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Old 07-19-2012, 03:54 PM   #3751
Computersare8ad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrxr250rider
And for the v7 I believe both regular v7 and v7 spec c are forged. But the spec c had better heads and vf34. Is this correct?
V7 spec c has same heads but better cams. (Same from v8)

All the info is in this thread... granted the thread is large.
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:57 PM   #3752
todeswalzer
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Around post 900 is a great link to a spreadsheet showing part numbers for various jdm engines v7-v9



Edit:


Quote:
Originally Posted by OppositeLock

Try the link below. There are some P/N's missing, but everything appears to be the same in the longblocks. I know that is the case with V8's due to the research I did before buying mine.

Hope this helps:
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:zBKpKVifJGIJachome1.pacific.net.s g/~goody/Files/Engine_Code_Model.xls+ej207dw7cj&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd= 3&gl=jo
Found it
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:05 PM   #3753
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Todeswaler,
To answer your question about that vendor, I personally haven't used that one in particular, but I honestly believe its a crap shoot at best with these guys.
Make sure you ask for lots of pictures and make sure they are attentive.
I had bad luck with one of the most popular vendors on the boards,.piece of ***** engine and sent it back, at my cost.
I then went with another vendor and they bent over backwards to get me everything I wanted, I couldn't have been happier with it.
I went with a third vendor for my JDM STI V9 seats and they were in MINT condition, best purchase I've ever made.
Do your homework, get lots of pictures, (mine even sent me a compression test video) and make sure they have great customer service before the sale, hopefully its indicative of their service AFTER the sale, should you have any problems.

Most people have little problems with their purchase, mine was in the minority, you'll do fine as long as you are cautious. There are some bad ones out there.

Good luck!
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:11 PM   #3754
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Originally Posted by NwGc8 View Post
Damn so sounds like mobile 1 not the best anymore. That rottela can you find that at autozone? The filter is any filter from ej205/wrx sorry for all the questions just making sure I'm up to par on this stuff and don't want to blow it
Mobil 1 is fine, BUT you just have to get the right kind of Mobil 1. There's at least 15 different kinds of Mobil 1 and at least 3 different 10W30 Mobil 1s.

10w30 high mileage is your most direct alternative to Rotella, this is what I get when Rotella is out of stock at Wal-Mart (which is fairly often)
0w40 Mobil1 is very good
10w40 high mileage is good, but not as broad a range as the 0W40.

The normal 5W30 / 10W30 oils by almost every manufacturer (including Mobil 1) are skewed towards US fuel economy standards rather than stability and shear resistance. They'll ALL shear down to lower viscosity in a Suby turbo car. This is true of just about ANY brand normal synthetic oil in those grades.

The M1 high mileage formulations are more resistant to shearing and better for our appication, as are the higher quality base-stock synthetics like the 0W40 Mobil 1. Rotella syn 5w40 is usually cheaper than the 10W30 high mileage, but sometimes Wal-Mart is out of Rotella and I'll use the 10W30 HM as a substitute.

Oil is important in all of the high performance Subaru engines. bearings in a boxer engines are just plain narrow, you need to pay attention to your oil and you need to let your oil warm up before beating on the car. Oil takes longer to warm up than your coolant, so if you don't have an oil pressure or temp gauge, wait a few minutes after the coolant gauge stops moving before WOT.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:11 PM   #3755
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Yeah i read about that, I'm actually in the middle of that fiasco right now (just passed post 2500). Seems to me the company changed hands right as you bought your engine and that probably had the most to do with it. A new person in charge can mean new values as a company and that guy obviously just wanted to unload a crap condition engine without worrying about the repercussions of how you the customer would react and post about it.

And yeah with things like this I look for good customer service, past history (and realize nobody is perfect - the crap you got looks like a discrepancy not a trend) and overall knowledge of the product in question. I've ended up pretty happy. Especially with my 6 speed swap - the guy I got it from was more than helpful. I saw the first vendor you ordered from havnt seen the 2nd yet.


So yeah as I delve deeper into this thread - and more importantly towards recent posts - I'm getting a much broader idea of what to do. I assume theres going to be an issue when I do the swap no matter how much research I do. I read 100 threads over 6 months to find every detail about doing my at --> mt swap and I still had 2 separate issues that had not been touched upon in any thread.

Last edited by todeswalzer; 07-20-2012 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:18 PM   #3756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Todeswaler,
To answer your question about that vendor, I personally haven't used that one in particular, but I honestly believe its a crap shoot at best with these guys.
Make sure you ask for lots of pictures and make sure they are attentive.
I had bad luck with one of the most popular vendors on the boards,.piece of ***** engine and sent it back, at my cost.
I then went with another vendor and they bent over backwards to get me everything I wanted, I couldn't have been happier with it.
I went with a third vendor for my JDM STI V9 seats and they were in MINT condition, best purchase I've ever made.
Do your homework, get lots of pictures, (mine even sent me a compression test video) and make sure they have great customer service before the sale, hopefully its indicative of their service AFTER the sale, should you have any problems.

Most people have little problems with their purchase, mine was in the minority, you'll do fine as long as you are cautious. There are some bad ones out there.

Good luck!
Care to share who those vendors were? Please send a PM if you do not wish to post.

tia
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:25 PM   #3757
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As I still have 1200 posts to read this might be covered but in the 2500 I have read I havnt seen this:

Has anyone mated up a usdm reverse polarity nps 6 speed (05+?) With a v9 ecu and actually dealt with the immobilizer?

I know the v9 spec c has no immobilizer but its gunna be hard to find that and my engine is blown NOW so I'm kinda not afforded the time to wait and get exactly what I need.

I don't want to mess with the nps if I don't have to and it seems v9 is the only reverse nps. If I have to I can switch my nps around with a different sensor easy enough but I wouldn't mind having a matching key/ecu/ignition and doing it that way.



-Does anyone have the actual part numbers for the dual bearing pulleys and the best water pump for when I change the timing belt?

does the killer b windage tray drop right in the ej207 oil pan? I'm going to be doing the pickup might as well do the tray too as I auto x and would rather not starve my bearings



That's it for now

Thanks

Edit:
that's not it. I saw a few posts about avcs screens? And removing them? What engines were these on and do you need to tear the block down/take the cams out or just take off the valve covers to remove them?


Also something about the avcs Turbo feed line? I'm most likely running my evoiii 16g unless I can afford to throw a 30r kit on it once I tackle having a working long block.. what do I need to do with this line for either setup? Replace the lines? Does anyone have a write up of this?


Vlad puts so much information into this thread but most of it leaves me slightly confused as these is nobody else chiming in on these situations

Last edited by todeswalzer; 07-20-2012 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:43 PM   #3758
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might as well share who the vendor was so we all know to be cautious. we are in this together on this forum for the most part and might as well stay together with a 3k dollar plus purchase.
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:31 AM   #3759
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I'm using the FP braided high flow oil feed line, that picks up at the AVCS valve, with my EVO III twinscroll. Works nice for me.
If you got something that confuses you, ask or pm me and I'll try to explain it.
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Old 07-21-2012, 11:41 AM   #3760
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I would too like to know which vendors to avoid and which to go to when it comes to jdm engines.
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Old 07-21-2012, 11:46 AM   #3761
todeswalzer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
I'm using the FP braided high flow oil feed line, that picks up at the AVCS valve, with my EVO III twinscroll. Works nice for me.
If you got something that confuses you, ask or pm me and I'll try to explain it.
OK well that's simple enough. Is it the same as an aftermarket usdm sti oil feed line?
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:13 PM   #3762
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FP makes this to provide sufficient oil for TD05 turbine bearings.
If you look at their site, they found a restrictor built into the hard line and their way to bypass it is to refeed the turbo by picking up oil from on top of the right side solenoid.
It will be much easier for you to see why this works well if you take a look at their tech article on their site.
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:24 PM   #3763
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Hey guys, I really don't want to badmouth any vendors - I was told that I got with the "new guy" who was a little more difficult to deal with. Others have raving reviews from this vendor.
I can give specifics, please PM - don't want to derail the thread.
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:31 PM   #3764
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I found this today when I was trying to figure out how to wire in some various parts from a V7 (JDM HID headlights, 05 STI Gauge cluster, and leveler switch and just general wiring and other info.) It really is something anyone with a V7 or even V8 and V9 swaps should have, especially guys with complete front clips. I am using it to get all my lights on my STI cluster working - so far so good!

It's an addendum to the factory Impreza manual that shows you all the uniquely STI functions that the factory manual doesnt (at least the one I have.)

It's for the2.0 STI (I think both JDM and EDM since it mentions both RHD and LHD options.) And it's in English - yipee!

I haven't seen it posted in this thread so hopefully not a dupe!

http://bebeu.free.fr/43R-STi_Eng.pdf

Let me know if you have any problems with it, it's rather large, like 17MB, but works like a charm!

Hope it helps you guys out!
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:06 AM   #3765
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well damn. after like 5 days of reading this thread im finally all the way through it.


as was said -- this thread desperately needs a FAQ section...



now that im at least somewhat informed i have a gameplan.

source a v9 motor and have it shipped with a v8 ecu (unless that guy is still selling his spec c ecu hmmmmm itd save me from changing the nps)....that way i have no immobilizer and i can know i have a fresher/newer motor -- at least age wise -- as every v7/8/9 for sale seems to have exactly 34k miles on em lol.

then
-hope that on arrival it isnt broken/looks to be high milage/fake engine serial sticker
-replace oil pickup with killer b
-add killer b windage tray
-replace plugs with NGK BKR7EIX. or Denso IK22 (i had densos in my 205 prolly gunna go with them. theyre both .032 pregapped right so its not like it matters)
-regap to .026? people keep mentioning this but ive always thought that it was a no no to regap iridum plugs
-replace water pump/timing belt/idlers (order same kit as usdm 04 sti)
-add a timing belt guide (cosworth is cheap i guess?)
-check avcs hard line bolts for screens (round = screen flat = no screen)
-replace turbo/avcs oil feed line (will my blouch braided wrx line work? i assume no)
-replace oil cooler??
-wire avcs
-make nps same polarity either mechanically or through rom



the only thing i really need to figure out is what im going to do for tuning...as i have to unmarry and sell my AccessPort. Not sure what to replace it with. Maybe i should call my tuner. CLARK??


i should have the cash to actually make a purchase next pay day. wish me luck

Last edited by todeswalzer; 07-22-2012 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:16 AM   #3766
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Sounds like you've got enough know how from threads to get a good setup. Can always ask for pictures before you buy and some companies offer compression tests.

I would stongly suggest having a picture sent without the front timing covers to make sure the cam gears havn't been cracked in shipping to them and the timing belt didnt snap for whatever reason they have that engine.

The hardest part is research and figuring out what works with what on the 207 other then that its totally worth the time being put in. Your going to love the motor.
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:03 AM   #3767
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double post
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:06 AM   #3768
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yessir i will def be asking for the pics of the timing area. that was i can also get a good geusstimate of milage by seeing the timing belt instead of just going by the shiny simple green'd intake manifold and alternator cover

right now it looks like im going to stick with my current e3 16g setup just to get the car up and running in a quick manner. recoup some cash spent by selling the twinscroll setup and probably my current pnp intake/tgv deletes. i think im gunna use the jdm intake mani....and sell my ap...


and save that cash until spring when killer b releases its low mount kit.....then ill be going low mount 30r.


this car is going to be an absolute blast to autox with an 8000 rpm rev limit and my new tarmac 2s......i cant wait to pull out of a low speed corner with the help of avcs instead of the slobaru 205 yawning its way back up to 3k rpms
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:40 AM   #3769
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I still have my V9 Spec-C ECU for sale...
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:14 AM   #3770
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so on that killer b kit you got a good picture of were the turb actually mounts? i found a bunch of youtube video's but nothing real good. either way looks expensive as ****.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:21 AM   #3771
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For anyone who swapped their 207 into a GC, did you have to have the car retuned for the weight difference? I'm just about finished with mine and on the shake down runs I take it on the car seems down on power, like it's not boosting right. I'll have a boost gauge in a few days to confirm but in the mean time I'm curious if the weight difference will keep the ECU from hitting the proper load cells?
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:45 AM   #3772
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you need to tune it for american gas since its lower octane than what they tuned it for. get a tune asap unless you want problems to occur. no weight has nothing to do with it.
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:12 PM   #3773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
you need to tune it for american gas since its lower octane than what they tuned it for. get a tune asap unless you want problems to occur. no weight has nothing to do with it.
Perhaps I should have prefaced my post with "A retune for the gas goes without saying". I still have some loose ends to tie up before it goes for a tune. Thanks for the answer on the weight.

Last edited by RealDealTarheel; 07-22-2012 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:19 PM   #3774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RealDealTarheel

Perhaps I should have prefaced my post with "A retune for the gas goes without saying". I still have some loose ends to tie up before it goes for a tune.
.... If your running it hard with the factory tune from Japan, so far everyone says its not a good idea... especially to be in boost unless you have the right gas in the tank

Last edited by Gam30vR; 07-22-2012 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:52 PM   #3775
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The radiator fan switching modes in ROmraider are defined wrong, I am almost sure.
it reads:
0= both fans off, correct
1= Fan1 off Fan 2 on Should read Fan 1 low speed Fan 2 off
2= Fan 1 on Fan 2 off Should read Fan 1 low speed Fan 2 low speed
3= Fan 1 on Fan 2 on Should read Fan 1 high speed Fan 2 high speed
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