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Old 07-31-2012, 11:29 AM   #3826
02CWRX
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I am at work so I don't have all the documentation with me, but I don't think you're too far off - especially since the JDM cars don't appear to have the other equipment from the factory. I guess what I was getting at was some people had complained because their drain valve or filter stopped working/became plugged, etc and they could no longer fill their gas tanks. I'm curious how if this is true I haven't had (and none of us have had) a problem with that if the JDM ECU doesn't do anything with this drain valve.

I haven't had any issues with anything, and mine has been running the JDM ECU since it was installed, never switched back for any reasons. I guess having a description of operation of the total system would be nice so I can see what does what.

~T.J.

EDIT: Documentation I just found implies the drain valve (AKA Vent Control Solenoid Valve) is normally open and is driven closed by an ECU signal; same goes for the pressure control solenoid valve. The vent valve on the tank, is mechanical in nature I believe. This basically means the car defaults to all the electrical valves being open without ECU interaction. My only problem with this is that it means the car would be off gassing quite a bit of emissions from the tank on a hot day for instance, which I think is a no no, so I have a hard time believing this is correct for stock. However, if that IS correct, it would explain how it can all still work without excess tank pressure. If those valves default open, the excess pressure should be pulled to the intake by the purge valve as mentioned.

This was found in another thread on Nasioc, listed as being for a 2000 RS. I can only assume operation would be similar.







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Last edited by 02CWRX; 07-31-2012 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:37 PM   #3827
i2cou4u2
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Just a quick question... I have an EJ207 Ver. 8 motor and it has a slight knock/tap when the engine is started and it is cold. The sounds raises proportionally to engine rpms to about 2000, then i cannot hear it anymore. Once it gets the coolant and oil hot, the sound goes away all together. Could a rod/crank knock disappear when everything is hot?

Thanks

Tom
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:54 PM   #3828
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I have the same thing on my ej205. It definately concerns me. It is much worse in the cold winter months. It sounds more like a valve issue so I called the local Subaru dealership to enquire. From the response I got i will assume () that they don't adjust valves. They quoted me some ungodly price so I searched the forum here. Not saying this is what you are hearing, but many report that their cars sound like boxes of rocks at start up, especially when cold. I would still like to have my valves adjusted though. The set up in these subies is very similar to a DOHC motorcycle engine.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:25 PM   #3829
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A little noise is not uncommon, between the injectors clicking and valvetrain noise it can be a cacophonas symphony.

A little noise....ok, more than that and you might want to do a compression and leakdown to rule out any major issues.

Has it always been like that?
Have you tried different weights of oil? A heavier (or correct) oil can go a long way in quieting engine noise, though it ain't fix anything if something is amiss.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:44 PM   #3830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby
A little noise is not uncommon, between the injectors clicking and valvetrain noise it can be a cacophonas symphony.

A little noise....ok, more than that and you might want to do a compression and leakdown to rule out any major issues.

Has it always been like that?
Have you tried different weights of oil? A heavier (or correct) oil can go a long way in quieting engine noise, though it ain't fix anything if something is amiss.
I am running Castrol synthetic 5w-40 oil with a K&N oil filter. It has not always been there that I noticed, but what's weird is that it all goes away when hot.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:48 PM   #3831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal_look_zero
What *PISTON SLAP* is, is the tiniest (see .001" - .003") bit of freeplay as a result of engine wear. Coupled with the shortened piston skirts, it causes the piston to slightly rattle as the rod changed direction. Almost all engines with forged pistons have it due to thermal expansion needs
**This was referring to an ej22, but still useable info.**
The person who this quote is from, said they have 230k+ miles on an ej22 with piston slap.

As long is it doesn't get worse you'll be fine. Just take it real easy until the motor gets more warmed up.

If it makes you feel better my motor has piston slap too. That and the injector noises seem to be pretty common.

Last edited by ManualOverAuto; 08-06-2012 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:35 PM   #3832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i2cou4u2 View Post
Just a quick question... I have an EJ207 Ver. 8 motor and it has a slight knock/tap when the engine is started and it is cold. The sounds raises proportionally to engine rpms to about 2000, then i cannot hear it anymore. Once it gets the coolant and oil hot, the sound goes away all together. Could a rod/crank knock disappear when everything is hot?

Thanks

Tom
This is frequently valve tap.

It's common with most any Subaru engine that has significant miles on it, because generally a valve adjustment will be done by first pulling the engine due to the space restriction between the heads and the fenders. This makes valve adjustments pretty damn expensive. I think most charge ~8 book hours for pulling & replacing the engine before they even get to the valve adjustment parts & labor.

My engine has had this for a LONG time. Probably 80 thousand miles or so, but I don't really remember when I first noticed it making that noise on warm-up. The engine has 180k total miles, so it's generally not something that will kill the engine, just another thing to remind you not to beat on the engine until everything is fully up to temp.

Most just live with the valve tap, as the price for a valve adjustment is a tough pill to swallow.
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:31 PM   #3833
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So I have a question. How would you make the EJ207 swap legal in California?

I see it needs to be a newer model and same type of engine?
How do you get them to pass with the obdII and sniffer?
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:49 PM   #3834
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California sucks.....from what I've read its possible but will require quite a bit of work (fooling the inspectors.)

At a minimum you'd need to run your USDM ECU for the OBD II test, which means you'll need it tuned on that ECU, or at least it will have to run well enough on it to pass the sniffer.
That's what I plan on doing when mine are due. But I've heard of people in AZ passing on the jdm ECU. I'll run my usdm just to be safe.

FWIW my Innova OBD II scanner says "pass" on my jdm ECU, on the "OBD II readiness.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:15 PM   #3835
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So can I run perfectly fine on my usdm ecu after being tuned in OS? or is swapping ecu's from different markets bad?
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:30 PM   #3836
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It will depend on the tunes on each ECU.
If say you had a vf39 on your ej205 and you ran the vf37 on the ej207, the tunes would be close enough that you could swap in your usdm ECU and run it (for a short time) and you would be ok. It would not be advised to do wot pulls but it should run close enough that you could pass through emissions.

But it all depends on the tuned components on each ECU.

Mine are close enough that I can swap them and the usdm runs fine (no avcs obviously).
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:30 PM   #3837
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Stock ECU will run the EJ207, but will not use the AVCS. You want to run the JDM ECU so you can run the AVCS, as this adds significant off-boost torque and throttle response. However, you want your USDM ECU for the SMOG test. You just swap ECUs and go to the SMOG place. USDM stock mapping won't break anything, assuming you are easy on the gas.

You will need someone to re-flash a map to your USDM ECU that defeats the readiness monitors. Otherwise, when you hook up your USDM ECU, you'll need to drive around several hundred miles first. Anyone with a Tactrix should be able to download your ECU map and turn off the readiness monitors and flash it back. 10 minute job.

I still don't think that's technically "legal" in California, but it should pass SMOG assuming the rest of your setup is going to pass the pipe and visual test.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:00 PM   #3838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian
Stock ECU will run the EJ207, but will not use the AVCS. You want to run the JDM ECU so you can run the AVCS, as this adds significant off-boost torque and throttle response. However, you want your USDM ECU for the SMOG test. You just swap ECUs and go to the SMOG place. USDM stock mapping won't break anything, assuming you are easy on the gas.

You will need someone to re-flash a map to your USDM ECU that defeats the readiness monitors. Otherwise, when you hook up your USDM ECU, you'll need to drive around several hundred miles first. Anyone with a Tactrix should be able to download your ECU map and turn off the readiness monitors and flash it back. 10 minute job.

I still don't think that's technically "legal" in California, but it should pass SMOG assuming the rest of your setup is going to pass the pipe and visual test.
This is great info, im a little surprised that the usdm ecu will run the 207 no problem, is this all things considered??
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:53 PM   #3839
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Thanks Concillian.

I am now a step back from getting a jdm engine. Wastegate arm on the td04 was loose and I was not hitting my target 20 psi. And I'm doing a compression check tomorrow.

I just wanted to know if there was still hope for a jdm engine in California
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:51 PM   #3840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brew02wrx View Post
This is great info, im a little surprised that the usdm ecu will run the 207 no problem, is this all things considered??
Why surprised? There's very little difference between the actual engines that would affect tuning, big port heads will some, and the very small CR difference (EJ207 is like 0.2 lower CR) will some, but at the low loads 2500 RPM in neutral will put on the engine it's going to be a pretty small difference.

The fact that the ECU pinout is the same (aside from additional pins for AVCS on the JDM ECU) is one of the big reasons people do this swap in the first place.

Here's what Crawford / i-speed had to say about things when they were swapping these into older 2.5 RS cars and getting them past the ref as an 02+ WRX:

Quote:
In CA, the state referee checks out the car/swap for...02 sensors, emission equipment, Co and Nox, and they want to connect to the ECU.
What we did to the JDM/WRX conversions is this:
- combine the JDM and USDM harness (the jdm harness is without TGV wires and the USDM is without the AVCS wires, so the harness we use will have both)
- Keep as many things stock as possible.
- Keep the USDM ecu in the car for the state referee check so that the ref can see it with their scanner.

Some people ask about the AVCS.
Rather than switch the pin-out from the TGV to the avcs for the jdm ecu, we added more wires so that we can use the USDM AND jdm ecu. Of course when using the USDM ecu , we do not have avcs.

If all your wiring is correct and/or you have a re-flash on either the JDM or USDM ecu, then you should be able to run BOTH the US and JDM ecu's without any problem.
The ref inspects significantly more closely than SMOG does. SMOG does not check the TGVs, for example... At least they haven't said anything to me about them after inspecting my TGV-less car twice.

Last edited by Concillian; 08-07-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:37 AM   #3841
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My tune on my USDM ECU makes it very likely to stall, when I use it.
I have adressed the MAF, the fueling, tables, etc.
But if I let it learn the trims, it does OK. Of course, I don't ask any kind of performance from this ECU, drive out of boost, AVCS disconnected at the solenoids.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:51 AM   #3842
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dyno next week for me.

I'll post the numbers up !
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:30 PM   #3843
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Quick question for guys who are running the stock twinscroll headers and uppipe....

Is it better to leave the heat shielding on, or take it off and wrap them?
Which has better heat retention?

If it's better to wrap, should I wrap the flex section on the headers? I've seen some guys skip this area.

I'm finally taking the plunge and building a vf36 (almost) from my vf34 and a vf36 turbine housing that I found. Seems to be possible. Worst case scenario I use my vf37.

This should be the best of both worlds....roller bearing and twinscroll!! Hoping to have the quickest spooling 300hp DD.

Still waiting for EDO to get in some TS downpipes....anyone know who else sells these? I'd rather have a professionally built pipe than weld two together.

thanks.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:20 PM   #3844
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^^ yeah, it'd be really nice to get a Spec C with VF36. I've been drooling at the prospect of how it would be as a daily, on a well sorted setup. Here's a dyno comparison 'K1WRC' posted between his VF34'd EJ205 & VF36'd EJ207 (from page 143) that i've been obsessing over

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Old 08-08-2012, 06:19 PM   #3845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Still waiting for EDO to get in some TS downpipes....anyone know who else sells these? I'd rather have a professionally built pipe than weld two together.
Moore Performance at least has a prototype stock location TS DP out there. Perhaps give them a ring on when they'll be ready for prime-time.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:11 PM   #3846
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would you guys say that these numbers seem normal ? or should i be able to pull more outa the motor?

ej207 v7 with:
stock vf30
stock pinks pinjectors
walbro 255lph
fmic
3" turbo back exhaust
equal length headers w/ up-pipe
hks ssq b.o.v
dyno tuned to 306awhp / 292lb of torque

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Old 08-08-2012, 07:14 PM   #3847
azscooby
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I would be thrilled with those numbers, but more importantly are you happy with how it feels?

Numbers don't always tell you what's going on.

There is always room for more power, but it comes down to diminishing returns.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:31 PM   #3848
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Just noticed that dip after peak...what's that about?

Do you have a boost and AFR graph as well?
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:39 PM   #3849
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numbers seem good to me.

i put down 310whp/288tq on efi logics mustang dyno. 21psi

v7 vf30,intake,3in turbo back,pinks,255,turbo inlet,uel headers,sti tmic
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:54 PM   #3850
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i am satisfied with how it feels in its middle range rpm's but i need a ebcs to help spool.
it feels strong when its in its sweet range of rpm's and i ran a 1/4 mile in just under the 12.9 with a decent but could be better reaction time.

the dip concerns me as well but i find it common in thew print out graphs from this tuner, it does drive fine tho.

this tune is on 91 pump gas too btw
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