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Old 06-09-2015, 07:49 PM   #1
xjeeper87
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Default 97 impreza oil leaks/timing

I've got a 97 impreza outback 2.2L automatic transmissio AWD she's got 165k on her and she's leaking oil so bad from a cam seal I can't drive her. If I'm taking it apart I figure I'm gonna do all seals and timing components. What all is needed. I am gonna order a timing kit with all the pulleys and tensioner and water pump. I read somewhere the thermostat is in the water pump? Should I replace this now as well? And I want to reseal the oil pump while I'm in there what is required and what is the process? Any special tools needed for any of this work. Anything else I should look at while I'm dissecting it lol.
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Old 06-09-2015, 08:33 PM   #2
jneiss19
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If you're doing an h20 pump you should replace the t stat. Buy an OEM one as people here have mentioned overheating after a t-stat replacement using an aftermarket.

Resealing the oil pump is a bit of additional work but a good idea at 160k.

If you're doing this yourself I reccomend buying a Jayne manual and keep referring to this forum. You tube migh hVe helpful videos too.

As far as what is necessary, if you buy a timing kit with h2o pump you'll get what is necessary.

You'll need to clean gasket surfaces. A scraper is useful but you can score surfaces so you need to be careful. A scrubber like those green ones on sponges, those aren't abrasive enough to scratch the surfaces but will remove gasket material with some elbow grease.
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Old 06-09-2015, 08:34 PM   #3
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Haynes manual, not Jayne...damn phones.
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:52 PM   #4
xjeeper87
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Im no newbie to working on cars. Just Subaru's. What is required to do the oil pump reseal?
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:45 AM   #5
CosmoTheCat
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You'll need to get the crank pulley off - 22mm socket on a breaker bar resting against the body (not your fender, clearly, but something solid that won't move) and bump the starter is usually the easiest way to get it cracked loose.

You'll need an assortment of 10, 12, 14, 17mm sockets for taking everything apart.

I'm going to recommend you pull the motor and reseal everything on the back side of the motor as well.

There will be a plate with o-ring on the back of the passenger's side cylinder head. There is an o-ring between the driver's side cylinder head and the tower that the cam seal installs in. Those are common leak points.

Replace the baffle plate if it's plastic. Replace the o-ring on the driver's side piston pin cover plate. The baffle plate bolt that has an arrow pointing at it needs sealant on the threads, if you reuse the bolts. If you get new ones, that one comes with stuff on it.

The oil pump is held on with a handful of bolts, 10mm heads. Once you remove it, there are phillips screws holding the plate on the back - I've seen a bunch of those walk loose over time. Make sure they're torqued.

To put the oil pump back on, you'll want to get some 3bond, or use Permatex Ultra Grey, or 3m ultrapro 08672. And the o-ring. If you reseal the oil pan, get a new o-ring for that too.

There are two piston pin plugs on the front of the engine, if they're leaking or if you just want to reseal them, pull them out, clean up the threads, and use some thread sealant, and make sure the aluminum washers don't get lost.

Make sure you replace the valve cover gasket bolt grommets.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:32 AM   #6
xjeeper87
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I need to know what the part number for the o-ring that seals the oil pump to the block. My car was manufactured 01/97 and everything I can find is for 06/97 and later only. Any help? Needing to order parts asap
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:44 AM   #7
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjeeper87 View Post
I need to know what the part number for the o-ring that seals the oil pump to the block. My car was manufactured 01/97 and everything I can find is for 06/97 and later only. Any help? Needing to order parts asap
By getting an OEM oil pump seal, the small one on the back side of the pump, they are all the same until 2012 at least. When you put the sealant on the engine side pump mating surface, make sure to do a thin flat layer of sealant and NOT a bead. You do not want any sealant pieces getting sucked up by the pump or pumped through the engine. I had the main bearings of a 98 ej22 that got eaten up due to someone putting too much sealant when they resealed the oil pump. Let tack up for a bit if using permatex rtv black or grey before sticking the pump on there, if something else follow what you know. Make sure to not get any sealant close to the O-ring or it could pinch it which is not good. You will be able to tell where the sealant goes once you take the pump off. Some oil will come out as you probably know.

Be patient with the cam seals, it would not be the time to mark something up.... and cause further issues.

Oil pump O-ring part # is 10991AA001

Last edited by subi400; 06-10-2015 at 04:38 AM.
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