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#1 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 84082
Join Date: Mar 2005
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The subaru manual says to regulary change brake fluid, is this an issue that one must do? or what is you guys view on this.
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#2 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 3956
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:2000 Turbo Legacy GT Titanium |
Brake fluid is Hydroscopic, meaning that it absorbs water. The older the brake fluid, the more moisture is in the fluid.
Moisture in the fluid affects many things, but on the "safety side" it lowers the boiling point of the fluid, so you can get brake fade a whooole lot earlier. Not to mention the oxidation properties of water. Brake fluid should be changed regularly. |
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#3 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 768
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: nj
Vehicle:OB, legacy, 911, ram 1500, 1098s, m620 |
+1
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#4 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30556
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Vehicle:2000 Legacy GT (BE) over 250,000 Miles |
Fluid change aint that hard.. if you need some pointers.. here are few..
-Russell Speed Bleeders are a must for single person job.. you can see from pic below how they work.. if you don't have them on your calipers, then u need 2nd buddy... -When thinking about buying fluid, consider one that's different color than what you have now so you can clearly see when fresh fluid is coming out.. -Start by pumping out fluid from reservour (as much as you can with surigne) -Add new fluid -Get clear plastic tube and put it over the bleeder screw so you can see the new fluid flowing, open the Bleeder screw (with 2 people, 2nd person will have to close it when your brake pedal is alway down to the floor) and give it few full slow pumps of brake pedal. - After 2 full pumps, check the level in reservouir, readd fluid if below the full mark - Repeat the pumping till you see new fluid coming out of caliper and don't see any bubbles. After that go to next one. Bleed in folowing order. FRONT RIGHT, REAR LEFT, FRONT LEFT, REAR RIGHT (Passanger Front, Driver Rear, Driver Front, Passanger Rear) Hope this helps. |
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#5 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 84082
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Thanks guys, I might have to do it then. I do see the point though I have not done it at 100k. I hope it is okay to do it now.
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#6 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 84082
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 38120
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Greenville, SC
Vehicle:1991 Rio Red Legacy Turbo |
I didn't realize how much crap was at the bottom of my brake MC until I FULLY bled them while changing to stainless lines last weekend......
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#8 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 92423
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: locked in the freezer
Vehicle:2002 WRX still locked in freezer |
speed bleeders are the shiz
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#9 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 45302
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Trussville AL
Vehicle:2003 WRX Wagon Midnight Black Pearl |
+1 on the speed bleeders. I am going to try to track down a set this weekend so that I can flush my (new to me) 2000 GT Ltd. Already have them on my '03 WRX.
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#10 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30556
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Vehicle:2000 Legacy GT (BE) over 250,000 Miles |
ONly thing to be carefull about when you change the fluid, DON'T SPILL IT ON PAINTED SURFACES, it is really bad for it.. take your time do it slow, even put rag all around brake cylinder.
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#11 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 38120
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Greenville, SC
Vehicle:1991 Rio Red Legacy Turbo |
Quote:
BTW, rebuilding and installing freshly-painted calipers can be a very messy undertaking. Maybe we should have cured them in the oven prior to rebuild..... ![]() |
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#12 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:1996 Legacy L wagon |
Any special precautions or anything associated with installing the speed bleeders? And what about cost of said bleeders?
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#13 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30556
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Vehicle:2000 Legacy GT (BE) over 250,000 Miles |
Quote:
Percausions?: Well don't lick your fingers.. wrap cloth around caliper so you don't get fluid all over rotors and parts under, carefull not to brake off the old bleeder, use right side socket and use both hands to remove it, after that just bleed brakes.. |
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#14 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:1996 Legacy L wagon |
Ok, I wasn't sure if once you started loosening them out all the way if they would just gush out brake fluid, so I thought maybe you had to bleed almost all the fluid out of the system, take them out, bleed all the air back out of the system, etc...
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#15 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 38120
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Greenville, SC
Vehicle:1991 Rio Red Legacy Turbo |
As long as you don't have the system pressurized when you change them, you should be fine.
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#16 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30556
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Vehicle:2000 Legacy GT (BE) over 250,000 Miles |
Yep.. when you park your car, put in neutral then just let it idle after you take ur foot off the brake it should release some of the initial preasure when you stopped then just unscrew bleeder and screw new one quick, some fluid will leak out but not much. Then just bleed the brakes like you would originally.
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#17 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 45302
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Trussville AL
Vehicle:2003 WRX Wagon Midnight Black Pearl |
Anybody know the thread pitch or OAL for the bleed screws for a 2000 GT Ltd?
I know I've got 8mm wrench fits front and back but don't know anything past that. Last edited by whpotter; 05-22-2006 at 02:59 PM. |
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#18 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30556
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Vehicle:2000 Legacy GT (BE) over 250,000 Miles |
Quote:
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#19 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 77394
Join Date: Dec 2004
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Huntersville
Vehicle:05 LGT OBP |
but the 8mm doesnt fit all model BE's, correct?
Kenda |
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#20 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30556
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Vehicle:2000 Legacy GT (BE) over 250,000 Miles |
Quote:
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#21 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 77394
Join Date: Dec 2004
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Huntersville
Vehicle:05 LGT OBP |
Quote:
CN: i'm to lazy to take off my wheels ![]() Kenda |
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#22 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 45302
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Trussville AL
Vehicle:2003 WRX Wagon Midnight Black Pearl |
Here is the reference chart from Russell. I've cropped out just the 8mm's.
PART # THREAD OVERALL LENGTH 639340 8mm x 1.0 37mm 639520 8mm x 1.25 24mm 639550 8mm x 1.0 34mm 639620 8mm x 1.25 39mm There are two different thread pitches and two OALs for each pitch. |
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#23 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 16653
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Central MA
Vehicle:2012 Mazda 3 2004 Honda Pilot |
Quote:
Is that anything like a syringe? I find that a turkey baster is ideal for this kind of fluid removal. I have a dedicated garage one... you sure don't want the automotive fluids mixed with the gravy and whatnot. ![]() |
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