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Old 07-07-2006, 02:07 PM   #1
kastkc
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Default Time to change my Timing Belt

I searched and couldnt find all the info I needed. I need to change my timing belt, does anyone have install instructions with torque specs etc....?
Also while I am in there, should I change out anything else (ie tensioner or anything)?

Thanks
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:09 PM   #2
Rally_wgn
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Depending on what vehicle you have you will need the service manual. Haynes has a manual for '96 and older Legacy and Impreza's for anything newer check out North Ursalias site for a service manual CD.

Many people replace the waterpump, but that depends on mileage, which you didnt include in your post.

I use a small C-clamp or two to keep the belt on the cam sprocket as they have a tendency to kick over and throw the tooth count off.

I also take out the radiator so you will need new coolant for a refill. Make sure the block isnt airlocked when you refill or it will over heat.

I bought a strap wrench that works well for holding the crank pulley and use a breaker bar with a 18" cheater bar to break the crank bolt loose.

Can't think of anything else right now. Good luck, it takes me about 3 hours to do if I have everything ready to go.
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:23 PM   #3
EJ1
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Do timing belt, water pump, water pump gasket, thermostat, thermostat gasket, crank seal, cam seals, oil pump o-ring.
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:33 PM   #4
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Is taking out the radiator necessary, or just easier?
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:35 PM   #5
EJ1
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Just take out the fans. 4 bolts and 2 connectors. You will need a special tool to hold the crank pulley while you break the bolt loose. Also, make some guides for the water pump. The bolts are very hard to line up w/o guides.
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:44 PM   #6
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Easier but not neccesary, I also second the thermostat they can get stuck after removal a new one is better.

I use a Klein Tools Grip-it Strap wrench on the crank pulley and it works fine. you can also use a 18" piece of angle iron with holes in it from Home Depot and 2 10mm x 70mm Grade 8 bolts to hold it but its a lot harder than the strap wrench.
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:48 PM   #7
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Thank you. If anyone has the install sheets let me know.
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:16 PM   #8
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Post your email address and I'll email them.
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:19 PM   #9
Matt Monson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJ1
Just take out the fans. 4 bolts and 2 connectors. You will need a special tool to hold the crank pulley while you break the bolt loose. Also, make some guides for the water pump. The bolts are very hard to line up w/o guides.
um, pulling the radiator is 2 bolts and 2 connectors. You have to drain it anyways to do this job, so leaving it in there saves nothing. And taking it out gives one 4-6 more inches of clearance on everything...

The biggest trick with this job is properly compressing the tensioner properly without blowing it...
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:25 PM   #10
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Hey Matt, have you used a Big C-clamp for the compression? I have used it with good success as it compresses slowly versus my arbor press.

Also I use a small allen wrench to pin the piston down before removal if possible, makes this step a lot easier.
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Old 07-08-2006, 08:25 AM   #11
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I pulled the radiator & fans as a unit=much easer than seperately. If doing a DOHC you must be able to lock the camshafts from turning or you can/will nick valves. I changed the TB, new water pump and inspected everything else. I used a drill press and reset the tensioner VERY SLOWLY without any problem. Do NOT reset the tensioner in the horizontal position. Go to www.endwrench.com for step by step with pictures.
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Old 07-08-2006, 11:32 AM   #12
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http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3837

Direct link with pictures. You'll only see them if you've got an account there.
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Old 07-08-2006, 03:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJ1
Do timing belt, water pump, water pump gasket, thermostat, thermostat gasket, crank seal, cam seals, oil pump o-ring.

While you are in there... also change the radiator hoses and all of the accessory belts... I would also (as I did) take the radiator to a radiator shop and have them tank clean it... they pull the endtanks off, clean all of the passages and then reseal the radiator...
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Old 07-08-2006, 03:39 PM   #14
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^^^ now that is the best idea I have heard of yet . I will have to consider doing that soon .
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas25RS
While you are in there... also change the radiator hoses and all of the accessory belts... I would also (as I did) take the radiator to a radiator shop and have them tank clean it... they pull the endtanks off, clean all of the passages and then reseal the radiator...
How much to have them clean, pull it off and reseal? Cause that's downtime. I imagine, if you can find a place to do that locally, it'd take them a day to do it? Many can't go extended periods of time without their car...as that begins to cost them money too.

A replacement radiator for an RS series seems to run about $150. I'm guessing you could possibly find it for less. Just something to consider, rather than spending a chunk of change getting that work done and having to deal with the time of the car being down(and needing alternate transportation to get the radiator to the shop, too).
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:25 AM   #16
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You have a pm EJ1, and thanks for the help everyone.
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally_wgn
Hey Matt, have you used a Big C-clamp for the compression? I have used it with good success as it compresses slowly versus my arbor press.

Also I use a small allen wrench to pin the piston down before removal if possible, makes this step a lot easier.
That's exactly how I do it, though have taken to using a jeweler's screwdriver to lock it after bending a couple of allen keys...
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally_wgn

Also I use a small allen wrench to pin the piston down before removal if possible, makes this step a lot easier.

Ahhh, that's a good idea. I ended up cutting a thick coat hanger and using that yesterday when I put my belt back on. It was a PITA to pull it out though.
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kastkc
You have a pm EJ1, and thanks for the help everyone.
You've got mail!
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Old 07-11-2006, 09:12 AM   #20
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Might be smart to swap the tensioner, too. I did the opposite, abut 60K miles ago... My tensioner blew, had them change the belt at the same time.

=S2=
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:24 AM   #21
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How much does the tensioner run?
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Old 07-11-2006, 12:24 PM   #22
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I didn't want to start a new thread, but how important are the number of teeth between pulleys? I have the 2.2 SOHC, and the timing belt I purchased had each marking +1 tooth. There was no way to get the tensioner in using the correct (-1 tooth) spacing. Also, There was no way to get the passenger side belt in place with the idler pulley and still retain the correct markings. When I moved to the markings on the belt, everything fit like a glove and the markings were perfectly lined up. Thinking back to mathematics, as long as the pulleys are directly connected, for every one rotation of the crank, it should still rotate the cams the same amount, no matter the tolerance of length, but the length tolerance could affect tension. Is this correct?

BTW, the car pulled nice and strong using this timing. When I put the belt on before, I was off by about a tooth on the cam pulleys.
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Old 07-11-2006, 12:58 PM   #23
EJ1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kastkc
How much does the tensioner run?
It's going to depend on the car. What do you have? I work parts at Subaru (where I'm at right now). One for a 00RS runs for $143.65.
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:11 PM   #24
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kastkc,
where is the south burbs are you? Ive done this a few times and would be more than willing to offer a hand if you want.
jeff
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:11 PM   #25
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02 2.5rs
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