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Old 05-16-2006, 12:24 AM   #1
StiDreams
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Thumbs up OT Climbers, check in.

I have not climber seriously for a few seasons due to injuries. When I say serious I donít mean impossibly hard stuff. I donít climb hard. My max lead = 5.9+ on trad and 5.10 on bolted stuff. Right now itís probably more like 5.8 on both. What I mean is lots of trips with lots of climbing. Last year was the first year in a couple that I did any multi-pitch trad in some time. It was just a weekend here and there but enough to let me know that my body is ready again.

This is going to be a restart year for me. Weíre going to be a repeat of all of the classics at Loverís Leap (Strawberry, CA), Sugar Loaf and Phantom Spires (Kybers, CA). Thereís lots of good stuff there in my grand range. Of course there will have to be a couple of Tuolumne and Yosemite trips in there. And the big trip is going to be North Dome, South Face Route (5.7 *). Itís not a real big climb about 8 pitches of real climbing and a little of Yosemite 4th class. Weíre going to end the year with this one. Itíll be something new and not too tough. I should be a fun one.

I know there has to be a couple of rock & ice type here. What are you doing this summer? Inspire me with your plans.

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Old 05-16-2006, 12:30 AM   #2
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got a pair of unused basic 5.10's size 10 1/2 if anyone wants 'em cheap. wanted to learn to boulder/free climb years back, but i um, lack the discipline.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:14 AM   #3
StiDreams
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Bump for the day crew.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:18 AM   #4
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I used to climb, mostly indoor competitions. Tendonitis in both arms from my hands to my elbows and a costal cartlidge injury led me to stop climbing. I was climbing pretty well, but I was at the point where I'd either do something awesome or get injured.
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:15 AM   #5
StiDreams
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That's why I don't climb hard. Every time I get to where I'm climbing solid 11's on TR and start thinking I'm going to break into that next level, I start flirting with the 11+'s and 12a's, boom, something breaks. Then I'm shut down for months/years from climbing. I'm too old to heal fast or well. All I want from the gym is to get to solid 10's. From the outside it would be nice to be comfortable on old-school trad 9's again. You donít have to be a hard-man to enjoy the rock.
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:31 AM   #6
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I went to a local gym with some friends last year, I've still got my gear and my body remembers the motions. But I remember being at a certain level and I won't be happy unless I'm back there. To me it's dissapointing when I can't complete a sequence and I know that it would've been cake to the "me" from four years ago.
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:32 AM   #7
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I climb indoor just for fun. Haven't gone religously to develop any sort of real talent, but have a bit of natural ability, or so I'm told. Do 5.8s and 5.9s mostly.

If anyone's familiar with the climbing world... Nate Gold... I guess he's a pretty big name out there right now. I grew up sailing with him. Saw him at the local climbing gym a few months ago. He gets flown around to different spots all over the world so they can tape him climbing.

It's like snowboard movies... only not as cool.. But whatever works for him. Plus... he's a raging stinky hippie.
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coop119
Plus... he's a raging stinky hippie.

I worked at a gym for several years. Most climbers are.
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkTS02
it's dissapointing when I can't complete a sequence and I know that it would've been cake
I know what you mean. I'm going through that right now with this restart. But a couple of sessions at the gym and I'm starting to touch the indoor "10-'s" again. The worst part for me is seeing the loss of flexibility. Those mantels and high steps just don't work like they use to.
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:49 PM   #10
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:01 PM   #11
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A freakin dyno on a free solo climb? Awesome and completely stupid at the same time!

I do a lot of climbing down in our greenbelts. I'm just to the point where I feel comfortable leading 9's and an occasional 10. Lots of slimy limestone, but it's free. I started climbing in Colorado at the Garden of the Gods. Nothing like being 75 feet up and having a loosely cemented sandstone hold come off in your hands. I'd love to make a trip into Mexico for Potrero Chico in the next couple of months.
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:06 PM   #12
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Just got back from a trip to Seneca Rocks for my first multi-pitch (easy 5.6-5.7 routes). Otherwise I'm sport climbing regularly at local crags (5.9-5.10a's) on lead.

Trips for the summer:
New River Gorge - Weekend trips (hopefully a few)
Mt. Rainier - August
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:07 PM   #13
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I'm more of a faller than a climber. I tried repelling off my neighbors house......Didn't go as planned.
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:20 PM   #14
Mancini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supa-dupa-roo
A freakin dyno on a free solo climb? Awesome and completely stupid at the same time!

I do a lot of climbing down in our greenbelts. I'm just to the point where I feel comfortable leading 9's and an occasional 10. Lots of slimy limestone, but it's free. I started climbing in Colorado at the Garden of the Gods. Nothing like being 75 feet up and having a loosely cemented sandstone hold come off in your hands. I'd love to make a trip into Mexico for Potrero Chico in the next couple of months.
I used to climb at Garden of the Gods all the time when I lived in C-Springs! There are some really fun routes there. I second the "interesting" sandstone.

Haven't climbed since I moved back to Pittsburgh 3 years ago though
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snyper
I climb there all the time. It's about four hours from my front door to the base of that thing. That place has so much good stuff in the intermediate range. I love that climb. He dynoed the "reach".
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Old 05-16-2006, 04:00 PM   #16
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I just entered 10- range, and I am yet to learn to lead-climb, but I am very surprised how much I enjoy it.
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Old 05-16-2006, 04:20 PM   #17
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I mostly boulder and haven't been climbing any sport routes. Usually if I do, I'm at the RRG. But, I'm a gym rat and a bouldering dirtbag. My goal is to get past v10. However, I hardly get a chance to get outside anymore so it's all gym accomplishments. Some of the places I'm planning to go are Bishop, Joe's Valley, Hueco, and RMNP.

Anyways, me and the fiancee are thinking about moving to SLC soon. Lot's of fun pebbles to play with there.
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Old 05-16-2006, 04:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coop119
If anyone's familiar with the climbing world... Nate Gold... I guess he's a pretty big name out there right now.
You mean Nate "Biggie Smooth" Gold? Yeah, that whole crowd is sick strong, idolized and heavily sponsored. Don't know him personally, but I've met and climbed with many of them. The "sport" aspect of climbing has gotten pretty big in the last couple of years.
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Old 05-16-2006, 04:33 PM   #19
StiDreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tricky [RCAF]
I just entered 10- range, and I am yet to learn to lead-climb, but I am very surprised how much I enjoy it.
Youíre climbing 10- on the inside, itís time to strap on a rack and plug in some gear. Thatís how I started (stupid). Iím just kidding. Itís time to find a partner and do a little following. I love doing big multi-pitch stuff. For me getting tall is where itís at.
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:14 PM   #20
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I haven't done anything major in a while, but do have a little rock climbing and extensive glacier travel experience.

<--- 23rd person to climb the highest point in each of the 50 states. Dad and I were the first people to summit all 50 together.
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:17 PM   #21
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I climb, just on walls though
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:21 PM   #22
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I used to climb a lot but haven't in a couple of years since my 2nd kid was born. I'm getting the itch to start again though.

I'm entirely an outdoor guy, I hate indoor climbing. I'd lead 5.7-5.8, and follow 5.9 and 5.9+ would just laugh at me. Living in the NE, Cathedral ledge, Whitehorse and Cannon were my spots.

I iceclimbed for about a year or so too, but rock was more fun.

Now that I've moved, I'm only an hour from those places instead of 3+!
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:22 PM   #23
StiDreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfoote
23rd person to climb the highest point in each of the 50 states.
You've been on the top of McKinley, that's badass.
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:25 PM   #24
coop119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodscoob
You mean Nate "Biggie Smooth" Gold? Yeah, that whole crowd is sick strong, idolized and heavily sponsored. Don't know him personally, but I've met and climbed with many of them. The "sport" aspect of climbing has gotten pretty big in the last couple of years.

that's him. he used to be this kinda "chubby" looking kid who kind of dabbled in climbing. little did we know...

he's pretty ridiculous. though when I ran into him he was drinking in his car and reaked of booze. thankfully he had cut his dreads off at that point.
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford4U
I'm more of a faller than a climber. I tried repelling off my neighbors house......Didn't go as planned.
Try rappelling instead - you might get better results.
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