #3588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist
Air is normal only under the following conditions

- Multi-jets at different heights
- Single jet with longish hose runs below the height level of FAV.
- loose hose fitting before and after the FAV will produce leak and air bubbles.
I have two jets. One at the throttle body connection on the intercooler and the other on the Y fitting of the intercooler. So yes, the jets are at different levels.

I do have the FAV above the jets as well. It would be somewhat difficult to get the fav below the bottom I the intercooler level.

There are no bubbles before the FAV and all the fittings are tight. So I guess I have two of the three situations. Everything seems to function either way.

Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:48 PM   #3589
shaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
The HFS-4's flow is the results of two variables, boost and IDC. It can be either or anywhere in between. This will allow a double hump effect.

As the initial boost subsided, either by the electronics or turbo flow capacity, the system will continue to increase flow with IDC (Load + RPM). This is a particularly useful for those who runs high boost with factory turbos.

So HFS-4 is also good for non-direct injection engines.

Like the HFS-6 did correct?
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #3590
2011boostdwrx
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Richard i have the HSF-2, it was professionally installed by Akuma, when i start the car, the LEd is yellow and then turns to green like 10 seconds later. IS this normal operation?
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:17 AM   #3591
Aquamist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaman View Post
Like the HFS-6 did correct?
There is a slight difference between the two. The manifold pressure on the HFS6 is for compensating any flow drop due to the manifold pressure. On the HFS4, the manifold pressure plays a major role in controlling flow.

There is a separate channel for high pressure fuel rail compensation on the H4, this is important for Di engines. This channel can also be used to offset flow by +/- 20% with other sensors such as EGT, engine temperature, air temperature sensor (inverted), afr, etc.

The H4 is getting more able and no more complicated to install due to it plug & play nature. If you can tap one signal from the controller, the next one just take a minute more or a few seconds if you use posilock.
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:19 AM   #3592
Aquamist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011boostdwrx View Post
Richard i have the HSF-2, it was professionally installed by Akuma, when i start the car, the LEd is yellow and then turns to green like 10 seconds later. IS this normal operation?
It is normal for the yellow led to go off after ten seconds after system check. The green shade is probably due to backlit led shining through.
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:34 PM   #3593
2011boostdwrx
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This is when the system is armed. The yellow light shows and like you said 10-12 seconds later it turns green. I am assuming this is the controller going through a self check.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:23 AM   #3594
Aquamist
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If empty tank is detected during the start up, the system will not turn on. The gauge led will remain yellow.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:19 AM   #3595
Aquamist
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Default NEW jet range


We have two new jet options

1/8 NPT extended...
Internal checkvalve and 100um disc filter incorporated.
The threaded tip is extended for thick wall manifold installations.

M8 x 0.75mm ...
Retaining the same M8 thread, 8mm longer. It has an internal 15psi
checkvalve to combat the siphoning effect in multi-jet applications
especially there is vacuum or pressure differentials between location
such as pre-turbo and post turbo setups






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Old 08-22-2012, 05:28 AM   #3596
jockeygolfs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist
If empty tank is detected during the start up, the system will not turn on. The gauge led will remain yellow.
So this will eliminate the absence of meth in my lines due to uneven jet locations and my FAV being above my jet location?
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:32 AM   #3597
Aquamist
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The system cannot absence of meth in the lines at start up, only the level of the tank.

Meth movements between jets (post FAV) can only be eliminated with individual jet with internal checkvalve. It is a mechanical problem and can only be solved mechanically.
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:38 AM   #3598
jockeygolfs
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Oops, I quoted the wrong thing. So will the new jets with the check valves will solve the issue of the lines being empty between the jet and the FAV?
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:55 PM   #3599
Aquamist
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The checkvalve will stop water further dribbing out of the jet after hose depressurization. The hose should remind fully filled.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:15 AM   #3600
Mike Costin
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Hi Richard,

I have the Spec C tank in the trunk with an aluminum firewall between trunk and cabin. Additionally NASA CCR requires braided stainless steel lines for any alcohol mix passing thru the cabin. I don't want to run the line under the chassis which would require a different type of line anyway.

One idea is -4 A.N. braided hose. But that would require sourcing something like a -4 A.N. threaded compression fitting for 6mm tube or a BSPP - A.N. adapter.

Another idea is sheathing the existing line.

Ideas?
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