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Old 12-01-2012, 01:25 AM   #5001
kpluiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Wondering if one of you guys can verify which of these o2 sensors is the correct one for my V8 swap - I'm just now going twinscroll after running the vf34 for a year.

I wanted to make sure I'm running the correct O2 sensor, since I'm just running my USDM one right now..

Thanks..

Here's the pics.....I'm guessing it's the one with little to no "extension"? I have no idea where all of these came from.

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The second one from the right is a normal O2 sensor just like the second from the left, but it has one of those spacers/cheater attachments on it that spaces it out of the exhaust stream. It unscrews. Notice the two spots for wrench flats?
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:55 AM   #5002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
There is a pressure ring set, yes.
Rallispec has it.
It's a set that takes the stocker from 45 to 60.

I don't know if it's a two way 60/60.

The Cusco can be a 2 way, but also 1.5 way.
The 60/60 looks interesting, would probably help mine now it has so much torque, thats a 2 way (both ramps are 60 degrees)

The rear cusco is 2 way only as homologated, not sure i would want a 1.5 way in the rear, the front cusco can be set as a 1.5 way or 1 way, with ramp angles of 0/55 (1 way) 20/45 45/60 (1.5 way)
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:04 PM   #5003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubert69 View Post
Visiting a country that only has JDM
Canada?

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Old 12-01-2012, 12:09 PM   #5004
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Anyone have a 06-07 ra-r engine?
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:35 PM   #5005
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Acording to some places, the uprated rear pressure ring is a 45/75, others say it's a 65/65 and rallispec say its a 60/60, so i need to look further into that.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:34 PM   #5006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfelstead
Acording to some places, the uprated rear pressure ring is a 45/75, others say it's a 65/65 and rallispec say its a 60/60, so i need to look further into that.
Let's see what the Subaru parts software says, if anything. I'll look it up later today.
Rally spec is a very respected source, btw.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:39 PM   #5007
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The 45/75 comes from Tommi Makinen, who is an oficial group N parts supplier, i've emailed them for clarification.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:45 PM   #5008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeskywrx View Post

Canada?

NZ
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:42 PM   #5009
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Thanks for the info on the O2 sensors, you are right.
I didn't notice the adapter on the one until I put it up next to the other one, I didn't realize they were identical.

I'm at the welders now having my downpipe welded! Good times! I'll be twinscroll in about an hour, I'll need a tuner after that, can't wait!
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:29 PM   #5010
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just swapped my avcs solenoids. got 30* for a second on the right, then straight 0's. with 50-60* deg on the left...
so anyone have an extra working avcs solenoid?
Peter
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:40 PM   #5011
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Too bad we are on opposite coast, we are having identical problem.
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:48 AM   #5012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHruska
so anyone have an extra working avcs solenoid?
Peter
Time to troll the classfied or pony up the $150 for a new one. Sorry to hear that, I think I may have solved my AVCS. After double checking my wiring, I accidentally switched one of the wires that was added to the ECU plug. Doubled checked the DS1 instructions, No more vacuum/boost oscillation thus far. I'll have to ask the tuner if he can datalog to confirm. My butt dyno senses much smoother powerband.

Jeff
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:29 PM   #5013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efiniluvr View Post
Time to troll the classfied or pony up the $150 for a new one. Sorry to hear that, I think I may have solved my AVCS. After double checking my wiring, I accidentally switched one of the wires that was added to the ECU plug. Doubled checked the DS1 instructions, No more vacuum/boost oscillation thus far. I'll have to ask the tuner if he can datalog to confirm. My butt dyno senses much smoother powerband.

Jeff
congrats on that then. starting to really give me a headache. im thinking since the issue switched sides when i swapped the solenoids, it could just be a bad solenoid, even though its adding both values to one side.
im gonna start with it come daylight tomorrow.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:54 AM   #5014
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VLAD or others with the external engine oil coolers from the Spec-C motor: How did you prime your system on first start up?

My concern has to do with the system being full of air, but the thermostat being closed during priming of the engine. Then, when the engine is warm/hot, the thermostat will open and a large volume of air will be pushed through the system. Which is bad news bears for my motor.

Perhaps I'm not fully understanding how this system works however. Is there a factory procedure for this? I was going to try to pre-fill the cooler itself, but the lines running to it will be tricky, if not impossible to fill.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:05 PM   #5015
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The thermostat does not open ON/OFF

it gradually slides open. Also, a little hole makes sure a little oil always passes in the cooler.

The air will not return to the oil pump, so no chance of running out of pressure.

let it idle until the temps rise, put your hand on the cooler, you will feel the hot oil on the fins.

I did not prime mine, as the oil pump was already primed, but I just let it warm up on the lift while making sure oil pressure did not drop.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:11 PM   #5016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
VLAD or others with the external engine oil coolers from the Spec-C motor: How did you prime your system on first start up?

My concern has to do with the system being full of air, but the thermostat being closed during priming of the engine. Then, when the engine is warm/hot, the thermostat will open and a large volume of air will be pushed through the system. Which is bad news bears for my motor.

Perhaps I'm not fully understanding how this system works however. Is there a factory procedure for this? I was going to try to pre-fill the cooler itself, but the lines running to it will be tricky, if not impossible to fill.
The cooler only takes a small portion of the oil so it is not going to run your bearings dry. I just make sure I have extra oil in the pan so when the cooler fills you are still full. I am not sure the thermostat will open fully just idling it however. My setup had a leak but it did not show up daily driving because the oil does not get hot enough to fully open the thermostat. Only when I went out and really beat on the car and heated up the oil did the leak appear.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:53 PM   #5017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
The thermostat does not open ON/OFF

it gradually slides open. Also, a little hole makes sure a little oil always passes in the cooler.

The air will not return to the oil pump, so no chance of running out of pressure.

let it idle until the temps rise, put your hand on the cooler, you will feel the hot oil on the fins.

I did not prime mine, as the oil pump was already primed, but I just let it warm up on the lift while making sure oil pressure did not drop.
This is great information. Thank you. As I suspected, I did not fully understand how the system was designed or functioned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeskywrx View Post
The cooler only takes a small portion of the oil so it is not going to run your bearings dry. I just make sure I have extra oil in the pan so when the cooler fills you are still full. I am not sure the thermostat will open fully just idling it however. My setup had a leak but it did not show up daily driving because the oil does not get hot enough to fully open the thermostat. Only when I went out and really beat on the car and heated up the oil did the leak appear.
I can't wait to chase down the leaks... Hopefully the AN fittings will prevent that? We'll see.

Thanks again guys.
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:27 PM   #5018
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I was running this in bypass. Meaning I had a hose connected to the oil manifold between the two hard lines.
Then, when the day came, after the engine was warmed, the thermostat was open, and had oil in the cooler, I connected the lines and started it up.

There is a moment when the pressure builds up, like at oil change. Honestly I thought that the level of danger for my engine was no different than first start after oil change.
At the time, my concern was with something else: I was watching the rubber couplers like a hawk, was worried that they'd pop.
Then I was getting under the car every 30 minutes to see how they're doing..

With my OEM setup, the lines are roughly 3/8" and I have a total of roughly 5' of them between the inlet and the outlet.

I don't have the factory procedure, because there is no factory manual for the JDM EJ207 (I have the EUDM EJ207, but they differ in couple respects) that I could get my hands on, without paying $500. Then of course, it is in Japanese.
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:47 PM   #5019
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Good detailed pictures of the avcs wiring on this link, click on the photograph for a full size image.

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0311it_sti_conversion/

Last edited by D-Rodman; 12-03-2012 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:25 PM   #5020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfelstead View Post
The 45/75 comes from Tommi Makinen, who is an oficial group N parts supplier, i've emailed them for clarification.
I've had a reply from Tommi Makinen, the website info was wrong, they measured the angles and they are 65/65. So a two way as expected. Seems like that should be a nice upgrade.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:55 PM   #5021
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I've looked up the diff part number.
It's somewhat oddball:

-For Rev F all get the same rear
-For rev G, the RA-R and Spec C Type RA keep this same diff as above.
-For rev G the Sti and Sti A-spec (this is not the auto, that came in GRB) get a diferent diff.

So I would say that to get the 3.54 mechanical rear you'd have to have any rev F, or a rev G RA-R or Spec C Type RA.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:05 PM   #5022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 207STi View Post
Anyone have any idea what this is and why it is capped? Is it a coolant passage?

Attachment 69680
I believe that is because of the TGV delete

Last edited by dski; 03-22-2013 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:54 PM   #5023
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just posting this new development because i now have even more of a headache and any reccomendations would be helpful.
AVCS on left side reading 0, right side was reading in the 50s.
swap solenoids, left side reads, right side doesnt.
check wiring at ecu, dont move any pins, issue moves back to reading 0 on left side.
so now im guessing its a wiring issue not a bad solenoid. dont have a damn clue though and am starting to get reallllly stressed out about it haha. this is the last thing keeping me from finishing my tune.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:26 PM   #5024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I've looked up the diff part number.
It's somewhat oddball:

-For Rev F all get the same rear
-For rev G, the RA-R and Spec C Type RA keep this same diff as above.
-For rev G the Sti and Sti A-spec (this is not the auto, that came in GRB) get a diferent diff.

So I would say that to get the 3.54 mechanical rear you'd have to have any rev F, or a rev G RA-R or Spec C Type RA.
Indeed, post 4971 gives you that basic info. The plain MY07 16" and 17" Spec C also uses the plated (mechanical) rear LSD unit.

Rev F is MY06 (the first hawkeye)
Rev G is MY07

Rev F/G uses a 1.1:1 drop gear, which is why you need the 3.54 rear CWP, the JDM pre this uses a 1:1 dropgear with a 3.9 rear CWP
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:04 PM   #5025
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So I decided to compare the part numbers, which I should have done from the get-go
The Spec C 3.54 is the 38410AA120
The other 3.54 is the 38410AA140
The USDM 06 is the same 38010AA120
The USDM 07 is the same 38410AA140

So for me it's going to be an '06 USDM diff.

Meanwhile I ended up breaking the sock attachment stud on my walbro tonight, as I was installing the spec C style fuel box fuel pump assembly.
What a nightmare to get the whole damn thing back into the tank.
I ended up rigging a bolt to retain the sock flange.
I ended up re-using the fuel filter housing, after removing the filtration media out of it. I got this used. Man was that media horrible looking.
I don't know how it's possible to not have this filter on the maintenance schedule. It took me a long time to clean it out.



I'm going to stick to using the fuel filter that is located OEM in the engine compartment. I was going to eliminate the in-tank filter housing completely, but I had such a hard time locating 30R10 fuel hose (rated for submerged in fuel long time operation to 100 PSI), to replace the stock 2" piece with a 5" piece and account for the eliminated in-tank filter, that I decided it's a better option to keep the empty housing.

Now I gota buy a replacement walbro...

Last edited by Vlad; 12-03-2012 at 10:53 PM.
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