EJ207 Owners?

[subydude]

Originally Posted by Rasmusson14

The reason for E85 is simply this......there is tons of it available around me and why not run gas that is very similar to race gas for $1.85 a gallon? I'd love to go with a 3076 but fear that its too cost prohibitive at the moment. Additionally the reason for the 20g is that my heads are not the "big ports" like yours. I have plain vanilla JDM V7 heads which are small ports. The only V7 big ports were on the spec-c. My goal is a responsive circuit track car. I have Mid-Ohio about 1.5-2 hours away.

BTW - Love the reading up on your build and progress Trey. This thread and threads like this is the reason I went with the 207

Now if you're going to Mid-Ohio, you should let me know when I usually have fun chasing the Cayman S's and M3's around the track up there, but it'd be sweet to have another ej207 up there with me

Although you'd probably beat me in a straight line, I'm still rocking the vf30.

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[Xcelr8to1320]

My head is about to explode from trying to decide what mild power parts i want to do on the V7, as well as the whole budget issue. Cars are gunna be the death of me, or at least my finances.

~Alex

[seanathanq83]

yes thats what i saw, i think i will go that route, so i dont have to change the whole harness

[team_imprezzed]

Originally Posted by neko

well if i had to guess, the ej207 and all japanese wrx/sti/etc's are all spec'ed to run 101oct in japan. 101 is the std "performance car" gas grade over there. kinda like 91 is tops recommended over here.

(i know what i'm about to say is not new, but occasionally people need to be reminded...)

But! 101 over there isn't 101 over here. 101 RON (japanese method) is equivilant to our 94-95oct ((MON+RON)/2, US method). running good 93oct in your car isn't far off from the right gas. It's not like you're running total swill by downgrading 1-2 points. Worth re-tuning your car to run 93 with an ecu expecting 94...?

In fact at higher altitudes in the US stations stock 85 as regular instead of 87, since its been proven to work fine. I have ran 91oct chevron in all of my japanese motors(or ecu setups), and never had a problem at all. Just for reference to the thread, that includes my current v5 ej207. Plus, if you're not running on the ragged edge of a hard tune or something (just stock ecu for instance), then your ecu will react just fine if it detects knock (we have knock sensors), and make sure the motor runs ok.

Bottom line. Your motor will run fine on US gas. Now, tuning for more power? Thats always a different a story... Thats when things break, when you push them past stock reliability/power levels. Nothing new there.

can we get someone to co-sign this one please?

[Clark Turner]

Running a V7,V8 or V9 JDM sti engine with the stock file on US Gasoline is a recipe for disaster. In short, Dont do it.

Take it from someone that has been swapping and tuning these setups since 03. You need to retune the ecu properly.

Clark

[subydude]

Originally Posted by Clark Turner

Running a V7,V8 or V9 JDM sti engine with the stock file on US Gasoline is a recipe for disaster. In short, Dont do it.

Take it from someone that has been swapping and tuning these setups since 03. You need to retune the ecu properly.

Clark

I respectfully disagree. What Neko said is correct about grades of gas. The engines are tuned to run on US spec 94-95. For those of us with 93 or 94 available locally, I see no problems running on that for a while (I'm not saying go do track days or lots of WOT...it'd be fine for daily driving through). Just be aware that you need to watch for knock events. If you're in a state with 91 or 92 available I'd highly suggest a retune as you're going to have a much higher chance of detonation. The bigger question here is "if you already spent $3k-$5k on your engine, why not spend another couple hundred to make sure it runs correctly?".

For myself, when I first got the car running after the swap I kept it full of 94 and watched for knocks. Didn't see any, but I went to get it tuned 2 weeks later. Had it tuned for crap 93 and then keep it full of "good" 94 just to be safe.

C/N: Yes it will work, No I don't suggest doing it for long periods or during competition, Please don't cheap out and build the car right the first time

[Clark Turner]

THe Research octane vs motor octane claim does not hold any water. The formulation of fuel is different in its hydrocarbon content,makeup and specific gravity.

Clark

[team_imprezzed]

[quote=eastcoastbumps;25351914] "IAperformance used to sell a wiring kit."

still do. check out

http://www.iaperformance.com/product...oducts_id=2580

[Hyper]

Originally Posted by Clark Turner

Running a V7,V8 or V9 JDM sti engine with the stock file on US Gasoline is a recipe for disaster. In short, Dont do it.

Take it from someone that has been swapping and tuning these setups since 03. You need to retune the ecu properly.

Clark

In support of Clark's post, here is one of things that happens if you do

[popadel]

Originally Posted by Clark Turner

If you leave the DCCD unhooked, you will have a 65/35 split which is fine for the road, bad on the dyno. Clark

On the dynapack the rear hubs tend to work harder on the 65/35. On my rolling road dyno it makes no difference to heat management and the readings are fine. Even for 400WKW scoobs.

The software allows me to see NM and KW per axel so i know exactly what the dyno is doing..both under load (for tuning) and in inertia mode ( fot power runs).

I tested this on my shop STI at a dyno day once to prove to all that attend that switching the DCCD wont change your overall figures not the torque and power curve.

Adelin

[Clark Turner]

The trouble that you dont realize is that the system of electronic eddy current generators and balanced loading is, cause and effect.

You must run unbalanced before the system then alters load to the oposite axle to for balance. This back and forth balancing of the front and rear axles is hard on differentials.

On Dynos like the Dynojet where there is no mechanical or electronic balancing, It is murder to the DCCD differential.

Clark

[OppositeLock]

Originally Posted by wopdeeze

Im currently running a v8 EJ207 with a VF39 and when i flashed the computer with a v7 map (280ps) last time i was on the dyno i put down 275ps to the wheels. after that i flashed it to a S202 map(320ps) havent been back to the dyno yet but i can tell that there is more power after the flash. next is 16g td05.

Wondering if you were ever able to make it back to the dyno with the 39? Did you ever custom tune it, or just the 2 different factory tunes?

[Mecka20000]

Is the V7 EJ207 side feed or top feed injectors???please PM with the answer, thank you.

[Clark Turner]

They use Top feeds.

Clark

[team_imprezzed]

i just got my v8 207 and as i was going over it. I noticed some condensation in the intake hose...it was oil, then i stuck my finger in the throttle body and wiped my finger in there. it came out black. Im just wondering if this is okay because my hunch is its not. Can somebody tell me something?

[dug-e-fresh]

Originally Posted by team_imprezzed

i just got my v8 207 and as i was going over it. I noticed some condensation in the intake hose...it was oil, then i stuck my finger in the throttle body and wiped my finger in there. it came out black. Im just wondering if this is okay because my hunch is its not. Can somebody tell me something?

as long as it's not too excessive.... its normal. The PVC system allows the "normal" amount of blow-by to re-enter the TB and intake system leading to a certain amount of build up.

def

[dug-e-fresh]

Originally Posted by Mecka20000

Is the V7 EJ207 side feed or top feed injectors???please PM with the answer, thank you.

Stock is topfeeds... but if you have the proper components, you can run either. It's a relatively simple switch if you are so inclined.

def

[Clark Turner]

Agree.. The oil is normal.

Clark

[ImpulseWRX]

It looks like you guys have been at the turbo swap game on EJ207s for a while. What is your conclusion on the best all rounded turbo for an 8200 rpm soft limit that can still bring in 130-135 mph over the quarter mile and isn't a 50/50 on getting the lag right when on the street?

Additionally to this which cam duration works best with these turbos and EJ207 :ie 272,280,290

I am currently weighing up the GT3076 1.06 ex vs the GT3582R 0.82 for myself and of course the best turbo is the smallest turbo you need to get what you want to ensure good response.

I've just removed a Precision GT3561e journal with .58 due to it being a dog in 1st gear

My GF8 weighs 2860lb with driver

[treystoys]

Are your plans to run pump or race fuel. I run a 3076 .82 on mine and trap right in the 120mph range on 93 octane. My car is a full weight 05 wrx. I'd imagine with 4-500 less lbs, and race fuel, the tad larger 3076 would be the ticket for you. My 3076 is an absolute joy on the street, and becomes an animal with a pedal mash!

Trey

[treystoys]

Unsure about the cams, but I run the stock ver 8 cams with avcs enabled, and its a nice set up, never stops pulling and I too have the rev limit set to 8200.

Trey

[ImpulseWRX]

120-125 is perfect for daily street tune, 130-135 is the goal on C16 or E85

If the 3076 can push into the 130s it looks a bit more usable as the jump to the GT35R wheels is 8mm just on turbine

[Clark Turner]

If the car is street weight, You will need 550whp for the 130-135 traps. So the 30R will likely not get you there. Mine never did. Most 30Rs are going to be in the 120 to 125 range TOPS.

You will need the 35R .82. Dont use the 1.06 housing on the 2.0 engine.
The best turbo for this motor in my opinion is the 3076 with .82 and 4 inch port shroud cover.

I think you need to be realistic. Its a 2.0 engine. Even with the 30R you are not going to have any significant power below 4500 rpm.

Clark

[seanathanq83]

i have started building my v8 207, and i have been looking at pistons, and thinking about 9:1 or just a hair higher, only really looking for 375whp, something that is responsive, but still have good power and reliability, i have been looking, and see alot of yall going with gt30r, and being happy and saying you really like it, but what kinda of response does it have? i will be trying to go with twinscrool if possible. (running a vf37-20g on my 205 right now)

[ImpulseWRX]

Thanks Clark, personally is it worth getting the gt3076 and trying my heart out to grab 10.99 or just get the gt35r straight away?

I have a feeling my car will be a slight bit laggier than most cars due to my manifold
http://i41.tinypic.com/97kvp4.jpg