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Old 09-12-2012, 07:43 PM   #4101
Torquey
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JDM v8 EJ207 WRB

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Originally Posted by PHruska View Post
perfect. thanks for the quick response. ill order most of that tonight. is there anything else im missing? are you doing v7 or v8?
I'm doing a v8 swap into my bugeye. Did you get the AVCS harness already? You may also want to pick up a better than stock timing belt guide, like Cosworth or Tomei... apparently to help ensure the belt won't "jump". I got the Tomei one as the price was reasonable. Here's a link to what it is:

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Timing-Belt-Components
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:23 PM   #4102
WhiteBgeye02
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just so ppl do it right i take a piece of paper. fold it in half and put it between the timing belt guides and the belt. push the guide down and tighten the allens. pull the paper out and you have a close tolerance guide that wont let the belt jump. its pretty simple setup and doesnt really require a special aluminum guide. he is getting his harness from me. waiting on pins in the mail
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:28 PM   #4103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquey

I'm doing a v8 swap into my bugeye. Did you get the AVCS harness already? You may also want to pick up a better than stock timing belt guide, like Cosworth or Tomei... apparently to help ensure the belt won't "jump". I got the Tomei one as the price was reasonable. Here's a link to what it is:

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Timing-Belt-Components
I'm doing the v8 as well. Ordering a tomei guide. What are you doing for a downpipe?
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:40 PM   #4104
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Ha! I ordered the Tomei guide from RSD today as well.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:49 AM   #4105
tylerbryant
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I'm just getting my motor in for my 207 swap I'm going from a 02 Wrx to a 02 Sti is there any parts that I still need to buy it comes with the avcs engine harness. Am I able to just plug it into the dash harness and it will work?
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:38 PM   #4106
Torquey
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I see a few of you are about start the swaps. I had a hell of a time trying to separate the engine from the transmission. This is after ALL the bellhousing bolts were undone and clutch fork out. There was virtually no gap in between them to be able to put a pry bar or screw driver or even a putty knife. We tried everything from hammering with 2x4 to hours of jacking up, pulling tugging. Eventually we called it a night and came back the next day. Thankfully my friend did some "research" into the matter and came accross this youtube video:


... yes that's right, we took a freaking meat-cleaver to the car and got it to split with just 4-5 taps of the hammer!! How we wished, we watched this video the day before Once the split was made, it still was couple of hours of prying and pulling... but it's so much easier from that point on
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:43 PM   #4107
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Originally Posted by tylerbryant View Post
I'm just getting my motor in for my 207 swap I'm going from a 02 Wrx to a 02 Sti is there any parts that I still need to buy it comes with the avcs engine harness. Am I able to just plug it into the dash harness and it will work?
the JDM harness will not run avcs unless you do an entire harness swap. you need to use something like the IA performance or the one a member on here sells (what im buying). The pins on the USDM subaru are set to run your tgv i believe and the ej207 does not have these. you end up using those pins to run avcs im pretty sure.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:48 PM   #4108
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If anyone has a USDM twin scroll DP they dont need PLEASE let me know. im running outta money on this build and cant afford a $500 downpipe haha
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:52 PM   #4109
WhiteBgeye02
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well if borg warner would come out with there new efr7168 i would sell you mine but its a month out still.
i make the harness's tylerbryant.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:56 PM   #4110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquey View Post
I see a few of you are about start the swaps. I had a hell of a time trying to separate the engine from the transmission. This is after ALL the bellhousing bolts were undone and clutch fork out. There was virtually no gap in between them to be able to put a pry bar or screw driver or even a putty knife. We tried everything from hammering with 2x4 to hours of jacking up, pulling tugging. Eventually we called it a night and came back the next day. Thankfully my friend did some "research" into the matter and came accross this youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hGanKrxYxA

... yes that's right, we took a freaking meat-cleaver to the car and got it to split with just 4-5 taps of the hammer!! How we wished, we watched this video the day before Once the split was made, it still was couple of hours of prying and pulling... but it's so much easier from that point on
What I learned on my 205 for splitting I applied to my 207 when it showed up. FOr comparison, it took me 4 hours to get the 205 to split and about 30 minutes to split the 207. So here's what I did:

Use the meat cleaver method above to open the initial gap. Then take a long thin pry bar and a mini sledge and tap it straight down into the sides of the mating surface. Aim toward the alignment dowels as you're tapping down. Alternate sides and once you've gotten the end of the pry bar down to that dowel start prying, now you're using the entire upper part of the case as leverage to separate it. It will come apart VERY quickly this way.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:20 PM   #4111
iNfEk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquey
I see a few of you are about start the swaps. I had a hell of a time trying to separate the engine from the transmission. This is after ALL the bellhousing bolts were undone and clutch fork out. There was virtually no gap in between them to be able to put a pry bar or screw driver or even a putty knife. We tried everything from hammering with 2x4 to hours of jacking up, pulling tugging. Eventually we called it a night and came back the next day. Thankfully my friend did some "research" into the matter and came accross this youtube video:

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hGanKrxYxA

... yes that's right, we took a freaking meat-cleaver to the car and got it to split with just 4-5 taps of the hammer!! How we wished, we watched this video the day before Once the split was made, it still was couple of hours of prying and pulling... but it's so much easier from that point on
I have never had to do the "meat clever" thing at all.

Honestly the first time I've seen something like this.

I believe the trouble maybe the throw out bearing and fork. There is a service port on the transmission. Drivers side (10mm allen I believe). Remove that. There will be a threaded hole. Get a bolt I believe it's 8x1.25 and thread it in so it's on a few threads... Next pull the bolt out and the shaft holding the fork will come out.

The transmission and engine should separate as long as you have remove all bolts. Chiseling and prying can only lead to damage.

If the car is on jack stands go under the car at the tail shaft (drive shaft should be out) and give the transmission a sharp up and down motion and side to side. This will loosen it but the majority of the hold up is as mention.

Meat clever. LOL. Yes I realize years of use...blah blah blah can cause the transmission an engine to kind of seal together but why risk further damage and getting hurt no less by doing this. Just saying.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:25 PM   #4112
Torquey
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JDM v8 EJ207 WRB

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHruska View Post
If anyone has a USDM twin scroll DP they dont need PLEASE let me know. im running outta money on this build and cant afford a $500 downpipe haha
Got sorta lucky as this came with my motor, just waiting to be fitted and extended to mate with my Autospeed catback...



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Old 09-13-2012, 01:27 PM   #4113
tylerbryant
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Is anyone clear on this the deletes or avcs pins?
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:11 PM   #4114
561wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquey
I see a few of you are about start the swaps. I had a hell of a time trying to separate the engine from the transmission. This is after ALL the bellhousing bolts were undone and clutch fork out. There was virtually no gap in between them to be able to put a pry bar or screw driver or even a putty knife. We tried everything from hammering with 2x4 to hours of jacking up, pulling tugging. Eventually we called it a night and came back the next day. Thankfully my friend did some "research" into the matter and came accross this youtube video:

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hGanKrxYxA

... yes that's right, we took a freaking meat-cleaver to the car and got it to split with just 4-5 taps of the hammer!! How we wished, we watched this video the day before Once the split was made, it still was couple of hours of prying and pulling... but it's so much easier from that point on
Why do all that you just have to take out the pin that holds the shift fork in the throw bearing, and it should fall right apart it should be good to go.
Lol that's to much work. Lol brings back memories.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:23 PM   #4115
iNfEk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 561wrx

Why do all that you just have to take out the pin that holds the shift fork in the throw bearing, and it should fall right apart it should be good to go.
Lol that's to much work. Lol brings back memories.
That's what I said earlier.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:26 PM   #4116
561wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk

That's what I said earlier.
Lol im on the app. Didnt see ur post.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:27 PM   #4117
iNfEk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 561wrx

Lol im on the app. Didnt see ur post.
I know. Just saying me too. Love the nasioc app
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:28 PM   #4118
biodude
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerbryant View Post
Is anyone clear on this the deletes or avcs pins?

you will still need to add some wiring between the JDM engine harness that you are getting with your swap and the ECU connectors.



so its either

http://www.iaperformance.com/product...oducts_id=2580

or

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
ha looks great in the pic! should work out great for you! incase anyone else needs one i got supplies for atleast two more harness's. its the grey wire setup in the middle of the picture! pm me for details



ia's kit is well made and has clear instructions. I cant speak for Whites kit, but based on an earlier pic, looks like it will also work just fine.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:05 PM   #4119
navydub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
I have never had to do the "meat clever" thing at all.

Honestly the first time I've seen something like this.

I believe the trouble maybe the throw out bearing and fork. There is a service port on the transmission. Drivers side (10mm allen I believe). Remove that. There will be a threaded hole. Get a bolt I believe it's 8x1.25 and thread it in so it's on a few threads... Next pull the bolt out and the shaft holding the fork will come out.

The transmission and engine should separate as long as you have remove all bolts. Chiseling and prying can only lead to damage.

If the car is on jack stands go under the car at the tail shaft (drive shaft should be out) and give the transmission a sharp up and down motion and side to side. This will loosen it but the majority of the hold up is as mention.

Meat clever. LOL. Yes I realize years of use...blah blah blah can cause the transmission an engine to kind of seal together but why risk further damage and getting hurt no less by doing this. Just saying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 561wrx View Post
Why do all that you just have to take out the pin that holds the shift fork in the throw bearing, and it should fall right apart it should be good to go.
Lol that's to much work. Lol brings back memories.
Alot of this is dependent on where you live, if they use salt on the roads, the age of the vehicle, if the motor/trans has ever been split before, and how it was reassembled(greased alignment dowels and mating surface?)

When I did mine('05 wagon) the block and trans had never been split, and it's a salt belt car. Say what you want, but I had every bolt out, and the clutch fork was disengaged. Even after all that it took me a solid 3-4 hours of hammering, heating, prying, lifting, lowering, shimmying and shaking to get the two to separate. Trust me when I say I did everything right and they certainly did not just "fall apart".
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:08 PM   #4120
Torquey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydub View Post
Alot of this is dependent on where you live, if they use salt on the roads, the age of the vehicle, if the motor/trans has ever been split before, and how it was reassembled(greased alignment dowels and mating surface?)

When I did mine('05 wagon) the block and trans had never been split, and it's a salt belt car. Say what you want, but I had every bolt out, and the clutch fork was disengaged. Even after all that it took me a solid 3-4 hours of hammering, heating, prying, lifting, lowering, shimmying and shaking to get the two to separate. Trust me when I say I did everything right and they certainly did not just "fall apart".
Exactly ... and mine has always been a hot weather car (not Hawaii perfect like Infek)! I wish it just "fell apart" like that... should've been done by now . Removing the pin was the first thing we did... and then the bolts. We had the hoist on the motor and jack on the tranny... didn't make any difference. Meat cleaver doesn't damage anything... but gets the two to split for damn sure. It's the one that never gets used from the knife set... so why not put it to some automotive action... just don't tell the wife about it

Anyway, back on topic... pulled these out of the car today. Never knew there were STi specific plugs, quite literally...


Last edited by Torquey; 09-13-2012 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:17 PM   #4121
WhiteBgeye02
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sweet jdm plugs yo!
what i did when i couldnt get it apart was drill two 3/8 inch holes in the trans next to the mating surface on the top. put a screw driver in each and they opened up a bit so i got the pry bar in there.
from the dozen or so times i have put subaru trans in and out prying the front of the engine up like 4 inches so the rear tilts down helps get it down and up easier.
my kit comes with printed out instructions. takes 30 min to install
just so i can keep reference. who have i sold kits to on this thread?
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:36 PM   #4122
iNfEk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquey

Exactly ... and mine has always been a hot weather car (not Hawaii perfect like Infek)! I wish it just "fell apart" like that... should've been done by now . Removing the pin was the first thing we did... and then the bolts. We had the hoist on the motor and jack on the tranny... didn't make any difference. Meat cleaver doesn't damage anything... but gets the two to split for damn sure. It's the one that never gets used from the knife set... so why not put it to some automotive action... just don't tell the wife about it

Anyway, back on topic... pulled these out of the car today. Never knew there were STi specific plugs, quite literally...
Send me one. Seriously.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:12 PM   #4123
561wrx
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Hi. I asked this question before about the hubs, but Im trying to understand if I use 5x100 stubs which are on the five speed I don't have to change hubs. But if I keep the stubs that on the six speed I would have to change the hubs? An what size are the stubs on the six speed, or the stubs the same size on the 5 and 6 speed.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:24 PM   #4124
i2cou4u2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 561wrx
Hi. I asked this question before about the hubs, but Im trying to understand if I use 5x100 stubs which are on the five speed I don't have to change hubs. But if I keep the stubs that on the six speed I would have to change the hubs? An what size are the stubs on the six speed, or the stubs the same size on the 5 and 6 speed.
Stubs are the same from 5 speed to 6 speed

Tom
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:57 PM   #4125
561wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydub

Alot of this is dependent on where you live, if they use salt on the roads, the age of the vehicle, if the motor/trans has ever been split before, and how it was reassembled(greased alignment dowels and mating surface?)

When I did mine('05 wagon) the block and trans had never been split, and it's a salt belt car. Say what you want, but I had every bolt out, and the clutch fork was disengaged. Even after all that it took me a solid 3-4 hours of hammering, heating, prying, lifting, lowering, shimmying and shaking to get the two to separate. Trust me when I say I did everything right and they certainly did not just "fall apart".
Did u keep the transmission bolted in place and did u let gravity do some of the work while using a prybar or did u have the transmission jacked up. An how many times did change your clutch, because that dust can be a factor too.
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