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Old 07-10-2006, 12:37 AM   #1
ryankenn
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Member#: 118323
Join Date: Jun 2006
Thumbs up 2000-2004 BE/BH Legacy GT Headlight/DRL/Fog Mods *PICS*

NOW WITH PICTURES, SEE BELOW

Here is what I think should work, but please do correct me if I'm wrong.

DRL Disable combined with foglight independance and LO/HI/FOG capability.

This looks fairly simple, and I like the idea of cutting two wires, as opposed to unplugging the entire module as I've read works. Then the module is still performing all the other functions as it should, and to the dealer, everything will look good under the dash. The chance they see one cut wire is limited.

The DRL relay strictly provides an alternate path to ground other than what's controlled by the switch on the stalk. As soon as the Parking brake is released the DRL module switches the relay and the lows come on. What I wanted to do, was use the DRL Relay to my advantage. Its a controlled circuit that we can use to control the Fogs. By severing pins 37 and 38 on the relay, we have removed the path to ground for the lows, meaning they are now strictly controlled by the position of the stalk. We now also have to connection points that are switched by the parking brake.



Taking those two points over to the foglight schematic, we can use the DRL to control our fogs. Connect one side of the relay directly to the fog light fused power, and the other side to RY wire on connector B62. In that same process severe the connection of that RY wire from DRL module and Dimmer and passing switch. With this one move, the DRL module and parking brake, now "activate" our fogs for us. The fog switch is now able to turn them on as soon as you release the parking brake. Also, with the dimmer and passing switch connection removed ( which was a source to ground for the fogs, so when you flash highs it grounded RY out so the fogs would turn off ) your fogs stay on during hi-beam flashes.



I like this approach as I'm using the cars own fused and controlled circuitry to give me what I want. Every other connection is working as it did stock, only now the DRL circuit (A) doesn't turn on my lows and ( B ) provides a fused control circuit to let me have fogs whenever I want.

I'll be performing it fairly soon and I'll provide pictures and results after its done.

Ryan
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Last edited by ryankenn; 07-27-2006 at 03:08 AM. Reason: Pictures added.
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Old 07-27-2006, 03:06 AM   #2
ryankenn
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Default Whoah. The long way, the short way, the right way.

Well, my plan above didn't work at all. As you'll see, I went with a more tried and true method.

Here's a look under the dash. The relay bank at the bottom is what I wanted to see right away. The green relay is the so called "DRL" relay from the above schematic. I thought I'd verify this by pulling it out and seeing if they still came on. Yup. So then I pulled the white plug ( see pics a little later ) and tried again, this time I got nothing. So relay provides not only a path to ground for the DRL, but the regular headlights as well, so I had to leave it in. That threw a major wrench into things.



With my new HID's I had to do something to disable the DRL's, and nothing I could see in the schematic would do it other than unplugging that white connector, just as everyone else has done. So I found the module hidden up under there, and pulled it down. I've seen so many people telling others how and where, I thought I'd snap some pics while I was down there. Here's looking straight up.



Here's looking through the fuse block so you can see the slide on tab keeping the unit up there.



Here it is finally down into the open. Unplug the white connector and enjoy the fruits of losing those stupid DRL's.



Now I still wanted to have control of the Foglights, keeping the factory switch, but not relying on the parking lights, and have them stay on with the highbeams. I won't even begin to tell you about the hours wasted looking at the schematic and trying to figure something out, other than the hack and slash I ended up with. Needless to say, the two wires that power the coil of the foglight relay, both go dead with highbeams. The power is removed somehow, and the path to ground is taken away, so simply giving it keyed power won't work. But I did find a way.

First locate the foglight relay under the hood. Its on the drivers side fender, just unclip the cover and you'll see this. The foglight relay is in red. If you undo the two screw ( after removing the negative battery cable of course ) in yellow that hold it down, the whole unit becomes loose. Then, there are two clips on either side of the relay bank, in purple, that you can unclip, and the relay bank come out of the rear of the main one.



Once out, you need to unclip the rear wire cover, just tabs again. This lets you see the wires.



This is the back of the foglight relay. In practice you don't need to do any of these steps if you use the spade lug method ( later ) and don't care where the wire is routed, but I wanted it to have a finished look, so I needed access to them. The wire in red is the one we are interested in gaining control over, itís the voltage side of the relay coil. Looking down onto the relay, itís the bottom right tab/pin.



The next hurdle was finding a switched power wire in this area. I searched everywhere, and was finally going to resort to using the parking lamp power wire to trigger the foglight relay coil as every wire under the hood is strictly battery direct power. Switched power wires donít start to happen until youíre under the dash. I was looking for the drivers side parking lamp wiring ( never found it, totally hidden, Iíd hate to have to change that bulb ) when I stumbled across a connector that wasnít plugged in. The chances were slim it had switched power but I thought what the heck. Low and behold, the yellow wire is switched. A miracle! Now I had a source of power to continue.

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Old 07-27-2006, 03:07 AM   #3
ryankenn
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Member#: 118323
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default Part 2 ( Stupid image limit! )

You need about a 12Ē wire, I chose a speaker wire from one of my old sets that already had a spade terminal on it. ** NOTE ** This is where it could be easy for you. If you take the terminal I broke of ( see photo below ) and bend it out at 90 degrees, then up against the side of the relay body, youíre left with a male spade connection thatís easy to plug your switched power onto. Then you just re-seat the relay, and it doesnít make a connection to the power coming from below. I had done this, but bent it back and forth too many times and the tab broke right off. Oh well, so much for being easy.



I popped the top off the relay and soldered a short wire to the broken terminal. I trimmed back the cover to allow the wire to stick out, then taped it closed.



Hereís the wire routed and spliced into the yellow switched power. As shown, you could just now plug that spade into the bent up terminal and be done. I had to cut and splice though.



Hereís the final installation put back together. Hard to see the difference, and thatís the point. At this point you have fogs that work as soon as the car is in ACC mode. With the DRLís disabled, this may be it for most people, I however wanted fogs with highbeams.



Again, the schematic above is slightly misleading. From what I saw, the switched when on ground pins 3, 5 and 6 together, and subsequently to ground. Thatís not quite what happens. The earth ground is strictly for the light inside, the YL wire is the ground path for the foglight relay. The problem is the YL wire is removed from ground when the highbeams come on. The fix, give the YL wire a constant path to ground, then the switch still lights normally, and isnít affected by the highbeams.

Hereís the back of the foglight switch ( left side ). We are interested in the yellow and black wires.



You want to cut the yellow wire completely, and just strip a section of the black wires sheath back. Then take the yellow wire left sticking out of the back of the switch, and splice it into the black ( ground ) wire. Tape up this connection, and the section of yellow coming from the dash ( although its only a path to ground, not live voltage, I like to do this ) and close it back up. You know have independent of everything fogs. This step will NOT work by itself as the foglight power, stock, is also removed during highbeams, so keep that in mind.

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Old 07-27-2006, 03:07 AM   #4
ryankenn
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Member#: 118323
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default Final.

Hereís the results, and a sneak peak at my car.

Just parking lamps.



Just foglights.



Foglights and parking lamps.



Foglights, parking lamps and low beam 4300K HID.



Foglights, parking lamps, low beams and high beams.



BRIGHT.



Side view of all of them on together. And a partial look at my new rims. Pics later.



I hope this helps some people get this done, as pictures always help me more than words. Enjoy!

Ryan
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Old 12-21-2006, 09:52 PM   #5
BLK REX
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Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: KoP, PA // Hanover, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy GT LTD
Black

Default

WOW THANKS so freakin much..Ive been staring at the diagram for months with no ideas, and havent been able to find anything anywhere.

I wonder why Subaru couldnt just wire our fgs like everyone else does, in the way that allows full control with just 1 wire tap.
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