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Old 05-16-2006, 09:35 AM   #1
Subie Gal
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Lightbulb EBC Yellowstuff Brake Pad - my thoughts and review

Taken from my review page **Here**





Beginning with the start of the 2006 Rally Racing season I've been testing the EBC Yellowstuff CERAMICS.

Most may have heard that EBC pads at one time were considered to be less than rotor / wear friendly pads, and that they earned a horrible reputation.
Especially EBC Greens which had an issue with leaving massive pad deposits on the rotors and often caused “warping.”

Two years ago a new owner, new ideas and many fantastic changes occurred at EBC. I’ve been working with Andy Freeman - Managing Director Freeman Automotive / EBC Brakes UK Ltd and CEO of EBC Brakes USA Ltd.
As per my commitment, I test the brake pads in TRUE, RACING conditions. My goal is to provide feedback on – HONEST feedback so let's get to it.

EBC Yellowstuff R's are the "official" brake pad of the "Subaru Challenge" in the UK. This fact alone has got to say something good about the beating these pads are capable of. So I've decided to give them a go.

These pads are true full race spec material and can handle higher temperatures than some of the other options out there.
EBC claims they offer good wear life, and that the “bite” from cold is GREAT - - not many true race/track pads can hold that kind of claim.
Let's see what I've come up with....

2002 Subaru WRX Wagon PGT Rally car Brake set up:

- - OE Subaru Rotors

- - OE Subaru Brake Calipers

- - Goodridge Stainless lines

- - Motul brake fluid

These Yellowstuff R pads have seen some very high speed, hard braking tarmac stages were I really put the brakes to the test right away. Hitting speeds of 130mph and coming to a near stop for the next bend.
My brake rotors and pads were literally smoking - brakes well heated up.
I've found these pads to be exceptional under extreme temperatures. Hotter they got, the better they performed!

Braking ability/Fade Resistance – I've yet to experience brake fade!
Extreme temperatures, constant left foot braking, let's face it, I have been nothing short of brutal on these pads.
True that in between stages they do get a chance to cool down a bit, yet on stage, they performed better and better the hotter that I got them.
For me, this inspired nothing but confidence in the pad, brakes and car setup.

As with the EBC Redstuffs, pedal travel remained just where it should, there was no extra travel at all. In racing terms, this means that even though the pads were heating up, the heat was not getting all the way THROUGH the pads to the point of fading.
Rotors showed zero signs or warping, or wobbling which meant that the pads were not leaving damaging deposits onto my rotors.

Brake feel – When cold, I was a bit concerned initially.

The pads did not provide a huge amount of feedback.
Yellowstuffs would be decent for highway travel - but perform better and better with each braking application, inspiring more confidence.
I will agree that this is one true "track pad" that allows you to drive to the track, compete, drive home from the track, all in one go and on one set of pads. But for a daily driven "once in a while track/race" car, I would still recommend the EBC Redstuffs.
Choose the Yellowstuffs for your high powered track toy, race car, rally car.

Rotors – Pads have been very, very easy on my Rotors. Note that in my rally classification, I am required to run factory original spec brake rotors. These rotors can be subject to "warping" and damage with incorrect applications. I've run 5 full days of racing/testing at this point -- all ON THE SAME ROTORS without removing them from the car once. They are still in great shape with not "warped" feeling or heat stress to be seen.

Brake Dust – I know you will have doubts, but trust me, there's very minimal dust from these pads. No more than an OEM brake pad, and about 100x less than that of the Porterfield R4’s I used previously.

Compared to my previous pads? – Again, previously I’d used Porterfield R4’s, and EBC Redstuff Ceramics.

I’ve never had brake fade with the Porterfields - yet, unlike the Porterfields, the EBC Brake pads do NOT score my rotors, they do NOT emit extreme amounts of dust and and they LAST.
Typically, after 2 days rallying, my Porterfields were destroyed – worn to the point of being unsafe. With EBC Redstuff or Yellowstuff I can run 3... 4.... 5.. full days of rallying before I need to consider swapping pads. Much better value and performance to boot!!

Compared to the EBC Redstuffs - Very similar comparisons. Both are rotor friendly, light dust, no noise, and long lasting.
The benefit of the Yellowstuff over the Redstuffs? They can handle higher temperatures.
Although I've never had brake fade with either compound, the Yellowstuff seem to hold themselves better the hotter they get!
I can feel it in the brake pedal, in the car and the feedback from the car when under heavy/extreme braking. I would have absolute confidence on either compound, but for "faster" more aggressive racing events, you will find me leaning to the Yellowstuff compound from now on.

In Conclusion: I would recommend these brakes as a "decent" street pad - but most definitely a full track, rally and race pad.

Street Application: You can run these on the street with a fair bit of confidence. Be certain to follow the included instructions and bed them in properly. Noise: These pads come with noise reducing shims, and are surprisingly quiet. Dust: There will be some, but it's very, very minimal. Especially for a performance pad.

Value: I feel these pads are an excellent value for the money - a real bargain. Front/Rear EBC pads can be found for ’s less than ˝ what I was paying out for the Porterfields previously.
When comparing them to other similar "performance" pads, these are, in my opinion, the best value I've found.
Again, 5 full race days, same pads, same rotors and I think I am probably going to use them 1-2 more days before swapping out!

You can learn more about EBC, download full catalogs/applications by visiting: EBC's Web Site


Jamie
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:43 PM   #2
ghschirtz
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^I am putting in Yellow R's and new OE Brembo rotors today, running CA Speedway Sunday. I had Redstuffs before. I will see about keeping the Yellows for the street, but if not comfy, will go back to Reds. Thanks for your review, I will be more confident of my braking now.

George

PS: Why do you left foot brake? Heard of it with Saab rally cars to lock the rears and rotate the car.
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:33 PM   #3
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i just got some on about two weeks ago, had the reds on before. gotta say im very pleased with them after i got them bedded in

they are on my daily driver and as was mentioned above i was skeptical that thease would not work when cold, however there cold bite is really good considering the amount of heat they can take once you have got them warmed up. ive done many 80-100 to almost zero stops trying to find the threshold (on closed course of course) and they just love the heat.

i did not bleed my brakes as it was like 3 am when i changed the pads and i just had a physics midterm but i would immagine that the feel will only get better once i get some new fluid in there.

for the price you cant beat them, they are almost 100$ chaper then some of the jdm pads and seem to give off less dust then my reds.

oh yeah forgot to mention that i left the reds on the rear as there was more then half the pad left and as of now the brake balance feels better to me, the rears come up to temp much quicker or the balance of the braking comes in quicker, if that makes sense. was going to swap them but decided to see what would happen.
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Old 05-16-2006, 04:13 PM   #4
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I don't do any track days as of yet but regularly autox my '02 sedan. I've got 4-pots and 13.4" rotors from Powerslot+'s kit. I love this setup. Great on the track and in the wallet!!!!

+1 for the redstuffs.

Oh, I'll definetly get some yellows if I go to a trackday, though
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Old 05-16-2006, 07:28 PM   #5
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Rally Stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by ghschirtz
PS: Why do you left foot brake? Heard of it with Saab rally cars to lock the rears and rotate the car.

You will find "most" rally drivers do indeed, left foot brake.

It, for me, is the best way to coax the car through the corner
yet still keep the turbo spooled and the power on

torque, turbo, and my limited slip diffs are needed to get the car THROUGH
the corner in the manner i want to GET through the corner

none of the above will perform unless you've got your foot in it.

shout with any other questions

Jamie
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:48 PM   #6
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^Thanks for your answer. Makes perfect sense.

It came to my mind that (as I raced sprint karts-single gear-a LONG time ago) if I had a series of linked turns without the need for a gear change between turns, but opportunity to accelerate, I could left-foot brake for a sharper transition between acceleration, deceleration, turn-in and acceleration.

I see your point about keeping the revs up and in the boost range, also about balancing the car the way you like it. Filling Donohue's "friction circle" has always been easier for me with an auto trans. I always drive an auto using my left foot to brake, anyway. I take it you are not shifting without the clutch, but you know what assumptions do to people.

I was lucky enough to get an architect's map of CAS with all the turn radii, to estimate speeds (hence gears and rpm). Based on that, I think I see series of turns in 2nd and 3rd where I will be able to add some speed between the turns but still have to brake for the next turn, without getting outside the rev limiter. So I will see how it goes, but I think there are a couple of points at least to experiment with braking left, deja vu all over again...like the kart days with a single gear.

My Redstuffs were trashed, by the way. About 200 "racing" miles at Laguna Seca and Willow Springs and about 6000 total miles. Clear heat damage to the pads but I never felt they were fading on me. I might be insensitive. Some have said exactly that. They (the brakes) did growl a little on application since Willow Springs, but I am very happy with them as a street pad.

The Yellows also seem fine. I tend to be pretty easy on brakes on the street, braking early and keeping away from other cars. That way they can't bump you. I ran them up against the throttle a little to bed them, cure the pads some more. I look forward to CAS.

Had to change out the rotors, also. Grooves had become too deep to resurface. 41K total miles on the rotors, 24K since they were resurfaced, used OEM pads until the Redstuff. About 300 "racing miles" total. Brembos not available but B+D Automotive in Altadena got some OEM's and gave me the lower price. Anybody in my area, these guys are really good and straight shooters. They are an installer for Tire Rack, and Igor, the brake guy, has a lovely shifter kart. Russians, methinks, but Putin would not embrace them, their business belongs to them, not the state.

God bless and keep your foot in it, ma'am (that is a TX honorific, seriously)...

Best,
George
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Old 05-17-2006, 12:39 AM   #7
Subie Gal
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ahhh a little bit more on the break in on these pads:

Break in on these pads has got to be done 'right'

I never do a "to-zero" stop

and I never use "used" rotors

new pads on machined rotors or new rotors

70mph to 40mph
70mph to 40mph

repeat 4-5 times - or until the brakes grab hard (you will feel it)
let the brakes cool

this works best for me
and I've not had any rotor issues to date

I hope you have a blast at your track day adventures George

have fun, keep your foot in it, and stay shiny side up!!!

Jamie
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Old 05-17-2006, 07:15 PM   #8
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Thumbs up

Jamie,
Got it, will bed them in as you say. I have time before running CAS. Thanks for the thoughts, all of them. I will be one of the slowest cars on the track but it will be fun-it is very difficult to be unhappy on a race track. Did more thinking and computations last night and there are a couple of places at least to try LFB, no gear change between corners but room to accelerate before going back down.

Big thread in motorsports about LFB, today, not using the cluctch to shift up or down with a synchomesh trans. I love this site, so much to learn. Keeps a body alive, adds hope.

Remember to go between the trees, not over them!!

George
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Old 05-17-2006, 08:17 PM   #9
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Does anyone have any recent experience with the Greenstuff pads? I agree on the former reputation, but I'm curious to know if chnages have also been made to those.

Thanks.
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Old 05-17-2006, 08:23 PM   #10
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One other question on the Yellowstuff. What about braking from cold on winter days in the northeast (~0 F)? Will they have any friction in them?
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Old 05-18-2006, 12:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAC17
One other question on the Yellowstuff. What about braking from cold on winter days in the northeast (~0 F)? Will they have any friction in them?

I wouldn't feel comfortable at 0 F on them to be honest.

I would recommend the Redstuffs in this case, or even, the greens if you do not want the ceramic pads.

Jamie
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Old 05-18-2006, 05:58 AM   #12
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Jamie: Thanks for the comments.
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:14 AM   #13
Subie Gal
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAC17
Jamie: Thanks for the comments.

no problem.

shout with any questions

Jamie
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Old 05-18-2006, 07:18 PM   #14
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Initail bite greater than pbr ultimates, I definately like ultimates better than metal masters but if you know if any of the ebc's have better initial bite (even cold) than pbr/axxis it would be cool.
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Old 06-28-2006, 01:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie Gal
ahhh a little bit more on the break in on these pads:

Break in on these pads has got to be done 'right'

I never do a "to-zero" stop

and I never use "used" rotors

new pads on machined rotors or new rotors

70mph to 40mph
70mph to 40mph

repeat 4-5 times - or until the brakes grab hard (you will feel it)
let the brakes cool

this works best for me
and I've not had any rotor issues to date

Jamie
Is this 70 > 40 method only for the Yellows or a general rule for pad break-in? I just did my first pad/rotor change on my wife's Jetta (Duralast pad/rotor) and get that "rusted rotors after a bunch of rain" braking sensation but the car stops great and smoothly (just with that crappy noise). I was under the (incorrect) impression that you wanted gentle braking so I need to figure out how to redo the pad break-in.

What's the problem with changing pads (considering Reds for the 03 WRX) and using the stock rotors as-is?

TIA
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Old 06-28-2006, 04:01 PM   #16
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Nevermind....I looked through another 20 articles and found a link to StopTech which seems to have cleared up some confusion. Is your rotor stance personal as the StopTech site didn't seem to push new/machined rotors.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUC748
Is this 70 > 40 method only for the Yellows or a general rule for pad break-in? I just did my first pad/rotor change on my wife's Jetta (Duralast pad/rotor) and get that "rusted rotors after a bunch of rain" braking sensation but the car stops great and smoothly (just with that crappy noise). I was under the (incorrect) impression that you wanted gentle braking so I need to figure out how to redo the pad break-in.

What's the problem with changing pads (considering Reds for the 03 WRX) and using the stock rotors as-is?

TIA
I use the 70-40 method will all pad break in....

seems to work much better than 60mph "to zero" stops

You can use the stock rotors as is, but I would scuff them first with
a brillo pad, steel wool, etc. to clean off the surface for a good contact

Jamie
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:40 AM   #18
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Thanks for the very well written review. I need new pads for the rear of my L and I was looking for a set of Redstuff when I saw these in the Keystone catalog we have at Advance. I have HPS in the front, and their cold stopping power is just downright dangerous (crappy). I think that can be saved for another review though. Depending on how the feel in the rear, I might just swap out for WRX front brakes and get new pads while I'm at it.
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Old 03-16-2009, 02:29 PM   #19
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I installed a front set of EBC Yellow Stuff on my 05 WRX a couple weeks ago. Here are my impressions so far.

Good: No fade on the street. 4 runs on the highway 80mph to 20mph on the brink of lockup (locking your tires instantly at 80 is kinda scary! Never been able to do that before ), each stop was as good or better than the last.
Petal feel is better, they grab instantly compared to stockers. That doesn't make it easy to stop smoothly in very slow traffic. It offers much better confidence when you actually are braking everyday, and a committed stop is very linear. Compared to the stock non-linear where you have to continually press harder and harder exponentially just to increasing stopping power.
Almost no screeching so far, minor occasional squealing. Sure there is a peep here or there, but nothing like I expected. You always hear other (crappy) cars squeal way more than your own when the windows are down. I never hear anything with the windows up.
I would guess that on stock rotors, they generate 150% the total stopping power of stock. They easily overwhelm my snow tires in the dry, we'll see in a bit how the summer tires cope.

Bad: Yes they are more dusty, I would say it needs cleaned at least once a week, and I am very rough on them. At least as many full power 55-20mph decelerations as accelerations About 5 or more a day average.

Rotors: stock blanks from local store, plus ghetto brake ducts.

Goal and success? I want brakes more like my baby, and I would say yes I am now as confident with my brakes now. The price of pads ($90) and rotor blanks ($50) seems worth the cost compared to a larger rotor kit or something else.
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Old 03-16-2009, 05:17 PM   #20
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tell me how they are from 150-55 because the stockies have a little fade after that and some rotor blue-ing but that fades in a couple days.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:15 PM   #21
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the EBC yellows are miles ahead of the stock pads.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcompany2000 View Post
tell me how they are from 150-55 because the stockies have a little fade after that and some rotor blue-ing but that fades in a couple days.
Um... I haven't done that yet I havn't even broken 110mph yet. Well, in the Rex that is.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Snips View Post
the EBC yellows are miles ahead of the stock pads.
Yeap, your plus 1 contributed to my choice, thank you
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Old 03-17-2009, 04:40 PM   #24
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My experiences:

(Both on a 220 whp WRX, stock rotors and calipers and on an E46 M3, stock rotors and calipers, both with 255 R-comps)...

The good:

1. Cheap
2. Deal with heat well, at least with 1000 degree temps...so street tire guys shoudl be fine.
3. Easy on rotors
4. Cheap

The bad:
1. Compared to other track pads, these offer very little bite when warmed up. Quite shocking if you run them back to back with say an HT-10 or PFC-01. Not fade mind you, the were consistently rather poor after the first stop or two through most sessions.
2. They crumble in heavy duty use. Honestly, both of my sets had to be tossed with 5+mm of pad left because they were literally falling apart.
3. Odd I know, but they smell. Seriously, off the car, cold, they STINK.

Overall, not a pad for serious track guys. But if you're relatively easy on brakes, for whatever reason (new, street tires, light car, etc.) and don't mind giving up some bite...these really can't be beat for the $$$.

An acceptable starter track pad for the price.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:38 AM   #25
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Finally got the summer tires on. Once warmed up, which takes 3-4 60mph to 10mph stops, the yellowstuffs still overpower my Kuhmo MX 225's. Never heard the Kuhmo's squeal for mercy quite like that, although they wern't really "warmed up" all the way on a 75 degree day. I did a night drive though some dangerous back roads last night, and they give me so much confidence its great, as compared to the old pads. The car chasing me pulled up behind me, with smoke billowing from his brakes. Mine didn't even smell hot yet.

As for REX8's reports of smell and cold performance, I have experienced nothing of the sort. They are always better than stock when cold and progressing to outstanding once warmed up. They now rarely smell unless I get them super-hot. Still really dusty though.
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