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Old 01-24-2015, 03:53 AM   #1
dskav
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Default 2015 WRX rear deck sound deadening

Hey all, just did some sound deadening on my rear deck and figured I'd post some pics for those looking to do the same thing, or remove the rear deck for any other reason since I didn't see any other pics on the forum. It's pretty straight forward but hope this helps some folks.

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU CAUSE ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR CAR OR SCREW ANYTHING UP, THIS IS SIMPLY AN INFORMATIONAL POST ON MY OWN PROJECT.

First off, as a safety precaution I disconnected the battery since there are airbags in the c-pillars and I was also messing with some electrical connections for this project.

You have to remove the c-pillar trim before removing the rear deck. Here are some pics of the mounting clip locations on the c-pillars as well as the rear deck itself.

This pic is for the driver's side c-pillar. It's mirrored on the passenger's side.


Here's the rear deck with its mounting clips circled. Sorry I didn't get both sides, but the other side mirrors the one shown.


The mounting clips were a little loose so to prevent any rattles there, I cut some thin strips of duct tape to wrap around the clips, then re-inserted them. The width of the roll of duct tape turned out to be perfect, and the clips are much more secure now.




Here is where the 7 clips go into the rear deck.




All of the black clips that hold the wires look just like the one pictured below on the back. You have to push on both sides where the red arrows are to push them through. Some of them are pretty tricky to get out, the best advice I can give is be careful and take your time getting them out. I managed not to break any of them, but barely. The yellow arrow is the trunk light, once the harness is unplugged you just have to rotate it and it comes right out.


Bolt sizes: all the smaller bolts (airbag wires, keyless entry unit) are 10mm, the bolts for the 3 child seat hooks are 13mm, and the 2 bolts for the middle seat belt are 14mm.
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Last edited by dskav; 01-24-2015 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 01-24-2015, 03:58 AM   #2
dskav
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Here are the final results of my deadening. Sorry the pics aren't that great, it was dark out by the time I finished. Most of the yellow you see is more duct tape that I put on the top of the child seat hooks, as well as bolt heads, to try to minimize any metal-on-plastic rattles there. Not the best solution admitedly but so far it's been successful. As you can see I didn't do 100% coverage, and don't have the "cleanest" layout of deadening but was trying to be as efficient as possible with using extra pieces/scraps. Anyhow it's been working great thus far.







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Old 01-27-2015, 09:30 AM   #3
xtremelumina92
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Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to do this write up.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:42 AM   #4
bobditts
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great job man. for anyone else looking to do this in the future, this link might assist in addition to this great write up.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...k-parcel-shelf
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:59 AM   #5
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How much difference did you notice? Have you done the floor of the trunk as well?

Which sound deadening did you use? very tempted to give this a go as the in cabin noise is annoying the crap out of me
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:11 AM   #6
iainb
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Great write-up, thanks for posting it!
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post
great job man. for anyone else looking to do this in the future, this link might assist in addition to this great write up.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...k-parcel-shelf
^ Good post ^ I purchased all of my sound deadening products from him. Actually picked them up in person and met Don (he runs the site) and he is a good guy.
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:13 PM   #8
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thanks guys, glad some people find the post helpful


Quote:
Originally Posted by acemastr View Post
How much difference did you notice? Have you done the floor of the trunk as well?

Which sound deadening did you use? very tempted to give this a go as the in cabin noise is annoying the crap out of me
i haven't done any other deadening yet besides the deck. i've noticed a huge difference, mostly in the rattles department. i had tried the simple 3rd brakelight fix others have mentioned on this forum, but still had a lot of rattles from other spots on the rear deck. zero rattles now. it did also help noticeably with the sound level from the trunk.

i used stinger roadkill, read some good reviews and i got it for a good price. as you can tell from the post i'm not going for anything near competition-type deadening so i just wanted something quality for a decent price. i'll be using the same stuff on all 4 doors (and maybe elsewhere depending on how much i have left) when i install my new system.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:25 AM   #9
Roper215
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Default Removal

Hey, can you go into the specifics of how you removed the shelf.

I understand that the C pillars are removed first, I am referencing the method in which you began the process for the removal of the shelf.

"un-clip" the front lip of the shelf, but when I tried to pop it free, I could very clearly hear what sounded like metal fatique. I do not want to destroy the shelf or the panel.

Can you "tap" the one way fasteners from the bottom side to "break" them free?

Thanks,

-Roper215
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:35 AM   #10
dskav
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roper215 View Post
Hey, can you go into the specifics of how you removed the shelf.

I understand that the C pillars are removed first, I am referencing the method in which you began the process for the removal of the shelf.

"un-clip" the front lip of the shelf, but when I tried to pop it free, I could very clearly hear what sounded like metal fatique. I do not want to destroy the shelf or the panel.

Can you "tap" the one way fasteners from the bottom side to "break" them free?

Thanks,

-Roper215
sorry for the delay, been swamped lately. as for how i removed it, after unclipping the front of the shelf, i started with the near outside clips (the ones near the yellow side airbag wiring) on each side and worked my way to the middle from each side. i wouldn't be concerned about damaging any of the metal underneath the shelf. no special tricks, just tried to get as close to the clip before applying pressure. i tried to push them out from the bottom side but that didn't work out for me. just take your time and be careful, but some of the clips do take a bit of elbow grease to get out. hope that helps!
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:08 PM   #11
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I just installed a 10" sub and the rattling is annoying as hell, especially the 3rd brake light. I did my trunk lid so far. Haven't had time to do the other things yet but did you do anything to your 3rd brake light? Also how is that held on? thank you
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:07 PM   #12
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I took out the center seatbelt when I did this, the seatbelt module itself was rattling. Very annoying.
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Old 04-14-2015, 07:00 PM   #13
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I'm having this problem as well,I'm about to rip off the plastic piece! Do the 2 holes on each side of the rear deck go directly into the trunk ? I might use those as ports if so.
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Old 04-14-2015, 07:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karb0n View Post
I'm having this problem as well,I'm about to rip off the plastic piece! Do the 2 holes on each side of the rear deck go directly into the trunk ? I might use those as ports if so.
Yes those 2 holes on each side goes directly into the trunk
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWrx15 View Post
Yes those 2 holes on each side goes directly into the trunk
Nice! Definitely using those as ports.That should help getting more air into the cabin,The W7 seems to be a monster
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Old 05-05-2015, 08:14 PM   #16
dskav
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWrx15 View Post
I just installed a 10" sub and the rattling is annoying as hell, especially the 3rd brake light. I did my trunk lid so far. Haven't had time to do the other things yet but did you do anything to your 3rd brake light? Also how is that held on? thank you
I didn't do anything special to the 3rd brake light, hasn't really been an issue
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWrx15 View Post
I just installed a 10" sub and the rattling is annoying as hell, especially the 3rd brake light. I did my trunk lid so far. Haven't had time to do the other things yet but did you do anything to your 3rd brake light? Also how is that held on? thank you
I had a similar rattle. Fixed it by applying 3/8" weather stripping with electrical tape. Attached it to the plastic clips on the rear of the brake light (you could also go the other way and attach weather stripping or similar material to the metal of the rear deck underneath these clips). This tightened up the fit of the brake light significantly. Before it had a lot of slop just moving it around with your fingers. Now it's a much more solid fit.
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Old 05-09-2015, 06:20 PM   #18
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Big thank you to the thread starter.

Do you guys know what is the black box on the picture number 6 from the top (small thing attached to the metal).. seems to be related to the air bags
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:54 PM   #19
dskav
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOLM View Post
Big thank you to the thread starter.

Do you guys know what is the black box on the picture number 6 from the top (small thing attached to the metal).. seems to be related to the air bags
you're welcome, glad it's helpful.

sorry but not too sure what the black box is. might be for the airbags, maybe something having to do w/the alarm system
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Old 06-29-2015, 01:05 PM   #20
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Thanks for the write up! Will be attempting this soon as I ordered 40 sq/ft of deadening. I intend to do the doors, trunk, and rear deck. I'm no audio head but figured it would help in quieting the car for now. Intend to add some sound components in the future. As for now, only have an upgraded HU.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:56 PM   #21
Subie FA20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunz559 View Post
Thanks for the write up! Will be attempting this soon as I ordered 40 sq/ft of deadening. I intend to do the doors, trunk, and rear deck. I'm no audio head but figured it would help in quieting the car for now. Intend to add some sound components in the future. As for now, only have an upgraded HU.
You might need more than that. I had 50 sq ft. when i did my '12 WRX and was 2/3 way done with the trunk when i ran out. However, i did do all the doors, rear deck, trunk lid
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:49 PM   #22
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Running a axleback muffler delete I definitely want to do my spare tire well. Need to do a bit more research but this is a great addition to what I was considering doing. I'm pretty much done modding the car but I wouldn't mind cleaning it up a bit and quieting things down. Thanks for the write up.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie FA20 View Post
You might need more than that. I had 50 sq ft. when i did my '12 WRX and was 2/3 way done with the trunk when i ran out. However, i did do all the doors, rear deck, trunk lid
Thanks for the suggestion. Originally when I ordered I thought I was only going to do the doors and the trunk lid. But now that I'm thinking of doing more, may put in another order.
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:53 PM   #24
bobditts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie FA20 View Post
You might need more than that. I had 50 sq ft. when i did my '12 WRX and was 2/3 way done with the trunk when i ran out. However, i did do all the doors, rear deck, trunk lid

you ran out because you were trying to cover every square inch of the metal with the stuff. This is extreme overkill. When applied properly, 50ft^2 is more than enough.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post
you ran out because you were trying to cover every square inch of the metal with the stuff. This is extreme overkill. When applied properly, 50ft^2 is more than enough.
You're right but my car sounded like a Caddy when the doors shut. Haha
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