Removing crank pulley....

silvershark · 08-13-2006, 11:27 PM

Ok, so I have a 1/2 rachet, 22mm socket a 3' breaker bar, car is a manual tranny so I have it in 5th gear and I have a piece of wood between the seat and the brake to apply the brake while trying to break loose the pulley bolt.

This method is not working... I can still turn the timing belt and pulleys over without the bolt breaking loose. I am a fairly strong person so strength is not the issue... I need to make sure the crank pulley doesnt move. I dont want to remove the tranny and put something between the flywheel....

Any other ideas?

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Unbeatable Biscuit · 08-14-2006, 12:48 AM

I was having trouble getting mine off my auto; a few ways are mentioned here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1028450

silvershark · 08-14-2006, 01:25 AM

I figured it out... I forgot i had the car jacked up still... long day. I lowered the car and bam it came right off.

I removed the waterpump and took a look at it. It seemed to be working fine. The portion where the belt moves the pump seemed to turn the fins just fine. The gaskets all looked fine as well. I am in the process of trying to figure out how to get the damn timing belt lined back up to my marks. I am having the worst time ever. I replaced the waterpump with a new one, doubt it was the cause of the problem, but at $60 bucks for a new one it needed one anyhow. It has 129k miles on it. At 126k the timing and all other belts were replaced...

Hopefully I can track down this over heating problem.

Calamity Jesus · 08-14-2006, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silvershark

I am in the process of trying to figure out how to get the damn timing belt lined back up to my marks. I am having the worst time ever.

Remove the sparkplugs, if you haven't already. That gets rid of the compression and keeps the crank from trying to fight the cams.

Hayes · 08-14-2006, 09:30 AM

Hopefully you have an OEM timeing belt. They have white lines to assist in getting the cams/crankshaft timing correct and, the belt has a direction.

BURTONRIDR · 08-14-2006, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silvershark

I figured it out... I forgot i had the car jacked up still... long day. I lowered the car and bam it came right off.

Hehe I hate it when I forget stuff like that..... hope you didnt rack your brains to hard before your noticed that.

Plays_With_toys · 08-14-2006, 03:45 PM

What I did with my SOHC was placed the belt on with the marking, then using a wood clamp (plastic C clamp looking thing) I locked it on the pulley, then I went and did the other side. It was a serious pain, but I eventually got it to go. Luckily with a SOHC I didn't have to worry about knicking valves against each other.

HamFist · 08-14-2006, 04:12 PM

Put a breaker bar on the bolt, and then brace it against the ground. JUST "BIP" the starter with the breaker bar firmly braced against the ground. It'll come right off

. Breaking the initial torque in the hardest part.

Skidd · 08-15-2006, 09:50 AM

There is a far easier way to break free that 22mm bad boy.
My crank pully (00RS) has 4 holes spaced around the 22mm bolt. These holes perfectly fit a standard 3/8 socket extension. Put 2 socket extensions in 2 of the holes. Then, with the 22mm socket and breaker bar in place, I used my tierod splitter wedged in between the extensions and my socket. With the handle of the splitter wedged agains some part of the block. Now.. your not relying on the drivetrain and all of it's slop to break it free. Plus.. when it comes time to torque that sucker back down, you'll get a much better result this way.

silvershark · 08-16-2006, 01:24 AM

Is there a certian way I am supposed to have the pulleys lined up? There are two indention marks on the top left pulley and the top right pulley... Then there are white lines from previous technicians on the pulleys... Which ones do I go by? There are total of 3 white lines per pulley and I havent a clue where to start. The bottom pulleys look like they have 1 indention per pulley and 1 white line per pulley.

I know that you are supposed to line up the white marks to the 12 o clock position in conjuntion with the notch on the timing cover deal, but I am unsure of which lines/indention to use.

I am using a stock belt with the dotted lines and the two solid lines.

Any help would be appreciated as I didnt find the info in the manual.

Thanks.

Tim Sanderson · 08-16-2006, 11:40 PM

Is this a sohc or dohc?

Sounds like dohc.

Top pulleys/ single mark on top, double mark on bottom.
Bottom pulleys/ double mark on top(matches up with top pulley), and single mark facing 90 degrees outward(matches belt)

08-13-2006, 11:27 PM	#1
silvershark Scooby Newbie Member#: 122703 Join Date: Aug 2006	Removing crank pulley.... Ok, so I have a 1/2 rachet, 22mm socket a 3' breaker bar, car is a manual tranny so I have it in 5th gear and I have a piece of wood between the seat and the brake to apply the brake while trying to break loose the pulley bolt. This method is not working... I can still turn the timing belt and pulleys over without the bolt breaking loose. I am a fairly strong person so strength is not the issue... I need to make sure the crank pulley doesnt move. I dont want to remove the tranny and put something between the flywheel.... Any other ideas? * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

08-15-2006, 09:50 AM	#9
Skidd Scooby Specialist Member#: 1853 Join Date: Jul 2000 Chapter/Region: TXIC Location: SA-TX (Hozer expat) Vehicle: GC6 Supercharged STM	There is a far easier way to break free that 22mm bad boy. My crank pully (00RS) has 4 holes spaced around the 22mm bolt. These holes perfectly fit a standard 3/8 socket extension. Put 2 socket extensions in 2 of the holes. Then, with the 22mm socket and breaker bar in place, I used my tierod splitter wedged in between the extensions and my socket. With the handle of the splitter wedged agains some part of the block. Now.. your not relying on the drivetrain and all of it's slop to break it free. Plus.. when it comes time to torque that sucker back down, you'll get a much better result this way. Last edited by Skidd; 08-15-2006 at 10:04 AM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
FS in CO: P&P Headers, Crank Pulley, Stock DP	charlesdixon	Engine/Power/Exhaust	4	06-04-2010 09:11 AM
Charleston sc, do any of you have the tool to remove crank pulley	GregBolby	South East Region Forum	4	04-01-2010 06:23 PM
Problem Removing crank pulley	ShagginWagon02	Newbies & FAQs	7	04-22-2009 06:31 PM
How do you remove Crank Pulley on an AT?	EdHilario	Normally Aspirated Powertrain	26	09-16-2007 09:59 PM
removing crank pulley on auto RS	2.5 Blue Roo	Service & Maintenance	13	07-06-2004 07:41 PM

08-14-2006, 12:48 AM	#2
Unbeatable Biscuit Scooby Newbie Member#: 95787 Join Date: Sep 2005 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Reno, NV Vehicle: 2003 OBS silver	I was having trouble getting mine off my auto; a few ways are mentioned here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1028450

08-14-2006, 01:25 AM	#3
silvershark Scooby Newbie Member#: 122703 Join Date: Aug 2006	I figured it out... I forgot i had the car jacked up still... long day. I lowered the car and bam it came right off. I removed the waterpump and took a look at it. It seemed to be working fine. The portion where the belt moves the pump seemed to turn the fins just fine. The gaskets all looked fine as well. I am in the process of trying to figure out how to get the damn timing belt lined back up to my marks. I am having the worst time ever. I replaced the waterpump with a new one, doubt it was the cause of the problem, but at $60 bucks for a new one it needed one anyhow. It has 129k miles on it. At 126k the timing and all other belts were replaced... Hopefully I can track down this over heating problem.

08-14-2006, 09:30 AM	#5
Hayes Scooby Specialist Member#: 11808 Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Cape Coral,FL	Hopefully you have an OEM timeing belt. They have white lines to assist in getting the cams/crankshaft timing correct and, the belt has a direction.

08-14-2006, 03:45 PM	#7
Plays_With_toys Scooby Specialist Member#: 82556 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Parker, Colorado Vehicle: 1996 Legacy L wagon	What I did with my SOHC was placed the belt on with the marking, then using a wood clamp (plastic C clamp looking thing) I locked it on the pulley, then I went and did the other side. It was a serious pain, but I eventually got it to go. Luckily with a SOHC I didn't have to worry about knicking valves against each other.

08-14-2006, 04:12 PM	#8
HamFist Scooby Specialist Member#: 2112 Join Date: Aug 2000 Chapter/Region: MWSOC	Put a breaker bar on the bolt, and then brace it against the ground. JUST "BIP" the starter with the breaker bar firmly braced against the ground. It'll come right off . Breaking the initial torque in the hardest part.

08-16-2006, 01:24 AM	#10
silvershark Scooby Newbie Member#: 122703 Join Date: Aug 2006	Is there a certian way I am supposed to have the pulleys lined up? There are two indention marks on the top left pulley and the top right pulley... Then there are white lines from previous technicians on the pulleys... Which ones do I go by? There are total of 3 white lines per pulley and I havent a clue where to start. The bottom pulleys look like they have 1 indention per pulley and 1 white line per pulley. I know that you are supposed to line up the white marks to the 12 o clock position in conjuntion with the notch on the timing cover deal, but I am unsure of which lines/indention to use. I am using a stock belt with the dotted lines and the two solid lines. Any help would be appreciated as I didnt find the info in the manual. Thanks.

08-16-2006, 11:40 PM	#11
Tim Sanderson Scooby Guru Member#: 6486 Join Date: May 2001 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: S.E. wisconsin Vehicle: 00 Impreza 2.5 RS Blue Ridge Pearl	Is this a sohc or dohc? Sounds like dohc. Top pulleys/ single mark on top, double mark on bottom. Bottom pulleys/ double mark on top(matches up with top pulley), and single mark facing 90 degrees outward(matches belt)