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Old 04-13-2012, 12:19 AM   #601
SVXdc
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See this thread:
Forester 2009 / Impreza 2008 wiring for VSS, Rear Gear, and +12V Ignition On
Applies to 2008-2011 Impreza and 2009-2011 Forester. Probably your 2012 too.

Someone wisely suggested this: If you need to test wires, use a good digital meter, not a dumb 12V test light. There may be airbag wires lurking, and you don't want to set anything off.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:36 PM   #602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
See this thread:
Forester 2009 / Impreza 2008 wiring for VSS, Rear Gear, and +12V Ignition On
Applies to 2008-2011 Impreza and 2009-2011 Forester. Probably your 2012 too.

Someone wisely suggested this: If you need to test wires, use a good digital meter, not a dumb 12V test light. There may be airbag wires lurking, and you don't want to set anything off.
Yeah I saw that picture and cringed...
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:27 AM   #603
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Okay probably a stupid question, but I need to be sure before installing my factory sub. I have a 2003 WRX, bought a used sub, came with the harness. The harness has a grey wire (I'm assuming ground to the radio) with a loop @ the end. The loop is actually missing on my harness. I can probably find a similar part at radio shack or something, but is that needed. It feels like the previous owner had the end of the wire with the missing loop taped off. Thanks.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:23 PM   #604
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Hey there. I an looking into a new head unit and I an wondering if there is any way to retain the plugs ( USB and aux) in the center consol of my 2011 ,wrx. Thanks alot. I tired to flip thru the pages of this thread but there are alot of pages lol so I apologize if you have already answered this question. Thanks a lot

-Rick
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:04 PM   #605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmount View Post
Okay probably a stupid question, but I need to be sure before installing my factory sub. I have a 2003 WRX, bought a used sub, came with the harness. The harness has a grey wire (I'm assuming ground to the radio) with a loop @ the end. The loop is actually missing on my harness. I can probably find a similar part at radio shack or something, but is that needed. It feels like the previous owner had the end of the wire with the missing loop taped off. Thanks.
IIRC isn't the OEM sub in that year a plug and play T harness?

Quote:
Originally Posted by subiewrx11 View Post
Hey there. I an looking into a new head unit and I an wondering if there is any way to retain the plugs ( USB and aux) in the center consol of my 2011 ,wrx. Thanks alot. I tired to flip thru the pages of this thread but there are alot of pages lol so I apologize if you have already answered this question. Thanks a lot

-Rick
I've personally done it on the 2010 that had the media box under the passenger seat. I would imagine that it can be done on the 2011.

after some digging..

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1&postcount=18
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:32 PM   #606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmount View Post
[factory sub into 2003 WRX]... bought a used sub, came with the harness. The harness has a grey wire ... with a loop @ the end. The loop is actually missing on my harness. ... is that needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
IIRC isn't the OEM sub in that year a plug and play T harness?
Yes, the OEM harness should be a T-harness. Near the HU, there is an extra branch on the ground wire (yes, grey color). It originally had a ring terminal, intended to be attached to one of the mounting screws on the side of the HU. That ground connection is optional, but recommended. See pictures in this post.

On the other hand, if your T-harness has an extra branch with a black 8-pin plug, that plug has a short gray wire looped between two pins (see pictures in the next post in that thread -- #5). That loop wire may be needed to enable the HU's subwoofer output. If your T-harness has that plug, what is the model number printed on the front of your HU?
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:43 PM   #607
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SVXdc,

do you make a factory style subwoofer harness? I want to install an Infinity basslink in my 2012 Impreza, but I don't really want to change out HU's. I think the factory harness is way overpriced for this purpose.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:43 PM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
SVXdc,

do you make a factory style subwoofer harness? I want to install an Infinity basslink in my 2012 Impreza, but I don't really want to change out HU's. I think the factory harness is way overpriced for this purpose.
I have this combined 20-pin combined "breakout" harness. You can connect the BassLink's speaker harness to that.

Last edited by SVXdc; 04-20-2012 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:15 PM   #609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
I have this combined 20-pin combined "breakout" harness. You can connect the BassLink's speaker harness to that.

i saw that after I posted, i assume I would just tap off the speaker wires on that and make a run to the basslink?
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:03 AM   #610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
Yes, the OEM harness should be a T-harness. Near the HU, there is an extra branch on the ground wire (yes, grey color). It originally had a ring terminal, intended to be attached to one of the mounting screws on the side of the HU. That ground connection is optional, but recommended. See pictures in this post.

On the other hand, if your T-harness has an extra branch with a black 8-pin plug, that plug has a short gray wire looped between two pins (see pictures in the next post in that thread -- #5). That loop wire may be needed to enable the HU's subwoofer output. If your T-harness has that plug, what is the model number printed on the front of your HU?
It was a "new style" harness with the black 8 pin connector that messed me up in the end. I attached another terminal loop to the gray grounding wire - Subaru didn't leave too much play in that line - and ended up bridging the orange and purple wires as recommended in other threads. Works great, now just have to get the sound level all set. Thanks
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:25 PM   #611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
You may wind up needing ground loop isolators. I haven't seen schematics of the Mc amp, so I don't know how they do it.

@CSVT- Why no sticky? I don't know -- you'd have to ask the admins.

thanks SVXdc! i just got around to rewiring the system this past weekend, and it's back to the original level of noise. do you recommend any particular ground loop isolator? any better luck with one particular brand or anything? i've never used them before, as i've always just seen them as a bandaid, but in this case, it might be necessary, since i've tried all kinds of different grounding schemes. thanks again for your help thus far!
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:50 PM   #612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
Sorry redwagon didn't see you had tried some of that already... Here's what I would do if after utilizing the DIN grounds I still had noise.

If you follow aftermarket wire color standards

White
FL (+) -> Pin 1
FL (-) -> Pin 2

Gray
FR (+) -> Pin 3
FR (-) -> Pin 4

Green
RL (+) -> Pin 7
RL (-) -> Pin 8

Purple
RR (+) -> Pin 11
RR (-) -> Pin 13

Remote turn on (+) -> Pin 5

HU Ground (-) -> Pin 6 & 12

If that has noise I would go purchase a ISVE61, typically found at bestbuy and put it between the radio and the RCA connections. This should eliminate noise/pops and allow you to dial in the proper input level for the OEM amp when using an aftermarket radio. ISVE61 will require you to use the radios High level output (the wires coming off the plug, not the RCAs) for input into it, and then you'll use rca output from the ISVE61 to your DIN cable audio connections.


Or my better question to you, why not just bypass the OEM amp and run it all off the new radio? (at least I'm assuming you're using a new radio) Upgrade to a small amp to run your OEM sub.



Did you see this post, seemed promising... ??
http://nzlamb.wordpress.com/2010/06/...n/#comment-171

Also, should be starting a new thread for this discussion?

thanks CSVT for your help! i really appreciate it. as written in my last post, i just rewired the system to be as noisy as it was originally. so it's currently wired with the RCA (+)'s going to DIN input (+)'s, and RCA shields going to the DIN's respective (-)'s, and the DIN's shield to ground on the chassis.

at this point, i'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the RCA signal - when i disconnect the RCA's, but the headuint and the amp are all on, there's no noise. then i connect the RCA's and there's the whine. so i'm looking into ground lop isolators, or other capacitor devices, like the one you mentioned from Best Buy. but i'm confused on how you suggest wiring it up. so the way i'm reading it is to wire up the speaker outputs of the Clarion headunit into the ISVE61, and then the RCA outputs of the ISVE61 into the home made RCA/DIN cable, into the OEM McIntosh amp. is this correct?

to answer your question - i want to reuse the OEM MC amp, because it's supposed to be EQ'd for this car, and it sounds really great actually. also, since it's already wired to the speakers and throughout the car, i wouldn't need to pull off any panels, carpet, dash, etc to run wired to each of the doors. also, i wouldn't have to buy a small sub amp to power the little sub back there. and lastly, i'm probably going to be selling the car soon, so i'm not really wanting to put all that much time/hardware into this car just to have a working 'radio' to sell the car with.

now, to qualify when i say the factory speakers and amp sound pretty good, i'll mention that i've spent the last 15 years or so, as a recording engineer, where i've spent time all over the country in studios where they spend millions of dollars getting the acoustics of their rooms absolutely perfect. 12+ hours a day in front of studio monitors futzing over a little spike in the 4Khz range, etc. so while the factory MC system isn't perfect by any means, i'm not just looking for something loud, or for my system to 'bump'. and it has a very warm quality in it's 700Hz to 8Khz range that is pretty hard to find in cheap amps that would cost what i would spend on a stereo in this car. it certainly sounds better than a $100 multichannel Kenwood amp, or something similar would in it's place.

sorry for the wall of text, but it seems like the internet is obsessed with proving where you're coming from. so that's where i'm coming from! and again, thanks so much for your help here with the wiring, i definitely appreciate it greatly!
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:02 PM   #613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil'redwagon View Post
thanks SVXdc! i just got around to rewiring the system this past weekend, and it's back to the original level of noise. do you recommend any particular ground loop isolator? any better luck with one particular brand or anything? i've never used them before, as i've always just seen them as a bandaid, but in this case, it might be necessary, since i've tried all kinds of different grounding schemes. thanks again for your help thus far!
PAC has a nice unit, with a 1:1.1 transformer in it to overcome losses.

You can find it cheaper elsewhere, IIRC:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-A9kIiWw...PAC-SNI-1.html
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:08 PM   #614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil'redwagon View Post
thanks CSVT for your help! i really appreciate it. as written in my last post, i just rewired the system to be as noisy as it was originally. so it's currently wired with the RCA (+)'s going to DIN input (+)'s, and RCA shields going to the DIN's respective (-)'s, and the DIN's shield to ground on the chassis.

at this point, i'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the RCA signal - when i disconnect the RCA's, but the headuint and the amp are all on, there's no noise. then i connect the RCA's and there's the whine. so i'm looking into ground lop isolators, or other capacitor devices, like the one you mentioned from Best Buy. but i'm confused on how you suggest wiring it up. so the way i'm reading it is to wire up the speaker outputs of the Clarion headunit into the ISVE61, and then the RCA outputs of the ISVE61 into the home made RCA/DIN cable, into the OEM McIntosh amp. is this correct?

to answer your question - i want to reuse the OEM MC amp, because it's supposed to be EQ'd for this car, and it sounds really great actually. also, since it's already wired to the speakers and throughout the car, i wouldn't need to pull off any panels, carpet, dash, etc to run wired to each of the doors. also, i wouldn't have to buy a small sub amp to power the little sub back there. and lastly, i'm probably going to be selling the car soon, so i'm not really wanting to put all that much time/hardware into this car just to have a working 'radio' to sell the car with.

now, to qualify when i say the factory speakers and amp sound pretty good, i'll mention that i've spent the last 15 years or so, as a recording engineer, where i've spent time all over the country in studios where they spend millions of dollars getting the acoustics of their rooms absolutely perfect. 12+ hours a day in front of studio monitors futzing over a little spike in the 4Khz range, etc. so while the factory MC system isn't perfect by any means, i'm not just looking for something loud, or for my system to 'bump'. and it has a very warm quality in it's 700Hz to 8Khz range that is pretty hard to find in cheap amps that would cost what i would spend on a stereo in this car. it certainly sounds better than a $100 multichannel Kenwood amp, or something similar would in it's place.

sorry for the wall of text, but it seems like the internet is obsessed with proving where you're coming from. so that's where i'm coming from! and again, thanks so much for your help here with the wiring, i definitely appreciate it greatly!
1. Do not get ground loop isolators. I know they fix the issue, BUT they are just a bandaid for an issue and you loose some audio levels. Lets figure this out.
2. Yes, that is the way the ISVE61 is tied in. [HU high level] --> [ISVE61 High Level IN]-[ISVE61]-[ISVE61 Low Level OUT] --> [MC Amp] The ISVE61 will be labeled input and output on it, it will come with 2 wires plugs, and 1 rca plug. You'll use the wire plug on the input, and the RCA on the output.
3. Not that you're going to do this, but an amp bypass would be super simple, you just have to unplug the output of the amp and use a harness and some speed cable to extend it up to the dash where the radio is to bypass. I know you don't want to do this, I just want to clarify that you don't necessarily have to run new wires to every speaker location. Yes you would loose the "sub" but you could always get a small 100watt amp to get it going again, or some bass shakers (aka giant vibrators)
4. I don't really care about your reasons, everyone has their reasons, I'm just interested in getting your setup playing properly the way you want it.
5. Do you have a headphone to RCA adapter that you can plug into a ipod or other mp3 playing device to put audio into the amp from another source? You'll still have to power on the amp with either a jumper or the radio, but can we get audio from another source for testing. If you can test that, and we have no problems, we know 2 things. The amp has no issues, and the radio is the issue.
6. If the prior step is successful, my next thought is that the radio has an internal ground issue which I've seen on pioneer decks ( yes I realize you have a Clarion, this is an example to relate). Pioneer is notorious for using a pico fuse on it's rcas, which leads to issues with noise, buzzing, etc when it pops. You can have it replaced, or do what most do, and solder a jumper ground from a ground spot to the RCA ground.
Here are some pages with info about it and things like it.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...rs-rca-ground/
http://bcae1.com/images/rca/temporar...eldrepair.html
7. So from my previous post you hooked the 6 and 12 pins to ground from the radio, not the RCA grounds correct?
8. Lets go ahead and also check that the amp is grounded good as well, have you checked to make sure the amp is ground are clear of any rust/corrosion?
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:07 AM   #615
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After a long hiatus from car audio (1997) I am looking to install a sub and amp in my 02 Impreza while retaining the stock head unit. What are the easiest ways to perform this type of install these days? It's been a long time and I'm sure things have come a long way since the 90's.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:20 PM   #616
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After a long hiatus from car audio (1997) I am looking to install a sub and amp in my 02 Impreza while retaining the stock head unit. What are the easiest ways to perform this type of install these days? It's been a long time and I'm sure things have come a long way since the 90's.
LOC = Line output converter, takes speaker output to RCA for amp
AMP
SUBS
WIRES
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:49 AM   #617
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Does the HD radio in the 2012 Impreza support SAT input, or do you have to use an aftermarket option or a radio from a 2011?
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:50 PM   #618
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Not sure if it will support a factory sat tuner you could use the Isimple gateway and the SCC1 Sirius tuner with it.
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:53 PM   #619
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Originally Posted by big_mac127 View Post
Not sure if it will support a factory sat tuner you could use the Isimple gateway and the SCC1 Sirius tuner with it.
if i was going to get that then i might as well just get the XM Lynx tuner with bluetooth output and use the base radio in my Sport Premium.
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:11 PM   #620
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Except the lynx is a portable unit where what I mentioned would be factory integration
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:39 PM   #621
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Except the lynx is a portable unit where what I mentioned would be factory integration
but doesn't the radio need to support SAT? i have the base premium radio offered in this years Impreza, not even sure it has a lcd screen. isimple gateway says it doesn't support the 2012 impreza
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:01 PM   #622
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What's the year and model of the car, I'll run out to the sales floor and check compatibility for you.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:39 PM   #623
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anyone know if the only difference between the "premium" radio on the 2012 forester and 2012 Impreza is the "SAT" button, otherwise they look identical. does the forester have the line out too for the sub? part number PF-3297B-A

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-01-2012 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:47 AM   #624
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anyone know if the only difference between the "premium" radio on the 2012 forester and 2012 Impreza is the "SAT" button, otherwise they look identical. does the forester have the line out too for the sub? part number PF-3297B-A
I'm going to disagree with that statement..... The wiring is different for sure.

2012 limited
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2298834

2012 base
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2312813
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:29 PM   #625
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I'm going to disagree with that statement..... The wiring is different for sure.

2012 limited
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2298834

2012 base
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2312813
i'm talking about the base "premium" radio on both, not the HD or NAV offerings.

for 40.00 I'm buying one

Impreza:


Forester:



Quote:
2008-up Pin-out

Pin assignments:

Quote:
2008-up Imprezas:

1 - Aux Input - Left
2 - Aux Input - Right
3 - NC
4 - NC

5 - Aux Input - Audio Ground
6 - Aux input enable
7 - NC
8 - NC
Quote:
2009-up Foresters:

1 - Aux Input - Left
2 - Aux Input - Right
3 - Subwoofer amp remote turn-on
4 - Subwoofer out + (line level, balanced)*

5 - Aux Input - Audio Ground
6 - Aux input enable
7 - Subwoofer out Audio Ground
8 - Subwoofer out - (inverted) (line level, balanced)*

* Starting in 2009, the subwoofer output on Forester radios (when present) changed to line-level. The sub out may not be present on any USDM cars. Originally I thought radios in 2008-up Imprezas had this too, but it appears that Foresters that did not have the rear powered sub and all Imprezas get a slightly different radio that does not have the sub output.

When present, the subwoofer output is balanced mono line-level. Pin 4 is in phase with the speaker outputs and pin 8 is inverted (180 out of phase). The powered sub amp uses the two together to reduce noise. When connecting to most aftermarket equipment, you'll want to use only the + signal.

Starting in 2008, Subaru Impreza/WRX/STI/Outback Sport without Navi radios changed to a new 20-pin connector for speakers and power. Foresters also switched in 2009.
Quote:
Note: The face of this radio (as well as the Navi) is 8" wide -- 1" wider than standard DIN (7"). The body is still standard double-DIN size (7" x 4"). This radio will not fit in previous years without significant mods to the dash.

If you replace the radio with a single- or double-DIN HU, you'll need either an aftermarket dash kit to fill the gaps, or a JDM fascia/bezel that has a standard double-DIN sized opening. See this post.
Front of non-Navi radio:

.

Rear:


(click for larger image)

Connectors from left to right:

Motorola antenna jack
20-pin (top) for Subaru iPod interface or satellite radio tuner. Could also be for an external CD changer (although I'm not aware of any being available).
8-pin (bottom) Aux input. Also (on HU in some Foresters only) subwoofer output
Chassis ground lug
20-pin connector for power, speakers, SWC, and CAN

Close-up of car's new-style 20-pin power/speaker harness plug:


(click for larger image)

20-pin socket on the back of a factory radio:


(click for larger image)

The connector has two rows of 9 smaller pins, plus two larger pins on the far left and right sides.

More pictures of a 2008 non-Navi radio in this post (#12)

20 pin connector pin numbers:
.
This is Subaru's numbering scheme for the car's harness (same orientation as above picture of car's harness plug).

Pin-out table for the radio connector, with factory wire colors for 2008 Impreza/WRX/STI and 2009 Forester

Notes:

The radio harness in 2007-up Nissans is mostly the same as 2008-up Subarus. The harness manufacturers made their install harnesses for Nissans first, so they didn't bother coming up with a different version (or even a different part number) for Subarus.

None of the aftermarket harness manufacturers includes the wires for Subaru's audio Steering Wheel Controls (SWCs), CAN data bus, or Dimmer (Illumination -). In some cases they don't even include the ground wire (which the Nissan factory harness doesn't have). If you need harnesses that include all of the Illumination, SWC, and CAN wires, e-mail me for more info (click my username for link, or see my homepage).

On Subarus, pin 9 is for the antenna booster amplifier. However, on Nissans that use this connector, pin 9 is for OEM amplifier remote turn-on. Since Nissans came earlier, many aftermarket installation harnesses have a Blue/White wire at pin 9 (the standard color for amp turn-on). In Subarus you must connect this to a wire on your HU that will provide +12V when you're listening to AM/FM (usually a Blue wire for "power antenna"). See notes on "Antenna Control Pin" in post #2, above.

If you have the OEM subwoofer, be aware that its T-harness is what you'll see plugged into the back of the radio, and it has completely different colors. Follow the T-harness back deeper into the dash to find the car's radio harness. See subwoofer notes in post #4, above.


Subwoofer output

2009 Forester (and possibly other models) added a line-level subwoofer output to the radio's 8-pin connector "i86" (in addition to the pins for Aux input). The sub out is balanced (has ground, positive, and inverted signals -- NOT left/right). See previous post for new pin-out. Unlike in earlier years, the Forester rear-cargo sub has a built-in powered amplifier.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...2&postcount=10
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...2&postcount=11

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-02-2012 at 06:15 PM.
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