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Old 10-15-2012, 04:12 PM   #4601
todeswalzer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25rsti
I still can't figure out why mine isn't starting, been almost 4 weeks now. Just won't crank.
That sucks man. Did you get a properly working starter yet?
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:20 PM   #4602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjdonovan View Post
if u want power and reliability they make a full blown race engine with a rev limit of 9500 to 10k for under 10k. Its a ej271 special built bored and stroked block from the ej257 with the heads right u can keep the stock boost level and see double the power and 100 times the dependability
What are you talking about? There is no EJ271. Stop posting non-sense.

EDIT: Are you talking a 2.71L block? That's not an EJ271 and you exaggerate it's benefits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
I just learned today that the pistons the shop put in my 207 are in fact 9:1 CR instead of the factory 8:1

That explains alot.


What are the implications ?
High compression motors can be super fun, but they require very high quality/octane fuel with high boost. My last motor was a 2.5L at around 8.9:1 or 9.0:1. It was a beast on e85, but ultimately it was a pretty sloppy motor due to a questionable builder. The off-boost power/torque will be fun and you'll see very nice spool characteristics. Just watch that knock.

Also, the 9.0:1 pistons they put in... is that what the manufacturer claims? Because many manufacturers like JE base their values on a theoretical head gasket thickness (like 1mm or something) which is usually considerably thicker than OEM. If they assume this, then their pistons when used with OEM thickness gaskets will result in even higher CR. Just some food for thought.

Last edited by kpluiten; 10-15-2012 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:36 PM   #4603
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9-1 CR in a 207 would be tons of fun, just make sure your tuner knows what they are doing. since you have changed the position of the piston relative to the head you may have to limit avcs to prevent valves hitting your pistons and it will require a significant reduction in timing since baseline cylinder pressures are higher.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:47 PM   #4604
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yeah well tuner had no clue, as I had no idea either.

It's on the carberry rom, and was dyno tuned. The top end was spot on.

Everything else was ****.


So, I sought help and a friendly ( and very advanced I might add ) member @ romraider walked me through tuning it spot on.


I'Ve put around 50 flashes, and probably 50/60 hours into the tune. It's pretty spot on now, and everywhere for that matter ( thanks AndyA )


It takes ALOT of low end timing, and just LOVES IT. It spools the 18g in no time. we have 94 oct. here so it's all it gets. And up top, actually, less timing makes more HP in my case... ( we tried on the dyno )
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:58 PM   #4605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todeswalzer View Post
That sucks man. Did you get a properly working starter yet?
I had my original v7 starter, bought a usdm sti starter here on the boards then bought a reman from advanced auto. None made a difference. I'm going ballistic.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:54 AM   #4606
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well then tis not the starter but some sort of other issue? i didnt see the original post but whats the problem 25rsti?

congrats on the fun tune Wrick!
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:58 AM   #4607
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Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
well then tis not the starter but some sort of other issue? i didnt see the original post but whats the problem 25rsti?

congrats on the fun tune Wrick!
I don't deserve the merit, Andya does.

I'm happy to say I did ( mostly ) my own tune and it's amazing.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:09 PM   #4608
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you learn a lot about the car that way though. its one thing to have someone to tell you what to do but gong and doing it yourself is another task. so many finiky things with romraider sometimes makes it a pita to work with.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:13 PM   #4609
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I've had quite some fun learning the ecuedit tool ( I have no choice, cannot flash with ecuflash )

The map tracing/log tracing tool is fabulous and helps ALOT to fine tune the fueling and timing. Love it !
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:35 PM   #4610
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Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
I had my original v7 starter, bought a usdm sti starter here on the boards then bought a reman from advanced auto. None made a difference. I'm going ballistic.
Maybe I missed it, but does it click or something? Or does it just not do anything?

Two past experiences come to mind:

1) we installed a motor and one of the guys I was working with put the ground cable on the back of the starter and forgot the positive cable all together. That was a silly mistake, but we were stumped for a few minutes.

2) I installed a motor in a kids car and when it came time to fire it I told him to do so while I stood over the motor watching. Nothing. He tried and tried. We swapped the ECU back and tried a bunch of other stuff. Then I found it... he wasn't stepping on the clutch. He just plain forgot to. :facepalm: Car started right up immediately.

I know these are dumb, but sometimes it's the dumb ones that stump us the most, especially if you're very technical.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:58 PM   #4611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Maybe I missed it, but does it click or something? Or does it just not do anything?

Two past experiences come to mind:

1) we installed a motor and one of the guys I was working with put the ground cable on the back of the starter and forgot the positive cable all together. That was a silly mistake, but we were stumped for a few minutes.

2) I installed a motor in a kids car and when it came time to fire it I told him to do so while I stood over the motor watching. Nothing. He tried and tried. We swapped the ECU back and tried a bunch of other stuff. Then I found it... he wasn't stepping on the clutch. He just plain forgot to. :facepalm: Car started right up immediately.

I know these are dumb, but sometimes it's the dumb ones that stump us the most, especially if you're very technical.
thats interesting

Can you log in romraider if your clutch switch is working ???
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:01 PM   #4612
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You could just put a multimeter on it and compare it with the FSM I think.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:54 PM   #4613
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yeah you can log clutch switch. like 99% sure you can.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:55 PM   #4614
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how much better is ecuedit compared to ecuflash? i have a bunch of excel stuff i use to aid and just do some visual 3d mapping on excel if ecuflash doesnt offer one for what i want.
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:00 PM   #4615
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I just got home from work and tried jumper cables from my truck battery to the battery in my car. Didn't do anything different.

My problem is: I get in the car, turn the key to ACC, hear the fuel pump prime. Try and crank the car...all that happens is: I hear a click (from a relay?) from behind or around the cluster area and the clock and radio dim off.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:48 PM   #4616
WhiteBgeye02
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the click should be a starter relay. either the wire going to the starter for power is bad or the ground wire to the starter is bad to the body/engine. what happens when you take the starter off the car w/ the power going to it and a wire grounding it somehow? it should spin freely when you turn it over. that or try this. with the starter on the car have a friend sit inside and put the positive side of a volt meter on the red wire on teh starter and the black wire on the engine or ground wire ontop of the starter.when you turn it over you should see like 12 volts or so. if all your hearing is a click then the relay is good 99% of the time and something post relay between starter and relay is bad. seeing if voltage is getting there is a good start to see if the wire is bad or something. you obv bought a few starters and its unlikely all of them were bad.

also i noticed when my battery was low it would click then click a ton of times( like 5 times/second or so) if i held the key over but obv not turn the engine over.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:05 PM   #4617
lukeskywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
yeah you can log clutch switch. like 99% sure you can.
Nope, it does not go into the ECU. Otherwise flat foot shifting would not need an external input for the 16bit ecu
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:30 PM   #4618
WhiteBgeye02
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very true,, i guess i figured since you were grounding one side and then feeding the other side into the ecu it could be logged. but then again its going into the cruise control pin i beleive so totally different. my bad!
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:49 PM   #4619
25rsti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
the click should be a starter relay. either the wire going to the starter for power is bad or the ground wire to the starter is bad to the body/engine. what happens when you take the starter off the car w/ the power going to it and a wire grounding it somehow? it should spin freely when you turn it over. that or try this. with the starter on the car have a friend sit inside and put the positive side of a volt meter on the red wire on teh starter and the black wire on the engine or ground wire ontop of the starter.when you turn it over you should see like 12 volts or so. if all your hearing is a click then the relay is good 99% of the time and something post relay between starter and relay is bad. seeing if voltage is getting there is a good start to see if the wire is bad or something. you obv bought a few starters and its unlikely all of them were bad.

also i noticed when my battery was low it would click then click a ton of times( like 5 times/second or so) if i held the key over but obv not turn the engine over.
What else post relay could be going wrong? I bypassed the starter a few times. It sounded like it was just spinning and the bendix wasn't plunging foward.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:17 PM   #4620
todeswalzer
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How's the flywheel? Maybe its not the starter
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:23 PM   #4621
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But, if it was the flywheel wouldn't something at least happen prior to the flywheel? Though, the flywheel is good.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:28 PM   #4622
todeswalzer
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Well if there was no flywheel it wouldn't start right? =p
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:48 PM   #4623
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haha, correct. There is a flywheel in there, with a clutch too :-). It just doesn't start :-(
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:58 PM   #4624
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What else post relay could be going wrong? I bypassed the starter a few times. It sounded like it was just spinning and the bendix wasn't plunging foward.
if you bypassed the wires with direct power to the starter and nothing happened then idk wtf is wrong. i mean literally ran a thick wire from the positive on the battery to the starter and it should start to spin. if it spins and then wont go forward then its the bendix being a pos. but still you need to hunt down if its before the starter and after the relay then tis the wire inbetween. check for good connections. the wire connects to the relay im pretty sure by a nut kinda like on the back of the starter. its really a basic function. you turn the key. the key sends a small voltage to the relay which creates a magnetic field in the coil inside and moves a metal contact into another. this is the loud click when they hit. then these two contacts let electrons from from the battery thru the relay contacts thru the wire to the starter. starter spins and bendix moves toward flywheel. gear contacts teeth on flywheel and turns engine over. if any of those parts has a missing link or loose connection it wont work period! beyond that your car has some bad black magic in it or something.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:00 PM   #4625
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Got it all fired up and runs great but I cant get the avcs to work. I copied over the USDM gear determinations and it's detecting the proper gear with 1-5 and 6 in neutral. The "Neutral position switch" shows 1 in neutral and 0 in gear. I have it wired up per IA instructions.

I'm assuming I should see advance on the 2 intake advance parameters on romraider logger if it's working properly? I see like 2-3 randomly on one side and the other is always 0. I'm hoping I didnt miswire something. I was very careful to triple check each one before insertion.

The center plug was much harder to insert the first few times of plugging it in, but now it's no different than any of the other ecu plugs.

Any ideas?
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