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Old 03-01-2012, 11:38 AM   #2751
LIQUIDSK8S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby
It also starts up on like half a crank, the starter motor barely makes a revolution and its already running.
I wish mine was like that, takes a couple cranks to turnover. Wonder if I should buy a new starter.
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:06 PM   #2752
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okay started it up tonight. she started right up and died. have to give it some gas to get it to go then idled like ****. cel came on right away.
calls for maf sensor high AND low input, and iat sensor high input. not sure how the hell i can have a high and low input at the same time but im sure without logging that its why its starting like dog ****.

otherwise for the 45 seconds i let it run it sounded great. no ticks or anything from the valvetrain.

as far as discussing what engine i had before i was wrong about the cruise control. its has a bracket to hold both wires but the throttle body lacks two of the half circle thingys and only has one which i used for throttle. so no cruise control as of now. does this change what the engine actually is or just this engine came on a car without cruise control option?
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:59 PM   #2753
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You will get those codes if the maf is unplugged. Make sure its plugged in and seated. Also. If your v7 has an intake temp sensor under the manifold, unplug it. Your 05wrx is not wired for it. The last thing you need to make sure of is that you do not have your Blow by connector installed or shorted out. Some Turbo inlets came with a shorting plug for the blow by connector as there was no place for the sensor. The JDM ecu does not use this sensor.





C
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:00 PM   #2754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02

as far as discussing what engine i had before i was wrong about the cruise control. its has a bracket to hold both wires but the throttle body lacks two of the half circle thingys and only has one which i used for throttle. so no cruise control as of now. does this change what the engine actually is or just this engine came on a car without cruise control option?
Might be a EDM or ADM engine mate.
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:04 PM   #2755
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yeah kinda what i figured. like it was unplugged or something but it wasn't. i cleaned it right away and letting it dry over night. had to take a die to my axle threads in the mean time before she is complete.

as far as blow by connector its the black thing on top of the turbo inlet right before the turbo? i saw it on the 05 engine but it all stayed with the engine and now its whatever the v8 engine came with

since you mention v7 do you mean v8 as well for the intake temp sensor under the mani? were would it be? i didnt see anything when i had the ac/ps/ac units off.
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:14 PM   #2756
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I think he meant under the throttle body?
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:25 AM   #2757
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Clark, have you run the IAT manifold sensor on your cars?

Mine is giving me no problems (wired to the correct pin in the ECU, but not active), I'm trying to figure the logic though.

I'm only talking OEM here, it's easy to cut and splice in whichever you want:

All OEM IAT calibrations are the same, suggesting the pick up from the same location/type sensor. The SD calibration is different, suggesting it takes input from the IM IAT sensor.
To me, the SD rom is a rom picked up from somebody that had a group N ECU and slightly develloped from there, so I consider it an OEM Rom, not a tuned rom.

The Non Spec C cars get the Group N ECU as an option, the Spec C don't. This I've seen in the applicabillity note, I believe it's a fact.

It's said (in Romraider), that the Group N ECU is spliced internally, to transfer pins for the IAT from MAF to IM. If you know this to be incorrect, please say so.

From the above 3 items, I belive the Spec C does not need to have the input for the IAT sensor respliced, because it's ECU can do the transfer from one input to another, maybe based on a table, or maybe based on "group N conditions" being met.

I speculate it may run in Group N mode with a reflash. I know many ran SD with a reflash in many cars, including USDM WRX, with the USDM ECU.
What I'm trying to say is that it will switch temp sensors with a reflash, as it starts to run in Group N mode.

Do you know anything about switching in a table in the ECU? I ask you this, because I have seen your posts from the ECUTEK days and know that generally speaking, you see more tables when you look at an ECUTEK list. I have looked at the ROmraider lineup, I know what's available with that. I am even thinking that ecuedit doesn't have all the capabillities Ecutek has.

On a more general level, would you agree that a good starting point in running the IM sensor is to use the calibration settings from the SD rom?

Last edited by Vlad; 03-02-2012 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:34 PM   #2758
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I switched the IAT wires from the maf to the intake manifold sensor for running the Carberry rom, used the same IAT scaling and it seems to work perfect.
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:39 AM   #2759
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Has anyone noticed that it takes longer for their ej207 to get to operating temp?
Im assuming it has to do with the block design itself?
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:57 AM   #2760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Has anyone noticed that it takes longer for their ej207 to get to operating temp?
Im assuming it has to do with the block design itself?
it seemed about the same time when i swapped mine while keeping the stock radiator, however i recall it took a bit more time when i used 15w40, but not that much significantly more time.

If you have a larger volume radiator it will take alot longer to warm up.

Moving back to the NE, makes me want to get a block heater because of my PWR radiator, even with the normal 180* t-stat. I cant wait for it to be above 60!
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:16 AM   #2761
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I'm here in AZ so I need all the cooling I can get.
I have a Mishimoto radiator, which has worked perfectly for 4 years and 100k miles.
Did anyone have problems with the TS headers hitting the radiator or hoses?
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:10 PM   #2762
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The only problem I had with the headers was it was hitting the radiator fan shrouds, but I swapped it into a 95L so the clearence is probably a little smaller. Because of that I'm on my third radiator hose in a month that's been eaten by the radiator fan , alternator pulley and power steering pulley.... I really need the radiator for a 94 legacy that gets the hose out of the way.
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:25 PM   #2763
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I remember having to slightly cut one of the support brackets on the back of radiator fans to clear the TS Headers with the Mishimoto Radiator.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:20 PM   #2764
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Ok, so I might need to trim the shroud some.

Clark mentioned that an aftermarket oil cooler wasn't recommended or needed for most applications. But being here in AZ, where daytime highs regularly hit 115 or higher, I'm wondering if it would be worth the effort in a mostly stock ej207?

My car is strictly a daily driver for now, though I would like to try NASA at some point, so I'd like to build it to handle those conditions ( I realize those two conditions couldn't be more different.)

I worry about heat causing.premature wear or other longevity issues. It really takes a toll when you're sitting in stop and go traffic, IC heatsoaks almost immediately. I've added a sprayer this year so I hope that helps.

Clark, are you running an oil cooler on any of your cars?
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:32 PM   #2765
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dig up some old threads by ebeck, he's an old friend of Clark and I, that had a v8 ej207. He was very meticulous about oil temps and had an aftermarket oil cooler on it.
IMO, you would only need it during those extreme summer days or if you're planning to road race. My big APS tmic took a big heat soak in stop and go but was no match for the AZ summers. I felt a noticable difference with the fmic during the hot days at the expense of throttle response.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:46 PM   #2766
azscooby
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Yeah that's the only reason I would go front mount.
I'm hoping the sprayer will help some.
I usually take it pretty easy in the hottest days, I don't get on it unless I have too, you can feel the lack of power.
I'll do some research on the oil cooler.
Thanks
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:18 PM   #2767
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You can run the spec c oil radiator setup. I running mine and am happy with it.
I'm monitoring temperature and pressure for oil. Hot idle pressure went up when I completed the setup, probably because the temp went down a bit.
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:47 PM   #2768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
You can run the spec c oil radiator setup. I running mine and am happy with it.
I'm monitoring temperature and pressure for oil. Hot idle pressure went up when I completed the setup, probably because the temp went down a bit.
Do you know what the dimensions of the Spec C Oil Cooler Core? Perhaps even a rough estimation of it's dimensions.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:36 PM   #2769
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Does a ver 9 EJ207 use top feed or side feed injectors? Pretty sure they're top, but I'd like to know before getting the wrong ones.
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:01 PM   #2770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark342
Does a ver 9 EJ207 use top feed or side feed injectors? Pretty sure they're top, but I'd like to know before getting the wrong ones.
Top feed
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:09 PM   #2771
WhiteBgeye02
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hey azscooby, i got a cheap fmic kit ill sell ya. i got it in trade but wont ever use it so im gunna drop it to someone cheap.

all is good with my engine minus a damn leak somewere and i cant find it in the dark. will look in morn. its also loud as hell since its only a dp right now. decided to buy an stainless elbow and weld it up
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:51 PM   #2772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayen View Post
Do you know what the dimensions of the Spec C Oil Cooler Core? Perhaps even a rough estimation of it's dimensions.


There's a CXracing equivalent that you could run.
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:38 PM   #2773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad

There's a CXracing equivalent that you could run.
Yeah I believe I found it on CXracings site. It uses AN fittings instead, so I will just have to use an AN to Barb Adapter fitting. To have it work with the rest of my Spec C oil cool hardware thats already there.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:19 AM   #2774
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Get thisone:

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=RDOC

It comes with 4 mounting tabx for auxiliary cooling fan.
Turn it around, so that the tabs face the engine.
Use the bottom two tabs to mount it to the bottom radiator support. they will match to pre-existing holes there.

The way i used those is:
The holes are large diameter, to where you could slide in the screw head, then you slot the head of the screw to the side of the hole until it becomes captive.
I put some rubber pieces under the rad.
As you tighten the nut, it fastens against the rubber pieces the rad sits on.

Then for the top of the rad, you use the top mounting tabs with a piece of aluminum flashing from home depot, and you mount it to the top radiator support. There I also used a rubber washer under a regular washer. I made the rubber washer out of a piece of rubber.

Now this rad is securely mounted and vibration dampened.

It fits like it was meant to be there, because the provision was always there.

This rad has NPT threads for the oil fittings.

You buy brass NPT 1/2" to I think 3/8" barb , 90 degree angle fittings from Grainger.

These extend to the exact length that the original ones did. I've measured this combo with the original rad and they're basically identical.




Then, you should go to japanparts.com, to look at all the components of this system, to see what else you need. There are 4 hoses and one conduit riser. I had the conduit riser, but that's not a fortune, it's like $50 and currently they have 10% off on OEM.

You have to get new hoses, because the danger is there, even if you have a small crack in your existing ones. Also watch for a TSB in which they give you double clamps for all those hoses. Also, position the clamps per the marks on the hose and group them with the spring clamp outwards and the worm clamp inwards. Tighten the worm clamp to where it cannot go past the hose barb on the conduit riser, for safety.

Last edited by Vlad; 03-04-2012 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:49 AM   #2775
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Awesome! Definitely marking your post Vlad.
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