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Old 01-31-2012, 08:23 PM   #2476
blakjak00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
im very interested to see how my 5mt with taller gears will work with the vf37. will make for minimal shifting for drags and i will build boost faster... but it may feel laggy unlike your monster fierysun. i found a fairly off brand turbo online that had good reviews on here. ppl were knocking on it but i would like to try it still. you should pm me info on it so i dont make the same mistake incase i am thinking the same thing.
Are you talking about Tomioka Racing's 20G? That's what I have. I strongly suggest anyone to pony up the dough and go with the more expensive blouch unit. However if you would rather try the Tomioka Racing turbo, I'll gladly sell you mine for FAR LESS than the cost of new. Maybe 2-3k miles on it.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:35 PM   #2477
WhiteBgeye02
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kinugawa turbo's actually. ppl with evo's love these things too. im going to hold off on a larger turbo for now so i can beat a local guy in stock modified class for autox lol
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:36 PM   #2478
blakjak00
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Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
kinugawa turbo's actually. ppl with evo's love these things too. im going to hold off on a larger turbo for now so i can beat a local guy in stock modified class for autox lol
Ah, haven't seen anything on those. Guess we'll see how they do.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:01 PM   #2479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
kinugawa turbo's actually. ppl with evo's love these things too. im going to hold off on a larger turbo for now so i can beat a local guy in stock modified class for autox lol
This is the first time i have heard of that brand. They certainly are affordable.

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/su...covertype.aspx

Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:17 PM   #2480
blakjak00
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Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
This is the first time i have heard of that brand. They certainly are affordable.

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/su...covertype.aspx

Let us know how it turns out.
DAMN, that's half the cost of the one I bought. Like Godspeed pricing

Not out much if you don't like it at least.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:52 AM   #2481
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Ok a couple simple questions: I apologize if its been asked in here.
-After all this time, ive been reading my idle incorrectly. I always thought it was below 500, but I guess that mark is actually the 750 mark. Anyway, my needle settle just below the 750 line when its warm. Im guessing around 600 min to 700 max. Is that too low of an idle when fully warmed up?

-Secondly- I have emissions coming up. I am in CT. I plan on taking out my JDM ECU and just using a USDM ECU and just put a temporary tune, shut off any CEL, and run it for 100-200 miles. That should pass it then, correct? Just want to make sure. And anyone know any places in CT that DONT do visual inspection? Cus i dont wanna swap my catless dp, but i will if need be. Ive heard people passing on the JDM ECU fully catless in CT. I have a month. Just wanna prepare in advance.
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:42 PM   #2482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubert39 View Post
Ok a couple simple questions: I apologize if its been asked in here.
-After all this time, ive been reading my idle incorrectly. I always thought it was below 500, but I guess that mark is actually the 750 mark. Anyway, my needle settle just below the 750 line when its warm. Im guessing around 600 min to 700 max. Is that too low of an idle when fully warmed up?

-Secondly- I have emissions coming up. I am in CT. I plan on taking out my JDM ECU and just using a USDM ECU and just put a temporary tune, shut off any CEL, and run it for 100-200 miles. That should pass it then, correct? Just want to make sure. And anyone know any places in CT that DONT do visual inspection? Cus i dont wanna swap my catless dp, but i will if need be. Ive heard people passing on the JDM ECU fully catless in CT. I have a month. Just wanna prepare in advance.
i passed CT inspection a while back fully catless and on the JDM ecu, things might have changed since then, but throwing in a USDM ecu with no CELs should definitely get you to pass almost anywhere. IIRC, norwalk didnt give me a visual inspection.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:21 PM   #2483
Jubert39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi

i passed CT inspection a while back fully catless and on the JDM ecu, things might have changed since then, but throwing in a USDM ecu with no CELs should definitely get you to pass almost anywhere. IIRC, norwalk didnt give me a visual inspection.
Thanks! Yea i dont mind swapping ecus cus that takes 10 min. I just dont wanna do the down pipe install haha
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:57 PM   #2484
sk8boylou
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are there certain ob2 readers that work with jdm v7,8,9 ecus?

Last edited by sk8boylou; 02-01-2012 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:03 PM   #2485
WhiteBgeye02
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so kinda an oddball question but does anyone know the size of the up pipe tubes on the v8 TS setup? i need to get some materials for ewg and want to know the size so i can order accordingly before it arrives. my best guess is 1.5" OD but just wondering since it is made in japan and might use metric units/sizes.
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:53 PM   #2486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02
im very interested to see how my 5mt with taller gears will work with the vf37. will make for minimal shifting for drags and i will build boost faster... but it may feel laggy unlike your monster fierysun. i found a fairly off brand turbo online that had good reviews on here. ppl were knocking on it but i would like to try it still. you should pm me info on it so i dont make the same mistake incase i am thinking the same thing.
What type of gears did u get put in, or is it still the stock one tranny in there??
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:59 PM   #2487
WhiteBgeye02
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ppgs will be getting a lsd front diff. so the v8 will be matched to the stock 05 5mt for a few months with stock clutch. going to limit boost to like 15psi so i dont push huge numbers....
anyone got a size of the up pipe for stock twin scroll manifold?
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:31 PM   #2488
WhiteBgeye02
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really??? no one has one of these not in there car? just need the circumference of one of the pipes please!
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/vendor-a...r-70-a-31.html

dual ewg project needs some nasioc help!
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:48 PM   #2489
Dr. octagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
This is the first time i have heard of that brand. They certainly are affordable.

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/su...covertype.aspx

Let us know how it turns out.

Kinugawa is good ****.........ask fuji k, he has experience with kinugawa/kamak products.
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:00 PM   #2490
WhiteBgeye02
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maybe in a few months when i decide i want more top end punch. anyone know the up pipe size? it would be pretty sweet if someone could hook me up!
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Old 02-06-2012, 04:37 PM   #2491
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The up pipe size is the same as the runners on the stock header. So if you have the stock header then use that size for the up-pipe.
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:05 PM   #2492
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Hi Everyone,

I've read through every single page in this thread. Please bear with some of my questions as some of the earlier posts have been refuted by later posts. I am gathering as much information as I could before place an order for a EJ207 to replace the EJ205 in my 02 bugeye. Here is the plan:

Ver 7 EJ207 (Spec C if price is reasonable) complete motor
NO 6-Spd for now.

Items to purchase in addition to the motor:
Walboro 255
New clutch for the 5 spd
IA Performance AVCS Wiring kit
Tuning to detune for 91 Cali gas

As far as the clutch goes, since I'll be doing the 6 spd next year, can I go with a stock replacement for now? I found these on Amazon:
EXEDY-KSB03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch
EXEDY FJK1000 OEM Replacement Clutch KitEXEDY FJK1000 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit
. What's the difference between the two? I would go with something a bit more aggressive, but since I'll have it for only about a year, I don't want to spend too much on it and then having to buy a new clutch that is 6 Spd specific.

Other items to buy?
What other items should I consider buying while the engine it out
Am I leaving something else out?

Thanks
-Jeff
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:40 PM   #2493
kayen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efiniluvr View Post
Hi Everyone,

I've read through every single page in this thread. Please bear with some of my questions as some of the earlier posts have been refuted by later posts. I am gathering as much information as I could before place an order for a EJ207 to replace the EJ205 in my 02 bugeye. Here is the plan:

Ver 7 EJ207 (Spec C if price is reasonable) complete motor
NO 6-Spd for now.

Items to purchase in addition to the motor:
Walboro 255
New clutch for the 5 spd
IA Performance AVCS Wiring kit
Tuning to detune for 91 Cali gas

As far as the clutch goes, since I'll be doing the 6 spd next year, can I go with a stock replacement for now? I found these on Amazon:
EXEDY-KSB03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch
EXEDY FJK1000 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit. What's the difference between the two? I would go with something a bit more aggressive, but since I'll have it for only about a year, I don't want to spend too much on it and then having to buy a new clutch that is 6 Spd specific.

Other items to buy?
What other items should I consider buying while the engine it out
Am I leaving something else out?

Thanks
-Jeff
You can use a 5 Speed Clutch and Flywheel on a 6 Speed. You just can't mix and match the Clutch and Flywheel between the two different transmissions. As the Clutch won't bolt to the Flywheel as the bolt pattern and the amount of bolts are different.
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:18 PM   #2494
Clark Turner
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You made a mistake when you said DETUNE for 91. The recalibration for fuel comes with increased power. The stock file is low power.

C
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:23 PM   #2495
WhiteBgeye02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deraj_53 View Post
The up pipe size is the same as the runners on the stock header. So if you have the stock header then use that size for the up-pipe.
i have niether. engine wont be here for like 10 more days and want the supplies here so i can mock it up the next day since i have a transmission in my garage i cac bolt up and then just approx were the firewall will be using the halfshaft and downpipe as reference points to measure off of.
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:33 PM   #2496
WhiteBgeye02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efiniluvr View Post
Hi Everyone,

I've read through every single page in this thread. Please bear with some of my questions as some of the earlier posts have been refuted by later posts. I am gathering as much information as I could before place an order for a EJ207 to replace the EJ205 in my 02 bugeye. Here is the plan:

Ver 7 EJ207 (Spec C if price is reasonable) complete motor
NO 6-Spd for now.

Items to purchase in addition to the motor:
Walboro 255
New clutch for the 5 spd
IA Performance AVCS Wiring kit
Tuning to detune for 91 Cali gas

As far as the clutch goes, since I'll be doing the 6 spd next year, can I go with a stock replacement for now? I found these on Amazon:
EXEDY-KSB03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch
EXEDY FJK1000 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit. What's the difference between the two? I would go with something a bit more aggressive, but since I'll have it for only about a year, I don't want to spend too much on it and then having to buy a new clutch that is 6 Spd specific.

Other items to buy?
What other items should I consider buying while the engine it out
Am I leaving something else out?

Thanks
-Jeff
just personally since the car will be an overall increase in power i would stick to the oem clutch and not go more aggressive. dont slip the clutch on takeoffs and dont launch it and it will hold for a year no problem. got to remember that you want to save your 5mt instead of throwing 700 bucks out the window for another used one. your clutch is what will save your tranny if you make a bad shift unless its completely dropping it and pounding gears. then its your own fault lol. just saying that if its stock it will slightly slip on engagement for harsher shifts and will take the hit instead of the gears taking the shock load.

i am in the same process right now. also make sure you got fresh 5 qts of oil on hand and a gallon of concentrated coolant so you can fill it up right away and turn it over by hand to get the oil into places it might have not been for a while. i actually from a reputable member on here that they overfilled it by 2 qts while it was out of the car. spun it over by hand about 20-30 times so the oil could get into all the nooks and crannies. then drained most of it out and put it back in before startup. that way everything gets covered inside really good from the overfilling of the crank case. just dont put 7 qts in and turn the engine over with the starter. bad things could happen!

also make sure you have all the tools necessary. maybe ask someone who has pulled one before to help or just generally knowledgeable ppl even. not saying you dont know what your doing but yeah you get the gist of it.

lastly watch out for the spec c stuff as well as the s202/3 engines. i guess some vendors in the past have just added the basic external stuff ppl knew were on spec c engines and sold them as is. always get a picture of the engine code that is a sticker on the timing cover. then post it on here and either myself or another member can tell you what car its out of. i got a excel file that has all of the 01-05model year cars listed. basically v6-v9. otherwise looks like you got it all figured out.

well on second thought idk how good the jdm motor mounts are or if yours will even come with them. the wrx ones suck after you up the hp and such so i would upgrade. you can get the megan racing setup with pitch stop and trans mounts for like 200 bucks i believe and i know a few ppl that are running them well into the 400 hp range without them failing. this includes hard launches and such which is when the engine is under huge rotational load.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:44 PM   #2497
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efiniluvr- I am in the same exact boat as you but I plan to just run the 5 speed tranny as long as I can. Don't forget to change out all the timing components. Is anyone running a lightened flywheel on this motor?

The only problem I'm having is finding a good vendor. I've been emailing everyone I can but they never provide enough details. I mean if you're willing to spend thousands of dollars, you would think as good business practice they would bend over backwards for you. Anyway, anyone with good vendor experience please let me know! I'm ready to buy but so far lack the confidence in a vendor.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:19 AM   #2498
Vlad
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I'm running the 5 speed Sti lightweight flywheel. Works, no problem.
The stock clutch kit as well, I was trying to stay away from chatter, got it anyway with the flywheel.
The clutch is holding up, the 5 speed seems to hold up as well.

To be honest, I don't take the car to the dragstrip and don't dragrace it and also don't launch it.
My biggest fear was/is that 3rd will let go due to all the tuning pulls, at my torque level, which is certainly climbing, with the cold weather. I might get close to 350ftlb when the temperature gets into the teens.

But, somewhat surprising and pleasing, the 5 speed is holding up. My previous clutch was not done yet at 130K miles and numerous pulls, even launches back in the early days.
This clutch (also OEM) is not slipping, but starting to catch really high in the travel. And this is after less than one year and probably 8k miles.
I have to check the pedal rod adjustment though.

I guess I underestimated the 5 speed and overestimated the OEM clutch.

Jut to let you guys know, I did blow up this 5 speed, back in 2005, after doing 20 or so 1/4 mile passes, with a G-meter, at the 160-180WHP level.
I had it rebuilt with the Subaru TSB's.
At that time the 1/2 combo got stripped, both pinions and driven wheels.
I got the stronger main shaft and the 3-4 upgraded sleeve.

I'm starting to think more and more that for my lifestyle, the 5 speed can handle the engine. I wish I had thought about this more seriously in the past and had put a higher spec clutch in it.
It does make sense however that a light clamp clutch protects this 5 speed.

The point of this is that the 5 speed is quite lighter than the 6 speed, mostly in rotational weight. When you factor in the R180 vs the R160, the savings are quite obvious and probably noticeable.
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:30 AM   #2499
WhiteBgeye02
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the 6speed weights like 100 lbs more as it is. plus rotational weight. hubs, r180 and brakes you could be seeing upwards of 400 plus lbs being adding. rotational weight adds more than many ppl think.

Vlad-whats your setup that you have that much wtq? im looking to get like 325 onthe vf37 on e85 but that was prob it. or am i wrong? also going with dual ewg while its out and fabbing is easy.
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:33 AM   #2500
Vlad
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What you just described translates into:

From a given CHP, I would get more WHP than your average 6 speed guy. This proportionally translates into more torque as well.

I am cheating even further:

Carbon fiber driveshaft in the rear, Brembo GT in the front. The GT shave 5 lb of rotational when compared to the minuscule WRX front brakes, while being larger in diameter than the Brembo Sti.

When I say "cheating", I refer to my theory that a lighterweight drivetrain has smaller losses, I'm not saying that I enter a full weight WRX in the dyno and get an inflated reading.
It is true however, that I am also not compensating for rotational mass. Meaning, I should enter in the dyno a corrected value of weight, in which I subtract all rotational mass multiplied by it's correction factor. I am not doing this, so I guess in that sense I am cheating.
The software accounts and corrects for the rotational mass of the wheels and of the 5 speed vs 6 speed. But not the driveshaft and brake rotors.
As far as the rest, I put together my own EvoIII 16g Twinscroll with a 10sqcm turbine housing. I'm using an updated actuator and the FP supply line, APS inlet, KStech large maf tube, with an AEM intake with dryflow. Grimspeed BCS, Prodrive downpipe and exhaust, converted to twinscroll, GR Sti TMIC, with Spec C functional autowash.

I dynoed 345.4ftlb at the wheels with Ecutek road dyno. I did go through the trouble of weighing myself and a full tank of gas and entering that in the software. When you do that, it's said to be between a dynamics and a mustang, optimism-wise. Third gear, 60F weather.
Also, tuning biased a bit more on timing gets a bit more torque, depending on the situation.

Last edited by Vlad; 02-07-2012 at 10:26 AM.
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