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Old 07-24-2006, 05:46 PM   #1
SplatZ400
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Default ? about wiring pressure switch to utec

OK so this is how my set is supposed to be installed.

relay: 85=brown=pressure switch "NO" connection
30=blue= fuse and battery
86a=red=not used
86=green=+12 volt IGN
87=yellow=pump

now i want to use my spare selenoid in the utec to run the spraying i know i am supposed to go utec1=ground and utec7=positive. but how am i to wire this correctly? and what are the parameters that i need to set on the utec?

thanks in advance.
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:15 PM   #2
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86 goes to number 7. The parameters are upto you. Just remember they're "and" and not "or" parameters. ie-all of them need to be fulfilled b4 the solenoid is turned on.

peace
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:20 PM   #3
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86a or 86? and if i go to 86 then i dont need to hook upto the ignition? also if 86 goes to utec7 then how does the pressure switch connect. the com and no are the connections used so......... do i go from the 86(relay)>utec7>NO?
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:32 PM   #4
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You do not use the pressure switch when using utec ground, since utec ground is a pressure switch plus more. The whole point of using the utecs spare solenoid is so it controls when your system turns on.....

Here's a link to a diagram. 86-utec plug 7..... Utec plug 1 to chassis of car(like the other utec ground). Leave 85 alone like ya said b4. No ignition connection because the utec is turning the relay on, the ignition and the pressure switch are not(not used at all).

peace
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:42 PM   #5
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oh well then i dont even need to tap the vacum line correct. hell you are a life saver hippy thanks!
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:54 PM   #6
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No prob man, good luck.

hippy
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hippy
You do not use the pressure switch when using utec ground, since utec ground is a pressure switch plus more. The whole point of using the utecs spare solenoid is so it controls when your system turns on.....

Here's a link to a diagram. 86-utec plug 7..... Utec plug 1 to chassis of car(like the other utec ground). Leave 85 alone like ya said b4. No ignition connection because the utec is turning the relay on, the ignition and the pressure switch are not(not used at all).

peace
Hippy,
Can this also work for a dual stage system?

I'll get directly to the heart of my question.......if you have the UTEC solenoid controling the AI......wouldn't it be as simple as changing to a map which doesn't trigger the solenoid to "disable" the AI system?
I'm not talking about map switching due to knock, etc....under high load, et, etc.......but basically a different map = AI system off.
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Old 07-25-2006, 12:21 PM   #8
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It can, but you can't turn it off. The parameters for the spare solenoid are used on all maps(as far as I know). You'd need to change the parameters or wire in a switch to turn the injection off. Making a dual stage setup work with a utec is like making peanut butter work with jelly though. Tuning wise, and setup wise. It would be just like a single stage with a pressure switch, but the utec would control a solenoid that would turn on the second stage(for better top end juice and less chance of bogging down low then a single stage kit when used correctly). Since the pressure switch and the utec turn the alc/water on, and utecs fuel/timing maps use pressure as a reference, it's easy to know which parts of the maps to adjust(especially the fueling map), and how much at what time. This is even true when running water and the injection doesn't effect the a/f ratio.

peace

Last edited by hippy; 07-25-2006 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hippy
It can, but you can't turn it off. The parameters for the spare solenoid are used on all maps(as far as I know). You'd need to change the parameters or wire in a switch to turn the injection off. Making a dual stage setup work with a utec is like making peanut butter work with jelly though. Tuning wise, and setup wise. It would be just like a single stage with a pressure switch, but the utec would control a solenoid that would turn on the second stage(for better top end juice and less chance of bogging down low then a single stage kit when used correctly). Since the pressure switch and the utec turn the alc/water on, and utecs fuel/timing maps use pressure as a reference, it's easy to know which parts of the maps to adjust(especially the fueling map), and how much at what time. This is even true when running water and the injection doesn't effect the a/f ratio.

peace
Oh, I see.........because we're talking about parameters, as opposed to maps....I think I get it now. Same thing as setting the injector parameters for 565cc, etc....that parameter applies for all maps. Got it....sorry for the inane blathering.
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:48 PM   #10
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Yeh, I don't see why anyone would wanna run without injection anyways(if they had it)......

peace
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Old 07-25-2006, 03:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hippy
Yeh, I don't see why anyone would wanna run without injection anyways(if they had it)......

peace
Well, imagine a scenario where you commute 100+ miles per day and 95% of it is interstate driving in moderately heavy traffic. It wouldn't make a much difference, yes?
I mean, I've been toying with the idea of an economy map, using 87octane and AI. ...but aside from that....why even have the system active for those mindless commuting trips?

Now when I go to the track or the strip, or when I do get a chance to have fun, then it would be a great upgrade to have.
I'm just trying to explore and understand the options available to me as opposed to running out and buying the cheapest kit I can find. If I do use AI, I'd like it to operate in a manner that makes it useful and enjoyable to ME, under MY circumstances, that's all.
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Old 07-25-2006, 03:10 PM   #12
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Most people don't run injection at part throttle. Even if the system is on, it wouldn't be running unless the situation arose where it was made to run at that time(like the boost was above a certain level or something), and then you'd want it to be on. Like I said, I don't see the point in ever turning an alc/water system off. If it's malfunctioning or runs out of water, then it's obviously a good time to go to part throttle or switch maps, but having an on/off switch wouldn't help much. I mean it gives you more flexability in certain ways to be able to turn it off, but it also creats the problem of possibly forgetting to turn it on(which could be much worse then it being on when you don't want).

peace
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Old 07-25-2006, 04:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hippy
Most people don't run injection at part throttle. Even if the system is on, it wouldn't be running unless the situation arose where it was made to run at that time(like the boost was above a certain level or something), and then you'd want it to be on. Like I said, I don't see the point in ever turning an alc/water system off. If it's malfunctioning or runs out of water, then it's obviously a good time to go to part throttle or switch maps, but having an on/off switch wouldn't help much. I mean it gives you more flexability in certain ways to be able to turn it off, but it also creats the problem of possibly forgetting to turn it on(which could be much worse then it being on when you don't want).

peace
Points taken. Perhaps I'm just making it overly complex, i.e.; worrying about it too much.

So here's another question for you. ....I'm not trying to draw out statements against Cooling Mist, etc.....and I've been very impressed and appreciateive of Richard L's comments and expertise...........but why would a person spend 2.5 - 3 times the money on one of the basic Aquamist kits as opposed to a basic Cooling Mist, SMC, or Snow?
And once that's been answered, why not assemble it in a DIY manner?

Again, I'm just trying to educate myself. Not stand on any particular side....at least not yet.
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Old 07-25-2006, 05:25 PM   #14
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The reason aquamist systems cost a lot has to do with exchange rate, shipping, distributors, and all the other crap that's involved. It's a lot harder to send something from another country and sell it for the same price when it costs more to make. They also have parts which should probably be included in all systems, but aren't included in some companies systems(like relays ).

The kits made in america are basically diy kits where all the parts are put in a package for you in advance. You can go out and buy the same parts for less(from lowes or home depot or whatever) and make the same kit. Aquamist kits are comprised of parts which are only used in aquamist kits(as far as I know, but they might also be used in food industry or something?). You'd need to get the parts from aquamist, since they're the only ones who sell those parts(all the parts). They are engineered with form(weight, size, look), function, and quality in mind. They are not just parts that some random guy took off a shelf and called them special(like some companies do with their checkvalves or pumps). They actually are special.

On a parts specific note, I've looked around and notice that many of the aquamist parts are the same price or less expensive then that of american companies. You could cut down costs by switching parts with less expensive ones(like the pump), and from what I hear aquamist is actually making kits which will take this into consideration(by having different configurations with less expensive parts(like a shurflow pump))........ Course this is just my opinion from what I've heard/seen, and I'm no expert.

peace

Last edited by hippy; 07-25-2006 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:15 AM   #15
BadTrip
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I certainly understand and agree witht he exchange rate issues, and additional shipping costs, etc.
And I also do understand that, in what appears to be many instances, the parts and equipment are of higher grade with Aquamist stuff.
But man, it's just a hard pill to swallow......of course, it's also not truly an apples to apples comparison.

Ok....someone sponser me for an Aquamist kit.
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:00 AM   #16
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Hippy also why is the relay not grounded?
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:05 AM   #17
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The relay is grounded. The wire going to the utec spare solenoid is the ground for the "on" switch of the relay, which is where the current for the magnet in the relay goes to. That's why it's called utecs spare solenoid ground. It controls when the on switch for the relay is grounded, and in turn controls when the magnet inside connects the two peices of metal and sends current through to the device being powered. The ground coming off the pump is the ground for the current going through the connected pieces of metal in the relay after they have been connected.

peace

Last edited by hippy; 07-26-2006 at 11:14 AM.
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