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Old 09-27-2012, 09:39 AM   #4301
Vlad
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Originally Posted by Impreza WR Rex View Post
considerably!
You spoke to them, when you ordered your turbo, right?
Did you actually talk to Sachiko and they have offices in Cali, right?
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:15 AM   #4302
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Well the coil packs solved my stuttering problem

I'm tuning for e85 and my boost seems somewhat low. Running a completely stock setup (vf37 ver 8 ej207) with 850 cc injectors and Grimmspeed ebcs

My boost is at 13 psi at 6400 rpm (where I cut off the pull). I'm reaching full boost (19 psi) around 3900 and then it tapers off around 5200 rpm. My boost doesn't seem to increase anymore in the higher rpms by increasing the wastegate. I guess there might be a leak, but I'd think I would have trouble building up to 19 psi if that were the case. Any ideas?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
Boost is going fall off upto...no way around that and you wouldnt want to if you could
So what's happening is perfectly normal?
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:43 AM   #4303
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Originally Posted by Vlad
What I was trying to tell you and white too is that your car will run rich, with the USDM.
While in closed loop this is compensated to a degree. In open loop not really.
Then the MAF, air table was wrong too.
With this combo, the car could have run some high exhaust temperatures, it's almost impossible to predict. This is probably the heat you noticed.

I wanted to go into more details yesterday, but it's upto you to make the right decisions for your car, you have the info now...

I'll add this:
We know that rich running carburetor cars can get fuel into the oil. Well... I have personally experienced in my personal old Mercedes Bosch K Jetronic fuel injected, it dumping fuel into the oil, as I was trying to adjust the mechanical fuel distributor pump.
While this was a more extreme situation, small amounts of fuel could thin the oil.
This was before my current old diesel Mercedes.

Running very rich, cranking rich, etc, can have effects.
High under hood temperature was with the Jdm ecu, no such condition with the usdm ecu. My EFI Logics dyno tune session is scheduled for oct 15, those guys are busy plus we are welcoming a new baby any day now, due date is oct 8. Couldn't risk going up to EFI Logics before the birth, could never make it back on time, lol.
Not driving the car around, I have a saabaru for my dd now, it's normally the other way around. My concern is the long drive to EFI Logics oct 15.
The car will be sitting in my driveway till that day just waiting. In that time I will install a few mods I mentioned above.

Last edited by D-Rodman; 09-27-2012 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:53 PM   #4304
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Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Cool, ordered a set, are you gaping those plugs or are they properly gapped out of the box?
Thank you sir.
Doug
I didn't try to gap mine... supposedly you shouldn't, with the iridiums.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:11 PM   #4305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquey View Post
I didn't try to gap mine... supposedly you shouldn't, with the iridiums.
I didnt gap my iridiums either, but in hindsight, I probably should have at least checked the gaps on them.

I may go out and pull them out since the motor is out of the car and it's so ridiculously easy at this point. One less thing to worry about later right?
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:56 PM   #4306
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Originally Posted by simon021 View Post
I'm curious about this as well? Is the hose just too short or in which way does it not fit?
To the guy that said he got one at autozone, did you just take the old one in with you and have them give you a longer hose the same size?
The Ej205 has both heater outlet/inlet on the drivers side of the block. The 207 one connection is there, and the other is under the throttle body, which means if you try to connect it using the USDM hose, it hits the clutch fork/return spring.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:58 PM   #4307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgrily View Post
So what's happening is perfectly normal?
This:
http://efilogics.com/dyno/graph.php?...rgb1=000000255

is pretty normal for stock v8 turbo boost curve. (dotted line is boost)
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:35 PM   #4308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydub View Post
The Ej205 has both heater outlet/inlet on the drivers side of the block. The 207 one connection is there, and the other is under the throttle body, which means if you try to connect it using the USDM hose, it hits the clutch fork/return spring.
On my V9 both outlet and inlet are on the drivers side.
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:40 PM   #4309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
This:
http://efilogics.com/dyno/graph.php?...rgb1=000000255

is pretty normal for stock v8 turbo boost curve. (dotted line is boost)
Thanks

Looks like i'm a few psi short at 6400 rpm. Gonna try a new air filter tonight to see if it helps. Mine probably has a good 75-80k miles on it.

Since mine is a GC8, could the air flow from where it pulls through the fender be too restricted compared to a GD wrx/sti? Also, I assume that dyno was measured at the crank and not at the wheels?
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:41 PM   #4310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
On my V9 both outlet and inlet are on the drivers side.
Strange. This is a V8 motor so not sure if it's different for some reason? Can other V8 owners chime in.

Is there a JDM v8 fsm floating around somewhere so I could look at diagrams?

Last edited by navydub; 09-27-2012 at 03:34 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot and shouldn't work on the car when I'm tired
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:47 PM   #4311
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The 2 ports on the cover are normal. Can you post pics?
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:07 PM   #4312
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Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
The 2 ports on the cover are normal. Can you post pics?
Sure, give me a few minutes to go out to the garage and snap a few of what I'm talking about
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:22 PM   #4313
simon021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydub View Post
The Ej205 has both heater outlet/inlet on the drivers side of the block. The 207 one connection is there, and the other is under the throttle body, which means if you try to connect it using the USDM hose, it hits the clutch fork/return spring.
So is the fix just a longer hose?
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:29 PM   #4314
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Ok so upon returning to the garage, apparently I was just an idiot yesterday with the 2 ports on the valve cover thing(working on the car after being awake over 24 hours). Got that figured out. Non-issue.

The coolant/heater hose thing remains an issue so here's a picture of what I'm talking about:


photo by dubbinfool, on Flickr

As you can see there is one of the lines to the heater core on the top of the image(drivers side of the engine) in the same place it would be on the EJ205 that came in the car. On the 205 they were right above each other in that same place. On the 207 the other is located under the throttle body( the lower one circled in the picture)
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:35 PM   #4315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
You spoke to them, when you ordered your turbo, right?
Did you actually talk to Sachiko and they have offices in Cali, right?
I've been speaking to George through email. I believe he is based in California.
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Old 09-27-2012, 04:28 PM   #4316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgrily View Post
Thanks

Looks like i'm a few psi short at 6400 rpm. Gonna try a new air filter tonight to see if it helps. Mine probably has a good 75-80k miles on it.

Since mine is a GC8, could the air flow from where it pulls through the fender be too restricted compared to a GD wrx/sti? Also, I assume that dyno was measured at the crank and not at the wheels?
Full exhaust may add some capability at high RPM. Not every car is going to be identical.

I doubt there's going to be much difference based on intake through the fender. Perhaps exhaust restriction or pressure sensor differences, whatever.

EFI uses a mustang dyno, which is at the wheels. 270ish is pretty typical for a vf36/37 with decent bolt ons and a tune with maxed out boost.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:45 PM   #4317
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Changed the air filter and it didn't make much of a difference.

Here's the log I just took (starts at about time = 17000)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...tSzA1Ync#gid=0

Any ideas? Kind of stumped as to why my boost is tapering off so fast. Feel like I could make 13 psi at 6400 without e85 on an ej205....
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:59 PM   #4318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
Full exhaust may add some capability at high RPM. Not every car is going to be identical.

I doubt there's going to be much difference based on intake through the fender. Perhaps exhaust restriction or pressure sensor differences, whatever.

EFI uses a mustang dyno, which is at the wheels. 270ish is pretty typical for a vf36/37 with decent bolt ons and a tune with maxed out boost.
i know its my own decission but after looking at the flow of a ej257 with a vf39 it should be able to hold 18psi at 5500 rpms w/o being over worked. That said i am currently running. 24psi @3000-5000 rpms then tapering down to 17 at 8k rpms. fairly aggressive timing too on 93 octane with a bit of knock in hot weather. fixed it with a bit more aggressive compensation. my iat is also in the throttle body so its real temps so its mostly from a bit a heat soak.

As far as running timing on these i know its been discussed but what you guys run peak torque.(4400rpm ish) and redline say 7k or 8k rpms? It seems like my engine was taking somewere between e85 numbers and 93 numbers from a non jdm engine. more than i would expect it to and continue to make power. now that i am on e85 i did not add much timing. 3-4k across the board and leaned it out to 11.7 gas equiv afr. not sure how much timing is good on these before its just stupid. obv leaving it as is. 330whp and 350wtq on the virtual dyno

Last edited by WhiteBgeye02; 09-27-2012 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:05 AM   #4319
Paul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgrily View Post
Changed the air filter and it didn't make much of a difference.

Here's the log I just took (starts at about time = 17000)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...tSzA1Ync#gid=0

Any ideas? Kind of stumped as to why my boost is tapering off so fast. Feel like I could make 13 psi at 6400 without e85 on an ej205....
better flowing heads is going make the drop more uptop...so you proly could hold boost uptop better on a ej205.

You might be down a couple psi but its not a big deal. Mods, *tune*, altitude, temp, ect all effect it. If you want more boost uptop and more power just put a bigger turbo on.
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:14 AM   #4320
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very true. you have to remember the map sensor is in the throttle body. so anything after that point which is restrictive will make it easier to hit the boost you want. like tgv's restrict flow so the back pressure behind the sensor reads say 18psi easier at a given flow. you do the deletes and at the same air flow rpm engine load etc etc. it now only might flow 17psi
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:58 AM   #4321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02
very true. you have to remember the map sensor is in the throttle body. so anything after that point which is restrictive will make it easier to hit the boost you want. like tgv's restrict flow so the back pressure behind the sensor reads say 18psi easier at a given flow. you do the deletes and at the same air flow rpm engine load etc etc. it now only might flow 17psi
So would this essentially mean the motor is flowing more air at 17 psi as it was previously at 18 psi? I guess you could check this by maf voltage. Or would it mean that the heads are out flowing the turbo? Running the turbo out of breath up top?

Last edited by simon021; 09-28-2012 at 12:16 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:26 PM   #4322
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Ever since version I completed the swap. I noticed a CEL, P0365 camshaft position sensor B circuit (Bank 1). I have a replacement sensor, not new, but I just finished changing the sensor and the CEL is still on -_- . I now have no idea what is causing the CEL. Or did I replace the wrong sensor??

* Where exactly is this sensor located? the sensor I replaced was located passenger side, rear side of head.

- Btw, it does not go away when I get on the throttle.

thanks,
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:32 PM   #4323
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Did you disconnect the battery before swapping?
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:01 PM   #4324
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Originally Posted by simon021 View Post
So would this essentially mean the motor is flowing more air at 17 psi as it was previously at 18 psi? I guess you could check this by maf voltage. Or would it mean that the heads are out flowing the turbo? Running the turbo out of breath up top?
possibly. that would be verified with maf voltage like you mentioned. the heads are not out flowing since they are under boost and air is being forced in. if this was in vacum you could say they are flowing more since they have to draw the air in rather than having it being forced in. that said big port heads and larger cams means more air can and will flow compared to the heads on a ej205.

I also found that the WG actuator is a bit weak on the vf37. a lot of guys upgrade to an Avo one i believe but i just took a spring from my assorted box. wraped one loop around the pin between the actuator arm on the exh side and were the pin slides up through the bottom. and then drilled a small hole in the bracket that holds the WG to the compressor side for the other end of the spring to hold onto. it only adds a few psi but helped spool up a bit and holds boost fine but will open when i need it to as well.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:43 AM   #4325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
This:
http://efilogics.com/dyno/graph.php?...rgb1=000000255

is pretty normal for stock v8 turbo boost curve. (dotted line is boost)
You can try an upgraded wastegate actuator! I hold 18psi to red after peak boost of 24psi!

this actuator works very well. I and a few other of my friends and even my tuner uses them.
they make different pressure actuators too.
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