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Old 06-29-2006, 06:44 PM   #1
that1dude
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Angry AP instructions retarded or just me?

I'm trying to install my Cobb AP right now and can't even get past the 1st step of install: connecting the testmode connectors. I can't find 'em. I see no green connectors at all. However I do see a few wide white connectors just hanging and what looks like a previously installed alarm system (not working) seeming to be done kinda sloppy. I've been under the dash for about 30 mins looking and sweating and steaming. Can Anyone help?



PS
I also tried looking under the pass. side dash for the connectors as suggested but to no avail.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:46 PM   #2
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your just retarded

and dont get pissy you asked

its in there go back and look again
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:47 PM   #3
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Thanks, a lotta help. But yes I did ask for that.
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:20 PM   #4
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ok IM retearded... I found the connectors butt.... then the AP said it wasn't reading my ECU. I tried turning the key on/ off a few times but nothing. Then i disconnected the AP and tried to start from the beginning... Now the car won't go into test mode so I can't remap and I can't start the car( and I did try disconnecting the batt.). Please help!
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:24 PM   #5
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You should probably call COBB.
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:28 PM   #6
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Yea the tech line was my next stop... thx


Edit: Shoulda thought of that first, duh.

Last edited by that1dude; 06-29-2006 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:59 PM   #7
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Did you connect the initilization connector?

If it says low voltage hook up a battery charger during the flashing.

And you do have a instruction manual right? If not here you go: http://www.accessecu.com/support/ap-usersguide-wrx.pdf
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:57 PM   #8
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Have a Nice Day?

Yes and Yes. The tech line guy suggested I disconnect the batt. for up to 45 mins so I did. During this time, the test conns and initialization conn. were connected. Before reconnecting the batt, I disconnected the test conns but not the initialization one (if that matters). After reconnecting the batt, I turned the key on expecting (hoping) that it would go into test mode. Fuel pump turns on but runs constantly not cycling on/off, fan isn't on and CEL isn't flashing but solid. I try to start: crank- no start. Now it's too late to call Cobb again and my car's refusing to wake up. Any other troubles I could try shooting?


PS
It never said low voltage but I didn't even try reconnecting the AP itself after re-hooking the batt because the car wasn't in test mode.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:04 PM   #9
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in the steps listed you didn't mention reconnecting the test mode connectors after disconnecting the neg bat cable. Perhaps you should give it a rest until you can contact cobb, you CAN fubar your ECU if the steps aren't followed properly.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:08 PM   #10
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Green test connectors were behind the steering wheel. Mine were loose, probably flashed from the previous owner. When the battery is disconnected tap the brakes a couple times this should drain any remaining stored power. Do not let the battery voltage drop too low during flash, put a charger on it to be sure. You do not want to stop for anything during the flash. Mine would hang around, IIRC, ~22% and ~70%, give it time, it should continue.

When the car goes into test mode, the fans kicking on and off and changing speed are the most obvious signs.

And yes, the "constructions" as my boy calls them, could be better.
I have heard of bad cables.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:24 PM   #11
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edited
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:29 PM   #12
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the older instructions are retarded. the one on their website is more direct. the newer cobbs probably have the same directions as on their website.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaeater69
in the steps listed you didn't mention reconnecting the test mode connectors after disconnecting the neg bat cable. Perhaps you should give it a rest until you can contact cobb, you CAN fubar your ECU if the steps aren't followed properly.
The test connectors weren't together while the batt was unhooked but reconnected after the battery was. Right now i just have the battery disconnected and I hope it will just reflash itself to stock (since no AccessECU data was downloaded to my ECU) so I can get to work in the morning. The last thing I want is FUBAR.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:32 PM   #14
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I also remember reading somewhere that there is also a set of green connectors that could be disconnected under the drivers kick plate (the plastic cover where the carpet meets the door) or around that area under the carpet. It is very rare for them to be disconnected but this may be a case of that. You may want to try researching that more, or look under that carpet area.

Good Luck
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boundy3
I also remember reading somewhere that there is also a set of green connectors that could be disconnected under the drivers kick plate (the plastic cover where the carpet meets the door) or around that area under the carpet. It is very rare for them to be disconnected but this may be a case of that. You may want to try researching that more, or look under that carpet area.

Good Luck
Actually these other connectors might be under the passenger kick plate. It should be covered in the instructions.
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:04 PM   #16
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^^^ I don't think that's it, cuz the car did go into test mode the first time I tried to install it.

Could the ECU be fried if the lights, fuel pump, radio, ect still work?

Last edited by that1dude; 06-29-2006 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:33 PM   #17
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Provided your battery is good, and you didn't get anywhere in the flash process as you say... go back to your car... reconnect the Batt. make sure the WHITE connector is in place. Then connect the two green connectors (mine were up high to the left, had to get on the ground to fiddle with them.)
Put the key in, turn it to the "ON" position... but do not start the engine... look at the key hole carefully and you will know what I mean. Once in the "ON" position, you will hear the noises, and you will see the CEL doing it's thing. Plug in your AP at this point.
It should turn on, and ask you to press "OK" to pick a map. Select your map, press "OK" again, and since you are an 03, you will need to turn the Key to the "OFF" position, then back to the "ON" position, (without turning the engine on) you then have 3-10 secods to press the "OK" button to begin your flash...Be sure to have the AP handy before you turn the Key to the "OFF" position!!!

And don't leave any of the connectors in the car... I don't think the car will start with either the green ones together, or the white one (for 03)
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:51 PM   #18
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Have a Nice Day?

What if I didn't have the AP handy when I turned the key off because I had to connect it to its harness first...?

Oh shi wait; I think I do remember seeing the AP reflashing for a few seconds before it encountered the initial error. But maybe it was saying "initializing" tho...errmm.

Last edited by that1dude; 06-29-2006 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 06-29-2006, 11:10 PM   #19
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hurting....

This guy is selling his Stock 2003 ecu with ECUtek license...tuned for vf34 and pinks for 400... cheaper than the dealer will charge you for a new one.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...light=2003+ecu
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Old 06-29-2006, 11:48 PM   #20
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Unhappy

(*disbelief*)Uh, are you trying to put it to me nicely? Does that mean I'm focked? I don't have pinks or a VF but are you suggesting I buy this ECUtek, send it somewhere to get reflashed for my car and sell the AP? Or have I rendered the AP usless as well? WTF, 1st electrical type of project I've ever tried and I kill my car /
I'm sticking to nuts and bolts only from now on! (not really) This is the excact reason I love classic cars. NO COMPUTATORS.

Last edited by that1dude; 06-29-2006 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 06-29-2006, 11:59 PM   #21
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To be honest, I'm not sure what to tell you. If you put your car back to the way it was stock (plug wise) and it won't start... I would either ask cobb for a suggestion... or start looking for a new ECU which will cost you a pretty penny(at least 500 new), I would check Ebay every day. Is this your daily driver?
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:01 AM   #22
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Haha, yes it's my DD.
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by that1dude
I disconnected the test conns but not the initialization one (if that matters). After reconnecting the batt, I turned the key on expecting (hoping) that it would go into test mode. Fuel pump turns on but runs constantly not cycling on/off, fan isn't on and CEL isn't flashing but solid. I try to start: crank- no start.
Try starting the car with that initialization connecter out.

Last edited by ThrawlWRX; 06-30-2006 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:17 AM   #24
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from your descriptions... your ECU "should" be fine.

As a test, put everything back the way it was, green plugs appart, the white plug out, the AP unplugged. put your batt back on. And Cross your fingers.

Last edited by ThrawlWRX; 06-30-2006 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:25 AM   #25
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the i.c. WAS out.
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