Cam seal - Oil leak - tips?

compton · 07-14-2006, 08:45 AM

Helllo all,

I have an oil leak issue that showed up last night on my 02 wrx and have narrowed it down to the drivers side timing cover. It does not appear to be comming from the center or passenger side of the timing cover. So... it looks like I have another job on my hands. I am curious if any members here have had the wonderfull experience of replacing the cam seals and crank seals themselves. If so any tips on the removal/installation of the sprockets and seals would be greatly appreciated. I also have a couple particular questions...

Is it necessary to pull the valve cover to remove the cam seals or can I carefully remove them with a tool/awl/somthing else?

Will I need to use a bonding agent on the installation of the cam seals? crank seal?

Is there any tips/tools out there for keeping the cams in place so the when I re-install the sprockets and belt I do not screw my timing up?

Thanks in advance,

-Noah

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

kenny08 · 07-14-2006, 11:27 AM

i paid like $600 to get that and my timing belt replaced.

compton · 07-14-2006, 11:50 AM

Ouch... yeah i am not afraid to take the motor out if need be but I really hate paying someone else to do somthing I would like to learn to do anyways. I plan on installing a FMIC at the same time as well as swap my plugs. I just finished adding new headers copper gaskets throughout and a new clutch flywheel and pressure plate so it looks like I will be getting dirty again already. So it goes. I think I may just have to order a manual for the motor.

MonsterRallySport · 07-14-2006, 11:54 AM

If you know what you are doing it's cake! If not, you do not want to do this yourself... Have you ever tried to align 4 cam gears without the proper tooling..? IT AIN'T FUN....
There are special subaru cam tools needed. I would not recommend the universal cam lock tool, beacuse the gears are plastic.. I always use aircraft glue around the outside edge of all seals, Then I always stake the seals in. (staking the seal is basicly taking a chisle and hammer, punching at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock around the seal housing, just enough to distort the aluminum to lock the seal in.)

BoxerSpirt · 07-15-2006, 11:37 AM

I thought the same thing happened to me car but when I go everything apart the oil I was seeing was over pour from the filler neck, I did not replace the seals(even though I bought them all), I'm a chevrolet tech and the guy who was helping me was an older very expericed subaru tech, he told me it was hit or miss with those seals about a 50% chance they'll leak. So make sure they are leaking and only replace the ones that are, and a little RTV wont hurt.

As for the job its easy, pull the fans and coolant over flow and then the crank pulley and front cover, there it all is! turn the motor till all the marks align(you'll see what i mean upper cam sproket at 6oclock lower at 12, and the marks on the block) use paint or white out to mark the belt at each notch and put an arrow showing the direction(alough these marks are most likey there, its good messure) remove the belt tensioner, now is the only part you need a special tool for, you need a metal rod paper clip thin but much stronger about an inch long or so, take the tensioner and compress it in a vice VERY SLOW until the holes align and put the pin in to secure it. Going back align all your marks(when you remover the belt the cams will turn a bit, dont be afraid to turn em back) not that hard, then when everything is perfect pull the pin in the tensioner to lock it all back in.

If your not comfortable doing it, take it to the dealer.

MonsterRallySport · 07-15-2006, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxerSpirt

I thought the same thing happened to me car but when I go everything apart the oil I was seeing was over pour from the filler neck, I did not replace the seals(even though I bought them all), I'm a chevrolet tech and the guy who was helping me was an older very expericed subaru tech, he told me it was hit or miss with those seals about a 50% chance they'll leak. So make sure they are leaking and only replace the ones that are, and a little RTV wont hurt.

As for the job its easy, pull the fans and coolant over flow and then the crank pulley and front cover, there it all is! turn the motor till all the marks align(you'll see what i mean upper cam sproket at 6oclock lower at 12, and the marks on the block) use paint or white out to mark the belt at each notch and put an arrow showing the direction(alough these marks are most likey there, its good messure) remove the belt tensioner, now is the only part you need a special tool for, you need a metal rod paper clip thin but much stronger about an inch long or so, take the tensioner and compress it in a vice VERY SLOW until the holes align and put the pin in to secure it. Going back align all your marks(when you remover the belt the cams will turn a bit, dont be afraid to turn em back) not that hard, then when everything is perfect pull the pin in the tensioner to lock it all back in.

If your not comfortable doing it, take it to the dealer.

If you use RTV let it setup for a couple hours before you start the motor..
RTV is like grease until it hardens... Thats why I use aircraft glue. It hardens in 5 minutes... Usualy in the time that I go from 1 seal to another....

compton · 07-15-2006, 05:37 PM

Thanks a bunch guys. Very helpful, I have ordered the parts so I will go for it in a week or so. I have taken it halfway apart to ensure it is the cam seal leaking... just one though. I am goint to replace all 4 due to the fact I will be right there and I will be sure to do it correct the first time. Thanks again,

Noah

07-14-2006, 08:45 AM	#1
compton Scooby Specialist Member#: 10646 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: FL Vehicle: 02 sti bugeye still filthy	Cam seal - Oil leak - tips? Helllo all, I have an oil leak issue that showed up last night on my 02 wrx and have narrowed it down to the drivers side timing cover. It does not appear to be comming from the center or passenger side of the timing cover. So... it looks like I have another job on my hands. I am curious if any members here have had the wonderfull experience of replacing the cam seals and crank seals themselves. If so any tips on the removal/installation of the sprockets and seals would be greatly appreciated. I also have a couple particular questions... Is it necessary to pull the valve cover to remove the cam seals or can I carefully remove them with a tool/awl/somthing else? Will I need to use a bonding agent on the installation of the cam seals? crank seal? Is there any tips/tools out there for keeping the cams in place so the when I re-install the sprockets and belt I do not screw my timing up? Thanks in advance, -Noah * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

07-15-2006, 11:37 AM	#5
BoxerSpirt Scooby Newbie Member#: 85726 Join Date: Apr 2005	Double check I thought the same thing happened to me car but when I go everything apart the oil I was seeing was over pour from the filler neck, I did not replace the seals(even though I bought them all), I'm a chevrolet tech and the guy who was helping me was an older very expericed subaru tech, he told me it was hit or miss with those seals about a 50% chance they'll leak. So make sure they are leaking and only replace the ones that are, and a little RTV wont hurt. As for the job its easy, pull the fans and coolant over flow and then the crank pulley and front cover, there it all is! turn the motor till all the marks align(you'll see what i mean upper cam sproket at 6oclock lower at 12, and the marks on the block) use paint or white out to mark the belt at each notch and put an arrow showing the direction(alough these marks are most likey there, its good messure) remove the belt tensioner, now is the only part you need a special tool for, you need a metal rod paper clip thin but much stronger about an inch long or so, take the tensioner and compress it in a vice VERY SLOW until the holes align and put the pin in to secure it. Going back align all your marks(when you remover the belt the cams will turn a bit, dont be afraid to turn em back) not that hard, then when everything is perfect pull the pin in the tensioner to lock it all back in. If your not comfortable doing it, take it to the dealer.

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07-14-2006, 11:27 AM	#2
kenny08 Scooby Specialist Member#: 79907 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: socal Vehicle: 02 blue wagon 18g goodnesss	i paid like $600 to get that and my timing belt replaced.

07-14-2006, 11:50 AM	#3
compton Scooby Specialist Member#: 10646 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: FL Vehicle: 02 sti bugeye still filthy	Ouch... yeah i am not afraid to take the motor out if need be but I really hate paying someone else to do somthing I would like to learn to do anyways. I plan on installing a FMIC at the same time as well as swap my plugs. I just finished adding new headers copper gaskets throughout and a new clutch flywheel and pressure plate so it looks like I will be getting dirty again already. So it goes. I think I may just have to order a manual for the motor.

07-14-2006, 11:54 AM	#4
MonsterRallySport Scooby Specialist Member#: 104148 Join Date: Jan 2006 Chapter/Region: BAIC Location: Shingletown CA Vehicle: MRT Spur cut with Rocket center Diff.	If you know what you are doing it's cake! If not, you do not want to do this yourself... Have you ever tried to align 4 cam gears without the proper tooling..? IT AIN'T FUN.... There are special subaru cam tools needed. I would not recommend the universal cam lock tool, beacuse the gears are plastic.. I always use aircraft glue around the outside edge of all seals, Then I always stake the seals in. (staking the seal is basicly taking a chisle and hammer, punching at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock around the seal housing, just enough to distort the aluminum to lock the seal in.)

07-15-2006, 05:37 PM	#7
compton Scooby Specialist Member#: 10646 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: FL Vehicle: 02 sti bugeye still filthy	Thanks a bunch guys. Very helpful, I have ordered the parts so I will go for it in a week or so. I have taken it halfway apart to ensure it is the cam seal leaking... just one though. I am goint to replace all 4 due to the fact I will be right there and I will be sure to do it correct the first time. Thanks again, Noah