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Old 10-12-2012, 10:53 AM   #4576
WhiteBgeye02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHruska View Post
really? no need to be a dick in all honesty. at this point, i followed the ds1 wiring for avcs about as closely as possible and im still throwing an avcs code that i cant figure out.
im just trying to make sure i do stuff in a not dumb way. and in all honesty this is the first time ive done more to my car than change struts. i was actually asking about the harness. i had to take that one off the up pipe from the 205 since its the only thing that had a harness that was compatable with car side. i thought it was an egt sensor not an 02 so i just wanted to double check.

and anyone on is P0635 more likely a bad sensor or bad wiring? Where exactly is the solenoid? Im trying to look these things up but no luck so far.



Now im pulling a P0519- which i read somewhere no power steering fluid could throw this, is that true? im just going to do a IACV gasket and cleanin and see how that helps.
sorry dude. it just seems so many ppl dive into a project then spend 10 pages asking simple questions. if your asking about avcs solenoids they are on the top of each head on the front. a few inches tall and a little longer than tall if i remember right. a hard type oil line should be feeding into each one.

why dont you reset the ecu and then repull the codes and see what shows up since some might be memorized and wont go away until the ecu is reset i do believe.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:59 AM   #4577
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So is P0635 more likely a bad sensor or bad wiring? Where exactly is the solenoid? Im trying to look these things up but no luck so far.

Should I let the engine warm up all the way and see if if goes away since cold seems to have been a factor for some?

Now im pulling a P0519- Idle air control circuit performance as well. Only comes on once the engine is warm.
thats just that i need to take apart the IAC and clean it/replace the gasket right?
there is also no power steering fluid in the car which i read can be an issue to throw the code. there is a massive PS leak i cant find.
it was idling about 1500rpm warming up then it instantly dipped to ~850 and so i killed it and read the codes.

well if it warmed up the idle should drop as it warms up so going down to 850 at operating temp is perfectly fine.
i just opened ecuflash and the p0635 code is not even in my list of stuff i can delete in the rom so if its the cam sensor you mentioned somewere that sits right in front of the avcs solenoid on each side. a small 10mm bolt threads into the heads in the horizontal (parallel to the ground) threads in from rear to front. it will take a long time to get it out being the solenoids are in the way. once you get it out then pull the sensor out toward the back of the engine.

iacv requires cleaning once in a while after they get older. a new gasket is needed every time as well. i have come up with a way to use rtv but its kinda custom and i have deleted some things to make it work the way i want.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:20 AM   #4578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
Now im pulling a P0519- Idle air control circuit performance as well. Only comes on once the engine is warm.
thats just that i need to take apart the IAC and clean it/replace the gasket right?
its one of those things that are hit or miss. Cleaning the iacv sometimes kills the bearings and you end up having to buy one from the dealer.
If you are just getting it when the engine is warm, i would start small and unplug and clean the connector with contact cleaner. Contact cleaning often clear up these random CELs. Worth a try before pulling the iacv apart.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:18 PM   #4579
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The Sti type RA, from before the Spec C, from December 2000, GDB rev A has the biggest intake ports, the radius is milder by 0.5 mm and the shoulder by the valve guide is removed or does not exist.

However, these cars even if they may not have had the TGV mechanism, did have the TGV divider walls in the TGV bodies. The deletion was not complete.

Everybody else has the same side intake ports, in JDM, except the GRB Sti Spec C, which has ridiculously bigger ports, by 2 mm, but is sporting TGV dividers.

Last edited by Vlad; 10-12-2012 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:16 PM   #4580
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Whitebgeye02. He transposed the numbers. It's p0365. Not p0635. He just hasn't edited his post yet.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:21 PM   #4581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRsleeper
Whitebgeye02. He transposed the numbers. It's p0365. Not p0635. He just hasn't edited his post yet.
Thanks. Im on my phone and can't edit it. Was going to when I got home for the day.
Going to clean the sensor and look up how to reset the ecu and see how it goes.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:31 AM   #4582
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gtx3071 fitment:


see the cruise control? its in the way. also note the crawford AOS to crank case line and compare it to a stock turbo. that shows ya how much bigger this is than the td04/vf39



ewg in cruise control out




pic doesnt do it justice but the turbo is just a 1/4" off the block

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Old 10-13-2012, 10:07 AM   #4583
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Looking good!
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:56 PM   #4584
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yeah its comin. almost time to full fluids, still gotta weld the dp bung but there isnt much more to do mechanically besides get the dp and the fmic cold pipe on

checking the manual now cant figure out which heater hose on the block is in/out. i assume the bottom hosde coming from the fire wall is for the connection closer to the driver side (1) and the top firewall hose goes to the center connection (2) on the block


Last edited by todeswalzer; 10-13-2012 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:40 PM   #4585
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:50 PM   #4586
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Well that's expensive
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:24 PM   #4587
WhiteBgeye02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todeswalzer View Post
yeah its comin. almost time to full fluids, still gotta weld the dp bung but there isnt much more to do mechanically besides get the dp and the fmic cold pipe on

checking the manual now cant figure out which heater hose on the block is in/out. i assume the bottom hosde coming from the fire wall is for the connection closer to the driver side (1) and the top firewall hose goes to the center connection (2) on the block

i did it wrong the first time. on first start up if you let the engine warm up and get no hot air inside then its backwards. i cant see w/ my tmic in the way so cant help ya. i know a few different diagrams are misleading on which goes were off the engine since it changes between wrx and sti coolant outlet/inlet on engine.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:26 PM   #4588
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what kinda of spark plug uses plasma lol. way too much for anyone in the USA to buy after money conversion and shipping. might as well buy a jdm engine and spend another 1500 on upgrading parts on it and a nice tune.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:29 PM   #4589
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[quote=todeswalzer;38262030]gtx3071 fitment:


see the cruise control? its in the way. also note the crawford AOS to crank case line and compare it to a stock turbo. that shows ya how much bigger this is than the td04/vf39



WHY NOT JUST MOVE THE CRUISE CONTROL MODULE SOMEWERE ELSE. opps caps. its got hardlines w/ the cable on the inside so you can mount it anywere. just dont kink the line so it can move the cable.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:46 PM   #4590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
what kinda of spark plug uses plasma lol. way too much for anyone in the USA to buy after money conversion and shipping. might as well buy a jdm engine and spend another 1500 on upgrading parts on it and a nice tune.
Pretty sure they're referring to the ignition coils not the spark plugs.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:11 PM   #4591
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expensive gamble, the seller went out of the way to pull the flywheel off to showoff the rear seal but didn't pull off the cracked passenger timing belt cover.

It could have smashed one of the cam gears, jumped the timing belt and trash every valve.
Sorry, you're f'd mate!
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:00 PM   #4592
WhiteBgeye02
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Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
expensive gamble, the seller went out of the way to pull the flywheel off to showoff the rear seal but didn't pull off the cracked passenger timing belt cover.

It could have smashed one of the cam gears, jumped the timing belt and trash every valve.
Sorry, you're f'd mate!
true story. plus you can pull the flywheel to show the seal and can clean any oil leaks up with some brake parts cleaner and rag in 5 minutes.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:11 PM   #4593
todeswalzer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02

i did it wrong the first time. on first start up if you let the engine warm up and get no hot air inside then its backwards. i cant see w/ my tmic in the way so cant help ya. i know a few different diagrams are misleading on which goes were off the engine since it changes between wrx and sti coolant outlet/inlet on engine.
Yeah well see. It makes sense the way I did it but who knows


Also with the cruise control....I'm not really worried about it right now. Maybe one day later I'll find somewhere to relocate it. I'd have to splice the harness to move it further away from the Ewg and then I just have a spliced harness next to the billion degree Ewg....not something I care about to mess with just now.


Hopefully shell be fired up by next weekend...I sent the stock ROM to Clark yesterday. Still gotta get the bung welded on the dp and come up with some protection for my new CAI. That's all that's left to do besides bolting the exhaust back together and filling fluids back up


So close I can taste it
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:33 PM   #4594
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$6800 plus shipping... good deal.

I also see its been thoroughly doused in WD-40 for that new engine wanna-be shine...
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:38 PM   #4595
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I just learned today that the pistons the shop put in my 207 are in fact 9:1 CR instead of the factory 8:1

That explains alot.


What are the implications ?
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:45 PM   #4596
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I still can't figure out why mine isn't starting, been almost 4 weeks now. Just won't crank.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:45 PM   #4597
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if u want power and reliability they make a full blown race engine with a rev limit of 9500 to 10k for under 10k. Its a ej271 special built bored and stroked block from the ej257 with the heads right u can keep the stock boost level and see double the power and 100 times the dependability
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:46 PM   #4598
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as for me i like the ej207 for stock blocks stregnth wise and power wise.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:47 PM   #4599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
I just learned today that the pistons the shop put in my 207 are in fact 9:1 CR instead of the factory 8:1

That explains alot.


What are the implications ?
More knock prone. You'll just have to run lower boost than if you had a 8:1 c/r.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:48 PM   #4600
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god dammit.

I'm at 21 psi ( 18g ) across the board, knock free. It does spool nicely ( 3200 rpm's )

Torque is nice though.
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