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Old 11-29-2012, 10:28 AM   #4976
mattrubywrx
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hey guys,
i recently swapped in a blouch 16g0xt, ported & polished and ceramic coated, as well as ordered a set of DW 1000's, and got my grimmspeed ebcs in a week or two ago.
I currently have el headers, 3" tbe, hyperflow FMIC, am runing avcs and will be getting a protune via open source on my ej207 v7.
im looking to get 350=360 whp on 94 oct. is this unrealistic for the turbo? if not do i have all i need or did i leave any key items out?
Thanks guys
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:16 AM   #4977
WRick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattrubywrx View Post
hey guys,
i recently swapped in a blouch 16g0xt, ported & polished and ceramic coated, as well as ordered a set of DW 1000's, and got my grimmspeed ebcs in a week or two ago.
I currently have el headers, 3" tbe, hyperflow FMIC, am runing avcs and will be getting a protune via open source on my ej207 v7.
im looking to get 350=360 whp on 94 oct. is this unrealistic for the turbo? if not do i have all i need or did i leave any key items out?
Thanks guys
Yeah that wont happen. Your injectors are too big for your application. You'll get 300 whp'ish. Your FMIC is useless and you could've kept the money for a bigger turbo to match those 1000cc's
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:25 AM   #4978
lukeskywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
Yeah that wont happen. Your injectors are too big for your application. You'll get 300 whp'ish. Your FMIC is useless and you could've kept the money for a bigger turbo to match those 1000cc's

I agree on the low 300 WHP, but 1000s are by no means too big especially if he wants e85 down the road. 1000s were big 10 years ago but in the modern world of e85 they are pretty much a standard. 2000s for example are way too big, but buying injectors just big enough for the application is short sighted and will end up costing more $$$ down the road if he goes a little bigger.

There is no issue running 1000s on even a stock motor, they idle fine and work great.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:42 AM   #4979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
Yeah that wont happen. Your injectors are too big for your application. You'll get 300 whp'ish. Your FMIC is useless and you could've kept the money for a bigger turbo to match those 1000cc's
i was runing 306 whp and 292 lbs of torque on the stock vf 30 and stock 560 cc injectos.
since then ive purchased the turbo (didnt want to go to big, its my daily and i value spool and responsivness), the ebcs, and the injectors
as stated above , the injectors i know are not to big, their is no point in buying something that will just cut it, incase i decide to further upgrade.
what im asking is if theirs any other parts i could buy to assist my current set-up in making more power before i go for a tune
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:47 AM   #4980
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Uppipe and external wastegate, phonelic spacers and rotate ur manifold to shorten piping, heat wrap?
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:04 PM   #4981
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yeah we dont see E85 at all here, so, not realy used to seeing big injectors on smaller turbos.

306 whp is alot for a close to stock setup... as a baseline, the dyno you used, what did a stock V7 do ?
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:04 PM   #4982
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Can somebody post the avcs wiring schematic or point me to it, I'm at EFI logics getting my car tuned and having issues with avcs. Just need to verify the wiring is wright, thanks.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:16 PM   #4983
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Just google avcs wiring ds1 google docs. Thats how I find it when I need it.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:44 PM   #4984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
yeah we dont see E85 at all here, so, not realy used to seeing big injectors on smaller turbos.

306 whp is alot for a close to stock setup... as a baseline, the dyno you used, what did a stock V7 do ?
im honestly not sure what a stock v7 does on his dyno.
it was from neetronics , it was a decent tune.
i have an up-pipe, 3 port ebcs, and 255lph fuel pump already as well.. im assuming the stock maf and maf housing is still sufficient for the difference in power?
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:24 PM   #4985
lukeskywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattrubywrx View Post
im honestly not sure what a stock v7 does on his dyno.
it was from neetronics , it was a decent tune.
i have an up-pipe, 3 port ebcs, and 255lph fuel pump already as well.. im assuming the stock maf and maf housing is still sufficient for the difference in power?
Stock MAF housing will take you to ~ 40lb/min turbo (ballpark number), bigger than an 18G. after that you run out of voltage.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:23 PM   #4986
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Originally Posted by K1WRC View Post
Pretty sure the torque split 06+ is 59R/41F
Yeh ,it is, momentary brain fart.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:37 PM   #4987
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Originally Posted by 2JZ View Post
Was the DCCD-a found on USDM cars as well? Is the yaw similar to the ayc in the EVO X? Or am i confusing the two?
All the DCCD equipped Newage cars were DCCD-A, except the 2001 Spec C RA, which has a manual DCCD.

The yaw sensor on a Subaru is a dfferent thing to Yaw control on an EVO. With the EVO Active Yaw control is achieved by using a hydraulicly controlled rear diff unit, this moves the torque to the left or right rear wheel to alter the cars attitude.

With an Impreza all the active control is done via the centre diff, with the early DCCD-A having only a G sensor to measure vehicle movement, the MY05 onwards also has an aditional Yaw sensor which helps improve the input information to the DCCD controller. All the Yaw sensor equipped DCCD-A units have steering position sensors. It was introduced on the widetrack Blobeye.

The MY06 onwards DCCD unit still uses the same basic design as the early units, having friction plates with variable clamp load via the electromagnet control, with sun and planet gears. It has a tighter preload on the plates which gives the more centrally biased torque split.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:47 PM   #4988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Can somebody post the avcs wiring schematic or point me to it, I'm at EFI logics getting my car tuned and having issues with avcs. Just need to verify the wiring is wright, thanks.
Here you go:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4sF...WE4/edit?hl=en

I'm trying to diagnose my AVCS wiring too. Can someone verify that when viewing the schematic, if the diagram is viewing the plug from the wire side (where the wires go into the plug) or from the plug side (where the plug goes into the other plug)? Currently, at low rpm ~2300-2500, going 40-45mph, my vacuum reading is around -10 hg, but osscilates up and down slightly. You can feel the car almost tugging, surging. I am not getting any CEL for AVCS. I want to double check my wiring before I move to the mechanical side of the AVCS (solenoid, cam gear etc.)

-Jeff
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:56 PM   #4989
efiniluvr
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Quote:
Can someone verify that when viewing the schematic, if the diagram is viewing the plug from the wire side (where the wires go into the plug) or from the plug side (where the plug goes into the other plug)?

-Jeff
Ahhh, search and you should find, young Jedi: How To Read Wiring Diagram
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:33 PM   #4990
D-Rodman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efiniluvr

Here you go:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4sF...WE4/edit?hl=en

I'm trying to diagnose my AVCS wiring too. Can someone verify that when viewing the schematic, if the diagram is viewing the plug from the wire side (where the wires go into the plug) or from the plug side (where the plug goes into the other plug)? Currently, at low rpm ~2300-2500, going 40-45mph, my vacuum reading is around -10 hg, but osscilates up and down slightly. You can feel the car almost tugging, surging. I am not getting any CEL for AVCS. I want to double check my wiring before I move to the mechanical side of the AVCS (solenoid, cam gear etc.)

-Jeff
Hey thanks, my car surges too, I was told by the guys at EFI logics that something must be wrong with harness install. They said the driver side wasn't working but the passenger side was getting 60 degrees advance, strange.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:41 PM   #4991
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pretty sure avcs does not throw codes but dont know that for sure. make sure your reading the picture from the right side of the plug. i forget if its the front or rear side for the ds1 intructions. its been like a year already since i installed one. pretty sure its the rear side. so if you do the front side or move one pin wrong the system will be off. many on here have proven the ds1 instructions work flawlessly. its jsut a fact of wiring it right
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:12 AM   #4992
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
Both have their advantages, but if I were to choose, I would choose a torsen for almost every application. It's just that much better. LSD's, when in good shape, can lock the wheels much faster. Torsens give phenomenal traction though..
It just occured to me that there most likely are two weight categories for R180

This is why I was reading conflicting info about R180 weight.

This is why they kept the mechanical for the Spec C after '06.

I think that he torsen adds weight in rotating mass, as compared to the mechanical.

Also, the info about the torsen in US in the R180 for '07+ does not seem solid now, factory operations-wise.
It would have made more sense that with the new 6 speed for '06, they also had to have a new matching rear diff designed and delivered by their supplier and this is when they should have switched to the torsen, to save money on their orders from the supplier.

I am thinking about a "backwards" upgrade path. Meaning, do the R180 first, then the 6 speed. This also because some guys think (and it makes sense to me) that the viscous LSD in the R160 is easily worn.

So if the JDM also switched diff ratios like the USDM 06+ 6speed, then a late spec C R180, in a rev F or G, may be compatible with the 5 speed and may even have the small diameter companion flange and (to me) the lighter weight mechanical locker.

Last edited by Vlad; 11-30-2012 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:08 AM   #4993
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I've just re-read Ron's FAQ about the rear diff.

Ron, I hope you don't mind me quoting you here, but the following is what I think happened to the spec C R180 from the factory:

"In addition, there is a new STi pressure ring set for the R-180. This increases the pressure angles of the stock R180 plated LSD from 45 degrees to 60 degrees in order to improve throttle sensitivity, which ultimately allows the LSD to operate quicker and more effectively. The angle that the cam rides on can change the rate at which the differential locks when differential torque is seen, so basically, by increasing the angle, you increase the rate at which the center section initially expands, which will engage the clutches at a faster rate/time than a lesser angle (can be beneficial in gravel to help car rotate with lighter throttle inputs)."

Ok, I'm done with diffs..., back to EJ207.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:27 PM   #4994
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The GRB had a different rear diff spec for the plated version, the stock item is made by GKN Japan and is to the old design with a fixed 45/45 ramp angle.

The optional homologated rear plated diff is made by Cusco, and has selectable ramp angles of 25/25 45/45 65/65

Are you saying there is a 60/60 set available for the original R180 design? I havn't seen that.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:17 PM   #4995
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Wondering if one of you guys can verify which of these o2 sensors is the correct one for my V8 swap - I'm just now going twinscroll after running the vf34 for a year.

I wanted to make sure I'm running the correct O2 sensor, since I'm just running my USDM one right now..

Thanks..

Here's the pics.....I'm guessing it's the one with little to no "extension"? I have no idea where all of these came from.

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Old 11-30-2012, 10:12 PM   #4996
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Left and right look like front O2 sensors, The middle two look like rear O2 sensors with one that looks like it has a broken off tip.

The JDM front O2 sensors have the short wiring harness(far right) and the WRX is the long one on the left. I would just use the WRX one with the long harness since I believe the JDM one has a slightly different connector but it can be made to fit.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:18 PM   #4997
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How much do v7/v8 heads sell for? Assuming working condition?

Found a set for $400.

Last edited by Jubert69; 11-30-2012 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:31 PM   #4998
lukeskywrx
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How much do v7/v8 heads sell for? Assuming working condition?

Found a set for $400.
Complete in good working order generally more than $1000

I would be really suspicious of $400 207 heads
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:50 PM   #4999
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfelstead View Post
The GRB had a different rear diff spec for the plated version, the stock item is made by GKN Japan and is to the old design with a fixed 45/45 ramp angle.

The optional homologated rear plated diff is made by Cusco, and has selectable ramp angles of 25/25 45/45 65/65

Are you saying there is a 60/60 set available for the original R180 design? I havn't seen that.
There is a pressure ring set, yes.
Rallispec has it.
It's a set that takes the stocker from 45 to 60.

I don't know if it's a two way 60/60.

The Cusco can be a 2 way, but also 1.5 way.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:57 PM   #5000
Jubert69
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Originally Posted by lukeskywrx View Post
Complete in good working order generally more than $1000

I would be really suspicious of $400 207 heads
Visiting a country that only has JDM
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