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Old 08-24-2006, 06:06 PM   #26
BURTONRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mi_cistemz_loudr
I guess it would help for it to be hooked up. Gimme a bit, gotta download drivers and install crap.
Thanks
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:14 PM   #27
t3hWIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Thanks
Go eat dinner. Take a nap. Something. I started downloading after I posted that and its at a whopping 14% for the software dl for the printer. It's moving at 22kbs which is freakin ridiculous. My internet is over 100mbs.
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:43 PM   #28
t3hWIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Head torque pattern:
<-front (drivers side)
3-1-6
5-2-4

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Head torque spec:
Step 1: 22 ft/lb
Step 2: 51 ft/lb
Step 3: Loosen all bolts 180 degrees
Step 4: Loosen all bolts and additional 180 degrees
Step 5 (bolts 1 and 2 ONLY): 25 ft/lb
Step 6 (bolts 3, 4, 5, and 6 ONLY): 132 in-lbs (11 ft/lb)
Step 7: Tighten all bolts an additional 90 degrees
Step 8: Tighten all bolts an additional 90 degrees
It's a PITA but I've had no problems with it. For step 6, I used a 20-100something Craftsman torque wrench and just turned it down to where 11 would be. There is a faint click, but again, it worked on mine and it worked both times my buddy changed the Cometic on his DSM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
cam retainer pattern and torque spec:
Would this be referred as the rocker arm assembly or the bearing caps for the camshaft? I just do the work, I dont speak the language. I have specs for both, so once I get this cleared up I'll post it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
camshaft torque spec:
Is this a 2.2 or a 2.5? Do you need the retainer caps specs (2.5L), thesprocket, or the seal retainer/support (2.2)? Again, I have these specs, I just need this cleared up as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Crankshaft torque spec:
Pulley bolt? 70-80lb on the 2.2, 90-100 on the 2.5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Idler pulley torque spec:
not listed

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Water pump bolt pattern and torque spec:
84-120 inch lbs in a "criss cross pattern"

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Oil pan bolt torque pattern and spec:
36-48 inch lbs, tightening from the center to the corners

Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Oil pump torque pattern and spec:
48-60 inch lbs, no specific pattern


These are just to hold you over, I'll scan and post the images when the software finishes downloading. (woohoo, 15%!)
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:25 PM   #29
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I'm not going to be able to get these scanned, I have to wait for a cd from HP. If you need anything else, feel to pm me or just reply in this thread.
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Old 08-24-2006, 09:50 PM   #30
problemcat13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Dude pray you took it to a good shop, I dont trust shops. Everytime I take it to one (unless its an oil change or tire work) they either do it wrong or they forget something and I pay way to much. For example just before I decided to do this I took it to a shop to fix what Im fixing myself right now($900 dollar mistake). It is now going to cost me around $500 to replace gaskets, buy tools, etc and do it right. Sorry im still a little angry with them.
I understand that for sure. I do my brakes myself, many other things not too major (spark plugs, some mods), but I had the dealer do my head gasket since it was under warranty anyhow (gives me another year warranty for their work!).

Of course, that's the great thing about the community here on Nabisco, you can pop a question when you run into something strange. Mainly, I just don't have the time (commute 2.25 hours a day, work 9 hours, have a 2 year old and a 2 month old, and when I get home, it's MY TURN!)

Good luck on your work man. I might even have something to add one day, as I'm not a complete stranger to working on cars!
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:45 AM   #31
Russell Rogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLUTION
The Subaru service manual does not say to replace the head bolts.
Every single Subaru Mechanic and race car mechanic I have ever talked to says change them everytime. Its common metallurgy. Let alone the fact that I am a trained mechanic I would never not change them. But I am anal and think of safety before being cheap.
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:27 AM   #32
BURTONRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mi_cistemz_loudr
Would this be referred as the rocker arm assembly or the bearing caps for the camshaft? I just do the work, I dont speak the language. I have specs for both, so once I get this cleared up I'll post it.
Im not sure on the name specificaly... it is the parts that hold the cam shaft in place, there are (3) of them per cam shaft a total of 6 bolts per cam shaft.... I dont know how this engine could have a rocker arm assembly since it doesnt have any rocker arms.... it must be the bearing caps. I believe they have a torque pattern as well.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:08 AM   #33
BURTONRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
Every single Subaru Mechanic and race car mechanic I have ever talked to says change them everytime. Its common metallurgy. Let alone the fact that I am a trained mechanic I would never not change them. But I am anal and think of safety before being cheap.

Yesh... I know, I know.... Im gonna replace them, I just really dont want to buy new ones this is getting expensive quick.

Head bolts $135.98
Head Gaskets $111
Water pump $50
CV Shaft $80
Light weight pulley $110
Headers $210
Sti motor mounts $98
Crank gear $36

Strap wrench $36
3 prong puller $30

Total $896.98

Plus I just spent over $900 on having a stupid shop do basicaly nothing....arrrgghhh

I should have bought an engine off ebay and a cherry picker
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:30 PM   #34
Russell Rogers
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Yeah Things seem to add up quick. See if you can't find some ARP head Studs for cheaper.
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:39 PM   #35
BURTONRIDR
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Yay the dealership had the head gaskets for cheaper $40 ea
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:41 PM   #36
BURTONRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
Yeah Things seem to add up quick. See if you can't find some ARP head Studs for cheaper.
I would but studs would make things impossible since Im doing the work with the engine in the car...... Wish I had a cherry picker and a engine holder thingy Add to christmas wish list
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:36 PM   #37
Tim Sanderson
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Ouch, your doing this in the car?

How's the back holding up?
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Old 08-25-2006, 09:46 PM   #38
t3hWIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Yay the dealership had the head gaskets for cheaper $40 ea
I paid $30 at Autozone for ROL. Cometic is $40, which I didnt know about until I already had the ROL's compressed.
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Old 08-25-2006, 09:48 PM   #39
t3hWIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Im not sure on the name specificaly... it is the parts that hold the cam shaft in place, there are (3) of them per cam shaft a total of 6 bolts per cam shaft.... I dont know how this engine could have a rocker arm assembly since it doesnt have any rocker arms.... it must be the bearing caps. I believe they have a torque pattern as well.
Ok dude. The "Camshaft retainer caps," only listed for the 2.5 motor, are 70-90 inch-lbs.
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Old 08-28-2006, 11:32 AM   #40
BURTONRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Sanderson View Post
Ouch, your doing this in the car?

How's the back holding up?
Good so far, but yeah it gets sore after an hour or two
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Old 08-28-2006, 11:40 AM   #41
BURTONRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mi_cistemz_loudr View Post
Ok dude. The "Camshaft retainer caps," only listed for the 2.5 motor, are 70-90 inch-lbs.
Sweet thanks

Now the only thing im waiting on is for the head bolt to get here, I should have them by friday, I hope I get them sooner its getting cold here. I have to ride my motorcycle when I cant drive my car.
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Old 08-28-2006, 03:13 PM   #42
BURTONRIDR
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I need the torque spec for the bolt that holds the cam pulleys on and the bolt the holds the crank pulley on. Does anyone know what they are?
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:58 AM   #43
BURTONRIDR
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***Update: 97 legacy outback

Everything is put back together and its runs amazing. I only ran into one issue after I got it put back together this weekend. I forgot to plug in the water temperature sending unit, so I wasnt getting a reading on my temp gauge. After I plugged it in though everything looked good.

Here is a recap of everything that was replaced/upgraded/fixed:

1. Perrin Lightwieght pulley
2. Ground mod
3. Sti Motor mounts
4. Borla Headers
5. Custom short ram intake
6. New Crank gear
7. New idler pulley
8. New head gaskets
9. New Head bolts
10. New water pump
11. New water pump gasket
12. New front main seal
13. New oil pan gasket
14. New Timing belt
15. Fixed front O2 Sensor connection

I think thats about it.

I still need to do more work next weekend but the engine is taken care of.

After all that work I am very pleased with the results. The throttle response is amazing, it is great through the entire RPM range. I love the pull that the engine gives, its hard to be nice on the throttle now I need to be though for a few hundred miles and then change the oil again and I should be good to go

Thanks for all the help from everyone
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:02 AM   #44
t3hWIT
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Thanks for the update, glad it all worked out ok.
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Old 09-05-2006, 07:42 PM   #45
FrodoTBaggins
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Quote:
However the reason Im changing the head gasket is because the engine over heated very bad
If the car is overheating and you recently did HG's maybe you should send the heads out to be checked. We do alot of them and we send out more than50% of them to have the cylinder deck machined and they check for leaky valve seals. You should look into that!
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Old 09-06-2006, 10:16 AM   #46
BURTONRIDR
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I did a compression test on all four cylinders before I started and they held pressure fine.
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