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Old 06-22-2014, 04:57 PM   #1
aigochamaloh
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2009 Legacy DGM

Default 2015 WRX Amplifier and Subwoofer Install Tutorial

Alright. I couldn't find a thorough walkthrough so I took some pictures of my install today. I hate cutting OEM wiring and I refuse to cut through the firewall. I wanted my install as clean as possible while keeping the OEM headunit for now.

First, buy the 20 pin breakout harness from David here.

http://ae64.com/20-pincombinedharness.htm



I wired it with Positaps so that it is easily taken off. If you're going to be adding an aftermarket headunit, then this does not matter, as you're going to be cutting anyway.

Lockitt Posi-Tap 6pc pack #605/6 16-18 awg Blue: Amazon.com: Industrial & ScientificLockitt Posi-Tap 6pc pack #605/6 16-18 awg Blue: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


You need a line out converter (LOC) to convert the speaker level output from the headunit to a line level output for the subwoofer amp.

I used an Axxess AX-ALOC10. $6



http://axxessinterfaces.com/index.ph...products_id=21

My amplifier is a Kenwood KAC-5001PS mono amplifier.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-qo0lQkX...AC-5001PS.html

.

My subwoofer is a Kicker CompVR 12 that I had lying around. It sounds like crap now that I finished and I need to change it out.

Next, inside the cabin, you're going to take out the center stack trim. You don't need any plastic tools. There is enough of a gap up top near the multi-function display and you can just use your fingers to pry it apart. Use DOWNWARD force and pull towards you. There are four clips that will come out very smoothly. Angle the trim downward and the bottom will pop off by the AC controls. Unplug the AC harness and swing the trim up and on top of the dash (the two clips for the hazards and ENTER key are a B*$!@)



Unplug the radio harness on the left.



You will plug in the breakout harness with your prewired LOC here.



Here is the gap in the center stack that I pushed my RCA and remote turn on wires through. As you saw in the previous picture, it exits in the passenger footwell. Zip tie the cables up below the glovebox.



Run the cables behind the kickpanel. There is one clip you need to take off with a screwdriver. It's a plastic nut that holds onto a stud. One pop it clip up top, and pull the panel straight back towards you.



I took out my rear seats so I could lift trim and carpet up to route cables.



Look at the two white clips holding the seat down. You need to pull the black tabs towards the front of the car, which will release the seat.

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Last edited by aigochamaloh; 06-22-2014 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:58 PM   #2
aigochamaloh
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Take your front left wheel off and partially take off the fender liner. There are THREE (3) types of clips here. One has a phillips head and you twist to unlock, and pop off by hand. The other two, use a flathead screwdriver to pull the center out and pull the clip out by hand. Don't forget that there is one phillips head clip UNDER the car, right by the ground effects by your door.



Now you will see the huge rubber grommet that carries a large harness and the hood release cable.



Poke through with a screwdriver and make the hole large enough to pass your power cable through. Put your power cable under the hood on the right side, under the felt lining. The cable will exit under the fender liner. Then push your cable through the grommet. I pushed a 4 gauge cable here and the grommet sealed tightly.





The cable will exit in your driver footwell, right by the OBD II connector. Use a coat hanger to pull it through if your hands are big like mine.



The side door trims pop off easily. Pry at one end and work your way back. Lift up the carpet and run your cables through there. Power on the left side, RCA signal cable on the right side of your car. This is to isolate power and signal as much as possible so you do not get any noise introduced into your system.



You can pop off the center trim by your seatbelt. This will allow you enough room to grab the cable from the front.



Time to crimp and solder your cables. No need for expensive crimpers. Use channel locks, they work great. My torch is somewhere else so I used this ghetto cooking stove. Worked fine as well.



Get a 10mm bolt and install your ground cable in the trunk. There is a piece of metal with a pre-drilled hole there already.



Put all your trim back on and close up shop. Fire it up and bask in your bass awesomeness.

You can tailor this walkthrough to install any other amps, like a 4 or 5 channel amp as well. Headunit installs are cake compared to this too.

Last edited by aigochamaloh; 06-23-2014 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:58 PM   #3
aigochamaloh
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Last edited by aigochamaloh; 06-22-2014 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:09 PM   #4
Junior001
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Very nice write up. i will be doing this soon
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:00 PM   #5
bobditts
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lots of great pics. How did you secure your sub enclosure to the vehicle?
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:13 PM   #6
aigochamaloh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post
lots of great pics. How did you secure your sub enclosure to the vehicle?
I didn't secure the sub down in the trunk yet. Have to think of some way without drilling into the car somewhere. Maybe I'll make a bracket and secure it to one of the protruding nuts on the top of the trunk area.

One thing to note: I didn't realize Subaru ran fuel lines inside the car until I did this install, very interesting.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:04 PM   #7
Covert_Death
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Great write up. I will be using this guide when I install my amp and Sub when I receive delivery!

One question. where are you mounting your AMP and HOW are you mounting you amp?
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:23 PM   #8
Subie_Noob_Brian
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Here are 3 videos of mine which might help a little more than pictures.



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Old 06-24-2014, 10:12 PM   #9
cpalada
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Is the pre-drilled 10mm hole for the ground in the trunk shown on the rear tray in that last photo?
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:32 PM   #10
Covert_Death
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great videos. I had seen the first 2 but the third one gives a real nice option on amp power line that I hadn't seen before. Typically I have seen it drivers side. Thanks for the videos!
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:19 PM   #11
aigochamaloh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpalada View Post
Is the pre-drilled 10mm hole for the ground in the trunk shown on the rear tray in that last photo?
Yes it is. You may have to sand the half-painted finish down a little bit so you can get some metal contact. Or make sure your bolt/washer is unfinished/unpainted.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:21 PM   #12
aigochamaloh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie_Noob_Brian View Post
Here are 3 videos of mine which might help a little more than pictures.

http://youtu.be/Hwc_IvxD59Q

http://youtu.be/geI9nHblScw

http://youtu.be/TECl4epx6cY
Nice videos, haven't seen them before. I didn't take off any of the trim you did, other than the one over the radio. There is enough room to run wiring along both sides without having to do that much surgery!
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Old 07-12-2014, 05:48 AM   #13
aigochamaloh
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I ended up returning the sub amp and the Clarion XC1410 I had installed behind the dash. Put a 5 channel Kenwood beneath my seat.



Rat's nest with the Clarion



6 channel RCA I used



Very nice stuff



New 4 channel LOC, soldered and heat shrunk.



Speaker cable soldered and heat shrunk.



Much cleaner



Convenient cut outs in carpet.
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Old 07-12-2014, 04:43 PM   #14
millertime359
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How did you route your cables for the underseat install? Was the 12' RCA cable too long?

I'm planning a similar setup with my '14 impreza sport, except I plan to use the JL 700/5V2.
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Old 07-12-2014, 09:02 PM   #15
aigochamaloh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359 View Post
How did you route your cables for the underseat install? Was the 12' RCA cable too long?

I'm planning a similar setup with my '14 impreza sport, except I plan to use the JL 700/5V2.
Yes, the 12' cable is very long. I wrapped it and zip tied the extra beneath the seat. I ran my cables down the center console, then put it underneath the carpet on the drivers side. The carpet comes up to e-brake area on the center console. You can stuff it in there, then pull the cable through by sticking your hand in the cutout in the carpet.

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Old 01-20-2015, 12:00 PM   #16
cole_naymash
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Hi There,

Does anyone know if Dave Carter is still making these harnesses? I emailed him this weekend and haven't heard back yet. I'm guessing he is just busy but thought I would see if I will have to start poking around elsewhere for this,

Thanks
Cole
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:47 PM   #17
bobditts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cole_naymash View Post
Hi There,

Does anyone know if Dave Carter is still making these harnesses? I emailed him this weekend and haven't heard back yet. I'm guessing he is just busy but thought I would see if I will have to start poking around elsewhere for this,

Thanks
Cole

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2627068

this thread should be of some use.
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Old 03-06-2015, 05:07 PM   #18
lopezchris21
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Hey sorry to bother man and sorry if this question is pure ignorance or lazyness. What colors did you hook up the converter and remote to? On work somputer and i cant see pics.

Thanks for your time.
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Old 03-06-2015, 06:29 PM   #19
Smengineer
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Running the power wire thought the wheel well has more possibilities for issues down the road. Very surprised with that decision. The firewall has a rubber plug and is located near the brake pedal. Both ways work, the wheel well is usually a last resort or for large wire sizes. Good job though
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Old 03-06-2015, 07:08 PM   #20
freefallnick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smengineer View Post
Running the power wire thought the wheel well has more possibilities for issues down the road. Very surprised with that decision. The firewall has a rubber plug and is located near the brake pedal. Both ways work, the wheel well is usually a last resort or for large wire sizes. Good job though

I was wondering what option there is for people that don't want to remove the wheel. Is the rubber plug easy to find? Would rather go that route as long as the wire doesn't poke through anywhere near where you would be pressing the pedals down.
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Old 03-06-2015, 07:31 PM   #21
psyclobe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aigochamaloh View Post
I didn't secure the sub down in the trunk yet. Have to think of some way without drilling into the car somewhere. Maybe I'll make a bracket and secure it to one of the protruding nuts on the top of the trunk area.

One thing to note: I didn't realize Subaru ran fuel lines inside the car until I did this install, very interesting.
Some simple velcro pads work wonders
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:05 PM   #22
millertime359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smengineer View Post
Running the power wire thought the wheel well has more possibilities for issues down the road. Very surprised with that decision. The firewall has a rubber plug and is located near the brake pedal. Both ways work, the wheel well is usually a last resort or for large wire sizes. Good job though
Care to explain what issues could arise from this?
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:18 PM   #23
bobditts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smengineer View Post
Running the power wire thought the wheel well has more possibilities for issues down the road. Very surprised with that decision. The firewall has a rubber plug and is located near the brake pedal. Both ways work, the wheel well is usually a last resort or for large wire sizes. Good job though
well its a good thing the factory wires dont run there...... er..... oh wait.... they do.
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:21 PM   #24
bobditts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclobe View Post
Some simple velcro pads work wonders
unless you are in an accident. You always have to think worst case scenario. Velcro wont do crap if a collision occurs. Bolt that sucker down.
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:51 PM   #25
Cefaln452
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who lotta wow in here.
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