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Old 11-11-2003, 03:57 PM   #1
NotFast
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Question Differential fill & drain plugs hard to remove - torch 'em?

Well, I tried to remove both plugs while the car was sitting level on the ground and they wouldn't budge. I even tried putting my floor jack pad under my breaker bar and using that upward pressure to dislodge them, but I couldn't get a good angle.

So, they're stuck, presumable too much torque or (more likely) too much threadlocker. What's a next step -- try hitting them with a blowtorch and then the breaker bad again?

TIA
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Old 11-11-2003, 04:09 PM   #2
Mulder
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They have sealant on them so you have to break the bond before they will come off, but a breaker bar should be sufficient. It was when I did mine.
Using a torch probably isn't the best idea as the sealant may be flammable.
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Old 11-11-2003, 04:50 PM   #3
Cabal
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I had the best luck using a small 1/2" ratchet without an extension on it, positioned at a 4 o'clock angle in combination with a jack.
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Old 11-11-2003, 05:46 PM   #4
armand1
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Make sure your breaker bar is at least 2 feet long; you can also try *tightening* it a bit first to break it loose.
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Old 11-11-2003, 06:34 PM   #5
Pakin
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Breaker bar (long if possible) usually works for me. The upper body strength

If not, use a metal pipe as an extention (deemed as "strongly recommended against"), stick it in the handle or the b-bar and pull/kick, etc.

A lot of the time, for the matter of the plugs getting tighter, is the tapered design of the plug and hole. And then we have two different metals; aluminum for the casing, and I forgot what the plug was made of, but it builds up in a chemical reaction and seizes it up. Some anti-seize would help in the future.

It's been a while, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

-paK +1
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Old 11-11-2003, 06:38 PM   #6
gpd323
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Back up the WRX onto ramps. I did that and used a breaker bar and floor jack to loosen the plugs. Once they are free you will never have this issue again.
Or find a steep driveway and position the rear of the car right where the DW begins to slope. Gives you some more room.
Cheers,
Greg D.
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Old 11-11-2003, 08:00 PM   #7
vvk
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Lightbulb pay for it

First time I had to pay a mechanic a nominal fee to undo these bolts using his air gun. It was easy.

I made sure I torqued the bolts down myself using a torque wrench.
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Old 11-11-2003, 09:44 PM   #8
Bottom Feeder
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Mine came off without much effort. I was fearing the worst from everything I've read in here, but I didn't run into any problems, even with a relatively short ratchet. I didn't even have it on ramps.

Upper-body strength is your friend, boys.
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Old 11-11-2003, 11:21 PM   #9
esteve
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There's an easy way to do it. With the car up on jackstands, lie on your back, put your feet on the inside of the left rear tire, and go to town. You're basically using your legs and hips which are much stronger and the tire gives a solid base.
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Old 11-12-2003, 03:22 AM   #10
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never torch alumnium, they have a thread locker on them to prevent them from backing out of the case

big arse breaker bar
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Old 11-12-2003, 08:03 AM   #11
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heat probably isn't the answer - might work, though... be very careful, or you will ruin the differential cover.

I just put the car up on jackstands and used a regular ratchet - a couple of tugs and it was free, then it backed right out. They do use quite a bit of that black thread-locking compound, but it doesn't exactly require Herculean strength to remove the bolt... get a cheater bar, if a ratchet is too short (I am not a big fan of kicking anything connected to the car when I am under it, even on jackstands - a little paranoid, I suppose, but I don't want to get squished like a bug if the car were to come off the stands... (just because it shouldn't happen doesn't mean it can't - things break)
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:00 AM   #12
fliz
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I'm thinking that since metal expands when it is heated, throwing a torch on the bolts will only make things worse. It might melt off some of the thread lock, but also expand the bolt locking it even tighter in the case.

I had no problems when I put the car on ramps and used a breaker bar, but...
<uninformed internet suggestion>
If you still can't get it, driving around until the whole diff. is warm and then icing the bolts might help.
</uninformed internet suggestion>
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:41 AM   #13
avk
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Steel expands less than aluminum. Even with same materials, heating helps because any voids between the parts also expand.
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Old 11-12-2003, 02:08 PM   #14
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Default Re: Differential fill & drain plugs hard to remove - torch 'em?

Quote:
Originally posted by NotFast
I even tried putting my floor jack pad under my breaker bar and using that upward pressure to dislodge them, but I couldn't get a good angle.
I used a regular ratchet and the stock jack. I didn't have any problems placing the ratchet into the plugs parallel to the ground, and putting the jack directly onto the ratchet handle.

-Dennis
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Old 11-16-2003, 05:49 PM   #15
Psydotek
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Yep, I just did it today myself... even with a 1 foot breaker bar extension on the ratchet, i just ended up putting the car jack under it and let the weight of the car do the breaking.
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Old 11-17-2003, 07:12 AM   #16
moogoob
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