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Old 06-12-2006, 04:12 AM   #1
NewShockerGuy
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Arrow How to make brake pedal really stiff?

Installed s/s brake lines and used ATE super blue fluid... I honestly can't tell any difference at all from the stock rubber lines that were on my sti...

What can I do to make it STIFF... I want the feeling of how it is when the car is OFF, and you push the brake pedal down and it's SUPER hard...

Would the cusco brake cylinder bracket designed for the USDM wrx/sti help at all... any way to add springs to the brake..etc?

I just can't stand the slop/slush of the brake pedal... I want that feeling back when I first bought the car and it felt like I was pushing a brick down for the brake pedal...

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-Nigel
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Last edited by NewShockerGuy; 06-12-2006 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 06-12-2006, 04:23 AM   #2
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bleed the lines? I assume you did that when you did the fluid and brake lines, but new fluid and ss lines made a big noticeable difference to my car's brake pedal feel. Though at the moment it's feeling pretty squishy, but I think I'm due for new pads, fluid & bleeding...
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:46 AM   #3
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Bleed them again..........

Are your pads still new?..how many mile on them?.....IF you changed lines, and fluid but your pads are at 50%, your pedal could still suck,..yes thats possible. Remember the stock pads are crap. New pads and rotors that DONT have a wear lip in them, will feel good. As for getting the "when the car is off" feel,....LOL. forget it, or remove the brake booster and or get racing pedals. It will never feel that way, not to mention most people dont know how to modulate the brakes well enough without a brake booster and be fast or prevent lock up,.......................... Not unless you are a WKA champion and or Star Mazda regular and you live with no brake booster on a daily basis.

Keep those things in mind.

Myles
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:35 PM   #4
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If you really want it to feel like when the car is off, disconnect (and plug!) the vaccum line going into the brake booster. Do this at your own risk as Myles suggests.

I've driven a car like this, the brakes still work but it takes a surprising amount of effort to brake. Don't let other people drive your car without warning them, they'll run into the first thing that gets in front of them.
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:56 PM   #5
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Bleed the brakes. Prolly a few air bubbles in there.
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Old 06-12-2006, 05:07 PM   #6
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I am surprised that you did not notice any difference by upgrading from rubber to steel braided brake lines. I noticed a large difference. The Cusco brace probably made the biggest difference in brake pedal feel. I did not realize that the master cylinder was flexing that much on the firewall before I put that brace on.
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Old 06-12-2006, 05:49 PM   #7
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My old stoptechs had a rock hard pedal feel that I've never felt on any other brake system. Your 05 hubs should resist the pad knockback too.
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Old 06-12-2006, 06:39 PM   #8
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I agree with the "bleed again" bit, along with checking wear on the pads. New pads always have better pedal feedback than old pads.

The STi brake system typically has great feel; I can understand if you were on an older WRX but for a new STi, I can't see why not. Did you make sure to bleed each side of the caliper individually?

-Biggly
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Old 06-12-2006, 06:47 PM   #9
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I felt a somewhat "noticeable" difference when I installed my SS brake lines.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:36 PM   #10
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Hm...
We did bleed the brakes when installing the lines, actually we made sure there were no air bubbles, since we completley changed the fluid...

The STOCK pads have 23,000+ miles on them... when some of the guys looked at the pads they said there were about 50% left on them...

I don't know it could be my mind.. but I really can't feel a difference..

To make sure there were no leaks I was pushing the brake pedal down when the car was OFF so it gave that SUPER SUPER hard brake pedal feeling... and then when I turned the car on it didn't feel like that obiviously.. so I might be comparing it to that...?

-Nigel
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:57 PM   #11
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That's what they feel like when the vaccum brake booster has no vaccum. Not the best idea for a daily driver IMO.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:09 PM   #12
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Yeah, I don't think disconnecting the booster is a great idea- vehicles without power assist brakes have smaller bore MCs to make up for the lack of a booster. Methinks if you were to wreck, and the insurance co. found that one out, they'd frown upon that idea...
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Old 06-13-2006, 02:10 AM   #13
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3 things come to mind.

1. 50% pad will make it feel just "OK".

2. Expectation was prob too high.

3. if you had the stock HARD pads on for 23k, then there is prob a nice LIP in that stock rotor, so you are prob about 50% on allowable rotor thickness too.

All of which will contribute to pedal feel .

mw
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Old 09-08-2006, 10:45 PM   #14
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In addition to what was said above I think you could just get used to the feel. What car did you drive before the STI? Another good test would be to go and testdrive a new STI and compare the pedal stiffness
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Old 09-08-2006, 11:38 PM   #15
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Change both front and rear calipers to a smaller bore part adjusting each about the same % would do it.

Shorten the longer end of the pedal and put in a foot well false floor would do it.

Fit a 1.125 mc would do it.
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Old 09-13-2006, 03:45 AM   #16
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I had a WRX before... but when I first got my sti the braking was AWESOME, nice and stiff.. like pushing a brick down.. .now, not so much...

TCE:

I don't know what you said..lol :-(


-Nigel
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Old 09-14-2006, 12:04 AM   #17
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remove the vacuum line from the brake booster hehe.
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Old 09-14-2006, 03:32 AM   #18
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single stage booster would also help get rid of the initial slop.
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Old 09-14-2006, 02:33 PM   #19
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I have the perrin master cylendar brace and it made a dramatic difference in pedal feel. It felt more solid and consistent and eleminated almost all of the squishyness.

I will say, once your fluid gets hot and lines start expanding (non-braided) that the brace won't help. It just eleminates the movement of the firewall when you hit the pedal.

Definately worth the money to get one.
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Old 09-15-2006, 05:06 AM   #20
NewShockerGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car vs. Driver View Post
I have the perrin master cylendar brace and it made a dramatic difference in pedal feel. It felt more solid and consistent and eleminated almost all of the squishyness.

I will say, once your fluid gets hot and lines start expanding (non-braided) that the brace won't help. It just eleminates the movement of the firewall when you hit the pedal.

Definately worth the money to get one.
Is this the one that is DIRECTLY plug and play with our cars... I think it's either this or the Cusco which is a pain in the butt to install..

Thanks :-)

-Nigel
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:09 AM   #21
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Also, where can the Cusco brace be purchased? Can't find it through Google. . . .
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:09 AM   #22
Car vs. Driver
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Took me 30 minutes to install mine, no problems. Either one you install, you'll have to trim the bracket that holds a few hoses. Literally, a pair of tin snips will do the job

I prefer the Perrin brace ... call GTWORX.com, they can get them for you no problem
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:29 AM   #23
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I got the Perrin Brace also.
it wasn't easy to install.. some of those bolts are kinda to reach..
like the one inside the wheel well.

but the feel is much better
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Old 09-15-2006, 01:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
Hm...
We did bleed the brakes when installing the lines, actually we made sure there were no air bubbles, since we completley changed the fluid...
How did you completely change the fluid? If you drained out all the old fluid, then put in new fluid, you've almost certainly got air in the master cylinder. That would account for the squishy pedal. If you kept the MC topped off as you drained/pumped out the old fluid then that shouldn't be the problem.

Pat
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:14 AM   #25
NewShockerGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
How did you completely change the fluid? If you drained out all the old fluid, then put in new fluid, you've almost certainly got air in the master cylinder. That would account for the squishy pedal. If you kept the MC topped off as you drained/pumped out the old fluid then that shouldn't be the problem.

Pat
We used one of those pumps that you attach and it forces out the air bubbles and the old fluid by putting all the new fluid in... then when you start seeing your blue fluid (ATE SUPER BLUE) you stop. We did this on ALL the bleeder screws.

-Nigel
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