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Old 09-19-2012, 09:35 PM   #4201
Torquey
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JDM v8 EJ207 WRB

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^^ looks good man, I'm hoping mine will be done by tomorrow. How was the first start?

btw.. does anyone know what to do with the EGT connector on the passenger side strut tower (very bottom one). I had a sensor plugged into it, that was going into my old uppipe... but no spot for it on the ej207. Do i just use a resistor and/or disable it on the ECU ROM?
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:21 PM   #4202
JRsleeper
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Which ecu are you using? The jdm ver7-9 don't care about that sensor. Just leave it unplugged.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:28 PM   #4203
WhiteBgeye02
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either way you can delete the code in the rom
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:39 PM   #4204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K1WRC View Post
You shouldn't have to take any out of the wires going into the ECU connectors, just putting the extra ones in. Just make sure you pull the little locking mechanism up and they should pop on in, maybe use a needlenose plier and be careful and push them in till they click.
the ecu plugs have little plastic things on the top that pop up like a 1-2mm. its the lock. you just use a small flat head and get it to pop up. its got two small clips that hold it down but you can force it up basically and then push it down when your done. looking at the end of the plugs that go into the ecu...
for reference we will use the side with the pop up locking thing as the top.
-each pin will have an empty space below it. this is were you put the needle in.hold the plug in one hand and with the needle put it into the bottom hole below the pin you need to move and you will hit a small tab. pull the tab down. so away from the pin your removing then pull slightly on other plug. this should make it so the pin is pulled out far enough that the clip you just moved down wont lock back down. then go on the back side and pull the pin out. the pins only go in one direction. which is the small tabs on the pins face the top of the plug (pretty sure)
. the other plug is much easier but these have intercal clips of the same idea but smaller so you have to go by feel. the needle should not go in more than like 5mm or so.

just looking at a plug with the locking thing on the top the pins site in the very tiny slots and there corresponding unlocking slot were the needle goes is below each one. its about 3x size the hole of were the pin actually sits.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:16 PM   #4205
Torquey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
the ecu plugs have little plastic things on the top that pop up like a 1-2mm. its the lock. you just use a small flat head and get it to pop up. its got two small clips that hold it down but you can force it up basically and then push it down when your done. looking at the end of the plugs that go into the ecu...
for reference we will use the side with the pop up locking thing as the top.
-each pin will have an empty space below it. this is were you put the needle in.hold the plug in one hand and with the needle put it into the bottom hole below the pin you need to move and you will hit a small tab. pull the tab down. so away from the pin your removing then pull slightly on other plug. this should make it so the pin is pulled out far enough that the clip you just moved down wont lock back down. then go on the back side and pull the pin out. the pins only go in one direction. which is the small tabs on the pins face the top of the plug (pretty sure)
. the other plug is much easier but these have intercal clips of the same idea but smaller so you have to go by feel. the needle should not go in more than like 5mm or so.

just looking at a plug with the locking thing on the top the pins site in the very tiny slots and there corresponding unlocking slot were the needle goes is below each one. its about 3x size the hole of were the pin actually sits.
I literally just figured this out... lol, but thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I'm glad i can now use the plug 'n play feature! Here are couple of pictures for illustration (the "test" connector was off the cut JDM harness that came with my swap) :





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Old 09-20-2012, 12:34 AM   #4206
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I have not run my motor yet, my friend Jim who has done all the work had to do other stuff today, I think tomorrow we fire it up. My ecu is for a ver 8, using a RadioShack 2.2ohm resistor on the old up pipe sensor plug just to prevent any chance of triggering a light. My car needs the inspection sticker as it is about to expire. The swap is 98% completed, will be running by the weekend for sure. I'm in no rush, I have my Saabaru to drive.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:47 AM   #4207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman
I have not run my motor yet, my friend Jim who has done all the work had to do other stuff today, I think tomorrow we fire it up. My ecu is for a ver 8, using a RadioShack 2.2ohm resistor on the old up pipe sensor plug just to prevent any chance of triggering a light. My car needs the inspection sticker as it is about to expire. The swap is 98% completed, will be running by the weekend for sure. I'm in no rush, I have my Saabaru to drive.
The JDM ECU and engines don't have that sensor btw so not necessary.
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:12 PM   #4208
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So with my engine that came today!!! Came the ecu and dash harness. If I swap that out will I still need to wire avcs? Or will that enable it?
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:32 PM   #4209
Torquey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHruska View Post
So with my engine that came today!!! Came the ecu and dash harness. If I swap that out will I still need to wire avcs? Or will that enable it?
Won't changing the dash harness be a big hassle? I got one too with my swap, but it was cut. Even if it wasn't I would've used my existing WRX harness and gladly pay for the extra ~$100 for the AVCS one.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:19 PM   #4210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
The JDM ECU and engines don't have that sensor btw so not necessary.
Only problem I see is when I swap the usdm ecu back on for my inspection sticker, that open plug will probably trigger a light been an open loop. I'm going to put the resistor in to avoid any possibilities of a check engine light. My car is now running on the jdm ecu with properly functioning avcs but I have the check engine light on. The car is due for inspection, going to swap the usdm ecu back in and unplug the avcs at the solenoids. I guess I'll have to drive it a little after I turn the light off and hopefully get my inspection sticker. Swap the jdm ecu back on and plug the avcs. Have an apointment with EFI Logics for oct 15, by then I should have my final catback set up in place and anything else I decide to do between here and then. Not going to drive the car much or at all once I get the inspection sticker and cleaned up any bugs that may pop up. I'll have my saabaru to drive while I wait for the pro tune. I have to thank everybody here that offered so much information, specially Vlad and Whitebugeye for the pm's and the patience answering my questions.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:32 PM   #4211
todeswalzer
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A sticker on top of the right timing cover indicates a previous timing belt change correct?
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:38 PM   #4212
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The timing belt comes in a kit with a replacement sticker. The Sti one has the same sticker.
The translation reads something like replace every 100 000 km. The replacement sticker has some space to write replacement mileage.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:02 PM   #4213
todeswalzer
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thats what i thought. pice of my prospective "30-40k" replacement engine has the silver sticker on the right timing cover. alt/ac belts look brand new so im thinking it has ~60-65k miles on it. no bueno.

blah.

i just want my car to run again. its been down 2+ months now.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:58 PM   #4214
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I'm sure my engine is also 60-65,000 miles used, the seller never was able to give me a conclusive mileage. I didn't install a new timing belt nor plugs or anything, I want to test this engine before doing all that stuff. I'll do the timing belt and plugs before running it on the dyno.

Last edited by D-Rodman; 09-21-2012 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:09 AM   #4215
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My seller gave me two different mileages. First thing I did when I got it was a leak down test. It was perfect. I'll be doing my timing and valve covers because of the unknown mileage.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:58 AM   #4216
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Should I be putting in a bigger than stock fuel pump for the v8? Just stock v8 swap.
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:57 AM   #4217
iNfEk
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Well if you had your stock 205 engine and did a turbo upgrade then you'd do the pump. I did my pump when I did that so when I swapped that wasn't an issue. Yes you'll need the upgraded pump to go with the 565 injectors that come with the STI engine.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:10 AM   #4218
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So the check engine light went off all by itself with the jdm ecu, everything is working 100%. Here is my problem, plugged the usdm ecu, unplugged the avcs at solenoids to get my inspection sticker but bam, four codes show up.
P1094 P1096 P1086 P1088, appear to be related to the avcs/tgv swap, has anybody come up with the same issue and how to resolve it ? thank you.
Doug
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:31 AM   #4219
WhiteBgeye02
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move far far away from inspection cities! its my only plan for the future!
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:32 AM   #4220
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Glad you figured it out Torquey. that tac is a really good idea too. let me know if you have any more questions. glad to answer anything the best i can
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:33 AM   #4221
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Doug, you skipped the step where you get the tactrix cable and look in the rom. Also the USDM ECU Rom needs to be edited for your new engine.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:49 AM   #4222
D-Rodman
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I have a tactrix cable, time to learn how to use it, thanks again Vlad.
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:30 AM   #4223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
My seller gave me two different mileages. First thing I did when I got it was a leak down test. It was perfect. I'll be doing my timing and valve covers because of the unknown mileage.
First thing I did was a full overhaul of the heads and checked the block. Best insurance available.
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:47 AM   #4224
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Now that's the way to do it.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:06 PM   #4225
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Finally got to fully inspect the engine. Broken mount for the alternator shroud (not a big deal) but the intercooler has a hole in it and theyre making me go through fed ex to file a claim. just want my engine in.
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