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Old 02-11-2013, 04:25 PM   #26
Suba_Roo
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Member#: 5691
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Redwood City, CA
Vehicle:
2001 2.5 RS
Silverthorn

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Thoughts on the AGX with the Ground Control coil sleeves?

I got bought the GC sleeves used for a very low price. They came with 8" springs. 330lbs/" front 300lbs/" rear. I run the struts at 3 or 4 on the front 6 or 7 in the back. I bought the struts new off ebay for a steal.

The combination is very good for what I paid for it. On smooth roads/surfaces it is balanced. I had an instructor drive my car at the fresno AX class and he liked it a lot.

That said, the dampening profile sucks. The car is really really stiff. Even with race comp lowering plates (set up to provide more bump travel) the car doesn't have enough bump travel. With the 22mm sways front and rear (set soft) the car picks up a tire entering driveways. The GC coil sets for the AGX struts do not come with a helper spring. I think that the springs might unseat entering driveways, and definitey would unseat if you fully unweighted an end (jumped). The adjustability of the AGX's is limited.

When I got the struts I was using group-n top hats all around. I obviously upgraded to the front camber plates to gain camber/caster and bump travel. I just ordered a set of rear camber plates to make room for bigger tires. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of tender springs.

I think the car could be as fast or faster while being much more comfortable as a daily with a true set of coilovers. I did really good shopping when buying the parts, but by the time I've added camber plates, and tender springs, I suspect I would have spent a similar amount on a set of true coilovers.

If you're considering AGX's with GC coilovers. I think I'd instead buy this guys stuts http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2446703
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Last edited by Suba_Roo; 02-11-2013 at 04:26 PM. Reason: 3" inch springs? Really? 8" is actually accurate.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:28 PM   #27
sureshot007
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Member#: 142405
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: TeamHazardRally.com
Vehicle:
#716 Group5 S10

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I had GCs on AGXs....for about a week. Then went to Konis and never looked back.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:35 PM   #28
dropdfocus
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Member#: 89756
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NEPA
Vehicle:
1992 Legacy Sport
Silver

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Thanks for the feedback. I have AGX's now with Eibach Pro springs but I've been looking towards buying a true set of coilovers. A friend has a set of Ground Control coilovers (not the sleeve kit) he's willing to sell me for $1,000 which isn't a bad price but currently outside of my available budget.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:13 AM   #29
YarkoSoloSCCA
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Glad you had fun. placing well in the novices class despite the XP pax shows you know how to drive the car the way it is.

Classing FP would be correct as long as you are NA with the stock block and head. and you don't have an aftermaket wing or a front lip. The lightweight beams, maybe the brace, the suspension pickup point those are all prepared typed mods. You should change you base class from XP to FP the pax is easier.

Since you did well in your car as it is, you should spend this season driving it and improving that "the loose nut behind the wheel". After the season decide if you want to be a serious competitor and what class to take the car to. ( or event to get a different car). You'll know more and likely ave some friends that want you in their class.

Avoid thinking you have a "F-Prepared Car and using the rules as a development Recipe." The Car may never be competitive there. Most competive Prepared cars are designed before they are bought or built. There is 1 impreza GC in XP at nationals regularly. I bought a track car that classed between SMF and FP. Locally everyone in SMF said hey, your not quite legal but you can run with us. I didn't want to have an unfair advantage or anything so I ran in FP.

My pax points sucked --I had been around 850 my first 2 seasons in FSP with and underpreared car--.and now with a "race car" I was down in the low 800's with the FP pax. I immediately started pouring time and money into the car for development. But development cost me missing quite a few events, or just having to sort the new parts out insead of focuing on my driving. After 4 seasons its up to a 900-935 pts.

I had bought the car for solo and a DD if I had ignored the FP class rules I was placed in and I would have put back the interior, replacing a pulley, and classing down to DSP and kept it on the street. Now I have a garage + trailer queen that sees a few hours of asphalt a year, and might be nationally competitive some year. I do have fun building it, and its a hook to drive. I could have bought a supercar or a cafe for what I've got in it.

Nationally most in prepared are running real racing slicks (Hoosier, Goodyear, or Avon) which are 2 seconds faster than A6's on a 60 sec course. they tend to be trailer queens, and they might only have a couple of gears. Its a neat class to develop for they are real race cars.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:04 PM   #30
Suba_Roo
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Join Date: Apr 2001
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Location: Redwood City, CA
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2001 2.5 RS
Silverthorn

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I'm running again this weekend.

It seems like the Internet car parts shopping gods have been against me. I've got some rear camber plates on their way which should make room for some bigger tires, which will let me have a dedicated set of autocross tires. Alas, they won't get here in time for Sunday. So again I'll be running on 205/55/16" Yokohama s-drives instead of some 225-235 r-comps (or maybe Rivals).

Thanks for the head's up on FP vs XP. I still have the center section of a P1 lip bonded onto my bumper. If I can get that off the car before Sunday, I'll run FP which should save me about 1 second on a 45 second lap.

I appreciate all the feedback, I want to make the car as competitive as possible without turning it into dedicated autocross car and without overly sacrificing the car being fun on the street.
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