Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday October 31, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-13-2006, 11:27 PM   #1
silvershark
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122703
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default Removing crank pulley....

Ok, so I have a 1/2 rachet, 22mm socket a 3' breaker bar, car is a manual tranny so I have it in 5th gear and I have a piece of wood between the seat and the brake to apply the brake while trying to break loose the pulley bolt.

This method is not working... I can still turn the timing belt and pulleys over without the bolt breaking loose. I am a fairly strong person so strength is not the issue... I need to make sure the crank pulley doesnt move. I dont want to remove the tranny and put something between the flywheel....

Any other ideas?
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
silvershark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 12:48 AM   #2
Unbeatable Biscuit
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 95787
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Reno, NV
Vehicle:
2003 OBS
silver

Default

I was having trouble getting mine off my auto; a few ways are mentioned here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1028450
Unbeatable Biscuit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 01:25 AM   #3
silvershark
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122703
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

I figured it out... I forgot i had the car jacked up still... long day. I lowered the car and bam it came right off.

I removed the waterpump and took a look at it. It seemed to be working fine. The portion where the belt moves the pump seemed to turn the fins just fine. The gaskets all looked fine as well. I am in the process of trying to figure out how to get the damn timing belt lined back up to my marks. I am having the worst time ever. I replaced the waterpump with a new one, doubt it was the cause of the problem, but at $60 bucks for a new one it needed one anyhow. It has 129k miles on it. At 126k the timing and all other belts were replaced...

Hopefully I can track down this over heating problem.
silvershark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 09:02 AM   #4
Calamity Jesus
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 44501
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: in a minefield of caddishness.
Vehicle:
1984 "Skeletor from
"He-Man"

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershark
I am in the process of trying to figure out how to get the damn timing belt lined back up to my marks. I am having the worst time ever.
Remove the sparkplugs, if you haven't already. That gets rid of the compression and keeps the crank from trying to fight the cams.
Calamity Jesus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 09:30 AM   #5
Hayes
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 11808
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Cape Coral,FL
Default

Hopefully you have an OEM timeing belt. They have white lines to assist in getting the cams/crankshaft timing correct and, the belt has a direction.
Hayes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 02:02 PM   #6
BURTONRIDR
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 72132
Join Date: Oct 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Spokane, WA
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy GT
White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershark
I figured it out... I forgot i had the car jacked up still... long day. I lowered the car and bam it came right off.

Hehe I hate it when I forget stuff like that..... hope you didnt rack your brains to hard before your noticed that.
BURTONRIDR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 03:45 PM   #7
Plays_With_toys
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:
1996 Legacy L wagon

Default

What I did with my SOHC was placed the belt on with the marking, then using a wood clamp (plastic C clamp looking thing) I locked it on the pulley, then I went and did the other side. It was a serious pain, but I eventually got it to go. Luckily with a SOHC I didn't have to worry about knicking valves against each other.
Plays_With_toys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 04:12 PM   #8
HamFist
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 2112
Join Date: Aug 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5RS
BRP

Default

Put a breaker bar on the bolt, and then brace it against the ground. JUST "BIP" the starter with the breaker bar firmly braced against the ground. It'll come right off . Breaking the initial torque in the hardest part.
HamFist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2006, 09:50 AM   #9
Skidd
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 1853
Join Date: Jul 2000
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: SA-TX (Hozer expat)
Vehicle:
GC6 Supercharged
STM

Default

There is a far easier way to break free that 22mm bad boy.
My crank pully (00RS) has 4 holes spaced around the 22mm bolt. These holes perfectly fit a standard 3/8 socket extension. Put 2 socket extensions in 2 of the holes. Then, with the 22mm socket and breaker bar in place, I used my tierod splitter wedged in between the extensions and my socket. With the handle of the splitter wedged agains some part of the block. Now.. your not relying on the drivetrain and all of it's slop to break it free. Plus.. when it comes time to torque that sucker back down, you'll get a much better result this way.

Last edited by Skidd; 08-15-2006 at 10:04 AM.
Skidd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2006, 01:24 AM   #10
silvershark
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122703
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

Is there a certian way I am supposed to have the pulleys lined up? There are two indention marks on the top left pulley and the top right pulley... Then there are white lines from previous technicians on the pulleys... Which ones do I go by? There are total of 3 white lines per pulley and I havent a clue where to start. The bottom pulleys look like they have 1 indention per pulley and 1 white line per pulley.

I know that you are supposed to line up the white marks to the 12 o clock position in conjuntion with the notch on the timing cover deal, but I am unsure of which lines/indention to use.

I am using a stock belt with the dotted lines and the two solid lines.

Any help would be appreciated as I didnt find the info in the manual.

Thanks.
silvershark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2006, 11:40 PM   #11
Tim Sanderson
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 6486
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: S.E. wisconsin
Vehicle:
00 Impreza 2.5 RS
Blue Ridge Pearl

Default

Is this a sohc or dohc?

Sounds like dohc.

Top pulleys/ single mark on top, double mark on bottom.
Bottom pulleys/ double mark on top(matches up with top pulley), and single mark facing 90 degrees outward(matches belt)
Tim Sanderson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS in CO: P&P Headers, Crank Pulley, Stock DP charlesdixon Engine/Power/Exhaust 4 06-04-2010 09:11 AM
Charleston sc, do any of you have the tool to remove crank pulley GregBolby South East Region Forum 4 04-01-2010 06:23 PM
Problem Removing crank pulley ShagginWagon02 Newbies & FAQs 7 04-22-2009 06:31 PM
How do you remove Crank Pulley on an AT? EdHilario Normally Aspirated Powertrain 26 09-16-2007 09:59 PM
removing crank pulley on auto RS 2.5 Blue Roo Service & Maintenance 13 07-06-2004 07:41 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.