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Old 10-10-2013, 10:42 AM   #1
jstbstn
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: jameson@dalesmotorsport.com
Vehicle:
02 WRX - Stage WTF
04 WRB WRX Wagon - Stg 2+

Default Ask a Dale's Service Advisor...

Having issues with your Subbie??? Just want to have some regular maintenance done??? Do for major service like a timing belt, clutch or head gaskets??? Need Advice on which part to buy???

I guarantee that if you have a question, other people do too!!

I'm starting this thread as way for people to ask any questions they have regarding their vehicle, Subaru or otherwise for any that have more than one vehicle or unfortunately drifted away from the Subbie. Dale's is a full service mechanical facility and can provide any dealer warranty required service and more so if you have questions, feel free to ask them!!!

Jameson Smith
Dale's Operations Manager
jameson@dalesmotorsport.com
604-530-9160
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Last edited by jstbstn; 10-10-2013 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 10-10-2013, 10:20 PM   #2
subaru-r6
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+1 for Dales ! Just picked up my car today, was offered great insight and recommendations when ordering parts/ choosing parts and install was great. Car feels awesome boys thank you very very much
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:14 AM   #3
jstbstn
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru-r6 View Post
+1 for Dales ! Just picked up my car today, was offered great insight and recommendations when ordering parts/ choosing parts and install was great. Car feels awesome boys thank you very very much
I'm glad you're happy with it man!! Anything else you need with it just let us know!!

Jameson Smith
Dale's Operations Manager
jameson@dalesmotorsport.com
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:49 PM   #4
banman
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I've now got RCE Tarmac 1 coilovers and a Whiteline adjustable RSB on my Legacy. What other suspension upgrades do you recommend? I'm thinking of the Whiteline Anti-lift kit and the rear camber adjustment bushings.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:06 AM   #5
jason t
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
I've now got RCE Tarmac 1 coilovers and a Whiteline adjustable RSB on my Legacy. What other suspension upgrades do you recommend? I'm thinking of the Whiteline Anti-lift kit and the rear camber adjustment bushings.

That would be recommended in our suspension path of upgrades.

Whiteline ALK- These replace the front lower control arm's rear vertical mount bushings. On the '05-09 Legacy these are prone to tearing and since your car is lowered they "will" tear not "if". The other benefit is increased caster which will give you heavier steering feel, with added straight line stability. There are more pros to adding this kit such as camber gain....

Rear camber bushings- This replaces the outboard bushing in the rear upper control arm. Since the ride height has been reduced the rear camber will be too negative causing inside tire wear and promote under steer. Adding adj. bushings will allow the alignment tech to increase camber. If your car is lowwwww then you will need camber and toe arms. You will run out of factory toe adjustment if the camber needs to be dialed in more than usual.

Another cost effective upgrade would be adding rack bushings. They are cheap and will add more direct steering since the rack gear is "locked" in place, not floating left to right while steering(especially when wider tires are added). Do this at the same time as the other two mods so only one alignment has to be performed, why pay for another alignment after the installation of a $65 part.

If you have anymore questions please call


PS. We might even have these in stock


Jason
Dales Alignment and Brake/Auto Service Center
107-19415 56th ave
Surrey, BC
604 530 9160
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:42 PM   #6
brett192
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Stage 2 w/ 6 speed

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I already have Kartboy rear subframe lockdown bolts and I am going to be getting rear diff support and outrigger bushings soon. I will be getting the stiffer outrigger bushings, but I noticed Whiteline makes two different support bushing kits; WHI W91379 and WHI W91380. Upon looking on their website, I see they have different lengths and widths. Are they both meant to be installed in the same place? Thanks
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:51 PM   #7
banman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason t View Post
That would be recommended in our suspension path of upgrades.

Whiteline ALK- These replace the front lower control arm's rear vertical mount bushings. On the '05-09 Legacy these are prone to tearing and since your car is lowered they "will" tear not "if". The other benefit is increased caster which will give you heavier steering feel, with added straight line stability. There are more pros to adding this kit such as camber gain....

Rear camber bushings- This replaces the outboard bushing in the rear upper control arm. Since the ride height has been reduced the rear camber will be too negative causing inside tire wear and promote under steer. Adding adj. bushings will allow the alignment tech to increase camber. If your car is lowwwww then you will need camber and toe arms. You will run out of factory toe adjustment if the camber needs to be dialed in more than usual.

Another cost effective upgrade would be adding rack bushings. They are cheap and will add more direct steering since the rack gear is "locked" in place, not floating left to right while steering(especially when wider tires are added). Do this at the same time as the other two mods so only one alignment has to be performed, why pay for another alignment after the installation of a $65 part.

If you have anymore questions please call


PS. We might even have these in stock


Jason
Dales Alignment and Brake/Auto Service Center
107-19415 56th ave
Surrey, BC
604 530 9160
Thanks - what's the part number for the steering rack bushings for my vehicle? KSR207?
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:26 PM   #8
jstbstn
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
Thanks - what's the part number for the steering rack bushings for my vehicle? KSR207?
You are correct sir! KSR207 are for the 06 Legacy GT amongst other vehicles as well. These are such a great improvement in every Subaru and have always been something I've done on my very first alignment on every one I've ever owned!
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:32 PM   #9
jstbstn
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04 WRB WRX Wagon - Stg 2+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brett192 View Post
I already have Kartboy rear subframe lockdown bolts and I am going to be getting rear diff support and outrigger bushings soon. I will be getting the stiffer outrigger bushings, but I noticed Whiteline makes two different support bushing kits; WHI W91379 and WHI W91380. Upon looking on their website, I see they have different lengths and widths. Are they both meant to be installed in the same place? Thanks
Those two Whiteline part numbers mount in different positions. The outrigger is the arm that extends towards the body rails and that bushing replaces the factory one's that detonate so easily, that is the 91379. Whiteline also makes insert bushings for the outrigger, KSB751, that can be installed if the factory bushing is still in tact and these on their own are a great improvement and rather easy to install.

The Other part number are the rear diff bushings that mount into the diff cradle and replace the soft factory bushings. These are definitely the most work out of the bunch to install but do very much help to reduce diff slop.
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:25 PM   #10
brett192
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Stage 2 w/ 6 speed

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jstbstn View Post
Those two Whiteline part numbers mount in different positions. The outrigger is the arm that extends towards the body rails and that bushing replaces the factory one's that detonate so easily, that is the 91379. Whiteline also makes insert bushings for the outrigger, KSB751, that can be installed if the factory bushing is still in tact and these on their own are a great improvement and rather easy to install.

The Other part number (91380) are the rear diff bushings that mount into the diff cradle and replace the soft factory bushings. These are definitely the most work out of the bunch to install but do very much help to reduce diff slop.
Thanks for the insight, I saw that one said outrigger and the other said cradle. They just look very similar.

I was going to order both 91379 and KSB751, are you saying they are both meant to be installed in the same place?

EDIT: Figured it out! Would you say the 91379 outrigger bushing replacement is a better upgrade than the KSB751 gap filler bushings?

Last edited by brett192; 10-14-2013 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:43 AM   #11
Studebaker83
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WRB - 314whp 337wtq

Default

Do o2 sensors have a lifespan / do you think a faulty o2 could be causing my troubles?

Saturday morning I was driving to work just cruising along Fraser Highway through Abbotsford to Mount Lehman when my check engine light came on. I pulled over into a parking lot and as I was slowing down my car shut off. I pulled the code and it was "P0172 system too rich bank 1". This had happened once before (except for the shutting off) and all I did was tighten my hose clamps on my intake and intercooler, clear the code and it didn't happen again. So I grabbed a socket from my trunk checked my hoses, cleared the code and it was fine all the way to Chilliwack, and back to Langley.

Saturday night and Sunday afternoon I drove around Langley without any problems.

Tonight as I was driving to Burnaby, when I was accelerating onto to highway one there was a slight hesitation around 2500rpm and between 4000-5000 rpm there was major hesitation but once I was cruising it was fine. After I got to Burnaby I decided to pull out my accessport and decided to monitor my A/F correction 1 on my way back to Langley. As I was driving it always seemed to be pulling fuel and for most of my drive back to Langley it was reading approximately -16% until I got past 200th and then it was -25% most of the time but dropped a few % occasionally (this was read cruising at 100km/hr and at ~2500rpm. As soon as I pulled off the highway at 232nd I decided to pull over at the Chevron. This time it shut off but no CEL.

I tried to restart right away but it was an really rough idle, so rough she almost stalled again. I shut her off waited a few minutes, fired her up and drove home no problem except for the fuel correction readings again.

Also twice over the past couple of months after doing a warm start the rough idle almost stalled happened twice. Once was after filling up and the other after I decided to straighten out my park job I'm not sure if this is related but what seems to stop the problem is having the car in the on position for 5 seconds before starting seems to stop this...except for tonight.

I don't think it is a dirty MAF or air filter as those were both cleaned within the past month and the fuel pump was replaced a couple of months ago.

I also have ~218,000km on my car

What are your thoughts? o2 or something else?

Thanks,
Ryan
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:25 AM   #12
DIGGYGV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Studebaker83 View Post
Do o2 sensors have a lifespan / do you think a faulty o2 could be causing my troubles?

Saturday morning I was driving to work just cruising along Fraser Highway through Abbotsford to Mount Lehman when my check engine light came on. I pulled over into a parking lot and as I was slowing down my car shut off. I pulled the code and it was "P0172 system too rich bank 1". This had happened once before (except for the shutting off) and all I did was tighten my hose clamps on my intake and intercooler, clear the code and it didn't happen again. So I grabbed a socket from my trunk checked my hoses, cleared the code and it was fine all the way to Chilliwack, and back to Langley.

Saturday night and Sunday afternoon I drove around Langley without any problems.

Tonight as I was driving to Burnaby, when I was accelerating onto to highway one there was a slight hesitation around 2500rpm and between 4000-5000 rpm there was major hesitation but once I was cruising it was fine. After I got to Burnaby I decided to pull out my accessport and decided to monitor my A/F correction 1 on my way back to Langley. As I was driving it always seemed to be pulling fuel and for most of my drive back to Langley it was reading approximately -16% until I got past 200th and then it was -25% most of the time but dropped a few % occasionally (this was read cruising at 100km/hr and at ~2500rpm. As soon as I pulled off the highway at 232nd I decided to pull over at the Chevron. This time it shut off but no CEL.

I tried to restart right away but it was an really rough idle, so rough she almost stalled again. I shut her off waited a few minutes, fired her up and drove home no problem except for the fuel correction readings again.

Also twice over the past couple of months after doing a warm start the rough idle almost stalled happened twice. Once was after filling up and the other after I decided to straighten out my park job I'm not sure if this is related but what seems to stop the problem is having the car in the on position for 5 seconds before starting seems to stop this...except for tonight.

I don't think it is a dirty MAF or air filter as those were both cleaned within the past month and the fuel pump was replaced a couple of months ago.

I also have ~218,000km on my car

What are your thoughts? o2 or something else?

Thanks,
Ryan
From my experience, o2 sensors have a lifespan, but it's not the sensor that dies. It's the heating unit usually that goes.

For example, common Honda problem is to have the o2 sensor go after 100,000 or so clicks in our environment with weather and all kinda crap.
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:38 AM   #13
jstbstn
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02 WRX - Stage WTF
04 WRB WRX Wagon - Stg 2+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Studebaker83 View Post
Do o2 sensors have a lifespan / do you think a faulty o2 could be causing my troubles?

Saturday morning I was driving to work just cruising along Fraser Highway through Abbotsford to Mount Lehman when my check engine light came on. I pulled over into a parking lot and as I was slowing down my car shut off. I pulled the code and it was "P0172 system too rich bank 1". This had happened once before (except for the shutting off) and all I did was tighten my hose clamps on my intake and intercooler, clear the code and it didn't happen again. So I grabbed a socket from my trunk checked my hoses, cleared the code and it was fine all the way to Chilliwack, and back to Langley.

Saturday night and Sunday afternoon I drove around Langley without any problems.

Tonight as I was driving to Burnaby, when I was accelerating onto to highway one there was a slight hesitation around 2500rpm and between 4000-5000 rpm there was major hesitation but once I was cruising it was fine. After I got to Burnaby I decided to pull out my accessport and decided to monitor my A/F correction 1 on my way back to Langley. As I was driving it always seemed to be pulling fuel and for most of my drive back to Langley it was reading approximately -16% until I got past 200th and then it was -25% most of the time but dropped a few % occasionally (this was read cruising at 100km/hr and at ~2500rpm. As soon as I pulled off the highway at 232nd I decided to pull over at the Chevron. This time it shut off but no CEL.

I tried to restart right away but it was an really rough idle, so rough she almost stalled again. I shut her off waited a few minutes, fired her up and drove home no problem except for the fuel correction readings again.

Also twice over the past couple of months after doing a warm start the rough idle almost stalled happened twice. Once was after filling up and the other after I decided to straighten out my park job I'm not sure if this is related but what seems to stop the problem is having the car in the on position for 5 seconds before starting seems to stop this...except for tonight.

I don't think it is a dirty MAF or air filter as those were both cleaned within the past month and the fuel pump was replaced a couple of months ago.

I also have ~218,000km on my car

What are your thoughts? o2 or something else?

Thanks,
Ryan
HI Ryan!!

When you look at fueling, the main components that will effect your trims will be your Front O2 Sensor and of course your MAF sensor; both of which I've seen fail and cause rough running issues and stalling. Secondly, I've also seen dirty injectors cause similar running issues as well so there are a few things you can look at here to try and figure this out. It's a bit more challenging when there are no codes for these specific sensors but if everything has been fine, AFR's in check and then all of a sudden this happens any of the above would be logical choices to start with. I'd do O2 sensor first, fuel system clean and decarb service second (we can do this for you if you like) and MAF last of all.

As for the fuel trims on your AP as a side note... Without knowing what the correction trims actually are all the time in these same load zones prior to the issues, the numbers don't mean much. You can easily have numbers like that on an AP with the vehicle reaching for an AFR in the primary fuel table but the corresponding MAF value is too far off so deep trims are required to get towards primary AFR. The correction for this is proper calibration of the MAF table which is excessively time consuming and often avoided like the plague. Cobb's initial OTS maps are calibrated for the stock box and even their OTS for their intake needs some tweaking to get fueling really nice and inline. Do you have a wideband in your car to know what your AFR's were at the time of the incident???

Let me know if you have any other questions

Jameson Smith
Dale's Operations Manager
jameson@dalesmotorsport.com
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:10 AM   #14
jstbstn
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02 WRX - Stage WTF
04 WRB WRX Wagon - Stg 2+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brett192 View Post
Thanks for the insight, I saw that one said outrigger and the other said cradle. They just look very similar.

I was going to order both 91379 and KSB751, are you saying they are both meant to be installed in the same place?

EDIT: Figured it out! Would you say the 91379 outrigger bushing replacement is a better upgrade than the KSB751 gap filler bushings?
They are both great parts! When I installed my 751's, my factory bushings were still in good shape so I just put them in and all is well. So my advice would be to have a look at your factory bushings first and see what kind of condition they are in before deciding. If they are torn then you want to get them out of there for sure! If they are still good then you'll probably be happy with the 751's.
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:40 PM   #15
Solar
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When are you getting the KLC26 in stock
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:47 PM   #16
dalesalignment&brake
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Originally Posted by Solar View Post
When are you getting the KLC26 in stock
Hopefully today.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:12 PM   #17
banman
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I need to put my car in "winter configuration", so I'm thinking of raising my ride height a bit. Since I've never had coilovers before...it should be as easy as just taking the wheel off and adjusting the locking collar for the spring, right? Doesn't this also affect the spring pre-load, though?

I know I should get the car re-aligned and/or corner weighted after doing it...

Last edited by banman; 10-16-2013 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:11 PM   #18
jstbstn
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
I need to put my car in "winter configuration", so I'm thinking of raising my ride height a bit. Since I've never had coilovers before...it should be as easy as just taking the wheel off and adjusting the locking collar for the spring, right? Doesn't this also affect the spring pre-load, though?

I know I should get the car re-aligned and/or corner weighted after doing it...
Yes, if you adjusting ride height it would need realignment afterwards as you've effectively changed the geometry. If trying to raise the vehicle a set amount all the way around you want to make sure you adjust all the collars evenly to try to reduce the amount of times you have to put the wheels on and off. On the coilovers you have it uses the pressure on the spring to adjust ride height so you may have a small change in handling feel as well.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:12 PM   #19
banman
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What are the options in terms of a catback for my Legacy wagon? There don't seem to be a lot of wagon-specific exhausts out there.

I used to have a Stromung on my WRX, and really liked the tone and loudness of that, so I'm looking for something similar. So far Greddy and Borla seem like contenders.

Also for down the road, looking for up-pipe options. Already have a Rocket Rally downpipe. Was thinking of going Cobb and doing both their CAI and up-pipe.
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:25 PM   #20
jstbstn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
What are the options in terms of a catback for my Legacy wagon? There don't seem to be a lot of wagon-specific exhausts out there.

I used to have a Stromung on my WRX, and really liked the tone and loudness of that, so I'm looking for something similar. So far Greddy and Borla seem like contenders.

Also for down the road, looking for up-pipe options. Already have a Rocket Rally downpipe. Was thinking of going Cobb and doing both their CAI and up-pipe.
First look for exhausts and I can get you turbo xs, invidia, magnaflow and AVO; potentially others, just need to look into more suppliers to find exactly the one you want and I'd have to dive a bit deeper into part numbers to make sure they fit the wagon. Let me know via email when you decide and I'll get you pricing!

As for up-pipe, I'd go Grimmspeed all the way! Their flex and coated up-pipe rocks! An accessport is also a great add on as is the Cobb intake. All of which I can get for you if I don't have it in stock!

Jameson Smith
Dale's Operations Manager
jameson@dalesmotorsport.com
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:08 AM   #21
timbits
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I need service appointment. For alignment and to help me find an exhaust leak...
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:13 PM   #22
minifreak
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Do you guys have the GrimmSpeed Stock Downpipe to 3" Midpipe Adapter in stock?
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:23 AM   #23
dalesalignment&brake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minifreak View Post
Do you guys have the GrimmSpeed Stock Downpipe to 3" Midpipe Adapter in stock?
No, that is 7-10 days delivery. Let us know if you want to order it.

Thanks
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:37 PM   #24
subaru-r6
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I need new pads possibly rotors also (probably rather do both?) what you guys recommend? (also within the next year will need clutch / timing belt etc but thats hopefully not all at once)
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:13 AM   #25
jstbstn
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Originally Posted by subaru-r6 View Post
I need new pads possibly rotors also (probably rather do both?) what you guys recommend? (also within the next year will need clutch / timing belt etc but thats hopefully not all at once)
Fire us an email with vehicle info and what you're looking for in the way of brakes and we can get you some prices. Thanks!
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