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Old 04-25-2006, 08:03 AM   #1
spazegun2213
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Default RaceComp Engineering Kool Brake Kit Installation

Alright, after hearing so much about this product i decided that we are in need of an install/how-to page. I'm going to do this in 3 sections, installing the ducts, installing the hose, and my opinion and possible improvements. You can find out more about the kit here


First installing the ducts:


tools:
19mm box wrench
12mm socket
a box (or something to rest caliper on)
loctite

(I have pictures but i dont have them uploaded just yet)
1) You will probably want to put the front of the car up on jacks and remove the wheels.
2) Take the 19mm box wrench and remove the two bolts holding the caliper on. (note on the 05 the top bolt might hit the bottom bolt that mounts the strut to the knuckle, on the 06 there was no problem)

3) Place the caliper on the box so that its not hanging from the brake line and remove rotor.
(as stated, i just used a box)

4) Remove the 3 12mm bolts holding the dust sheild in place.
5) Attach the KBK duct. It mounts with the two lower bolts of the dust sheild. I also used a little loctite to make sure they would not come off.

6) Replace rotor, and caliper. On the two caliper bolts i again used loctite (its better to be safe than sorry when it comes to brakes )

you are now done!!!!
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Last edited by spazegun2213; 04-25-2006 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 04-25-2006, 08:03 AM   #2
spazegun2213
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installing the hose

This is more of a proof of concept post more than a definitive mounting guide. so take what i say with a grain of salt I offer no warranty of any sort as well

tools:
flat head screwdriver fo tighten clamps
zipties
inlet for the duct (ie jdm fogs or whatever)


instructions are not going to be step by step, but more of a discussion. We tackled routing the hose from the duct to the inlet. Frist we attached the hose to the duct and tried figure out where we could route it at full lock. I realize that "Race cars" will hardly ever see full lock but I know some people (like me) will put these on their daily drivers. We needed a friendly solution for people and we toyed with a idea that poeple could just install them at the track and remove them for the road.

sorry i got a little off topic, but these are problems we face. now, at full inside lock (ie the wheel is at 100% left turn on the right side) there was barely enough room to pass the hose from the duct so that if would not scrape on the wheel. This was the BIGGEST problem we found and even our "solution" may not work on wheels with a larger offset then stock, or wider wheels (but we did not test this today).

what we found that works on the 06 (*should* work on an 05 since the suspension is the same, but i dont know about an 04) look at where the mount for the endlink is on the tie rod.


we found that you can run the hose "under" that like so




you will probably need to zip tie them here. This might get a little tricky as you need to see how much hose is needed at the oppsite full lock and ziptie to that it gets the hose length. we tested this and there is just enough room when the hose is all to accomidate the hose from lock to lock.

next run the hose down the lateral link, towards the rear of the car like so


you are going to need to zip tie it there as well. Any further forward then this and the hose rubs agains the wheel. now, from this location you can start running the hose forward along the subframe like so
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMG_2721.jpg

ziptie it as you need. You will be getting short of hose by now, as with a 4 ft section we got to here, and ran out
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMG_2722.jpg

you can see that its REALLY close to the front of the car, but to run it into the fog light covers you need more hose. we used the other section of hose so see just how much we would need (note we used a 3 foot section here for a total of 7 feet of hose):


thats a good 1-2 feet more, but that again we did NO cutting, and I'm sure you can make it shorter by cutting. Again this part of the hose does not need to be the high heat stuff, so go to home depot and get some other ducting and use that (thats what we would do)

speaking of cutting, you WILL have to cut some plastic on the 06 to get them to fit (i'm sure its the same on the 04-05 as well). the best place we found to cut was the begining of the fender liner right behind and below the fog light covers.


the piece of black plastic hanging down is what we would cut.

alright now onto the inlet...we didnt have time to figure that out, but it looks llike the 06 fog bezels are about 3". i figured you could take some duct tape and use that to secure the hose to the bezel.

As for the 04-05's I'm still working on a solution, which involes yet another trip to home depot. I try to snap a pic, of the pieces you will need, later


I think thats it. as i said this is all purely a proof of concept as wel did NOT wire this up and try it.

ok i hope you all enjoyed, the nex post will be about possible improvements and inital reactions.

Last edited by spazegun2213; 04-25-2006 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 04-25-2006, 08:04 AM   #3
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Impressions and Improvements
Alright, the last section has finally arrived!!! In this section I want to
discuss what I think about the ducts.

First this fit and finish:
The ducts are works of art, the welds are all top notch, and the powder coating is perfect. The hoses are included! while many people fault RCE for not supplying enough hose, the high temp hosing they use is also top notch and thus REALLY expencive stuff. you also do not need the high temp hosing for ALL of the intake track. I mean anything 3" and flexable will do and i would rather run to home depot and spend $10 then have full length hosing and spend $50 more. RCE also supplies hose clamps so all you really need are zipties and a little more hose (if you need it).


Second possible improvements:
Now I am NO engineer, so please take this as a ploite suggestion and not anything more. I think that the 3" tube on the duct itself could possible be lengthened and its angle altered. If it were to be perpendicular to the rotor I think you can lengthen where the hose clamps onto. Making this a little longer and at a better angle could solve some of the problems we had with the hose rubbing on the wheel.



this is really the only "problem" we had, other than that it was just tinkering with it.

The only other improvement I could think of was taking what Gary and the ESX crew did to their ducts




I think thats about it. I'm sure I'll add more later. Oh!! one more thing if you you want to know if i would have bought them had i known all this... i would say yes! I track the car enough, and this is a great kit!!!
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Old 04-25-2006, 08:20 AM   #4
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^ why did they cut that portion out- rubbing?

Lateral links are in the rear of the vehicle (I believe you are talking about the tie rods).

I've suggested to Myles to continue w/ the duct portion, make a slight turn so it's facing forward and make it a "scoop"- I've sen this done w/ some other cars. Simplifies things quite a bit- you can still route air to that area- but no worries about a hose to connect.

I've played w/ routing duct hose on the Impreza several times (I early on found that 2" hose is a lot easier to work w/) and still have not found a great way to get it to the rotor w/o the hose interfering w/ something- I was looking for a leave it solution.

I have seen guys run it under the subframe and into the fog lamps- this works (ofcourse the hose is very low), but it's strictly a hook it up for track day solution- which is no biggie.
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Old 04-25-2006, 08:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX
^ why did they cut that portion out- rubbing?

Lateral links are in the rear of the vehicle (I believe you are talking about the tie rods).

I've suggested to Myles to continue w/ the duct portion, make a slight turn so it's facing forward and make it a "scoop"- I've sen this done w/ some other cars. Simplifies things quite a bit- you can still route air to that area- but no worries about a hose to connect.

I've played w/ routing duct hose on the Impreza several times (I early on found that 2" hose is a lot easier to work w/) and still have not found a great way to get it to the rotor w/o the hose interfering w/ something- I was looking for a leave it solution.

I have seen guys run it under the subframe and into the fog lamps- this works (ofcourse the hose is very low), but it's strictly a hook it up for track day solution- which is no biggie.

thanks, and yes, it should be tie rod this is my first "how-to" so its a little rough.

they actually cut the duct to improve and distribute air flow a little better. He said that the normal kit worked just fine, but he needed a little more

as for the duct, i think he did a great job on it, but it "could" be better. With the space limited down there, there is only so much that can be done.

Yes, both the owner of that 06, and I wanted "leave it" solutions, and its just not possible Still this is a brake duct kit, and is not really intended for street use.
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Old 04-25-2006, 08:52 AM   #6
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Maybe it's just a bad angle in the pictures, but your front Cobb endlinks look like the bearing is coming out.
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:02 AM   #7
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I have seen these setups as well. They appear to be far eaesier to work with than one with hose.

Overall though the kit looks good.
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:25 AM   #8
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Thans Ross for the insight and the pics and the compliements. This product has been evolving since we started on it last summer. So trust me , we take this suggestions to heart.

There will be some minor updates in the next run we are doing.

Thanks for the support guys.

Myles
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:20 PM   #9
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*subscribe*
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:12 PM   #10
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Mmm looks cool.......I guess a plastic duct would melt due to the high temps close to the brakes? Adding weight down there, although probably minimal, makes me frown.
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowscooby
Mmm looks cool.......I guess a plastic duct would melt due to the high temps close to the brakes? Adding weight down there, although probably minimal, makes me frown.
well you are adding about half a lb per side,.....so if that makes you frown I assume you have alloy body coilovers, 15lb wheels and a light weight battery, AND do you track your car,.because most people who NEED brake cooling would not care about adding half a lb per side. Stopping is very important also.

Again, this product isnt for the casual enthusiast, its for people who are serious about tracking their cars, and who frequent tracks that are hard on brakes. So many people are NOT at the level where they are using their brakes to this point.

IF we could have made a ZERO weight product, we would have.

Myles
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowscooby
Mmm looks cool.......I guess a plastic duct would melt due to the high temps close to the brakes? Adding weight down there, although probably minimal, makes me frown.
Well, you are removing the brake dust shield and all the garbage that builds up on it during a track day. It should offset most of the weight.
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Old 04-28-2006, 08:52 AM   #13
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from another thread:

We did another test fit of the brake ducts to a 2006 WRX today. They fit fine, but on full lock to lock the sway bar mount will flex the hose by 1/4 of an inch. Not much considering its flexible and that you dont use lock to lock much at the track if at all.

Here are the pics.










let us know if you need anything..

Myles

Racecomp Engineering LLC.
410-730-7223[/quote]
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:17 AM   #14
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Two questions...

With these do the dust shields have to be removed permanently?

Wouldn’t it be more efficient if the duct was facing toward the caliper, not middle of rotor?
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Old 04-28-2006, 11:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue blurr
Two questions...

With these do the dust shields have to be removed permanently?

Wouldn’t it be more efficient if the duct was facing toward the caliper, not middle of rotor?
Not permanently no, as you can remove the ducts and reinsatall the backing plate no problem.

On the placement of the duct. You want the air sent to the center of the rotor to go thru the veins and be sucked out thru the rotor. Cooling the caliper would be after the fact. Keep the rotor kool and the brake fluid stays kool, and so on so forth.

A trip to a pro race and you will see alot of set ups that send air to the center of the rotor veins.

Myles
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Old 05-08-2006, 09:28 AM   #16
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Alright, i have yet ANOTHER update. I dont have any pictures though but the proposed routing works!!!

I have Swift springs on my car and routing them like my instructions above netted about a 1-2" hose-ground clearence. There is also NO steering problem, i can turn lock to lock and not rub!! I will post later about the quickest way to install them, but for now, I'll say zip tie it in place, move the wheel to full outside lock, tighten and then you are done!
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Old 05-11-2006, 01:55 PM   #17
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UPDATE:

I'll integrate this into post 2 but here is how i hung them.

1) with the hose clamps provided clamp the end of the hose onto the duct
2) turn the wheel to FULL outward lock
3) with some zip ties, tie the hose (NOT tight! just to hold the hose) around the control arm (is that what tis called) and the endlinks. you might need to compress the hose a little (into an oval shape) around the end links. I'm sorry the pictures are not the greatest, but they were taken in a hurry.


4) move the wheel to full inward lock and make sure the hose clears the wheel
5) once you are SURE you have no rubing, tighten the ties but again not to much as they need to move in and out as you turn the wheel. you want to make sure they clear the wheel and thats about the only reason the zip ties are here.
6) run the hose toward the back of the car (yes, i said back) and zip tie it to the subframe
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMG_2829.jpg
7) run the hose forward as car as you can and zip tie it again to the subframe.

8) move the wheel from lock to lock again and check once you have done that tighten the sub frame ties.
9) go for a drive and make sure you are not rubbing!!

again i cannot stress enough that you do not want to make that endlink ziptie really tight! I did this, and i actually BROKE the hose!

I'm running on swift springs and i have 1-2" of clearence between the hose and the ground.

I'll but up more pictures of the broken hose and under car.

if you have any questions you can PM or email me for info.
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Old 05-11-2006, 03:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering
well you are adding about half a lb per side,.....so if that makes you frown I assume you have alloy body coilovers, 15lb wheels and a light weight battery, AND do you track your car,.because most people who NEED brake cooling would not care about adding half a lb per side. Stopping is very important also.

Again, this product isnt for the casual enthusiast, its for people who are serious about tracking their cars, and who frequent tracks that are hard on brakes. So many people are NOT at the level where they are using their brakes to this point.

IF we could have made a ZERO weight product, we would have.

Myles

Hey not a big deal, just a curious question as to why you used metal instead of plastic. I know it's nothing dramatic and definitely only for track use, and its a good looking kit. Nice job, when I get some more money and I'm able to track my car frequently I will probably pick one of thse kits up.
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Old 05-12-2006, 10:37 AM   #19
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I think plastic would turn to puddle of goo. Track day rotor temps can be in the 1000-1300 degree range. Several times I've had my adhesive back wheel weights simply fall off- these were considerably further away from the rotor than the duct is.
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Old 05-12-2006, 11:54 AM   #20
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The ducts and bracket are made of alloy.

mw
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Old 05-12-2006, 12:17 PM   #21
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Since we are on materials used. I know a guy who went out of his way to show me his home made brake duct kit at a track event recently. He used some "materials" and formed a duct that sent air to the back of the disc(not the inside) and used some dryer duct hose.

Later that day his entire front wheels were coated with melted plastic and was molding around ALL of the front wheel, bearing, hubs, calipers, etc......that was what was left after the fire.

He ordered our kit that day at the track.

mw
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:06 AM   #22
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Alright guys, here is the after math


Thats the drivers side hose and after 300+ miles of track (3 days baby!) and 40-80 miles of street driving (thanks to a broken radiator hose) this is how it looked. Clearly the hose is spent, but it was nice to use it as a turn in trigger as it rubbed on the track in turn 3

but this is the passenger side hose


as you can see, there is NO damage at ALL, so I will be reusing this hose

so I think I'm going to press the hose into an oval the next time. But I'm really impressed with the hose, i mean, it went thought HELL!!! that I"m sure on the track it would have been fine.
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:42 AM   #23
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Hey Myles,

Have you thought about changing the clamps from a flathead screwdown design to one using a hex nut? It would probably make installation a bit easier, especially if someone plans on removing the hosing for DD.
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:12 PM   #24
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daishi00
Hey Myles,

Have you thought about changing the clamps from a flathead screwdown design to one using a hex nut? It would probably make installation a bit easier, especially if someone plans on removing the hosing for DD.

i beleive they are both actually... but I'm sure its an american size. and if you arrange it right, the clamp is really easy to take off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 04STiguy

thats not a bad idea...... *thinks*
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