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Old 06-30-2006, 01:19 PM   #1
dlh1999
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Default Inner CV boot repair?

Does $260 sound like a lot to replace my passenger side inner CV boot? That's what the dealership quoted me...I've seen the part for $170 or so...is it that difficult to replace? Anyone know what's involved?
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Old 06-30-2006, 01:58 PM   #2
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How timely - this is on my "gotta do this summer" list, except mine is a driver's side inner CV boot.

What part is $170? Sounds like the entire CV axle. Which makes sense, because 1) it looks like there's no way to replace the boot without separating the CV joint, and 2) once the boot is gone, the grease is gone too and the CV joint probably follows soon after.

So assuming $170 for the part, an additional $90 for labor doesn't sound bad at all.

Looks to me (from casual inspection) like the replacement requires removal of the hub & upright assembly - or at least, detaching it from the control arm & the strut. (Maybe you can leave the tie rod attached, and maybe you can leave one of the ball joints attached too and just take off the control arm or something.) Then you have to press the old axle out of the hub, and pull it out of the diff. Do-able, but probably not fun. I'll probably do it myself because I already have tools etc., but I'll probably also question my wisdom at least once while I'm doing it. Especially if I have to pull the whole upright.....
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Old 06-30-2006, 02:54 PM   #3
thorongil
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I don't know about the price for a Subaru, but it sounds in the ballpark (based on repair costs for similar problems with my last car). However, make sure the price covers replacing the entire half-shaft, and not simply the CV boot. I had CV boots go bad on my last car and had the dealership replace the CV boots. They should've just replaced the half-axles, because both CV boots and CV joints ended up going bad about 1.5 years later. I was not happy about paying for the same job twice.
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Old 06-30-2006, 03:14 PM   #4
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fair price
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Old 06-30-2006, 03:36 PM   #5
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"CV boot repair" translates to "whole new halfshaft"

torn boot lets out the grease and lets in nice abrasive dirt. does this sound like something you'd like to seal into your axle with a "new" boot?

price quoted sounds reasonable.

Dave G
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Old 06-30-2006, 04:18 PM   #6
dlh1999
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Thanks for all the replies. This was the cause they blamed my burning oil problem on. My car was in the shop twice before because of an oil leak somewhere...the third time I mentioned that I'd like them to check the CV boots, and conveniently that was suddenly the cause. Anyway, I guess I will make the appointment to get it done soon.

Thanks again...
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Old 06-30-2006, 04:54 PM   #7
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"Burning oil" and "oil leak" - you have to be more specific.

Was it "burning oil" and "oil leak" as in "I pull the dipstick and it shows half a quart low?" Nothing at all to do with the CV boots.

But if it's "buring oil" and "oil leak" as in "I smell something funny when I drive, and there's all this smoke?" Very likely it's the CV boot. The CV boot breaks, and then your axle throws its lube all over the place including onto the nearby exhaust, and then your exhaust gets hot and cooks the CV joint lube.

There's actually a noticeable difference between the smell of burning motor oil and the smell of burning grease.... But it takes a refined palate to make that kind of distinction.
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Old 07-01-2006, 03:10 AM   #8
dlh1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_Rockoff
"Burning oil" and "oil leak" - you have to be more specific.

Was it "burning oil" and "oil leak" as in "I pull the dipstick and it shows half a quart low?" Nothing at all to do with the CV boots.

But if it's "buring oil" and "oil leak" as in "I smell something funny when I drive, and there's all this smoke?" Very likely it's the CV boot. The CV boot breaks, and then your axle throws its lube all over the place including onto the nearby exhaust, and then your exhaust gets hot and cooks the CV joint lube.

There's actually a noticeable difference between the smell of burning motor oil and the smell of burning grease.... But it takes a refined palate to make that kind of distinction.
That was a bit of a broad statement...my bad.

I think you hit it right on. I was experiencing fairly random puffs of smoke and a burning smell (didn't QUITE smell like oil, but could have been...wasn't sure), especially when the car was stopped. The smoke came from the scoop, but today noticed it coming from the side of the car. This occurs after being warm already. So I'm fairly confident it is the CV boot.
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Old 07-01-2006, 04:58 AM   #9
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To replace an inner boot, you only need to free the inboard end of the axle shaft from the differential, as long as you don't mind disassembling and repacking the joint under the car. It's dirty but not complicated. A few inexpensive tools would help, such as snap-ring pliers and a band tightening tool. If it's the boot above the converter, it most likely failed because of heat and the joint should still be good. It can be inspected for wear. Total cost in parts and tools will be around $30.
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Old 07-01-2006, 11:09 AM   #10
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Ok my CV boot split yesterday, so I will be doing this repair myself. I found the complete axle from NAPA for $66.49 with a $91 core charge. So for $66.49 and an hour of time I will have this fixed.
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Old 07-01-2006, 12:33 PM   #11
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actually, i figured out that the grease burning smell i was getting in my car was thanks to a torn inner CV boot on my way back home to NY from Bonnaroo in TN. i got a "quick change" kit of the boot (which is essentially a split boot with clamps and overlap) for $15, brake cleaner for $2, a set of cutters of some sort (i forget) for $4, and a bunch of shop towels for $2. I pulled/cut the old boot off by driving the passenger side up onto a curb and getting at it from underneath. cleaned the joint out with brake cleaner (be sure to have water handy in case it sprays back at your face!!!) and wiped it clean with a couple towels and let it dry for a few minutes. then it took about an hour and fifteen minutes to get the "quick change" boot on with all the little mini screws and bolts that keep it sealed up. (the kit comes with grease, instructions, the boot, screws and bolts, and the hose-clamps for either end)

so basically for $23 (since the joint wasn't acting up and i didn't want to **** up my alignment because i had 400+ highway miles to go the rest of the way home) and 2.5 hours later including labor and finding an autozone/advance auto in bumblef*ck virginia, i had a good CV boot again! haven't had a problem since and it's been 2 weeks now.
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Old 07-01-2006, 01:20 PM   #12
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I will be replacing the axle because mine has been popping for about a week. It did not start slinging grease out until yesterday. Still $23 or the $66.49 is not that bad for either route..
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Old 07-01-2006, 02:09 PM   #13
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good call
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:18 AM   #14
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This isn't to ressurect the thread, but I was wondering about it.

I had the inner boot go bad on passenger side.

I was traveling so it was a pain. No autoparts stores carried the axle for the wrx wagon, and I was wondering in retrospect whether that is accurate, or if it is the same part they just did not know it.

Anyway I found a place in TN coincidentally enough and got it repaired for $65 at a shop.

He said he sees it all the time on WRX's. The inner CV boot goes bad b/c the turbo is too hot and I was wondering if that is true.
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Old 06-12-2007, 01:25 PM   #15
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YEP!!!
My mechanic (SubySpecialties) says that the passenger-side CV boot tends to go first or more often than the opposite side.
Reason being IS that it's closer to the exhaust (up-pipe and down-pipe) area and gets cooked by these temperatures. If you have after-market exhaust (catless up-pipe or down-pipe) then, the chances for damage get increased.
I hit a piece or sheet of metal a few days back on the freeway and my CV boot is busted pretty badly.
My car's back to stock but I had those "catless" items up there for a while and I'm sure that when the piece of metal hit, it didn't take much force. The opening on the boot is about halfway the circumference of the boot !!!
And...OH MY GOD!!!!...THE SMELL !!! Yeah, all the grease is more than gone out of the boot.
I was quoted at about $135/$140'ish for the repair. Don't know dealer's price but Steve at Specialties is pretty good at beating them...sometimes more than 50% less.
Man!...when it rains it pours! It's been a crazy year with the Suby and I didn't need this right now .
Damned CALTRANS ...our freeways need a lot more frequent cleaning!!!
Good thing that "the sale" went well !!!
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Old 06-13-2007, 12:37 AM   #16
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My passenger side DOJ boot (that's the proper term) went first as well too. Close proximity to the downpipe is what does it (all that heat leads to accelerated degeneration).

I also went to Suby Specialties and it was right around $225-235 to replace the boots on BOTH sides. Parts cost? Only about $10-15. Everything else is labor. About 1.5 hours per side at $70/hour.
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:38 AM   #17
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sounds way to high. shop here will do it for 75.00 including boot
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:41 PM   #18
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Perfect time to find this thread! I just had a tear on the passenger side as well, with lube burning off the turbo and downpipe.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:45 PM   #19
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I just fixed mine about a month and half ago. I bought a rebuilt one from Autozone for $65 and installed with the help of my brother in about an hour. Very straightforward install.
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:42 PM   #20
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when i was chaning my rims i saw tons of greas on the innter rim (F/ driver side).
i look at boot from all sides and i can find a hole wtf?


... when we were puting tein coilovers on my car the stock shuck felt on my finger and my friend had to use screw driver to get it out, so he made a hole in the boot. I add some lube in the boot and glew it. Looks fine.

Last edited by johnsm; 07-05-2007 at 03:53 AM.
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:36 AM   #21
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for the cv joints
you have to pull the ball joint from the LCA and remove the large nut on thr hub.pull the strut and hub forward off the cv i believe you might have to remove the cotterpin and castle nut on the tie rod. then remove the pin at the back of the cv and pull. i hate doing these. i think a stage 2or higher axel would probably work better as daily driver axles
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:47 AM   #22
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Does your guys car with the problem clink when you make a turn once in a while?
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Old 10-04-2007, 04:45 PM   #23
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I too have a failed inter passenger's side CV boot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by subieguy87 View Post
for the cv joints
you have to pull the ball joint from the LCA and remove the large nut on thr hub.pull the strut and hub forward off the cv i believe you might have to remove the cotterpin and castle nut on the tie rod. then remove the pin at the back of the cv and pull. i hate doing these. i think a stage 2or higher axel would probably work better as daily driver axles
Although this is a through expination I have a questions about how to remove the boot. Does it require the wheel removal and removal of the intermost nut. I guess I don't see how the compression on the joint is losened enogh to remove this part. Where does the Axel separate from the tranny inside the boot? Is it fixed to the tranny houseing at all or is it just held in place.

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Old 10-04-2007, 05:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Not-EWRX View Post
I too have a failed inter passenger's side CV boot.


Although this is a through expination I have a questions about how to remove the boot. Does it require the wheel removal and removal of the intermost nut. I guess I don't see how the compression on the joint is losened enogh to remove this part. Where does the Axel separate from the tranny inside the boot? Is it fixed to the tranny houseing at all or is it just held in place.
If i were you, i wouldn't bother with trying to remove the boot... as many have stated in the post, it's most likely got dirt in there and not worth fixing twice...

I would get a complete half shaft... I just did this jerb on my 00' RS this weekend and if i hadden't done a wheel bearing at the same time, it would have taken all of 2hrs, IF that...

I got the part from NAPA and it's REALLY nice looking if you ask me... It was 150$ with a 79$ core charge, so 70$


At least for me, it didn't require anything but removing the brake and rotor stuff (make sure you break the 32mm outter axle nut before you remove the wheel and raise the car) and removing the strut to knuckle bolts... it "should" allow you to get enough of the axle through the hub, to not do anything else... Just make sure you mark the head of the upper strut bolt, it controls the camber adjustment... that way you will be real close when you put it back together...

is that clear enough??
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:14 PM   #25
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One problem for alot of WRX SEDAN owners to consider is that it may really hard to find a sedan length halfshaft without going to the dealer... I searched all the major auto part stores and there were plenty of wagon halfshafts (because they use the same length as the previous GC/GF/GM impreza which has been around a while) but nobody had a sedan length one in stock.
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