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Old 11-20-2012, 12:37 AM   #4901
ImNOrobo
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Oh, It's a JDM STI?
Pretty close.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
From what a couple tuners told me there is no Access Port for the EJ207......what makes you say there is one that will work?

Research did,

Quote:
Hi there. We do not currently support JDM ECUs (except through the Prova brand sold only in Japan and only later JDM ECUs). The AccessPORT will not work with your particular JDM ECU. We do not have any immediate plans to support it, but it is not impossible that we may do so down the road (no guarantee though).
Bill @ Cobb
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1479483

Like I said good luck finding one.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:52 AM   #4902
Vlad
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Originally Posted by Jubert69 View Post
Ok cool.

The one I will be getting, the ECU can only be connected by ECUtek for some reason.

Maybe I just need to buy another JDM ECU?
If you have no other way, you can be tuned with Ecutek.
Your ECU already has a license on it. You will need to get an Ecutek delta dash cable, it comes in a kit. Make sure to get the drive by cable version, 16bit. On the forums, people are trying to unload them, they're cheap.
It works on JDM, no problem.
The Delta dash then comes for free, via download from Ecutek and it's a very nice logging software (I have it and use it) and the Road Dyno is also a nice free software, that is quite accurate, I'll add.
Then they have a software (also for free) that allows you to receive tunes via email and install them.
What you would need is a tuner that still does Ecutek.

If noone on the thread wants to help you, I can put you in contact with a very skilled guy in NY.

There is a plan B as well.

You go to the Ecuedit site and ask a few questions on their forum. Depending upon the answers, you buy that tuning software, for a price cheaper than an accessport.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:59 AM   #4903
SlowTrackImpreza
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Originally Posted by Jubert69 View Post
Ok cool.

The one I will be getting, the ECU can only be connected by ECUtek for some reason.

Maybe I just need to buy another JDM ECU?
If you do indeed have a version 6 ecu, im guessing this due to ECUtek, that is mainly used on the af040 and af041 ecus. I went full standalone on my car using AEM EMS4, so I have an AF040 ecu sitting on my shelf in the house, un-flashed.


btw...aem ems4...AWESOME!!!!!!!!! sooooooooooo easy to tune.

Last edited by SlowTrackImpreza; 11-20-2012 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:15 AM   #4904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychoreo

That's what I'm hoping. I'm in a tough spot but I think I'll be alright. Jdmracingmotors is being nice and I think I'm getting a decent deal.

Although, the great question.

V7, V8, or V9?

(starts re-reading the thread)
Read through a bunch of the thread. Here's the basic plan:

Get more money

Buy V8 engine "kit" from JdmRacingMotors

Pull old motor

Swap over timing belt (just replaced it a few months ago)

Install new clutch

Install ej207

Install new radiator and oil cooler

Add new fluids

Drive to tuner
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:22 AM   #4905
Vlad
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Request insistently the model number of the ECU that will be supplied with your engine.
Say that you need an actual photo of the actual ECU that you will receive.
Then go to my EJ207 info thread and qualify the ECU as a V8 ecu.
Then you're on the right track.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:22 AM   #4906
stlnation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychoreo View Post
Read through a bunch of the thread. Here's the basic plan:

Get more money

Buy V8 engine "kit" from JdmRacingMotors

Pull old motor

Swap over timing belt (just replaced it a few months ago)

Install new clutch

Install ej207

Install new radiator and oil cooler

Add new fluids

Drive to tuner

why do you recommend Install new radiator and oil cooler
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:32 AM   #4907
stlnation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Request insistently the model number of the ECU that will be supplied with your engine.
Say that you need an actual photo of the actual ECU that you will receive.
Then go to my EJ207 info thread and qualify the ECU as a V8 ecu.
Then you're on the right track.

what info in your "ej207 info thread" are you referring to when you say "qualify it as a v8 ecu"'''
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:37 AM   #4908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
Request insistently the model number of the ECU that will be supplied with your engine.
Say that you need an actual photo of the actual ECU that you will receive.
Then go to my EJ207 info thread and qualify the ECU as a V8 ecu.
Then you're on the right track.
Will do. Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation

why do you recommend Install new radiator
Because mine's old.

Quote:
and oil cooler
Because spun bearing.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:43 AM   #4909
Vlad
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I've added a link to the Sponaugle table that refers to the ECU.
While the thread is mine, the tables are his.

He really put together some nice tables for us, but this work has been done couple years ago and I plan to put together an updated table with even newer info, (including V10) and maybe change the parts listed to common stuff like water pump and spark plugs.

But yes, the info can be found in the second table.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:58 AM   #4910
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Originally Posted by Psychoreo View Post
Will do. Thanks.




Because mine's old.



Because spun bearing.
wont the jdm motor have a oil cooler installed?
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:05 AM   #4911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation

wont the jdm motor have a oil cooler installed?
Maybe? I don't remember where it's mounted and/or if it's going to be included so I'm assuming/budgeting for having to replace it.

Edit: but lets not dumb up the thread with my babble. If I need to, it'll get replaced. If not, then I saved some money.

Last edited by Psychoreo; 11-20-2012 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:05 AM   #4912
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maybe is is talking an external oil cooler. yeah all the engines have them since most come with the same oil filter on them and oil in the pan even.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:02 AM   #4913
lukeskywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
maybe is is talking an external oil cooler. yeah all the engines have them since most come with the same oil filter on them and oil in the pan even.
Spec-C's have external air cooled oil coolers

Regular STI's have the standard oil-water oil coolers found on the USDM cars
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:49 PM   #4914
Psychoreo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Request insistently the model number of the ECU that will be supplied with your engine.
Say that you need an actual photo of the actual ECU that you will receive.
Then go to my EJ207 info thread and qualify the ECU as a V8 ecu.
Then you're on the right track.
They sent me some pictures of the engine and intercooler. Damn that's a pretty motor. No pics of the ECU but they said the code will be 22611AH581. Should be good to go.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:06 PM   #4915
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Sounds good...
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:28 PM   #4916
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I have installed a v8 ej207 into my 02 wrx. Before this, my wrx was completely stock. I need to swap to the USDM ecu to pass emissions.

I now have a 3" catless exhaust. I also installed 750cc injectors.

What should I do for a "safe" tune to drive to the emission place? I am going to get the car tune properly, but I have to get insurance first, plus I want to drive around a bit to see if my avcs is working properly.

Should I put a "stage 2" map into the usdm ecu? I am going to ***** foot around, but don't want to cause any damage. Maybe the stock map is ok as the o2 sensor should fix the lean conditions? So far I have started the ej207 on the jdm ecu with the injector scaling changed to 750. It ran, didn't have any check engine light, but I ran it for 30 seconds or less.
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Old 11-21-2012, 03:26 AM   #4917
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Seems clear that you are going to need calibration on both the usdm and jdm ecu's.
As soon as you plug your usdm ecu on its going throw at least 4 tgv related codes. You have to clear them and disable the monitoring functions so the codes can't come back on. You will need a tactrix cable and get familiar with ecu flash, open source tuning. Your tuner can take care of it if you don't have a tactrx cable. I know it from my own experience, you can read about it probably 20 pages back on this thread. I don't thing flashing stage 2 is going to help you, that isn't a tune for your current setup. You'll want to unplug avcs when you go back to running the engine on the usdm ecu, disconnect the plugs at the solenoids. As to not knowing if avcs is working, you need to run your engine more than just 30 seconds on the Jdm ecu, it should throw a code if there is a problem. Finally, your post like many of mine will be perceived by some here as bullsh** thread cluttering, put your flame suit on.
What state are you getting your car inspected ?

Last edited by D-Rodman; 11-21-2012 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:31 AM   #4918
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
You'll want to unplug avcs when you go back to running the engine on the usdm ecu, disconnect the plugs at the solenoids.
there's no point of unplugging the avcs solenoids when just planning to go to inspection. On the usdm (wrx) ecu, there are no avcs drivers.
As you pointed out, the tgv codes have to be cleared and deleted.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:15 PM   #4919
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So I went downpipe shopping today and banged my head on my desk for a while like I'm sure many of you already have. There don't seem to be any inexpensive catless DP options for running a TS turbo with a USDM length catback which makes sense. I wasn't looking for fleabay special or anything, I was just hoping for something in the price range or a nice catless UDSM DP.

I don't want to weld or do anything custom, I just want to buy something that will bolt right up. This seems to be about best option out there for the price. Do any of you guys have experience with this DP:

http://www.maperformance.com/tomioka...2002-2007.html

I want to know if it is indeed a full 3" and if there are any issues with it. My current catback is a Borla Hush which I plan on keeping at least for a while.

Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:28 PM   #4920
blindjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Seems clear that you are going to need calibration on both the usdm and jdm ecu's.
As soon as you plug your usdm ecu on its going throw at least 4 tgv related codes. You have to clear them and disable the monitoring functions so the codes can't come back on. You will need a tactrix cable and get familiar with ecu flash, open source tuning. Your tuner can take care of it if you don't have a tactrx cable. I know it from my own experience, you can read about it probably 20 pages back on this thread. I don't thing flashing stage 2 is going to help you, that isn't a tune for your current setup. You'll want to unplug avcs when you go back to running the engine on the usdm ecu, disconnect the plugs at the solenoids. As to not knowing if avcs is working, you need to run your engine more than just 30 seconds on the Jdm ecu, it should throw a code if there is a problem. Finally, your post like many of mine will be perceived by some here as bullsh** thread cluttering, put your flame suit on.
What state are you getting your car inspected ?

I have the tactrix, have flashed the jdm ecu for my new injectors, etc.

I just need to know if the low ends of the maps are going to be safe enough for me to drive around at low/medium throttle inputs without causing a problem, or should I put in the "stage 2" map for no cats.

I am getting inspected in BC, Canada. The aircare here is visual (have a heat shield over the exhaust that looks like a cat) and an odb2 scan (will set the readiness indicators).
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:39 PM   #4921
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I also run a Borla hush and I'm running a jdm length down pipe. I just had a muffler shop make me a 6 1/2" extension to fit at the borla adapter on one end and the intermediate at the other end and welded it to the Borla flange adapter, an easy to replace part later if need to return back to usdm length use.
I don't think the Tomioka is a 3" straight thru but it is a flat flange that will mate to your Borla 3" flange. The hush sounds awesome with the equal length header and a catless down pipe, sounds like an angry pack of bees.

blindjoe, you need a wideband bud.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:40 PM   #4922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy
So I went downpipe shopping today and banged my head on my desk for a while like I'm sure many of you already have. There don't seem to be any inexpensive catless DP options for running a TS turbo with a USDM length catback which makes sense. I wasn't looking for fleabay special or anything, I was just hoping for something in the price range or a nice catless UDSM DP.

I don't want to weld or do anything custom, I just want to buy something that will bolt right up. This seems to be about best option out there for the price. Do any of you guys have experience with this DP:

http://www.maperformance.com/tomioka...2002-2007.html

I want to know if it is indeed a full 3" and if there are any issues with it. My current catback is a Borla Hush which I plan on keeping at least for a while.

Thanks.
I have that down pipe and it is like 2.80 inch but is usdm length.

There is a group buy for ts downpipes in the GB forum. Forget who though.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:51 PM   #4923
WRXt4cy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
I also run a Borla hush and I'm running a jdm length down pipe. I just had a muffler shop make me a 6 1/2" extension to fit at the borla adapter on one end and the intermediate at the other end and welded it to the Borla flange adapter, an easy to replace part later if need to return back to usdm length use.
I don't think the Tomioka is a 3" straight thru but it is a flat flange that will mate to your Borla 3" flange. The hush sounds awesome with the equal length header and a catless down pipe, sounds like an angry pack of bees.

blindjoe, you need a wideband bud.
Yeah, I've seen that option as well. Which JDM DP did you go with?

Yeah, the Hush does sound nasty. The sound this engine makes from about 5500 when AVCS tapers off to redline is just incredible. The reaction from people that are used to how most turbo Subarus sound is great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Computersare8ad View Post
I have that down pipe and it is like 2.80 inch but is usdm length.

There is a group buy for ts downpipes in the GB forum. Forget who though.
2.8 isn't that bad I suppose. I'm more interested in bolt on fitment being good so thanks for the input.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:59 PM   #4924
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blindjoe View Post
I have the tactrix, have flashed the jdm ecu for my new injectors, etc.

I just need to know if the low ends of the maps are going to be safe enough for me to drive around at low/medium throttle inputs without causing a problem, or should I put in the "stage 2" map for no cats.

I am getting inspected in BC, Canada. The aircare here is visual (have a heat shield over the exhaust that looks like a cat) and an odb2 scan (will set the readiness indicators).
if all they are doing is checking for readiness, the low ends of the maps should be safe enough. At low/medium throttle you will be in closed loop.

Are you planning to try running through inspection with the jdm ecu?

In the US, I have passed inspection with the jdm ecu before, but some state inspection computers have gotten more restrictive and will not communicate.
You might get lucky with the jdm ecu in Canada. Let us know which ecu you end up using.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:04 PM   #4925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
So I went downpipe shopping today and banged my head on my desk for a while like I'm sure many of you already have. There don't seem to be any inexpensive catless DP options for running a TS turbo with a USDM length catback which makes sense. I wasn't looking for fleabay special or anything, I was just hoping for something in the price range or a nice catless UDSM DP.

I don't want to weld or do anything custom, I just want to buy something that will bolt right up. This seems to be about best option out there for the price. Do any of you guys have experience with this DP:

http://www.maperformance.com/tomioka...2002-2007.html

I want to know if it is indeed a full 3" and if there are any issues with it. My current catback is a Borla Hush which I plan on keeping at least for a while.

Thanks.
Why not just order the Kinugawa bell mouth and modify your old down pipe. It's like $120 for the bell mouth and $40 to have someone weld it. Job done. Any decent exhaust shop can do the work needed in an hour. It's not heavy fab or anything. Simply chop, install/fit, tack into place, remove, finish the welding, reinstall.

I know you said with no welding, but this really isn't much trouble. This is minor.

Last edited by kpluiten; 11-21-2012 at 01:12 PM.
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