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03-11-2011, 12:12 PM | #1 |
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Oil keeps leaking from drain plug
This has been going on for over a year. I've tried the crush washers in both orientations, I've tried over-tightening the drain plug. No there aren't two washers on there.
None of this has been able to prevent a very slow drip from the drain plug. Is it possible I need a new plug? Only thing I could think is maybe the threads got stretched out a little... Nothing is stripped though, as I have cranked on that thing as I hard as I can until it wouldn't budge. Just wondering if anyone else has this problem. |
03-11-2011, 12:15 PM | #2 |
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wrap the drain plug threads with teflon tape?
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03-11-2011, 12:25 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Determined to find what was causing the leak, at about the third oil change I inspected the drain plug... on close inspection I could see there was an O-ring already on it, painted black like the plug, and stuck so tightly I had to use a knife to separate and remove it. New O-ring and leak was gone. Next new Suby I was smarter and FIRST oil change I got that stock one out of there. It seems they paint the pan with the plug/O-ring installed, so the O-ring isn't really visible, and is sometimes seriously stuck on the plug. I'd check this first... better than trying RTV or teflon tape, both of which I used until I found the root cause. |
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03-11-2011, 08:57 PM | #4 |
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the stock crusher ring on mine is stuck to the bolt and was painted together. it is impossible to find it if you are not looking for it.
Last edited by dakrat; 03-12-2011 at 10:25 PM. |
03-11-2011, 01:40 PM | #5 |
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I wasn't sure Teflon tape was ok for this application...
I'm glad you mentioned that, because every time I look at my drain plug I am convinced it's made of 2 different materials. I might have to look more closely next time, and actually see if there is a washer there I can pry of. If that is so, than that thing is SERIOUSLY crushed on there. Exact same diameter as the head of the bolt too. I may just buy a new bolt. Just did an oil change so I don't want to let it all run out. |
03-11-2011, 03:28 PM | #6 |
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Do you have to the oil temp plug?
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03-11-2011, 03:30 PM | #7 |
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^ no.
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03-11-2011, 05:29 PM | #8 |
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This thing is awsome no more mess or burned hands http://fumotousa.com/
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03-11-2011, 07:59 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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03-11-2011, 09:07 PM | #10 |
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03-11-2011, 08:52 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
putting that in the drain hole gives it the added thickness to the hole and traps more oil in the pan... if you want to remove as much old oil every oil change, don't put anything in the drain hole... |
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03-11-2011, 09:10 PM | #12 |
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No it's not to hard , Have you seen one in person? If you did you'd think different, It's not holding that much oil back esp on the Subaru oil pan that narrows on the bottom.
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07-24-2012, 11:57 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
putting that in the drain hole gives it the added thickness to the hole and traps more oil in the pan... if you want to remove as much old oil every oil change, don't put anything in the drain hole... [quote] I've never had a problem with the valve drain plug. I just maybe use half a quart just to make sure I get all the excess grime oil in the pan and my pans clean |
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03-12-2011, 02:19 AM | #14 | |
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My father has these on all of his cars as well. I also had a few friends in college that had them on supras and other STi's. None of them have ever leaked or come open on their own. |
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03-11-2011, 07:46 PM | #15 |
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i've heard of those things leaking too
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03-11-2011, 09:07 PM | #16 |
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+1 on the stuck washer. Mine has had the same issue when I bought it. Crush washer was plastered to the drain plug.
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03-11-2011, 09:08 PM | #17 |
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Definitly check for the original crush washer. As already stated, the pans are assembled and then painted (epoxy paint I believe). So sometimes those washers are 1) really hard to tell they are not part of the bolt, and 2) a wicked pain to get off.
The pan bolt torque is 32ft/lbs. Make sure you either torque to spec or are VERY certain in your skills to eyeball it. Under and you won't properly crush the crush washer, too much and you risk striping the skimpy 3 threads that hold the plug. |
03-11-2011, 11:41 PM | #18 |
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you must be running a really good synthetic......lol.......
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03-12-2011, 08:55 AM | #19 |
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Notice how the pan narrows at the bottom, With about 2 threads protruding into the pan do you really thing it makes that much difference? Most oil change places drain oil for 30 seconds I drain mine for 20-30 mins.
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03-12-2011, 05:25 PM | #20 |
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^ It's not that it protrudes into the pan as much as the Fumoto's hole is much smaller than the OEM plug and in the center.
Pre-06 pans hold ~180ml of oil after "fully" drained. and Post-06 pans holds ~80ml of oil after "fully" drained. I would guess the Fumoto would add about another 100ml to that, but that's a guess. Last edited by KillerBMotorsport; 03-12-2011 at 08:44 PM. |
03-12-2011, 06:03 PM | #21 |
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100 ml is nothing compared to the amounts left in the motor after an oil change. Just my .02
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03-12-2011, 08:29 PM | #22 |
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you can jack the car up on the passanger side.
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03-12-2011, 08:32 PM | #23 | |
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03-12-2011, 08:48 PM | #24 |
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03-12-2011, 08:43 PM | #25 |
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ok, you can use a vacuum pump like we use on jet skis. it'll get quite a bit out, better than draining, not sure how a baffle on the pan will hinder this but iv'e used it a couple times on my car and pulled the plug and no oil came out.
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